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#1. Passenger Seat Occupancy Sensor - from jbjerke@charter.net
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 18:15:18 +0000 From: <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Passenger Seat Occupancy Sensor I replaced the Magma lux package seats with standard black manual M3 seats in my Wife's 1997 M3. The donor car was my 1997 M3 race car. The seat heaters plugged in just fine and I have an extra connector for the missing power seat option originally on the car. The remaining wires on the passenger side are all female connectors which I assume are for the passenger seat occupancy sensor as the airbag light has come on. Does anyone know why this would be? Both cars are 1997 M3 sedans only differing in one has lux pkg and the other does not. Which color wires do I need to connect to hook this sensor back up? The Bently color codes do not coinside with any wires I have under the seat. Jeff Bjerke
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#2. FS: Eibach springs 400lb - from adam kim
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 11:16:14 -0700 From: "adam kim" <adamkim@mindspring.com> Subject: FS: Eibach springs 400lb Pair of Eibach springs for sale. 400lb. 2.5" x 7". $70 -adam
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Final drive change for ' 95. - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 11:22:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Final drive change for ' 95. I will be rebuilding my diff as a project and have sourced a 3.46 gearset as well as the BMW Quaife. It's going to take a while, but I figure a) I'll save money doing it myself and b) I have yet to see any rebuilt diff built to factory specs. You'd be surprised how many places out there that "really know what they're doing" not really knowing what they're doing...or maybe they're just lazy... Stay tuned... Chester --- rickd <rickd@swfla.rr.com> wrote: > I'm seriously considering changing the stock 3:15 to a 3:46. The reason is > for improved acceleration, street only. Haven't found any internet > testimonials concerning this exact model and gear change. Has anyone done > such a change and are results worth the $2k+ it will take to bring it about? > I understand the implications of changing gearing (rpm's, top speed, etc.). > Just really don't want to drop that kind of bread and be disappointed. > Thoughts? =====
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#4. Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:23:30 -0400 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help > > chart 16 > > E6 "PreCat oxygen sensor response time, Cyl #4-6" > > FE "EVAP large leak detected" > > However, the second one, I am curious about. Is this implying the > > refrigerant is leaking? > > Refrigerant?!? You think this is referring to your A/C system? > > Nearly all the OBD-II check engine faults codes are concerned with emmisions > control devices. And although there appears great liberties taken with what is > considered "emmisions-related", the A/C ain't on that list. > > Most common culprit for the "large leak detected" fault - you left the gas cap > loose. Seriously. Really? Interesting. My first thought (and my dad too who has been a car nut for ever and works on cars routinely) was this was a problem with the EVAPorator, didn't know this was for EVAPorative Emissions, doh! Ok so loose gas cap? I know this can cause Check Engine light (duh!) so I always make sure to put it on tightly. Strange maybe it wasn' tput on tightly before (just got the car, only have put gas in like 2 or 3 times). So my follow up would be, how long does it take for this to go away and should I just reset the CE and see if it doesn't come back on? Two, how do I make sure the gas cap is on correctly... obviously, insert all the way, and twist all the way to it locks, correct? Third, if it doesn't clear up in the right amount of time, what else could be causing this? Thanks! ted
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#5. RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:36:21 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help Third, if it doesn't clear up in the right amount of time, what else could be causing this? Thanks! ----------- Removing gas cap while ignition on during fill up.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:40:07 -0400 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help > Third, if it doesn't clear up in the right amount of time, what else > could be causing this? Thanks! > > ----------- > Removing gas cap while ignition on during fill up. Yeah I always turn my car off and take out the keys before I even open remove the gas cap. But does leaving your keys on and the radio on still cause this error as well? Will make note of it for future fill ups. ted
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#7. RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help - from Eric Carlson
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:58:16 -0400 From: "Eric Carlson" <eric@bluehammock.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help Pretty simple (and silly) solution, but I had a similar problem. I ended up replacing the aging rubber gasket on the cap w/ a new one. No more CELs after fillup. The original didn't look to bad, it was just getting a little stiff and worn. - Eric ________________________________ From: J FILES [mailto:jsf03724@san.rr.com] Sent: Thu 10/28/2004 10:19 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 19:12:07 -0700 From: "J FILES" <jsf03724@san.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help As others have pointed out, the FE is a pressure imbalance on the atmosphere side of the gas tank, not a problem with the HVAC system. The most common cause of the code is a loose gas cap. If you take it to a dealer that is what they will say, for they will not want to diagnose further. If it recurs, there are a few other things it could be other than simply a loose gas cap, and we can dive in to those when it comes back up for you. I'll go through the list of things that have been checked for my car, and the one more that will be investigated when I find time to deal with it. I have a recurring FE code, and I do not believe that I fail to put the gas cap on properly as many times as I have had the FE code... Jim
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#8. 3.46 diff - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 15:14:18 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: 3.46 diff yes, did exactly what you are thinking about. I bought a used 635 diff labeled with s3.46. The "S" means limited slip. Took it apart and used the ring and pinion and LSD and rebuilt the 3.15 Correctly shimmed and preloaded the bearings with all new seals... Performance - awesome!! you have to anticipate the shifts from 1st and 2nd gear at redline. If you wait too long, you will hit the rev limiter. Of course, this is with LTW flywheel also. A street start and rolling into full throttle, the rear tires will break loose around 5,000 rpm, then you have to watch out for rev limiter. Gearing is nice on the large tracks. with the 10% increase in ratio, your top speed gearing is reduced by 10% to approx. 140mph. The fastest track here in the midwest is Road America where you can hit the good side of 130 in a prepared car. on the highway, at rpm is around 4,000 @ 80mph. bob >Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:17:37 -0400 >From: "rickd" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> >Subject: Final drive change for ' 95. > >I'm seriously considering changing the stock 3:15 to a 3:46. The reason is for improved acceleration, street only. Haven't found any internet testimonials concerning this exact model and gear change. Has anyone done such a change and are results worth the $2k+ it will take to bring it about? I understand the implications of changing gearing (rpm's, top speed, etc.). Just really don't want to drop that kind of bread and be disappointed. Thoughts? >
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#9. RE: Final Drive Change - from Steve Klein
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:23:17 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: RE: Final Drive Change I'll chime in on this, since I'd like more info as well. I've talked to Jim Blanton (www.performancegearing.com ) about doing that to mine as well as his chromolly parts and custom lockup ramps and it was about $2800 for the total package (which would last a lifetime). But I've also got my eye on the Eurosport twin-sc. supercharger as an eventual mod, and I'm wondering if the combo would make first gear uselessly shorter than it already is. With FI, is it better to keep a stock 3.15? Jim mentioned the 3.38 gearset was harder to get (more $) and sugggested the 3.46 as well (for street and autox use, eventual track days). Gurus? On Oct 29, 2004, at 12:39 PM, E36M3 wrote: > From: "rickd" <rickd@swfla.rr.com> > Subject: Final drive change for ' 95. > > I'm seriously considering changing the stock 3:15 to a 3:46. The > reason is for improved acceleration, street only.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Final Drive Change - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 12:39:48 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Final Drive Change Re: >I'll chime in on this, since I'd like more info as well. I've talked >to Jim Blanton (www.performancegearing.com ) about doing that to >mine as well as his chromolly parts and custom lockup ramps and it >was about $2800 for the total package (which would last a lifetime). >But I've also got my eye on the Eurosport twin-sc. supercharger as >an eventual mod, and I'm wondering if the combo would make first >gear uselessly shorter than it already is. With FI, is it better to >keep a stock 3.15? Jim mentioned the 3.38 gearset was harder to get >(more $) and sugggested the 3.46 as well (for street and autox use, >eventual track days). Jim Blanton built my Getrag 265 gearbox back in the early 90's when he was still at Metric Mechanic. It now has over 115,000 miles on it, behind a 265hp 3.6l big six, and shifts no different from day 1 (Redline MTL in it always). And that tranny has seen a lot of street abuse. :) He does seem to know what he's talking about ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com