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#1. Re: [E36M3] Was Carbon build up ... now Oil Consumption - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 09:23:37 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Carbon build up ... now Oil Consumption FWIW, BMW bulletin 0001942140 says 2.5 qt/1000 mi is normal for the 3.0 > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2004 18:22:39 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams ... now Carbon build up ... > > GODDAMN! One quart every 600 miles? Ugh. What I don't understand is how you > would be able to reseat the rings if the cylinder bores weren't rehoned? Very, > very interesting....hell, I might as well get some forged pistons while I'm at > it, right? ;) > > Thanks for the input, > Chester > > --- the_buch@telus.net wrote: > > My engine was just completely rebuilt at 140,000km (90,000miles)... this saga > > > > started with oil consumption which had reached one quart per 600miles ... > > leakdown and compression were almost perfect and valve stem seals was > > initially identified as the culprit ... when the head came off the amount of > > carbon on the pistons was significant and the diagnosis was changed to piston > > > > rings (yes, despite the near perfect leakdown) ... since rebuilding, > > following > > a robust breakin to really set up the rings this time, and now running only > > 15W-40 mineral oil as recommended by BMW (I may switch to synthetic again > > eventually, but not until I am absolutely certain the rings are set up!!!), I > > > > am now burning zero oil - even better than when the car was first broken in?? > > > > I mention this so that 1. you don't put your motors back together until you > > are sure the rings are OK ... 2. if rings, you consider using mineral for a > > significant period to complete breakin very well ... 3. you read the breakin > > recommendation at http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm > > =====
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#2. Euro part questions - from Bruce
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 17:45:43 -0600 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: Euro part questions Does anybody know if the A/C pump and the power steering pump from a Euro 3.2 can work on a US motor? Also...will the adjustable steering column from a RHD fit on a LHD US car? Thanks, Bruce
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#3. [E36 M3] Snow Wheels/Tires - from JayKenty@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 19:41:53 EST From: JayKenty@aol.com Subject: [E36 M3] Snow Wheels/Tires Went out today to make the annual switch to my snow set and found a big surprise. Since last winter, I had my front brake pads and rotors replaced, and now the 16" Borbet Type H wheels no longer fit. (Does this make sense?) The clearance was tight before the change, but there was no contact. Now the back of the caliper makes contact with the inside of the rim. I've used this set for two seasons, and it looks like now I'll have to replace them. So now I'm looking for a set of 17" wheels with performance snows mounted- and I don't want to pay for a new set. Does anyone have a set that they want to get rid of? ( I don't want to try 16" again, even if they fit around the brakes). Jay Kenty '96 M3 RI, USA
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#4. FS: Four 17x8.5" BMW Forged OE wheels - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 17:05:27 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Four 17x8.5" BMW Forged OE wheels I believe the part number is 36 11 2 227 860. These are the polished forged factory wheels. They only had regular tires mounted (S03s, Pilot Sports) but I did use them on the track for a few sessions when conditions were iffy with the PF01/97 pads. That compounded with driving to and from the track with the track pads in place, the dust settled and got a bit wet. These are not show quality wheels and could use some TLC to buff the clearcoat back to a luster. http://www.pbase.com/ekosan/for_sale - The wheel in image 1184 has a slight scratch on the rim edge at the 12 o'clock position. - The wheel in image 1185 has a glob of something that I haven't tried removing at the 12 o'clock position. Otherwise, the wheel is in real good condition. - The wheel in image 1186 has a scratch on the rim edge at the 12 o'clock position as well as the 6 o'clock position from the tire mounting machines. - The whel in image 1187 is in pretty good condition. All wheels have the BMW metal valve stem. I'm looking for $900 OBO. Chester =====
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#5. Bad Alt. Bearings? - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 12:46:33 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Bad Alt. Bearings? Hey, Gang- When alternator bearings go, is it a higher pitched rasping that sounds very similar to the idler / belt tensioner pullies? Thanks, Steve
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#6. H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? - from Som Naderi
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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:39:05 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? Hello Group, I just finished installing the H&R coilover kit on my '98 coupe. Installed the coilovers, new RTABs, new RSMs, and front KMAC camber caster plates. I remember reading some people say they were able to use the kit without spacers and some people said they needed spacers. I have the stock staggered M-contour setup, and I have all of maybe 3mm of space between my tire and the front struts now. I have the plates set to full negative camber (without going to the "race setup" where the whole plate goes in at a different angle) and this is all the room I have. I don't suppose this will be enough space, will it? How much can I expect the camber to change during hard driving? What size spacers will I want? 10mm? 15mm? Does the quality of spacers make a difference or can I just find the cheapest spacers available? Does anyone have any 10-15mm spacers they'd like to sell? (if I need them) Another question: when I put the nuts on the top of the rear shock shaft, the torque setting was 10 ft-lb. Am I supposed to tighten this nut all the way down the threading that's on the shaft before I reach 10 ft-lb? I have a feeling that the nut isn't as far down the shaft as it should/could be... Thanks for any help you guys can provide... appreciation in advance! - Som
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#7. Re: [E36M3] H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 16:51:23 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? > Another question: when I put the nuts on the top of the rear shock shaft, the > torque setting was 10 ft-lb. Am I supposed to tighten this nut all the way > down the threading that's on the shaft before I reach 10 ft-lb? I have a > feeling that the nut isn't as far down the shaft as it should/could be... Don't know what the torque on this nut is supposed to be but yes, it needs to be tightened all the way so that the shoulder at the top of the shock shaft is in contact with the RSM without any play up and down play possible. If you have threads showing beneath the nut it isn't on far enough. Regards Jamie Howton
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#8. Re: [E36M3] H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 16:34:06 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? Som, 3mm should be OK. I have run with as little as 2mm. When you add more camber with the camber plates, the tire and strut move together, so it shouldn't matter what your static camber is, you would still have 3mm. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:39:05 -0800 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: H&R Coilovers... spacers needed? > > Hello Group, > > I just finished installing the H&R coilover kit on my '98 coupe. > Installed > the coilovers, new RTABs, new RSMs, and front KMAC camber caster plates. > I > remember reading some people say they were able to use the kit without > spacers and some people said they needed spacers. > > I have the stock staggered M-contour setup, and I have all of maybe 3mm of > space between my tire and the front struts now. I have the plates set to > full negative camber (without going to the "race setup" where the whole > plate > goes in at a different angle) and this is all the room I have. I don't > suppose this will be enough space, will it? How much can I expect the > camber > to change during hard driving? What size spacers will I want? 10mm? > 15mm? > Does the quality of spacers make a difference or can I just find the > cheapest > spacers available?
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#9. RE: Coughing Engine? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 10:23:15 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Coughing Engine? Jonathan, I had similar symptoms before my Crank Position sensor went out. Car kept hiccupping (more with time) until the CEL came on. Replaced it with a $90 new one and problem solved. Cant say if this may be the same for you but I went and installed all new spark plugs and swapped all 6 coils from my friend's M3 and the problem remained. Good luck Regards, Ahmad -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2004 19:23:09 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Coughing Engine? Odd thing has happened on my drive to and from work today and yesterday. Other than this, the car has been running fine and strong. As the car gets to idle, it will sometimes cough (hard enough that I can feel it with the radio on) and then stumble for about 5-10 seconds. It's returned to normal after that so far, but I'm wondering what I should be prepared for. The car is a '99 with 135K miles, sharked, intaked (both for the last 100K+ miles), driven daily and used heavily on track. The most recent addition to the car is the UUC Stage 2 flywheel/clutch, but that's been in for about 4K miles. Thoughts? Jonathan L.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] how many o2 sensors? - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 12:21:31 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] how many o2 sensors? > Here's the diagram and parts list, showing the exhaust system: > > http://tinyurl.com/3hw4e > > While the diagram only shows two O2 sensors, the parts listing shows that > the quantity required is TWO for each. So, the car definitely requires > FOUR, two pre-cat and two post-cat. > > I wouldn't trust a mechanic if he's either: 1) mis-reading the repair > manual/diagnostic/computer output, or 2) has never looked at an OBDII E36 M3 > to know that it has four O2 sensors. Ok guys, thanks for all the info on O2 sensors, I definetly know way more about them now than ever! Haha, haven't talked to my mechanic yet but after looking at this diagram, but I see how he looked at it wrong. As for not trusting him, no I definetly do, I mean he been working with Racing Dynamics on all sorts of prototype parts (Gary Martin, Martin Motorsports, Alexandria VA). I am just curious as to why he said 2 O2s instead of 4... he couldn't remember off the top of his head (he works mostly with ODB1 cars that have 1 O2) and I'm sure he just looked at that diagram wrong (he might not have even looked at quanity, he said the picture shows only two) so I'll double check to see what happened, might have been as simple as that. Anyways, thanks for everyone's input on this, always glad to know there is a solid E36 M3 support group out there to back me up when needed! ted