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#1. RE: Ideas for Demagnetizing M3 Tappets? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 23:28:17 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Ideas for Demagnetizing M3 Tappets? Andrew asked: >Hi All. > >As part of my M3 head rebuild I've discovered that the tappets have >become slightly magnetized. Given the apparent lack of attention that >BMW gave my engine in terms of cleanliness during assembly, this is a >bit worrisome. > >Anybody have an idea on how I can demagnetize these puppies? The're >about 1.5" in diameter. > >Most of the "hand" demagnetizers are too small and are more suited >for screwdrivers, etc. > >Thanks, > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com You need a good sized watch demagnetizer. I have one laying around doing mostly nothing if you want to pay shipping both ways, or check your phone book for an old time watch/clock shop - they'll have one. These ones use a collapsing field to demagnetize - they charge a big capacitor then discharge it through a coil - which has your watch/clock/tappet laying on top of it. Ping me directly if you want to borrow it.. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/
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#2. Re: Guibo or? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 08:53:36 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Guibo or? on 1/11/05 11:54 PM, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > Don't think so either, except the M-Coupe did have a factory 'short shift' > (popular swap into the E36 series is the M Coupe/Roadster shifter.) > > This could have been done, I'll know more when I get the actual service > records > > Pretty much my intention. I initially thought guibo (which apparently no one > knows how to pronounce, including me.. guiee-bo? goo-bo? gee-ueee-bo?) > Easy: it's pronounced "flexible coupling." <g> > but since it seems restricted to 2nd gear, and seems like it might be more > noticeable when making turns, I'm starting to think engine mounts. > Some short shifters get the lower pivot end of the lever pretty close to the prop shaft. Since you're seeing the vibration only with the lever in one particular position, that's a possibility. If so you'd see a mark on the shaft. > I did have the car up in the air about 2 weeks ago when it got new > belts/thermostat/housing/idlers (while I was there sorta thing, it needed the > $12 thermostat) - and I glanced at the tranny mounts, they looked fine, not > mushy - and at the guibo - which had no obvious hunks out of it. What I didn't > look at - was the front motor mounts. D'uh on me. > They're not all that easy to check. When I did a preventative replacement of mine a year or two back, one of them came out in two pieces. This hadn't been apparent when the weight of the engine was holding it together. To be absolutely sure of their condition you'd need to lift the engine slightly and unfasten the mounts, at which point you might as well replace them anyway. Around $120 the pair or so IIRC. Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child 88 MB 300E - Gone after 240K+ miles 03 525iT - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S on order
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Component Speaker Fitment in 98 M3/4 Front Doors/Panels - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 06:06:55 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Component Speaker Fitment in 98 M3/4 Front Doors/Panels Sean- I did a quasi 3-way system in my 97 M3/2 with excellent results. I used a Boston Acoustics Pro 5.25" component system in the kick panels. The midbass drivers fit perfectly after removing the fiber speaker cups. Plenty of depth. I fashioned an angled tweeter mount, using some ABS pipe, with the tweeters pointing rearward and upward toward the listener's ears. If you were looking at the driver's side plastic kick panel, the tweeter is located SW of the midbass opening about .5" from the opening. Looking at the pass side kick panel, the tweet is SE of the opening. I used the factory wiring for the mid tweeter (lower door) to connect the BA tweeter in the kick panel. Next, I used a set of BA neo5t ambient tweeters in the upper door locations. These help raise the sound stage and improve imaging. The BA tweeter cups slip right into the factory tweeter housing once the factory grills and tweets have been removed. Factory tweets are just hot glued in. So, to recap, all factory wiring used. No cutting needed except to the plastic kick panels. This could be avoided if you used the surface mounts for the component set tweeters. Awesome front stage and sound. As far as the rears go, if you want to keep them, you'll have to keep the factory amp to drive them. They actually consist of a midbass and tweeter contained in a housing. The x-overs are in the factory amp. My rears were removed to allow the bass to come in from my trunk mounted sub. If you'd like pics of my front setup or you have other questions, e-mail me privately. No pics allowed on the list. Jay > Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 13:29:14 -0500 > From: "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> > Subject: Component Speaker Fitment in 98 M3/4 Front Doors/Panels > > All, > > I am going to do a complete replacement of the stereo in my latest > m3. It's a 98 sedan with the HK system. I am going to replace the head > unit, changer, amps and speakers, etc... > > I plan on leaving the rear speakers stock as they are just for a bit of > fill. Can anyone recommend speakers they have put in the FRONT of the M3's > that fit....I have ADS and Focal components in my other setups and I pretty > confident the Focals are way to deep to fit the m3. I am looking for > specific setups people have used in M3's that are known to fit. Has anyone > actually put a 3 way system in or is everyone doing a two way system? How > does it sound? The mid and tweeter are in the door and there is another > speaker down in the kick panel? > > All advise would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > Sean Smith > Raleigh, NC > > 04 WRX Wagon > 03 Radical SR-3 (Race Car) > 00 M5 (Daily Driver) > 98 M3/4 (Backup Daily Driver/Backup Track Car)
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#4. Re: Guibo - update.. and question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 09:17:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Guibo - update.. and question on 1/11/05 11:54 PM, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > BTW - did get the service records from the former owner today.. > and WOW - did they spend some $$$. It got a new top under the > factory warranty about 2 years ago, but then followed a sequence > of adjusting the top every 2 months that lasted for close to a > year. According to a diatribe about the E36 (which wasn't especially accurate in other respects) in the latest Roundel, the convertible top mechanism is notoriously troublesome. > Not to count the entire new front suspension for > $2,400 about a year ago Wow! How does it feel to have a solid gold front suspension? Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child 88 MB 300E - Gone after 240K+ miles 03 525iT - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S on order
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#5. Re: Guibo - update.. and question. - from david kroth
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 06:21:00 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Guibo - update.. and question. > I'm tempted to either order a new one Don, either try a new one, or modify the old one with a serrated knife (bread knife). Shave some material off until you have full clearance all around. ===== David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#6. GGC Driving School at Laguna Seca - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 10:37:14 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: GGC Driving School at Laguna Seca BMW CCA Golden Gate Chapter has a special one-day driving school at Laguna Seca on Monday, February 7th. This school is for Advanced and High-Intermediate drivers (A and B group) as well as novice and intermediate MINI owners. Laguna Seca dates are in extreme demand this year as the track is shutting down for 6 weeks of construction in May and June, thanks to the upcoming MotoGP race. So if you are interested in some track time at Laguna Seca, this is a great opportunity. Prices are $249 for BMW CCA members and $289 for non-members (includes a one-year BMW CCA membership). More info at: http://www.ggcbmwcca.org Please feel free to forward this info if you know of someone who may be interested. See you there! - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#7. demagnetizing tappets. - from John Pease
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 10:40:06 -0800 (PST) From: John Pease <john_pease123@yahoo.com> Subject: demagnetizing tappets. AEK wrote: >Anybody have an idea on how I can demagnetize these puppies? The're >about 1.5" in diameter. >Most of the "hand" demagnetizers are too small and are more suited >for screwdrivers, etc. There are several ways to demagnetize. I will list them in order of enjoyment to the demagnetizer: 1) Use a blow torch to heat the metal above its Curie temperature. For steel alloys, the Curie temperature is reached just before the metal starts to glow. Of course you can't tell when something is just about to glow until it actually does! This method, though robust, may cause problems with the metallurgy. 2) Use a large hammer (you can borrow my 8# sledge if you want). Bash the piece several times until the magnetization dies. You must periodically rotate the piece while bashing it so that the magnetic domains don't align with the earths magnetic field. This method is not as robust as method 1. It may also cause tolerance problems upon reassembly. GM recommends this method #2 for the LS1 and LS6 Corvette engines. (HEE HEE) 3) Coil several turns of wire around the piece. Connect these wires to a VARIAC. Adjust the voltage of the VARIAC up and then down to 0. The magnetic domains will follow the induced field and make smaller and smaller loops until the remnant magnetization is nulled. How high should you adjust the VARIAC voltage? Well there are couple of hard limits here. If you don't have enough turns of wire, you will draw a lot of current quickly and make everything quite hot. A wimpy VARIAC is only good for a few hundred Watts this is the other limit. Experimentation is required. Other than the risk of electrocution, this method is as robust as #1 without the disadvantages of either #1 or #2. This method is used in CRT degaussing systems. With any of these methods you must remove all small children and pets from the area. Wear proper protection and frequently count you fingers and other appendages. Hope this helps. John Pease BTW I have 26 quarts of Mobile 1 20W50. You want em? If yes you also have toak several quarts of Castrol 20w50 dyno juice. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? All your favorites on one personal page – Try My Yahoo! http://my.yahoo.com
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#8. Demagnetization follow-on - from John Pease
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 11:03:09 -0800 (PST) From: John Pease <john_pease123@yahoo.com> Subject: Demagnetization follow-on Okay here's a 4th method. I bought some 6" x 4" x 1" ceramic magnets on ebay (don't ask why). If you can separate them without crushing your fingers we could build a larger version of the screw driver demagnetizer. These guys are a little scary to work with. They were coated with oil when I got them. Imagine the fun I had separating 10 large, powerful, and slippery magnets!! I'll crawl back into my hole now. John Pease __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free! http://my.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] She's old 'n noisy! Advice? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 15:11:46 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] She's old 'n noisy! Advice? Thanks to all for the info and advice given. Although I had no CE light come up, there was a fault code triggered. Turns out that the root of the idle and power issues was just (hopefully that is) was a bad ignition coil, so that's been replaced. Replaced my radiator as part of my preventative track maintenance schedule, and got the motor mounts replaced for the first time (at 137K miles), so I'm hoping that maybe the odd occassional "zing" I was getting after hard braking or cornering was just a result of slight motor repositioning. ;) Will pick up the car from Windigo Independant BMW tomorrow and see what she's like again. Getting my first oil analysis done too, just for peace of mind. Btw, I'm driving a Dinan E34 540 for now, and I must say... Torque is FUN! Good lord this thing moves. My M3 "sounds" faster because of the exhaust, intake, etc, but I'm quite sure this beast pulls harder in a straight line than mine. Jonathan L.
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#10. Share Ride to GGC BMW CCA Party? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 16:59:12 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Share Ride to GGC BMW CCA Party? Hi All. If anyone's interested, I'm going to the Holiday party in Danville on Friday, and I can take one person with me, preferably someone who's reasonably on the way between me and the museum. Lemme know ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com