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#1. Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 04:29:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires Heh. Well, I'm not sure how you managed to attach anything to the factory lug wrench to get it to add leverage. You should go to Sears and buy a 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" 6 point 17mm socket. That should help remove all but the most stubborn lug bolts. The breaker bar will allow you to slide a cheater bar on top to give additional leverage. Last but not least, get a nice 50 gallon compressor, plumb it to the garage, make sure you have good fat lines to the garage to carry the air volume, get a IR impact hammer and bust those bolts off! ;) *BRAP* *BRAP* *BRAP* Chester --- Jason Olin <jtolin64@yahoo.com> wrote: > How do you loosen really tight lug nuts? Or should I not give up and start > using my one good foot that's left?? Or should I build a platform and drop > heavy weights onto the wrench? I'm sure there's a physicist out there who > could tell me exactly how high the platform needs to be and the size of the > mass. =====
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#2. RE: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:01:26 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires In addition to Chester's suggestions, have a nice heart to heart with the guys who tightened them. They did it once to me, a shop I'd used for years. I took the car there, had them loosen the lugs, explained about torque sticks and torque wrenches, and offered never to come back. At the time with 2 kids at home and 5 cars, that wasn't something they wanted. Now the only time they see the tires is for new ones or flat repairs, and they bought their own torque stick. Carey -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 7:35 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 04:29:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires Heh. Well, I'm not sure how you managed to attach anything to the factory lug wrench to get it to add leverage. You should go to Sears and buy a 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" 6 point 17mm socket. That should help remove all but the most stubborn lug bolts. The breaker bar will allow you to slide a cheater bar on top to give additional leverage. Last but not least, get a nice 50 gallon compressor, plumb it to the garage, make sure you have good fat lines to the garage to carry the air volume, get a IR impact hammer and bust those bolts off! ;) *BRAP* *BRAP* *BRAP* Chester --- Jason Olin <jtolin64@yahoo.com> wrote: > How do you loosen really tight lug nuts? Or should I not give up and start > using my one good foot that's left?? Or should I build a platform and drop > heavy weights onto the wrench? I'm sure there's a physicist out there who > could tell me exactly how high the platform needs to be and the size of the > mass. ===== ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. Re: [E36M3] head units and connections - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 05:22:58 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] head units and connections Their speakers are pretty bright. Tend to sound nasally. Lots of sizzle. We sell Kenwood, Alpine, Kicker, Eclipse and Boston Acoustics speakers. I would pretty much rate them in the order listed. Best being Boston or maybe Eclipse, depending on which Boston and the application. You should really audition the speakers before you decide. Take a CD you're familiar with. But, be willing to listen to what the salesperson uses to demo as well. Many customers' favorites are very poorly recorded CDs. When I demo, I use CDs that are engineered/recorded very well and demonstrate the full range of music. That kind of recording will excorsize (sp?) the speakers and hi-light their weak and strong points. Jay > Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 13:04:48 -0800 > From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] head units and connections > > > Does anyone have any informed opinions on Alpine's speakers? > > Reed > > > > Buy the Alpine 9835, use its internal amp and spring for a > > front set of Boston, Infinity, or similar midpriced separates > > and it'll kill the stock system.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] head units and connections - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 05:35:19 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] head units and connections Using aftermarket speakers, components or not, with the factory amp is a bad idea. The factory amp has built-in crossovers engineered to work with the factory drivers. The crossover points and outputs of the amp are matched to each of the OEM drivers. Those are not your typical drivers. I believe they are 3 ohm. The simple answer is.......if you want to upgrade or replace the speakers, you must do them all and replace the factory amp too. Or, if using coaxials, you can run the aftermarket speakers off deck power. Jay > Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 22:33:53 -0500 > From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] head units and connections > > If one were to get a set of component speakers to replace HK front > speakers can they be wired to the existing speaker outs from the > built-in amp? > > One of my original door-mounted speakers stopped working and another > buzzed terribly (blown i guess?). I had removed the speakers from one > side during troubleshooting and it wasn't very difficult. I went to the > local Crutchfield store and got some moderately priced Infinity > component speakers installed. > > In addition to breaking every panel imaginable during the installation > the new speakers sound horrible. I need to take it back and have them > fix it but not sure what to tell them to do differently. Plus I'm > scared to death they'll break something else if they get back in there, > not that there's much left undamaged :-) I did let them know of the > damage and poor sound and they told me the life-time warranty would > cover all that - just haven't been back yet to resolve it. > > I'm thinking speaker outs to the component crossover may be a problem > since the signal is already filtered at the amp? I haven't looked but > think maybe they used only one of the outputs. i.e. if they used the 5 > 1/4" output I'd guess there's be just about no signal for the tweeter to > use and vice-versa. I suggested they bypass the crossover but they were > afraid the frequencies wouldn't match the new speakers. They stuck some > sort of inline filter on the tweeters after they sounded like they were > going to explode - (clipping maybe is the term?). > I wouldn't mind getting in there and fixing it myself if I knew which > way to go. Any recommendations? > > thx, > marty > > jakeadavis@comcast.net wrote: > > >Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 16:09:55 +0000 > >From: jakeadavis@comcast.net > >Subject: head units and connections > > > ><snip> > >Actually, the stock speakers are so cruddy, even modestly priced separates outperform the stock speakers by such a margin that I belive it's worthwhile. But the speaker install can be time consuming done on your own, or fairly costly done by a competent installer. > >Buy the Alpine 9835, use its internal amp and spring for a front set of Boston, Infinity, or similar midpriced separates and it'll kill the stock system. > >
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#5. Re: A-pillar gauges and cooling questions... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:09:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: A-pillar gauges and cooling questions... on 12/17/04 7:34 AM, "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> wrote: > You know, I still feel like this car is only a few years old or so. This > has equal parts to do with it not feeling like it's almost 2005 (sheesh, > halfway through the first decade of the new millenia!) and the way the car > actually feels. 7 years sounds so... old! But now that you mention it, no, > I wouldn't even think of it. :) Yeah, imagine how I feel driving a 96! I really can't think about it as an older car, and yet... Slightly OT but following that thought, we've recently ordered a new Mini Cooper S as a daily driver to supplement the M3. The idea is to avoid winter driving and limit the miles put on the M3 so that it'll last "forever." Optioned with almost everything - now including a limited slip diff for $500, woohoo! - the Mini came out to over $27K, so it's not quite the cheap and cheerful fun it used to be. Still, not too bad. Does anyone know of a good Mini list? I'd really prefer a mailing list like this rather than a web forum. Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child MB 300E - 235K miles and on its way out 525iT - Looking for a nice example with low miles and all options 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell
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#6. RE: Re[2]: [E36M3] cd changer dead, need new head unit advice - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 07:24:22 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: Re[2]: [E36M3] cd changer dead, need new head unit advice This was the day *before* I took delivery of the car. It had literaly just rolled off the transporter! I thought it a nice touch. $55k car, 0.55c floormat :) Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Jeremy Conners [mailto:jeremy.conners@comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:39 PM To: 'Graeme Weston-Lewis'; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: Re[2]: [E36M3] cd changer dead, need new head unit advice nice floor mats...what, are you saving the car for someone else? do you have a cover on your couch at home? <jk> to each his own. Jeremy // -----Original Message----- // From: Graeme Weston-Lewis [mailto:gweston@lsil.com] // Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 10:15 AM // To: E36M3 // Subject: RE: Re[2]: [E36M3] cd changer dead, need new head unit advice // // Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 08:05:08 -0700 // From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> // Subject: RE: Re[2]: [E36M3] cd changer dead, need new head unit advice // // That looks familiar - except for the name above the display! // http://gwl.rmsolo.org/Boxster/pages/P5010430.html // // I can tell you the hew of orange is way, way different! // // Graeme
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#7. Re: Back Seat Replacement - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:30:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Back Seat Replacement on 12/17/04 7:34 AM, ChuckBrazeau@aol.com wrote: > You might try building something yourself... take a look at this thread on > bimmerforums.com > _http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140850_ Unfortunately you can't download the picture without being a Bimmerforums member, and reading the "contributions" to that thread reminds me why I don't want to be one. Now that the roll bar makes the M3's rear uninhabitable I've occasionally thought about doing something about the back seat. In Europe Porsche offers an upholstered cargo shelf instead of the joke seats they put in the US models, and that would be good in my car. The roll bar also makes it impossible to fit more than two tires back there, whereas before I could carry three or four. Eliminating the bulk of the seat cushions might restore the carrying capacity. The only thing is that I'd absolutely insist on having a fully finished, factory-looking result, and I'm not sure I'd be able to achieve that. Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child MB 300E - 235K miles and on its way out 525iT - Looking for a nice example with low miles and all options 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell
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#8. Re: oil change interval - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:59:52 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: oil change interval Thats one nasty looking engine. FWIW, I changed the valve cover gasket at about 140,000 miles and my engine was also as clean as a whistle inside. I use regular 'ol Castrol GTX and change it frequently. > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 09:14:57 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Not for the over-sensitive viewer > > This link was posted on the UUC Digest: > http://www.justracing.com/bmw/viewtopic.php?t=21 > Jeez... > > For comparison my car has roughly similar mileage, but with frequent Mobil 1 > oil changes, and is clean as a whistle inside. > > Neil > 96 M3 - Bastard child >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] head units and connections - from marty
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:33:09 -0500 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] head units and connections Thanks Jay. I was afraid a new amp might be one of the choices. Then I probably should get a new head unit and everything else. Problem is I just want a decent sounding system and don't want to spend a lot. I'd rather spend that sort of money on suspension bits and various maintenance items. I thought of getting replacement BMW/HK speakers but they're pretty darned expensive and I thought aftermarket speakers, even though less expensive, would sound better (of course that's what the Crutchfield folks told me too). That's probably very true if done properly. I've seen many comments about how crappy the stock speakers are - does that include the HK ones? If not, might a decent option be just to replace the two broken HK speakers? Sounds like maybe 1) HK replacements or 2) new coaxials (not components?) driven from head unit speaker outs are my cheapy options? I suppose with the latter I'd completely bypass the amp, at least for the front, and the groovy little hi-fi swittch would no longer function. Would I need to switch the rears to deck power too so they run at relatively same power as fronts? I'm thinking option 1 may be my best choice for the sake of simplicity and cost. Is there anything that makes it a bad choice? Is a driver the same thing as a speaker? Maybe speaker is the colloquial term and driver is correct, technical, term? Or maybe if you combine some number of drivers into a box or assembly then you have a speaker? Sorry, I'm obviously not an audiophile :) thx, marty Jay W. Hudson wrote: >Using aftermarket speakers, components or not, with the factory amp is a bad >idea. The factory amp has built-in crossovers engineered to work with the >factory drivers. The crossover points and outputs of the amp are matched to >each of the OEM drivers. Those are not your typical drivers. I believe >they are 3 ohm. > >The simple answer is.......if you want to upgrade or replace the speakers, >you must do them all and replace the factory amp too. Or, if using >coaxials, you can run the aftermarket speakers off deck power. > >Jay > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires - from David Ripton
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:09:18 -0800 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Stupid human tricks; changing to winter tires On 2004.12.17 06:34:43 +0000, Chester Wong wrote: > Heh. Well, I'm not sure how you managed to attach anything to the factory lug > wrench to get it to add leverage. You should go to Sears and buy a 1/2" > breaker bar and a 1/2" 6 point 17mm socket. That should help remove all but > the most stubborn lug bolts. The breaker bar will allow you to slide a cheater > bar on top to give additional leverage. I actually broke a cheap Craftsman socket while trying to remove a hyper-tightened lug bolt with a cheater bar. Sears has a nice warranty, but I suspect the replacement socket would have broken the same way, so I didn't try again. What worked for me was the Facom 17mm lug wrench. About $20 at the Ultimate Garage. (The rubber grip slides off, to fit a cheater bar.) -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net