E36M3 #3884

Friday, August 27, 2004 08:33:41

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Passenger rubber door gasket - torn - from Jeremy Conners
#2. Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches - from cteague@cox.net
#3. Re: [E36M3] would you drive with one broken front swaybar - from Jim Bassett
#4. Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches (fwd) - from air2daa@insightbb.com
#5. Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches - from Kent L. Shephard
#6. wheels using hub rings, or spacers - from Tim Ng
#7. Re: selector shaft seal - from KLchmn@aol.com
#8. Re: selector shaft seal - from KResener@aol.com
#9. OT: FS: MuVo2 4GB (no Microdrive inside) - from Andrew Kalman
#10. Prepared class - legal rear suspension mods? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Passenger rubber door gasket  - torn - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 17:37:54 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Passenger rubber door gasket - torn This happened on my 97 M3 a few years ago. It seemed to tear right a mold seam in the seal about 1 inch below the top on the vertical window sealing area. The seal is expensive (bought mine at the $tealer for ~$150 with discounts. The part number for the 2 door assistant side is 51 71 2 138 958 (black) or 51 71 1 977 728 (slate). You will also need new clips for the inside sill cover 51 47 1 840 961 (definitely needed) and 51 71 8 151 484 (depends on how careful you are). I also recommend picking up some BMW Rubber Cleaner / Gummi Pflege. The part number is 82 14 9 407 015 and the tube is about $6. This stuff cleans and conditions all the seals on the car. The tube has lasted me 4 years and is still going. It seems that it is best applied with your finger rather than the applicator on the tube. Jeremy Conners <SNIP> // The gasket around the passenger door opening on my car // has ripped at the very top corner, towards the rear of // the car. I assume that spot sees the most abuse from // the windows lowering and raising slightly as the door // opens and closes. Interestingly, the driver side is // fine, which certainly sees more use. <SNIP>

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#2. Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:31:46 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches Kent, These marks (small dimples) are on the backside of the wheel, so it's not a huge deal. But I still would prefer the other machines that don't leave the dimples. Chris > Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 13:07:37 -0700 > From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches > > Hi, > > Sounds strange. > My installer uses a machines that grabs the inside of the wheel on the > backside. > You have marks on the backside of the wheel and nothing ever touches the > front. > My installer uses padded tools when breaking the bead and when pulling > the tire past the lip. > > Now the P.O. of my car didn't know how to park so even the pin size > marks pale to the rash on a couple of wheels. > > Kent > > cteague@cox.net wrote: > > >Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 15:57:55 -0400 > >From: <cteague@cox.net> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches > > > >It's not the balancer, it's the mounting machine. > >Some do that. I have those on my wheels. I'm not > >real excited about them either. > > > >Chris

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#3. Re: [E36M3] would you drive with one broken front swaybar - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 15:52:26 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] would you drive with one broken front swaybar bracket? At 01:33 PM 8/26/04, Zack Steinkamp wrote: >so my question: if you were in this situation, would >you drive 10 miles to a dealer to get the part and 2 >miles back home to install it, or would you not drive >at all? BTDT. Had one F bracket break on the race car in Turn 6 at Laguna Seca. Made it back to the paddock just fine :-) And drove the ~120 miles home with no issues whatsoever. Handling was bit off <g>, but no problem. Just take it easy and you should have no problems. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5

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#4. Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches (fwd) - from air2daa@insightbb.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:58:26 +0000 From: air2daa@insightbb.com Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches (fwd) I am having this same experience today. I have two sets of identical rims - Borbet rims. One set is for street and the other for track. I've now bought three sets of tires from Tirerack shipped to a local installer and two sets installed without issue or question. Today I dropped off my rims to have a set of Dunlop Super Sport Race tires mounted and when I went ot pick them up the guy says he couldn't do it from the rear and was afraid of messing up the rim. He explained that the rim has a "drop" built into it and the shape of the front of the rim determine where the drop is placed on the rim. The Borbet Type rims that I own have spokes that curve back on itself to provide a high polish lip. Because of this, the drop of the rim is on the rear of the rim. The whole reason of the drop is to allow enough room to manuver the tire around to get both beads on the rim. The guy told me to do it properly, the tires have to be mounted with a front mount machine which has special rubber grips to hold the finished portion of the rim without marring it. Otherwise you get those little dipples where the machine holds the rim, scratches the clear coat and messes up the rim. Most places do not have a front mount machine and those who do, charge more. This explains to me why my street rims have messed up clear coat and I really don't care about the track rims. Hope this helps. Dave A 95 ///M3 "HIOFCR"

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#5. Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 16:00:19 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches Hi, It wasn't clear you were talking backside of the wheel. The only machines I have seen in the last few years grab the wheel from the back. The only machine I know of that is used in my area that does not is http://www.rogerkrausracing.com/tiremach.html. Roger Krause Racing is walking distance from my house and has done suspension work on my cars. At the mass market places, it's the one that grabs the back of the wheel. Kent cteague@cox.net wrote: >Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:31:46 -0400 >From: <cteague@cox.net> >Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] tire mounting and rim scratches > >Kent, > >These marks (small dimples) are on the backside of >the wheel, so it's not a huge deal. But I still would >prefer the other machines that don't leave the dimples. > >Chris > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt

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#6. wheels using hub rings, or spacers - from Tim Ng
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:31:37 -0700 From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> Subject: wheels using hub rings, or spacers Guys and gals, yes, it is more of a pain when you have to deal with hub rings or spacers/longer lugs, BUT there are advantages to using spacers to widen the track and hub rings IF they are the good ones (stay away from ANY plastic rings) will last a long time without any problems. I for 1 know that my BBS RC don't use hub rings BUT my SSRs do. When I go to the track, I make sure I have an extra hub ring in my track box in case I lose one. I also use studs and lug nuts, so I carry 2 spares of each. I also make sure that when I mount my wheels, I double check the hub rings or the spacers I am using (I use both 15mm H+R and 18mm BBS) Especially if you are tracking the car, its the little things that you have to check. make a check list so you can in the habit of doing each time. We all can't afford a pit crew to do everything so a list is a great way to make sure everything gets done and you have everything you need. Tim Ng

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#7. Re: selector shaft seal - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:24:03 EDT From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Re: selector shaft seal Kurt, I'll bet money that your seal is fine. What you are experiencing is the breather vent letting a little fluid out. Happens all the time on the race car. Track days will do that, depending on the fluid you use and how much you have in there. I have found no easy way to really stop it short of putting a hose on the breather, but there is not really enough room to do that... Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock

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#8. Re: selector shaft seal - from KResener@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:42:27 EDT From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Re: selector shaft seal Thanks for all of the replies to my post! Seems that the concessus is that it isn't the seal on the tranny, but rather the vent tube. Couple people at the track have suggested the same, so maybe a different oil would be less inclined to come out? I currently have Royal Purple Synchromax in the gearbox, I wonder if Mobil 1 would be less inclined to slop out? Don't suppose I can run a thicker viscosity without risking the tranny. Guess I'll try the less expensive fix first and swap oil, can anyone direct me to the correct Mobil 1 product? Thanks again for all of the suggestions. Kurt

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#9. OT: FS: MuVo2 4GB  (no Microdrive inside) - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:02:35 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: OT: FS: MuVo2 4GB (no Microdrive inside) Hi All. FOR SALE: MuVo2 4GB complete, except has no 4GB drive inside. I bought one of the latest $199 Creative MuVo2 4GB digital music players in May and extracted the 4GB Hitachi hard drive for other purposes (not digital photography, sadly, as these new MuVo's have Microdrives with the CF part of the controller disabled). http://www.creative.com/products/product.asp?prodid=9743 I have no use for the case (i.e the player itself) and all the rest of the stuff that comes with it. So, if anyone's interested in "building" such a player with a CF card they have laying around, make me an offer ... I guess with a CF card inside, you'd have the equivalent of the MuVo2 X-Trainer ... http://www.creative.com/products/product.asp?prodid=5080 And no, I don't have a disk image of what was on the 4GB drive to begin with -- you'll have to find that on the Internet: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1023&message=10032490 -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#10. Prepared class - legal rear suspension mods? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 09:41:53 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Prepared class - legal rear suspension mods? Group, What are the options out there for getting rid of the rubber bits in the rear suspension of an E36? I'm assuming that some of the rear camber arms that some companies sell are not legal since they have spherical bearings installed, I believe prepared class states bushing material is free but it doesn't mean a bearing is allowed. Am I correct? I'm gearing the mods towards prepared not ITS, I know if you run ITS you're allowed certain mods beyond prepared but you can't pick and choose the mods that suit you, you run under one set of rules or the other. Anywhoo... So based on that who's products are legal? Looking at some of the websites it looks like Rogue's rear camber arms use a bushing so that would be legal, the ones using bearings Turner, AA, GC, would not be? What about the infamous RTA bushing? I see Bimmerworld sells a Powerflex one, I was thinking of going with that one. Which others should I consider? Turner sells an upper control arm bearing which again I'm assumng wouldn't be allowed in prepared. What other choices are out there? Sorry for the newbie questions but this darn adjustable rear suspension has me thinking/worrying, the E30 was much simpler. :-) Carlos. PS I did ask the CRAC rep for my region (gee I crew for him) about the legality of spherical bearings in prepared so we'll see.

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