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#1. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 15:35:02 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... If the hexagonal hole is already mis-shapen/stripped, your only choice is to drill it out. I usually soak these with liquid wrench overnight and then use an impact wrench (or impact screwdriver) to loosen the screw. You basically get one shot at it, once the it is "screwed-up" you're done for. Regards Jamie Howton
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Clunk from the front, squeak from the back... - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:41:04 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clunk from the front, squeak from the back... Quoting Som Naderi <som@dimensionracing.com>: > Could new RSMs make the noise? They shouldn't. > I mean... was there something I should have > lubricated in there? There shouldn't be. Glad I could help :-) Jim Bassett ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:45:31 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... At 03:14 PM 12/14/2004 -0600, Gaudio, Stefano wrote: >Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:11:35 -0500 >torqued to 12lb/ft but it's more like 100lb/ft+. Not sure if it's due >to the fact that being on driver side it tightens ever time I accelerate >or just the fact that it may be corroded but my 6mm hex key has lost >most of the grip (the inside of the bolt is about to become a F... >circle). I have always used a hand impact driver on these and have never had a problem. If you use an air impact, it will most likely break the head off the locator. I got my hand impact driver at Sears. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:45:06 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... Mine was rusted on solid. I drilled it out. It was very easy to drill out, and the dealer stocked these. I think it was less than a buck. Don't waste any more time. Get the drill out. Put a new one in. Chris > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:11:35 -0500 > From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <Stefano.Gaudio@NERA.com> > Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... > > I replaced my front rotors this w/e on my e36 M3 and came across a bolt > that just won't come off. It's the locator bolt (see fig 6 on > http://hock.net/m-rotors.php ) on the driver side. It's supposed to be > torqued to 12lb/ft but it's more like 100lb/ft+. Not sure if it's due > to the fact that being on driver side it tightens ever time I accelerate > or just the fact that it may be corroded but my 6mm hex key has lost > most of the grip (the inside of the bolt is about to become a F... > circle). > > I used wd40 and a couple of other penetrating oils tapped it to have the > metal vibrate and loosen up but it just won't give. Anything else I > should try before drilling the sucker out? I really rather not!
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#5. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:53:24 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... Quoting "Gaudio, Stefano" <Stefano.Gaudio@NERA.com>: > or just the fact that it may be corroded I'm voting corrosion (BTDT on one of the race car's rotors recently - right before an event, of course :-) But I'm blaming MarkD, as my S&K bit somehow got swapped for his Crapsman one (j/k)) > I used wd40 and a couple of other penetrating oils tapped it to have the > metal vibrate and loosen up but it just won't give. Anything else I > should try before drilling the sucker out? I really rather not! My mechanic took all of 2 seconds to remove the offending set screw with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90881 and a good, squared Stahlwille(sp?) hex bit. Have a try with that. Cheers, Jim Bassett - thinks Santa needs to stop at Harbor Freight before heading to our house :-) ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:08:40 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... Couldn't the locator bolt just be left off? The stud will keep the rotor in place when it is screwed into the hub. Seems like that would eliminate any future issues. Only downside would be that it might be harder to change wheels, although I'd suspect that the rotor would still attach itself to the hub anyhow. Plus it would save all that weight that's sitting on the rotating assembly. ;-) Jason --- cteague@cox.net wrote: > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:45:06 -0500 > From: <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody > help... > > Mine was rusted on solid. > > I drilled it out. It was very easy to drill out, > and the dealer stocked these. I think it was less > than a buck. Don't waste any more time. Get the > drill out. Put a new one in. > > Chris > > > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:11:35 -0500 > > From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <Stefano.Gaudio@NERA.com> > > Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... > > > > I replaced my front rotors this w/e on my e36 M3 > and came across a bolt > > that just won't come off. It's the locator bolt > (see fig 6 on > > http://hock.net/m-rotors.php ) on the driver side. > It's supposed to be > > torqued to 12lb/ft but it's more like 100lb/ft+. > Not sure if it's due > > to the fact that being on driver side it tightens > ever time I accelerate > > or just the fact that it may be corroded but my > 6mm hex key has lost > > most of the grip (the inside of the bolt is about > to become a F... > > circle). > > > > I used wd40 and a couple of other penetrating oils > tapped it to have the > > metal vibrate and loosen up but it just won't > give. Anything else I > > should try before drilling the sucker out? I > really rather not! > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs--The ANSWER! - from Jay G
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 15:28:08 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Surging from 1000 to 3500 RPMs--The ANSWER! doh! sorry for giving you the wrong info andrew...thanx for clearing that up neil...i always thought the one on the side of the radiator was the coolant sensor...learn something new everyday... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 15:16:34 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Nope, that's not it either. The one on the passenger side of the radiator is > the dual temperature switch for the auxiliary electric fan. > > The coolant temp sensor used by the ECU is on the intake side of the head, > right at the front under the top engine cover. There's a photo in Bentley on > page 130-18.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! - from Dave Swingle
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 21:43:24 -0600 From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@dmcnews.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! Head down to Sears and buy a Hand Impact Driver. If this doesn't do it, you're drilling. Dave S -------------------- Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:11:35 -0500 From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <Stefano.Gaudio@NERA.com> Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... I replaced my front rotors this w/e on my e36 M3 and came across a bolt that just won't come off. It's the locator bolt
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#9. [E36M3] Spring querry - from ROWERS41@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 22:50:45 EST From: ROWERS41@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Spring querry I have a 97 M3 with bilstien sports and H&Rs. The PO got the package from Turner. I am getting some minor coil binding (there is a thin line of rust on the tops and bottoms of all the coils) and after my last track event I checked the dumdum between the coils and it was nearly cut in two. I am considering going to a heavier spring, even a factory one. And in Va the inspectors can get really anal about springs. I have the stock swaysbars and am pretty happy with the neutrality of the suspension. I am considering going to the euro spring or the lightweight spring, but am looking for some guidence. Thanks, Steve Rowe
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#10. Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 23:37:27 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... Stefano, I had a similar situation a while ago.. I used a star head bit that was a little larger than the 6mm key, and hammered it in, and used that to remove the bolt... Good luck. Mo -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:11:35 -0500 From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <Stefano.Gaudio@NERA.com> Subject: BAD BAD BOLT!!! Somebody help... I replaced my front rotors this w/e on my e36 M3 and came across a bolt that just won't come off. It's the locator bolt (see fig 6 on http://hock.net/m-rotors.php ) on the driver side. It's supposed to be torqued to 12lb/ft but it's more like 100lb/ft+. Not sure if it's due to the fact that being on driver side it tightens ever time I accelerate or just the fact that it may be corroded but my 6mm hex key has lost most of the grip (the inside of the bolt is about to become a F... circle). I used wd40 and a couple of other penetrating oils tapped it to have the metal vibrate and loosen up but it just won't give. Anything else I should try before drilling the sucker out? I really rather not! Thx Stefano '98 M3 w 1 new front Zimmerman Drilled rotor w hawks hp+
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#11. Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! - from jason
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 20:37:36 -0800 From: jason <jason@doomba.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BAD BAD BOLT!!! i'm just curious. can you heat that puppy up with a propane torch and hammer a slightly too big hex key in there? my favorite fix is to just weld some sort of sacrificial socket thing in there with a mig welder and then impact or whatever off. if your in bay area in it only takes about 2 or 3 seconds :) jason