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#1. Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 22:11:11 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs It sounds like you have an intake system leak -- air is getting into the engine by bypassing the AFM. Could be a hose fell off somewhere, a cap not on tight, a leaking gasket. From what you describe, it's a Macro problem, not a micro problem, and so it should be pretty easy to see. >The green M3 (1997 M3/4) started to surge from ~1000 to 3500 RPMs in a >rhythmic fashion >on the way home from work today. > >It was almost like someone might be revving the engine waiting at a light, >but it was happening >of it's own accord while in gear (causing the car to speed up erratically) >and it continued >to do the surging if taken out of gear. > >After pulling to the side of the road, Dave turned off the car, hoping >that this condition would >stop. It took several tries to start the car because it would stall >immediately after turning over. >Dave then had to modulate the throttle to keep the car running, but then >the surging started >immediately. Fortunately, he has a relatively short commute, since he -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs - from Hans Batra
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 01:59:38 -0500 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs Margaret, I concur with Andrew. A vacuum leak of some kind. Check all clamps, vacuum lines, etc. You can also use a piece of rubber hose to act as a makeshift stethoscope and perhaps isolate the leak by its sound. Good luck! Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 1:16 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs > Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 22:11:11 -0800 > From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs > > It sounds like you have an intake system leak -- air is getting into the > engine by bypassing the AFM. > > Could be a hose fell off somewhere, a cap not on tight, a leaking gasket. > > From what you describe, it's a Macro problem, not a micro problem, and so > it should be pretty easy to see. > > >>The green M3 (1997 M3/4) started to surge from ~1000 to 3500 RPMs in a >>rhythmic fashion >>on the way home from work today. >> >>It was almost like someone might be revving the engine waiting at a light, >>but it was happening >>of it's own accord while in gear (causing the car to speed up erratically) >>and it continued >>to do the surging if taken out of gear. >> >>After pulling to the side of the road, Dave turned off the car, hoping >>that this condition would >>stop. It took several tries to start the car because it would stall >>immediately after turning over. >>Dave then had to modulate the throttle to keep the car running, but then >>the surging started >>immediately. Fortunately, he has a relatively short commute, since he > > > -- > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: flywheel/clutch options for track was:Clutch/LWT Flywheel - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 09:19:01 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: flywheel/clutch options for track was:Clutch/LWT Flywheel Insights Wanted >Ok, so we are covering the lightweight flywheel for the street. What are >the opinions of one for the track (track only car). I was thinking of the >Ultra lite kit from JB Racing/MPD (unless somebody has a better/more cost >effective solution- that is question 1). Question 2- any wisdom on 5.5 vs >7.25 vs 7.875 inch clutches? Yes I realize smaller is better, but I really >don't want a super on/off clutch that makes getting the car on/off the >trailer difficult and moving around at slow speeds while not on track. I believe that's what you would end up with. My buddy Jack's car (formerly Larry's car for those on the list that crew/ed for him, Hi Bob!) has one of those super light setups and you guys are complaining about a rattle, ha! you should hear this car. We've never had a problem getting it in the trailer, the one annoying time that BMW CR was paddocked in the grass at Mid-Ohio (Grand Am support race) it was difficult to back the car out of our spot due to the wet grass, slick tires, and this clutch setup. These things IMO are really meant for race cars, this car will spin the tires in 3rd gear and the throttle is very sensitive. Yeah going thru the paddock is also kind of a pain and for the most part you end up going a little bit faster than they'd like you to. I drove a student's twin turbo Lingenfelter C5 Vette at an autox once and he had some sort of 4 puck/6 puck clutch. The thing was annoying at low speeds and for launching, you could either vibrate the hell out of the drivetrain or else rev it up and spin the tires as you launch (we got warnings about this) but you couldn't avoid it, this I would call on/off big time. Once you are at speed though I wouldn't want anything else, wow! Jack's E36 is about a ~350hp Euro motor, the Vette according to the owner had about 600hp the day I drove it with the boost turned down. If you're going racing with the car I could see going with one of these, if it's for schools then it's kind of overkill. Carlos '88 325is MPD ltw flywheel installed '93 325is MPD ltw flywheel on the shelf
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#4. Re: [E36M3] CPO or no? - from Robert Manger
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 09:34:27 -0500 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CPO or no? Jamie, thanks for the info on the car. I hear what you are saying about buying new, its quite the kick in the ding ding. the funny thing is that I have found that the autos sell for less money on the dealers lot's than the manuals, go figure, and a 2002 with awd is in the low $30's at CPO dealers. Rob- Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 17:40:08 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CPO or no? Here's some random thoughts based upon almost 60K miles: I really like my 330i 5 Spd. It handles the Chicago snow very well with snow tires installed. Personally I wouldn't bother with the extra expense or weight penalty of the Xi. My previous car was an Audi A4 with Quattro which IMO made almost no difference in the winter over the 330i The E46 is a stiffer chassis than the E36 but seems like a much more comfortable car than the E36 but it isn't as fast as my modified 95 M3. I have the sport package and like the SP seats a great deal. The only problems I have had with the car have both been repaired under warranty and are: Xenon headlight computer failure (~$1000), and the sunroof liner came off its tracks. I replaced the suspension with H&R coilovers/UUC sway bars because the stock sport shocks were getting a little rubbery at 25K miles and the dealer wouldn't replace them saying that they were still within spec. I just replaced the RTABs at 56K miles. I installed a UUC short shift kit at about 5K miles. The stock SP tires Continentals lasted 30K miles. The throttle pedal is pretty non-linear in feel, it's tough to modulate. The clutch feel is almost non-existant, it is hard to shift smoothly at slower speeds (although it's better now than when new). My car has every option, Sport Package, Cold weather package, Premium package, Bi-xenons, Harmon Kardon, Nav system, CD changer, Alarm, Split folding rear seats, 18" M-V spoke wheels. I paid $43K for it in 2002. I was talking to my local dealer last week about trading it in on an 05 M3 and they offered me $18,500 in trade for it. This is well below KBB, they gave me the old song and dance about no automatic and it being the wrong color (it's Steel Blue Metallic with Black leather interior). All that being said, it's one of the best cars that I have owned. Just don't buy a new one the depreciation will make you cry. Regards Jamie Howton ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.
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#5. Re: Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 09:39:29 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs on 12/2/04 12:36 AM, "Cheng, Margaret" <Margaret.Cheng@kp.org> wrote: > The green M3 (1997 M3/4) started to surge from ~1000 to 3500 RPMs in a > rhythmic fashion on the way home from work today. Has your Check Engine Light come on yet? (It will...) When it does the OBD-II code will help. Some possibilities: - Vacuum leak (check vac hoses, clamps on intake) - Failed idle control valve - Failed AFM. Neil 96 M3
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#6. ASC/ABS Weirdness - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 08:52:30 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: ASC/ABS Weirdness Question for the group, A coupe of days ago, the ASC and ABS dash lights came on while I was driving on the expressway for no apparent reason. I wasn't stopped at the time nor were the conditions wet or icy. After some shopping I returned to the car and the warning lights have not come on since then. What gives? Anyone else seen this behavior? Should I be worried? thanks, Mel
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... - from scott noltensmeier
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 07:02:36 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Folks, Is this the procedure -- its seems strange... Preparation 1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood. 2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code-Learning Mode 3. Open the trunk and leave it open. 4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat. 5. Close the driver's door. 6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. DO NOT START THE ENGINE The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds. The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds. Registering/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat) 8. Close driver's door. 9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes. Exiting Code-Learning Mode 11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice. 14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation. It is possible for the system to memorize a total of four different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into memory, the oldest code in memory is automatically deleted. If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from memory, you could initialize the ID code from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from system memory. scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:21:37 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier Subject: Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Key-less Remote Question -- need to replace mine... -- The link that connects it to my key-chain broke. Where and how much to replace it? How do I get the frequencies to match? Thanks... Scott, E36M3 96' 2D ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 10:32:54 -0500 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... That's the one I used, yes it works. I programmed two replacement fobs for my 97. Yes the procedure is that "strange". You'll have to likely do a couple dry runs first to get the timing and familiarity down with the procedure, but it does work! Patrick Goss 97 m3/4 -----Original Message----- From: scott noltensmeier [mailto:snoltens@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 10:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 07:02:36 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Folks, Is this the procedure -- its seems strange... Preparation 1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood. 2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code-Learning Mode 3. Open the trunk and leave it open. 4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat. 5. Close the driver's door. 6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. DO NOT START THE ENGINE The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds. The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds. Registering/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat) 8. Close driver's door. 9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes. Exiting Code-Learning Mode 11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice. 14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation. It is possible for the system to memorize a total of four different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into memory, the oldest code in memory is automatically deleted. If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from memory, you could initialize the ID code from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from system memory. scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:21:37 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier Subject: Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Key-less Remote Question -- need to replace mine... -- The link that connects it to my key-chain broke. Where and how much to replace it? How do I get the frequencies to match? Thanks... Scott, E36M3 96' 2D ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 12:21:36 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... You forgot step 15. Place transmitter in a plastic bag. Take into driveway, swing it over your head and cluck like a chicken. ;-) Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: scott noltensmeier [mailto:snoltens@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 10:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 07:02:36 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Folks, Is this the procedure -- its seems strange... Preparation 1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood. 2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code-Learning Mode 3. Open the trunk and leave it open. 4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat. 5. Close the driver's door. 6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. DO NOT START THE ENGINE The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds. The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds. Registering/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat) 8. Close driver's door. 9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes. Exiting Code-Learning Mode 11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice. 14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation. It is possible for the system to memorize a total of four different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into memory, the oldest code in memory is automatically deleted. If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from memory, you could initialize the ID code from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from system memory. scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> wrote: Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 11:21:37 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier Subject: Keyless Remote Question -- need to replace mine... Key-less Remote Question -- need to replace mine... -- The link that connects it to my key-chain broke. Where and how much to replace it? How do I get the frequencies to match? Thanks... Scott, E36M3 96' 2D ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] ASC/ABS Weirdness - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 10:46:39 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ASC/ABS Weirdness Quoting Mel Silva <melsilva@mindspring.com>: > Question for the group, > A coupe of days ago, the ASC and ABS dash lights came on while I was driving > on the expressway for no apparent reason. I wasn't stopped at the time nor > were the conditions wet or icy. After some shopping I returned to the car > and the warning lights have not come on since then. What gives? Anyone > else seen this behavior? Should I be worried? Search the archives, we've been over this :-) I made a comprehensive post on this topic, with part number needed. It's a fault with the brake pedal travel sensor (or something like that). Needs to be replaced. ~$100 in parts and easy to DIY - sensor is on the outside of the brake booster below/beside the fluid reservoir. Cheers, Jim Bassett ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.