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#1. RE: peake FCX code interpration help - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 10:51:38 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: peake FCX code interpration help I have done this on one occasion and as result my gas gauge went wacky for about a week. I don't know if it was coincidence or bad gas (high water content) but that series of events has occurred to me, excluding the check engine light. Quoting Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com>: But does leaving your keys on and the radio on still cause this error as well? Then Jim Bassett responded: "No, but some have reported that this causes an erratic or misreading gas gauge. Personally, I haven't experienced this particular issue, but then 99% of the time the keys are off/out of the ignition during fill up."
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#2. E36 M3 Lock Problems - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 10:55:16 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: E36 M3 Lock Problems I too experienced 'lock gravel'. I applied lock lube (powdered graphite) to my locks. This required a couple of applications but solved the problem. I took it to the dealer just before my warranty expired and the SA told me that I needed a new key. He also stated that I should start using my alarm to lock and unlock and asked me why I didn't own an alarm when I told him I don't have one. They doused the tumblers with some sort of liquid lube and the problem got worse. I reapplied graphite and the problem went away. Possibly the link from the solenoid for the electronic lock mechanism has disassociated itself from the lock mechanism and that is why it no longer functions on the passenger side when locking from the drivers side. Or the lock mechanism is so dry the solenoid cannot overcome the force required to move the mechanism. Additionally, it sounds like the passenger door requires a latch adjustment. I don't know how to accomplish this but it should be an easy adjustment (see Bentley's)and hopefully others will chime in. Kim Burgess 99 M3 ---------- Today I noticed that the passenger door will not lock when you lock car from driver side (using the key). It will work if you use the key on passenger side, but it is very hard/rough to turn the key. The passenger side door handle also feels notchy and rough. Also noticed that you cannot turn the key at all in the trunk lock. The doors also seem to need an extra hard push to get them to close. The driver side door locking mechanism (handle and locking unit) has been replaced not to long ago. Any help is welcomed. Bill P Kim L Burgess (425)342-5539 http://card.web.boeing.com/WebCard.cfm?id=129390
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#3. Locking Problems - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 13:01:04 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Locking Problems It's amazing how situations I deal with almost parallel in an eerie way the discussions of the list. That being said, just this Saturday, I fixed very similar problems on my '95 M3 with main symptoms being very hard door pulls, with the handles traveling near the limit then releasing with a hard pop, and the drivers door occasionally not latching when I shut it. I removed the door panels to get to the latching mechanisms and they were surprisingly easy to remove, but a bit puzzle-ish. Three large torx fasteners hold the mechanism, one holds the inside door latch (which is connected by a long rod), and aside from the wiring harnesses and plugs, there is a roller at the top that you have to lift the lever arm upwards and off of. A bit tricky, but when you're in there, you'll see what has to happen. I blasted from every open orifice with an aerosol lubricant and worked the mechanism many times to free dirt and grime. Repeat to cleanse it, then I applied petroleum jelly to all the moving parts with q-tips, again working the mechanism to get the lube into all the parts. Both doors now lock and unlock with much less noise, and the doors open like new (buttah) on both sides from both inside the car and out. I had my lock and mechanism replaced for a costly sum when this happened before, but one hour with a few tools is all it took. Hope this helps, Steve On Nov 1, 2004, at 12:19 PM, E36M3 wrote: > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 Lock Problems > > "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> wrote: >> >> Today I noticed that the passenger door will not lock when you lock >> car from driver side (using the key). It will work if you use the key >> on passenger side, > > Bill, > I assume we are talking about an E36 2-door since you had cross posted > to > the E36M3 list and did not identify the passenger door as neither front > nor rear. > If so, replace the passenger side lock actuator. About $80 from the > dealer > the last time I looked. Bentley has a section on this procedure. > It is a very common failure point. 3 out of 4 lock actuators had > failed on > my wife's E36. Luckily, two went out under warranty. > >> but it is very hard/rough to turn the key. The passenger side door >> handle also feels notchy and rough. Also noticed that you cannot >> turn the key at all in the trunk lock. > > I was going to suggest lubing the door lock and/or adjusting the strike > plate. If you having the difficulty with all the locks, including the > trunk, I would suspect the key. It could be bent or damaged with age. I > had that problem on my ex-E30's keys, but the car was 10+ years old and > had 200+K miles. > >> The driver side door locking mechanism (handle and locking unit) >> has been replaced not to long ago. > > What was wrong with them? > Not that it will effect the passenger side, but it could give you a > clue. > > HTH, > alex f
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#4. Re: E36 M3 Lock Problems - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:05:23 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: E36 M3 Lock Problems Along these same lines... I have a '96 and I noticed recently that unlocking the trunk will not unlock the rest of the car. I used to be able to open the trunk by turning the key in my old 5 series, and the rest of the car would open as well. I thought that had changed in the E36, until a buddy unlocked his this way and the rest of the doors unlocked as well. So what's broken on mine? Shane __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com
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#5. Re: Final drive change - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:56:17 EST From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Re: Final drive change Steve - FWIW, prior to installing the Eurosport's beta twin screw in my M Coupe, Brett Anderson swapped out my 3.46 for a 3.15. Definitely the right move. Neil In a message dated 10/29/04 12:01:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:23:17 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: RE: Final Drive Change I'll chime in on this, since I'd like more info as well. I've talked to Jim Blanton (www.performancegearing.com ) about doing that to mine as well as his chromolly parts and custom lockup ramps and it was about $2800 for the total package (which would last a lifetime). But I've also got my eye on the Eurosport twin-sc. supercharger as an eventual mod, and I'm wondering if the combo would make first gear uselessly shorter than it already is. With FI, is it better to keep a stock 3.15? Jim mentioned the 3.38 gearset was harder to get (more $) and sugggested the 3.46 as well (for street and autox use, eventual track days).
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#6. Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 10:09:35 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] peake FCX code interpration help > > Third, if it doesn't clear up in the right amount of time, what else > > could be causing this? Thanks! > > Could be a worn gasket on the gas cap, so that even if the cap is secured all > the way it just doesn't make a good seal. BTRT (Been There, Replaced That :-)) Yeah I think this could be the problem. I drove out to Indianapolis this weekend (9 hour drive each way from DC) and I reset the CE before leaving after I filled up with gas. No CE for a while but then it came back on after I stopped for gas, or ~500 miles later. Same fault codes, O2 sensor and EVAP large leak. Did the same on the way back and CE still came back on. I am thinking the gasket could definetly be worn, because I am tightening it all the way. I'll have to throw that on my todo list! ted
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#7. RE: Tensioner - from Scott King
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 06:57:34 -0500 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Tensioner <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE> <P><FONT face="Courier New">Steve,</FONT></P> <P><FONT face="Courier New">I spoke to you a few months ago regarding replacement of the upper chain tensioner etc on you M3.</FONT></P> <P><FONT face="Courier New">Last time I talked to you, you were still experiencing some noise and were about to change the secondary timing chain. Did you ever make this change, and did it solve your problem? I am getting ready to actually get into troubleshooting my chain noise and wanted to see if you had any additional feedback.</FONT></P> <P>Thanks for any info.</P> <P>Scott King</P> <P><FONT face="Courier New"></FONT> </P> <P><FONT face="Courier New"></FONT> </P> <P><FONT face="Courier New">Scott- <BR>I've gone in and replaced that and more on my '95. Suzy is hosting write-up I put together. It's in her tech section: <BR><BR></FONT><A href="javascript:OpenWin('http://65.54.187.250:80/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN&lah=9680ba3191cac0fa38c12851e71c7b1d&lat=1099482842&hm___action=http%253a%252f%252fbmw%252dm%252enet%252fTechProc%252fcamshaft%252ehtm');"><FONT color=#000099>http://bmw-m.net/TechProc/camshaft.htm</FONT></A><FONT face="Courier New"> <BR><BR>I believe you'll need to remove the VANOS unit to get to the lower bolt (which is long). <BR><BR>After replacing sprockets, the VANOS unit, lifters and tensioners, I still have a strong klacking that I can feel on the cover right above the tensioner. <BR><BR>My last suspect: Upper Timing Chain. That's the only component I haven't replaced in the top end and at 130k/mi of service, I'm sure it's due for retirement. Actually, looking at the pictures in my write-up, it looks a bit loose. <BR><BR>If you're going in to do the tensioner, I'd at least replace the chain as well. <BR><BR>I'll have mine and hope to install it this weekend. I'll let you know how it turns out. <BR><BR>Namaste, <BR>Steve <BR>a.k.a. Mad Pierot </FONT><BR><BR><BR></P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2752??PS=47575" target="_top">Rock, jazz, country, soul & more. Find the music you love on MSN Music!</a> </html>
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#8. Alternator upgrade - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:49:52 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Alternator upgrade Can my 80 amp alternator be replaced with a 120 or 140 amp? What other changes would be necessary, if any? thx, Mike _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Alternator upgrade - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 07:05:35 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator upgrade > Subject: Alternator upgrade > > Can my 80 amp alternator be replaced with a 120 or 140 amp? What other > changes would be necessary, if any? > > thx, > > Mike > When mine died ('97 M3), the dealer asked me if I wanted to replace it with the 140a unit. I said yes. AFAIK, it's a straight replacement. No issues. Jay
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Alternator upgrade - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:12:41 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator upgrade > When mine died ('97 M3), the dealer asked me if I wanted to replace it with > the 140a unit. I said yes. Hey Jay, when did your alternator die? I have a 97 M3/4 as well and I'm around 92k miles so I know it could be sometime soon. Thanks! ted