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#1. Re: [E36M3] What alternator pulley do I have? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 11:07:40 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What alternator pulley do I have? If you're trying to identify what type of alternator you have, why are you looking at part numbers on the pullies? You should see a label on the alternator itself and there ya go... Chester --- Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> wrote: > No real markings (Bosch or Valeo) found on the pullies, here is what > he took off them: > water pump pulley has 115111730554 W+P > crank pulley has 11231736358 W+P =====
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#2. Re: [E36M3] What alternator pulley do I have? - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 14:15:11 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What alternator pulley do I have? Doh! A few minutes after I sent my message, I realized, wait, why didn't the auto body guys check the alternator and not the pulley itself? Called them up and they said they would check. Guess there was some misunderstanding there on their part. Sorry for getting a little ahead of myself there... and for being a tad bit worried that I had no idea what type I had, hence the hasty post. Thank goodness it is Friday, looks my head needs a break! ted > If you're trying to identify what type of alternator you have, why are you > looking at part numbers on the pullies? You should see a label on the > alternator itself and there ya go...
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#3. Re: Key hole delete - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 14:36:33 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Key hole delete Those of us with early production, low-tech cars are wondering how you would get into a locked car... Chip > Also, consider deleting the key holes :) I had the euro part numbers added to > the US parts database when I was repairing my car so the surrounds without > keyholes are available to order here. The price is negligible...$5 each or > something. The gasket....likewise pretty damn cheap. In order to delete the > keyhole, you'll have to remove the door handle from the door, punch out the pin > that holds the cylinder in place and then it will slide right out. Ron Stygar > found plugs that fit perfectly into the hole at his local hardware store. > Also, I dremelled out the punched part of the pin that the handle pivots on to > remove the handle from the whole assembly. This way the handle could be > painted off the car and out of the assembly. I send my pins to Ron to have his > drill and tap it for the reinstall.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 11:50:20 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete What early production cars are you talking of? At least for my car, I can use the trunk keyhole to unlock and lock the car should the alarm fob not work, etc..... Chester --- Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> wrote: > Those of us with early production, low-tech cars are wondering how you > would get into a locked car... > > Chip =====
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 14:49:30 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete Quoting Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com>: > What early production cars are you talking of? At least for my car, I can > use > the trunk keyhole to unlock and lock the car should the alarm fob not work, > etc..... Just FYI, the 1993 325is does NOT have this capability (which surprised me a bit, since the M3 does). Sounds like the operation of the central locking system was changed at some point during the E36 run(?). Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 15:00:30 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete On my M3 and 325 if I double lock the doors, neither the trunk and passenger door locks will unlock the car. Not sure if using the remote if the trunk will unlock the doors or not since the remote should double lock the doors. Will try that later. Carey -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 2:54 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 11:50:20 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete What early production cars are you talking of? At least for my car, I can use the trunk keyhole to unlock and lock the car should the alarm fob not work, etc..... Chester --- Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> wrote: > Those of us with early production, low-tech cars are wondering how you > would get into a locked car... > > Chip ===== ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete - from sam langley
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Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2005 16:57:54 -0500 From: sam langley <samrl@triad.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete Carey Probst wrote: >Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 15:00:30 -0500 >From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Key hole delete > >On my M3 and 325 if I double lock the doors, neither the trunk and >passenger door locks will unlock the car. > >Not sure if using the remote if the trunk will unlock the doors or not >since the remote should double lock the doors. Will try that later. > > I think he means, what remote?? My 95 didn't come with one sam >Carey > > >
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#8. Re: What alternator pulley do I have? - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 18:29:19 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: What alternator pulley do I have? Ted, The brand of your alternator pulley should match the brand of your alternator.... On the Bosch alternator the brand and other info is on the side of the plastic cover on the back of the alternator (the cover the duct runs to). Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 On Jan 7, 2005, at 2:03 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 13:44:11 -0500 > From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> > Subject: What alternator pulley do I have? > > Hey guys! So as you know my car was involved in an accident and I was > going to throw on underdrive pullies, but we can't figure out what > alternator pulley I have. Only numbers we could get are: > > No real markings (Bosch or Valeo) found on the pullies, here is what > he took off them: > water pump pulley has 115111730554 W+P > crank pulley has 11231736358 W+P > > Both have the BMW logo. > > > Any ideas??? > > Thanks! > > ted
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#9. Electric drive for water/ps pumps? - from Walter J
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Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2005 00:20:57 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Electric drive for water/ps pumps? Any geek engineer types bored? This is admittedly a brainchild fostered by the need to do something to my car when it really needs nothing at all... or if it does need something - its probably more likely control arms. But I was thinking of something I can build rather than just pony up some cash and wait on Brown for. So... I get around to thinking about lightweight components and the somewhat tepid gains from using lightweight/underdriven pulleys... and thought about it some more. Why not go all "racecar" and drive the stuff off a single electric motor simulating say 2000 engine RPM (or whatever the pump spec really is for optimal flow)? Its really not all that hard to work up a DC motor and controller to keep a constant speed driving a belt to the water and ps pump. Fashioning a mount and drive pulley is reasonable too... Neither of these items need to be driven at engine speed (or be variable speed) to perform. Hell, the ps pump works just fine in its highest load condition - around 1200 RPM when parallel parking and its only where it is so it can be near the belt. Now, this is where the thinking gets tricky... how much additional counter-productive load will I add to the alternator... and how much load will I relieve from the drivetrain? I believe that the gain could be fairly significant assuming the two pumps could be driven at a fairly low RPM and held constant. Suppose I find the load of driving the combined pumps by just rerouting the belt to my new electric motor, calculate HP/Torque and plot it for the RPM curve. I can simulate the gain using the same motor vs. a constant RPM - the net profit should increase as RPM rises... and more power anywhere past midrange would be really nice at the track... Anybody want to ponder this further or should I shaddup and have another cactus juice? -- Walter
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#10. Where to Buy Long/Thin E8 Torx Socket in SF Bay Area? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:49:00 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Where to Buy Long/Thin E8 Torx Socket in SF Bay Area? Hi All. Can anyone point me to a place that would carry a deep and/or thin E8 Torx socket? 3/8" or 1/4" drive OK, it just needs to fit into a hole that's around 3/4" deep. I'm almost finished pulling the head of my E36 M3, only to find that one of the head-to-timing-cover bolts is way down deep, and my normal Torx sockets won't reach it. Thanks, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com