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#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? - from Gerry Low
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 11:08:11 -0400 From: "Gerry Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? I have H&R c/o's set at the lowest setting, RC's 17X8's w/38mm offset and the new Hankook 245/40/17 tires. Everything works after the rear lips are rolled as much as possible. Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Steven Tom [mailto:stom@qualcomm.com] Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 10:03 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 06:53:43 -0700 From: Steven Tom <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? I went through the same decision. I am running RC's 17x8's w/38mm offset. With my H&R c/o's 235 is the widest I can go because of the spring interference. On c/o's the spring perch sits lower than the stock setup. If you have a non-c/o setup the 245's should fit fine, outside of a little rubbing on the wheel wells when turning. I ended up going with the 225's. steve
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 10:10:51 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment? > BUT I also want a fail-safe backup in case the MPSC 255's rub too > much 36-oz. dead-blow hammer should take care of that :-) > -- that's why I'll bring a second set of wheels and tires Baaaa! (Dogbert dismissal :-)) Easy way out. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - w/255 Kumhos and well-wailed-upon rear fenders :-)
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#3. RTAB & tools - recommendations needed - from Alan Leung
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 12:58:13 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RTAB & tools - recommendations needed <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>I understand that this subject has been beaten to death before and a search on this topic turns up a million answers. Specifically I'm planning on replacing the RTAB on my 95M3 myself for the first time so I can benefit from as much info as you can give. My cooling system replacement earlier this year went smoothly because of all the help I got from this digest. </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>Specifically</FONT> <FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm looking at the new GC "white" plastic RTAB - anyone has experience with that? I heard of much squeaking problem with the original reinforcers and I think they stop making those. How does the new GC bushing compare to Powerflex? I'm looking for something that will keep rear toe change to a minimum at a reasonable price.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now the tools. I'm considering the Victory RTAB tool. Can't tell exactly how it works from their picture so your comment on how well it works is appreciated. I've heard about broken threaded rod before and would like to verify. Other than that I've heard of everything from drill to sawz-all. What worked best for you?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>And I suppose I need an alignment after replacing the RTAB?</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks!</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>Alan</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>95 M3</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=360263917-13092004><FONT face=Arial size=2>w/ aluminium radiator</FONT></SPAN></DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2728??PS=47575">Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!</a> </html>
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#4. RE: [E36M3] RTAB & tools - recommendations needed - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:34:16 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RTAB & tools - recommendations needed I did this last year and I used the GC shims with stock bushings. No squeaking and I've pulled it a few months ago and the stock bushings still look new. I used an air chisel to get the old bushings out. If you use a Sharpie to mark the bushing plate and reinstall lining up to those markings, you should be good with the alignment. I did that and I didn't need to change it when I got an alignment. -Bobby _____ From: Alan Leung Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 12:58:13 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" Subject: RTAB & tools - recommendations needed I understand that this subject has been beaten to death before and a search on this topic turns up a million answers. Specifically I'm planning on replacing the RTAB on my 95M3 myself for the first time so I can benefit from as much info as you can give. My cooling system replacement earlier this year went smoothly because of all the help I got from this digest. Specifically I'm looking at the new GC "white" plastic RTAB - anyone has experience with that? I heard of much squeaking problem with the original reinforcers and I think they stop making those. How does the new GC bushing compare to Powerflex? I'm looking for something that will keep rear toe change to a minimum at a reasonable price. Now the tools. I'm considering the Victory RTAB tool. Can't tell exactly how it works from their picture so your comment on how well it works is appreciated. I've heard about broken threaded rod before and would like to verify. Other than that I've heard of everything from drill to sawz-all. What worked best for you? And I suppose I need an alignment after replacing the RTAB? Thanks! Alan 95 M3 w/ aluminium radiator
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#5. OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets - from Todd C. Merrill
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:27:20 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets Off topic: What does the "et" stand for when talking about wheel offsets? For instance, in the topic "Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment?" a poster said: "i'm running 17x9 et42 wheels and need a 10mm spacer..." I know it means a 42mm offset, but "et"...is that an acronym or something? Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
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#6. Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 13:38:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets cool question! here's what i found after some yahoo-searching: from http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0205scc_wheelguide/ "ET" may or may not be present. It is an abbreviation of einpress tief, German that translates literally as "pushed in depth," or offset. neat ;-) zs --- "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:27:20 -0400 (EDT) > From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> > Subject: OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets > > > Off topic: > > What does the "et" stand for when talking about > wheel offsets? > For instance, in the topic "Dunlop SP Super Sport > 245/40-17 Fitment?" > a poster said: > > "i'm running 17x9 et42 wheels and need a 10mm > spacer..." > > I know it means a 42mm offset, but "et"...is that an > acronym or > something? > > Until next time... > Todd > 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe > BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter > --- > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets - from Hans Batra
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:38:36 -0400 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets Todd, ET in German = "Einpress Tiefe" which literally means "push in depth". Hans (no, I'm not German). :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 4:33 PM Subject: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:27:20 -0400 (EDT) > From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> > Subject: OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets > > > Off topic: > > What does the "et" stand for when talking about wheel offsets? > For instance, in the topic "Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment?" > a poster said: > > "i'm running 17x9 et42 wheels and need a 10mm spacer..." > > I know it means a 42mm offset, but "et"...is that an acronym or > something? > > Until next time... > Todd > 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe > BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter > --- > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 13:39:56 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: "et" designation in wheel offsets Re: >What does the "et" stand for when talking about wheel offsets? >For instance, in the topic "Dunlop SP Super Sport 245/40-17 Fitment?" >a poster said: German -- probably Einlegetiefe or Einbautiefe or Einstelltiefe -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#9. RE: [WindyCityBMW] RE: Header Changeout - from Robert Exconde (M3)
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:26:32 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde (M3)" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: RE: [WindyCityBMW] RE: Header Changeout Continuing my problems ... I just need to confim what I'm thinking: Ran the code check again today and it seems that I have multiple errors CA OX Sensor Control Limit Cyl 1-3 CB OX Sensor Control Limit Cyl 4-6 E3 OX Sensor Adaptation Control Limit Cyl 1-3 E4 OX Sensor Adaptation Control Limit Cyl 4-6 EE Misfire Cylinder 1 EF Misfire Cylinder 2 F0 Misfire Cylinder 3 F1 Misfire Cylinder 4 F2 Misfire Cylinder 5 F3 Misfire Cylinder 6 This seems a pretty major number of fault codes. After changing the headers on the M, would I be correct in assuming that this is probably due to a leak? Or is there anything else this could be before I rip up the engine again. I'm hoping for a simpler fix, but if it has to be done it has to be done.
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#10. Dead Climate Control - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:41:15 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Dead Climate Control Gruppe, My car has been struck by another of the inevitable failure points on our cars - the digital climate control on my '97 M3 crapped out. I know this is one of those eventual failure points, there's a few places on the net where you can send it & get it fixed up. I'll get to doing that after I come back from vacation. I was able to jiggle the connectors on the backside of the HVAC control (by pulling out the OBC display), then it started working. But likely it'll stop working again. Here's the question. While the HVAC control was busted, my feet were getting roasted by hot air. Normal? Will this be the case while the HVAC control is out of the car? Can I pull a fuse and stop this from singing my toes? Thanks in advance, HotShoes Andrej '97 M3