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#1. RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 10:19:48 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Wire it for electricity, insert bulb and put a lampshade on it :) Which reminds me....does anyone have a value line on the aluminum housing replacement for the plastic one. What do you call it the thermo housing? Just realized I have the plastic one which makes me nervous....Thinking it's even more important now considering some future mods, <evil grin> Thanks, Patrick Goss 97 e36m3/4 Hellrot -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 10:10 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:08:53 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Water pump fun... I sourced a new water pump from Bimmerparts last week. I took the old one out and surprise... no plastic impeller! The old pump had a spot welded 'sheet metal' impeller and the new part from Bimmerparts had a cast(iron?) impeller. The new part looked much less efficient than the old one. But, since I was in there, I didn't want to put the old one back in and have the bearing fail on me in 1000 miles. Hmmm. I did save the old pump, I don't know why, but I did. Mel ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 08:26:17 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Wow what a coincidence, I just have exactly the same! And I agree, the new Bimmerparts pump looks heavier and less cool than the stamped/welded OEM pump. I could feel some vertical movement when I jiggled the original pump so installed the new one. I'll be taking the old one to the track with me as a spare just in case someone loses a water pump. At lest the old pump will get them home. Graeme p.s. I have an August build '97 M3/4 with 76k miles. -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 8:10 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:08:53 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Water pump fun... I sourced a new water pump from Bimmerparts last week. I took the old one out and surprise... no plastic impeller! The old pump had a spot welded 'sheet metal' impeller and the new part from Bimmerparts had a cast(iron?) impeller. The new part looked much less efficient than the old one. But, since I was in there, I didn't want to put the old one back in and have the bearing fail on me in 1000 miles. Hmmm. I did save the old pump, I don't know why, but I did. Mel ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. Re: Scattered the fan today - from Justin Gerry
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 10:31:55 -0400 From: "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> Subject: Re: Scattered the fan today Josh, I'd consider Zionsville fan kit they typically sell with their alloy radiator. I believe it is a E36 diesel fan, its smaller diameter (and its not as loud) and it has a new fan clutch. Otherwise go with stock like everyone else says, though I would replace the fan clutch for a piece of mind either way. -Justin > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 22:58:52 +0000 > From: docwyte@comcast.net > Subject: Scattered the fan today... > > Was out doing a few fun runs and managed to scatter the fan. It totally > came apart! All the blades just snapped right off. Luckily it didn't > damage the radiator or anything else. > What's the word on replacement fans? Go with OEM from the dealer, or is > it ok to source one from Bimmerparts or something? > -josh
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#4. White goop in engine - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 08:41:40 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: White goop in engine While replacing my thermostat/water pump and radiator, I noticed that in some places, there is white goop coating the inside of the engine. It's not the main cooling channels as the water pup and water pump housing is perfectly fine. Anyone care to educate me what this stuff is? http://gwl.rmsolo.org/WG/ TIA, Graeme
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:44:30 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... I had to look, but my '97 M3/4 was built on 09/96. Almost a year apart. When did they switch to the plastic impeller? When did they stop using it? Mel www.melsilva.net -----Original Message----- From: Graeme Weston-Lewis [mailto:gweston@lsil.com] Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 9:30 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 08:26:17 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Wow what a coincidence, I just have exactly the same! And I agree, the new Bimmerparts pump looks heavier and less cool than the stamped/welded OEM pump. I could feel some vertical movement when I jiggled the original pump so installed the new one. I'll be taking the old one to the track with me as a spare just in case someone loses a water pump. At lest the old pump will get them home. Graeme p.s. I have an August build '97 M3/4 with 76k miles. -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 8:10 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Water pump fun... Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:08:53 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Water pump fun... I sourced a new water pump from Bimmerparts last week. I took the old one out and surprise... no plastic impeller! The old pump had a spot welded 'sheet metal' impeller and the new part from Bimmerparts had a cast(iron?) impeller. The new part looked much less efficient than the old one. But, since I was in there, I didn't want to put the old one back in and have the bearing fail on me in 1000 miles. Hmmm. I did save the old pump, I don't know why, but I did. Mel ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Re: Replacing RTABs... how low can the hub go? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:47:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Replacing RTABs... how low can the hub go? on 10/22/04 9:19 AM, "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> wrote: > I'm right in the middle of some significant suspension work (installing > coilovers, replacing RTABs) and a good question has come up: how low can I > let the rear hub drop down without damaging the CV joints? > > I've removed the 3 18mm bolts from the console and I have the hub supported > by a jack. Dropping the RTAB area isn't necessary to change springs, although I realize that in this case you were doing that anyhow. > The Bentley manual says to remove the half-shafts before doing > the bushings, And nobody, but *nobody* does that! > I realize, also, that in order to swap the spring out I'm going to need to > either drop the hub lower or get a spring compressor. Nope. > Am I okay to drop the > hub down low enough that the spring just falls out? It won't fall out. Do this: - Reattach the RTAB pivot so that the hub doesn't flop around. - Make sure the handbrake is off. - Undo the lower shock bolts on *both* sides (otherwise the swaybar connection will prevent full droop). On my car the limiting factor then becomes the RD bar against the muffler. - Push the hub down as far as it will go. (Support with a jackstand if you want to keep strain off the CV joints). - Use a prybar to pop the stock spring out. It won't take a lot of compression or effort, just enough to pop the lower end over the control arm's lip. Aftermarket springs such as H&R Sports can be popped in and out by hand, but the stock parts are long enough to need some help. I've done this dozens of times. There's no need to undo the trailing arm pivot or to detach the brake line union from the trailing arm. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] White goop in engine - from ajvdh1@comcast.net
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:56:00 +0000 From: ajvdh1@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] White goop in engine Maybe the DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) didn't use distilled water the last time coolant was changed? - Alain -- "You can't buff out a tree." Jim Leithauser explains the advantages of autocross as a car-control training venue. > Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 08:41:40 -0600 > From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> > Subject: White goop in engine > > While replacing my thermostat/water pump and radiator, I noticed that in some > places, there is white goop coating the inside of the engine. It's not the > main cooling channels as the water pup and water pump housing is perfectly > fine. > Anyone care to educate me what this stuff is? > http://gwl.rmsolo.org/WG/
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#8. Shark Injector - To Inject or Not - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 07:57:58 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Shark Injector - To Inject or Not Hi, Wondering if the Shark is really worth it on the E36. $350 is beyond my threshold of a "no brainer". When I did my E30 M3 it was $200. For better drivability it was worth it. For my E36 I don't have any cold start problems. For those that have done the swap and removed the baffle from the airbox; what is the seat of the pants evaluation? Kent -- Please sponsor my daughter's school raffle, education is important. For more information: http://www.kls-consulting.com/shelton/shelton1a.jpg http://www.kls-consulting.com/shelton/shelton2a.jpg Tickets are available through me.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Scattered the fan today - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 11:12:29 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Scattered the fan today >I'd consider Zionsville fan kit they typically sell with their alloy >radiator. I believe it is a E36 diesel fan, its smaller diameter (and >its not as loud) and it has a new fan clutch. Otherwise go with stock >like everyone else says, though I would replace the fan clutch for a >piece of mind either way. I would consider motor mounts and tranny mounts also or else that new fan is going to move around and hit stuff again. Carlos.
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#10. Re: Cross-threaded Rotor - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 10:04:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cross-threaded Rotor on 10/21/04 2:30 PM, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: >> Any write-ups on how to change the hub? > I'm sure someone does, maybe Neil Maller? (His front hub write-up is on the > same site you reference above - Ron Stygar's page at Unofficial E36.) Unfortunately - or fortunately, depending on whose point of view - I've never had to do a rear hub/heel bearing. And I've never seen a write-up. However it's my understanding that special pullers/tools are absolutely required, and that the set runs about $250 or so. (I'd welcome any corrections or clarifications.) If I were Bob: 1) I wouldn't even consider drilling out or rethreading the hub. That would be strictly a "get home" measure if this happened while you were at the track or something. b) I'd have a dealer replace all the afflicted parts. iii) The bill would go to the tire shop that buggered up the job in the first place, or they'd be invited to meet me in small claims court at their earliest inconvenience. I can't even imagine how much torque it takes to break a 12mm lug bolt. This also means that every other lug bolt they touched should be replaced, and that the other hub (hubs?) is also suspect. Neil 96 M3