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#1. Re: [E36M3] E36 Euro free form headlights - from Boen168@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 16:47:09 EDT From: Boen168@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 Euro free form headlights Yes, these are made by ZKW and as I understand it, became available after 1996 in Germany. Came standard on some E36s, option on some others. These are BMW lights but don't have the part #s per se. Rgds, David In a message dated 10/4/2004 1:37:39 PM Pacific Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 23:37:16 -0700 From: Juan Bruce <jbruce@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 Euro free form headlights Are these BMW parts? Do they have a part number? or are they aftermarket? Juan Bruce VP BMW CCA GGC '95 M3 3.2 > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 14:17:21 EDT > From: Boen168@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 Euro free form headlights > > I have them on my '95 M3 purchased from a friend who brought in a couple of > sets from Germany some 4 or 5 years ago. I like the 180 degree lighting it > gave which is brighter than the Euro elipsoids and stock. Hey...if you switch to > the HIDs and need to replace them, let me know...I'll be interested to buy > them from you to keep as a spare. > > Rgds, > David > '95 M3 mit Euro FF Tech lights > > In a message dated 10/3/2004 10:27:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, > e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 00:53:14 -0500 > From: Travis Hale <TravisHale@gmail.com> > Subject: E36 Euro free form headlight? > > I have these on my m3 and have been thinking about switching to a HID > setup. This means i'll need projectors to go along with them. Anyway, > i've never really seen the euro free form lights anywere else and most > people have no idea what i'm talking about when i mention them. The > question i have is do they have any value? Will I be able to sell them > to help cover the cost of new headlights? I'm hopeing some people on > here have atleast heard of them. >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Any way to clean race pad brake dust - from Jay G
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 11:57:14 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Any way to clean race pad brake dust whatta bout using a clay bar??? cant hurt to try... and anyone here use rejex as a wax for the paint on their car??? how long does it last??? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > Since Rejex is basically a wax-like product to stop brake dust from bonding > to your wheels, I don't see that it's going to help after the fact. >
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#3. Re: selector rod joint replacement - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 16:38:18 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <pbfanning@comcast.net> Subject: Re: selector rod joint replacement Tim, I ended up having to cut the spring steel C clip off with a dremel tool. It's been suggested that a dental pick could get the spring off. Once the spring is off you can just push the pin out with a small allen key. Peter Fanning '98 M3/4 At 09:06 PM 10/3/2004, you wrote: >From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> >Subject: selector rod joint replacement > >If anyone has done this, can you send me a private email? I need to figure >out how to get the pin out of the joint. > >Doing a shifter install. > >Thanks, > >Tim >95 M3
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#4. RE: Check engine light - from bob thomas
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 01:32:47 +0000 From: "bob thomas" <bobthomas18@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Check engine light Thanks for your responses. I learned that Autozone & Advance Auto wll read it for free. Had them do it & it seems to be fuel filler cap. -Bob Thomas
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#5. Re: selector rod joint replacement - from Tim Williams
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 22:54:05 -0400 From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: selector rod joint replacement Thanks for all the replies, and for all the suggestions. Pressed the pin out with a modified C clamp and a small piece of aluminum channel for backing. Tim 95 M3
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#6. Re: Any way to clean race pad brake dust - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 01:00:21 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Re: Any way to clean race pad brake dust Neil, Hello. You are absolutely correct.. Rejex will not help after the fact. I have heard that Chester's suggtion about the oven cleaner may work... I have also heard that all of the scrubbing/chemicals may damage the rim's surface. Treating the surface with Rejex before the event is excellent protection against this sort of problem. Mo -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:16:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Any way to clean race pad brake dust on 10/3/04 11:06 PM, "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > I haven't tried this yet, but it's on my to-do list, as my track wheels have > been gunked up for a long time due to PF97 dust getting wet... This is a > post made by Mo Karamat a while back: <snip> Since Rejex is basically a wax-like product to stop brake dust from bonding to your wheels, I don't see that it's going to help after the fact. Neil 96 M3
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#7. [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 07:29:02 -0400 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA Hi group, I plan on stiffening my rear Koni SA, since the car seems to bounce a bit with 1.5 turns from full soft (Eibach Pro springs). Typically, I would hold the shock shaft in a vice, compress it, and turn the body of the shock. Which way do you turn the body to stiffen the shock? I'm thinking 2 full turns from full soft will do it. Thanks, Col '98 M3 (Eiback, Koni SA, RD sways...)
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 05:17:52 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA If you look near the bottom of the shock body, the direction for stiff ot soft is stamped in the metal. IIRC, it'll have a + and -, to indicate stiffer or softer. Also, you can tell when the shock is at full stiff because it won't rebound by itself. It'll stay compressed unless you pull it out. It'd better if you make your adjustments starting at full stiff. So, if the total range of movement is 2.5 turns, you would currently be at 1 turn from full stiff. As you get closer to full stiff, the same amount of adjustment has more effect. In other words, a quarter turn near full stiff has more effect than a quarter turn near full soft. Jay > > Hi group, > > I plan on stiffening my rear Koni SA, since the car seems to bounce a bit > with 1.5 turns from full soft (Eibach Pro springs). Typically, I would > hold the shock shaft in a vice, compress it, and turn the body of the > shock. Which way do you turn the body to stiffen the shock? > > I'm thinking 2 full turns from full soft will do it. > > Thanks, > Col > '98 M3 (Eiback, Koni SA, RD sways...) >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 06:12:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adjusting Rear Koni SA I agree with Jay and was going to write exactly that before I read his post. You're better off starting from full stiff. For Eibach springs, I would start 3/4 turn to 1 turn from full stiff. Chester --- "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> wrote: > It'd better if you make your adjustments starting at full stiff. So, if the > total range of movement is 2.5 turns, you would currently be at 1 turn from > full stiff. As you get closer to full stiff, the same amount of adjustment > has more effect. In other words, a quarter turn near full stiff has more > effect than a quarter turn near full soft. =====
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#10. Carfax, CLUE report help? - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 10:35:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Carfax, CLUE report help? WBSAK0315LAE33911 TIA, Mike __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail