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#1. Re: Front Underpanel - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 13:02:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Front Underpanel >So, anyway, I was thinking of replacing the >underpanel with the one from >JT-Designs, when I'm having the car repaired. >Any overall thoughts on the repairs, besides the JT->Designs underpanel? I just had the same thing happen on the way down to Atlanta on Tuesday of last week, except I hit a tire carcass thrown up by a truck that was right in front of me in heavy traffic. Choice was a) run over the tire b) smack concrete barrier c) attempt to push 18 wheeler out of the way. I chose a) and lost the fog light bracket, both wheel well liners, my brake ducting, and my JTD underpanel, which folded like...like...sheet aluminum and dragged under the car until I could get over two lanes to the exit and cobble together a roadside repair. The underpanel was pretty much destroyed after dragging 1/2 a mile so I pulled it off completely. So now I've got the choice between reinstalling another JTD panel or reverting back to stock. I'd make an insurance claim except I'm sure the repair will be just over my $500 deductible which won't really get me anywhere. Only real problem is that some of the mounting holes in the front spoiler were torn loose when the underpanel folded under so I'm going to have to rivet in something for the replacement parts to hold onto. Didn't somebody post a procedure to bolster the stock parts? I know I saw it but it was quite some time ago. Shane K. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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#2. Re: Strange human behavior - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 16:35:47 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: Strange human behavior There are people like that out there, and the best you can do is hope you only get taken advantage of once in a while. Consider the $15 a relatively inexpensive reminder or the cost of learning about the person. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re.- Timing chain/valve question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 13:41:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re.- Timing chain/valve question > > and the noise was most prominent in the 1800-2K RPM range. > > That is the classic worn primary tensioner syndrome. > The replacement tensioner is ~$75 and takes all of 5 minutes to replace. > See the picture #37 here: http://tinyurl.com/5wnqz Be advised that you'll need a 1 1/4" wrench (I got mine from Sears) to get that sucker off. There is also a little crush washer that sometimes lingers on the block so make sure you get it off. Part number Description 11 31 1 494 438 Primary chain tensioner ('96+) 11 31 1 405 081 Primary chain tensioner ('95) 11 31 1 738 700 Secondary chain tensioner ('95 and '96+) I can't find the part number for the crush washer... =( HTH, Chester =====
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Underpanel - from jason
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Date: 16 Aug 2004 14:10:21 -0700 From: jason <jason@doomba.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Underpanel dropping shit on the freeway: $1000 fine dropping shit that results in property damage: $10000 fine imho its inexcusable to find bricks and ladders and couches and everything else on the freeway. i'm not too happy with the truckers losing retreads every 500ft either... sorry for the rant :)
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#5. strange behavior - from Robert Manger
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 17:14:29 -0400 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: strange behavior The long and the short of it is people $uck. he should have over compensated your friend for him neglecting to pay for 2 years. Keyrist man that is nuts I would like to thank you for reminding me to buy a couple of those to keep them in my parts box of items that fail often. Totally forgot about those things. Rob Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 08:51:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: c What would you do? A long time ago, someone is in need of an exhaust hanger because his is broken. You happen to have a brand new one as a spare and offer it so that everything will be buttoned up right. Two years pass and finally the person gets around to paying for it; however, when the person gives you money, he short changes you and gives you $10. I know for a fact since I order these through my dealer account that the price I paid for them was more than $25....that's not even list price. So you mention right there on the spot when the person offers you the money that it's more like $25 and not $10. The person simply quips, "o...you remembered wrong" and then just leaves it like that. I was just dumbfounded. Now, this was my friend who got short changed and I know he's too nice because I would have shoved the money right back in his face and said, "Give me a new exhaust hanger then." Have you ever in your whole life? Chester still annoyed and it wasn't even my money ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.
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#6. Rear Lower Wishbone - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 17:47:09 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: Rear Lower Wishbone Group, My 97 M3 has its rear on stands right now as I was planning to adjust the parking brake. As I was crawling around underneath to do a general inspection I noticed that the right rear lower wishbone (33 32 1 092 237) appears to have taken an impact on the front side. The plastic shroud is missing and the front wishbone half is pushed rearward near the outer lower ball joint. There is no remarkable asymmetric tire wear and I don't recall running over any objects of significance (like 8 heads in a duffel bag - see other posts today). It looks as if these are of pretty weak construction. Is this the consensus? Or am I the only one to damage this part? Can anyone recommend a stronger / better replacement or is the stock part the way to go here? Thanks Jeremy Conners 97 M3
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#7. Re.- Timing chain/valve question - from Chris Blumenthal
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 15:47:17 -0700 From: "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> Subject: Re.- Timing chain/valve question After replacing the primary tensioner did not eliminate the noise from the chain, the owner of the shop that did the work for me sent out an inquiry about this problem to the IAIBMWSP, of which he is a member. He received several responses indicating that stretched primary timing chains had been found on S52 (not M52) motors in troubleshooting noisy chain problems. I read the emails myself; it was not suggested that this was a common problem, and the respondents emphasized that they had only see stretched chains on "S" motors. I considered the source of this information to be authoritative, so I had the work done. This was a couple of years ago, and although I think I would have asked, I don't recall what result a comparison of the old and new chains yielded. All I can say is that after the chain was replaced, the noise was gone. Chris Blumenthal > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 14:31:57 -0500 > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re.- Timing chain/valve question > > "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> wrote: > > > > We had a stretched timing chain _and_ a noisy VANOS unit in my > > wife's '97 M3/4 @ about 100K miles. The stretched chain was > > presumably due to her lead foot driving style, > > This is the first time EVER that I'm hearing of an M50/52 engine that > required a new timing chain. > What objective indicators of 'stretching' or 'wear' did you > have to make > this diagnosis? > > > and the noise was most prominent in the 1800-2K RPM range. > > That is the classic worn primary tensioner syndrome. > The replacement tensioner is ~$75 and takes all of 5 minutes > to replace. > See the picture #37 here: http://tinyurl.com/5wnqz > > > After replacement of the chain, chain tensioner and VANOS unit, > > all is quite now with this motor (currently at ~120K miles). > > The noises made by the chain and the VANOS unit were easy to > > distinguish. > > > > I suppose the noise you are hearing could be being made by the > > upper timing chain (cam to cam). Don't know what this one sounds > > like when noisy, but this does not seem to be a common problem... > > at least, it is not discussed often in the various > discussion groups. > > Right. > A local experienced BMW wrench uses the RPM when the noise is > loudest to > identify the failing part. 1600-2500 is the primary tensioner. The > secondary tensioner (the one Chris is talking about) murmurs > through the > higher RPMs and is much more of a PITA to replace. > > Eric, > Do yourself a favor and start with the $75 primary tensioner. > You can't go > wrong - if the noise is still there, you would have replaced > the tensioner > as a 'while you are in there' segue of a larger (Vanos or Secondary > tensioner) job. > > HTH, > alex f > >
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Rear Lower Wishbone (LCA) - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:10:18 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Lower Wishbone (LCA) After studying the design of the OE LCA, I'm a little shocked and not at all surprised that it is damaged. I would like to replace the pair with aftermarket parts from a reputable vendor. Well, I've done a little looking around at various vendor sites. What is the group opinion on replacing the LCAs? All the major players seem to be represented in the replacement LCA area. Brand preferences, install stories, adjustment yah's / nay's, longevity, corrosion resistance, bang for buck, etc. are welcome. Thanks in advance, Jeremy Conners 97 M3
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Rear Lower Wishbone (LCA) - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 21:23:33 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Lower Wishbone (LCA) They're supposed to take the impact in the event of an accident. The vendors you see selling the beefier versions are for racing as they tend to bend when driven really hard on r compounds. -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeremy Conners > > After studying the design of the OE LCA, I'm a little shocked > and not at all > surprised that it is damaged. I would like to replace the pair with > aftermarket parts from a reputable vendor. > > Well, I've done a little looking around at various vendor > sites. What is > the group opinion on replacing the LCAs? All the major > players seem to be > represented in the replacement LCA area. Brand preferences, install > stories, adjustment yah's / nay's, longevity, corrosion > resistance, bang for > buck, etc. are welcome. > > Thanks in advance, > Jeremy Conners > 97 M3
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#10. M3 Exhaust Ports - from bs
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 21:52:24 -0400 From: "bs" <m3bs@comcast.net> Subject: M3 Exhaust Ports Anybody got a head (M3 cylinder head, that is) lying around? I'm trying to get some accurate measurements of exhaust port size and shape for development of a new header design. Thanks.
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Underpanel - from Tim Williams
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 22:03:37 -0400 From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Underpanel This is what I did. I used aluminum stock from Lowes or Home Depot. They sell angle and flat stock. You can cut it with a hacksaw, one of those cut off wheels discussed recently, or with great care, on a chop saw. Cut to mate with the now missing holes, and pop rivet it in place. Use a small c-clamp to hold it while drilling for the rivet and riveting. Use a smaller aluminum backing plate on the back side, sandwiching the plastic between the aluminum. Alternatively, use a large washer the size of the rivet. Once the aluminum is attached, you can hold the underpanel in place and redrill the hole for the screws to hold the underpanel / fender liners in place. When I did this, I also reinforced the not yet damaged attachment points on the fender liners and the factory underpanel, as well as repairing the torn away attachment points. Hope this helps. I also remember someone posted a better description, but I don't have the reference. Tim > Didn't somebody post a procedure to bolster the stock > parts? I know I saw it but it was quite some time > ago. > > Shane K. > >
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#12. thinking about adj. rear control arms - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 23:19:09 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: thinking about adj. rear control arms Group, Subject line says it all. Who makes the best? Rogue? Pros / Cons? Looking for comments from users. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02 SM '03