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#1. RE: [E36M3] Tow points? - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:44:16 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tow points? There should be a small cover in the bumper where you screw the eye hook from the trunk toolkit. There is one in the front and one in the back. Carey -----Original Message----- From: Don Eilenberger [mailto:deilenberger@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:29 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tow points? Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 20:58:49 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Tow points? Not that I'm trying to hex myself (but - my '03 525iT is getting a BMW paid for tow on Monday AM, I think it's jealous..) Where exactly is the M3 supposed to be pulled from to get it up on a flatbed? The inadequate manual makes note of the towing-eye and flip down covers in the bumpers, which I'm familiar with from other BMW's, but I see no flip down covers on the M3.. Anyone? TIA! _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ____________________________________ 100% Spam Control by SpamEnder Free Download and Trial http://www.spamender.com/
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#2. Re: Friction supports for Hood - from Justin Gerry
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:48:51 -0500 From: "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> Subject: Re: Friction supports for Hood >>Is there any special skills in replacing them myself? Just use a hood prop, which can be either a second person or a wooden stick. Dropping the hood on your head is no fun. I ended up purchasing a pair from my local dealer. Don't recall it being quite that much. -Justin '76 02 '97 m3 http://www.bmw2002.net
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#3. RE: What would you pay? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 09:33:20 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: What would you pay? At 04:09 AM 1/16/05, Tom Reynolds wrote: >Hi Don, > Thanks for the feedback, but something you say below confuses me >(not a hard thing to do...) >Here's what it is: > >I did see 100k cars from '96-97 sell for mid-low-teens, and '98-99 cars >with >100k+ sell for mid-teens. >If a 10 year old car with over 100k is going for less than $10k, (and >that's about 10k miles per year, all things being equal) then the newer >cars with > 100k miles have more miles per year which would mean harder >use, so even though they're newer, they've been used harder. Plus, the >newer the car, the more electronics which (you'd think) would be more of an >expense if/when they go wrong (based on the more complicated something is, >the more liklihood it's gonna go blooey.) >Or, I could be completely wrong... While logical.. this isn't what I observed. I probably do still have the spreadsheet around, it has a pivot table in it that allows you to put in different filters and draw up the data. I don't think miles per year are necessarily an indicator of "harder" use. I did look at one '99 M3 coupe in Hellrot that had 106k miles on it (~18k/year) that looked quite nice and drove well. Problem I had with it - the owner had put coil-over suspension on it that I didn't particularly like, and he wasn't realistic on his price, he was looking for $17k or so. If he'd been willing to talk about $14k I would have really considered it - it was a nice car, and had been fanatically maintained. One point I know from experience.. any time a car goes over 100k it is easily 3-4x harder to sell, which is reflected in the price. Doesn't matter if it's this years car or 20 years old, the US mentality left over from US cars is a car is ready for the trash at 100k. Not true with a lot of euro cars, and probably modern US cars if they're maintained, but it may take a few more human generations to cross over that hump of acceptance. Best, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood - from Tom Reynolds
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:14:16 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood If it's anything like the hatchback on my wife's Acura (we had to replace the struts about a year or two ago) you just prop the (in this case) hood/bonnet and make sure it's not going to fall on you while you're working on it. Then, I would think (and correct me if I'm wrong, folks) it would just be two attachment points per strut. Careful not to lose any hardware, but just "remove/clean/and replace" should do it. Best regards, Tom Reynolds Sand Springs, OK P.S. Be careful the first time you test it after installation, "just in case." At 09:49 AM 01/16/2005 -0600, Justin Gerry wrote: > >Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:48:51 -0500 >From: "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> >Subject: Re: Friction supports for Hood > >>>Is there any special skills in replacing them myself? > >Just use a hood prop, which can be either a second person or a wooden >stick. Dropping the hood on your head is no fun. > >I ended up purchasing a pair from my local dealer. Don't recall it being >quite that much. > >-Justin >'76 02 >'97 m3 >http://www.bmw2002.net > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.809 / Virus Database: 551 - Release Date: 12/09/2004 >
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#5. '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from Tom Reynolds
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:17:31 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> Subject: '95 M3: Vaders in leather? Maybe I was laboring under a false assumption, but I thought the Vader seats were cloth? I know with the Lux package one gets leather, heated electric seats, but on the "regular" M3s, I thought the Vaders were standard, and cloth. Or, are the Vaders optional and the "regular" seats actually non-Vaders (and in cloth)? Thanks, Tom (confused yet again) Reynolds Sand Springs, OK
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood - from donna seeley
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 08:26:34 -0800 From: donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood My techs used a small Vise-Grip clamped on the shock rod. Much easier to toss in the glove box than a second person or a wooden stick. Donna 89 325i, no hood shocks 88 M3, no hood shocks 97 M3, functional hood shocks 88 528e, vise-grips in glove box On 1/16/05 7:49 AM, "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> wrote: > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:48:51 -0500 > From: "Justin Gerry" <justin_gerry@warpmail.net> > Subject: Re: Friction supports for Hood > >>> Is there any special skills in replacing them myself? > > Just use a hood prop, which can be either a second person or a wooden > stick. Dropping the hood on your head is no fun. > > I ended up purchasing a pair from my local dealer. Don't recall it being > quite that much. > > -Justin > '76 02 > '97 m3 > http://www.bmw2002.net
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: What would you pay? - from Bob Moore
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:27:12 -0600 From: Bob Moore <moorer1@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: What would you pay? Is there any way in ebay to filter out (completed) auctions in which the reserve was not met? It seems like 90% or so of the completed auctions I look at end this way. Bob Don Eilenberger wrote: > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 00:22:35 -0500 > From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> > Subject: RE: What would you pay? > > Tom asked: > >> Hi everyone, >> I've been introduced to a '95 M3 that has a bit over 100k >> miles on >> it. Only known (and I'll have it checked out) performance mod is a >> Dinan >> chip. Original also available with purchase of car. (BTW, is it >> "DEENAN" >> or DYNAN"?) Anyway, from 10 feet it looks like a nice looking car (Avus >> Blue/Dove Gray) and I'm told (by another guy who apparently has >> driven it) >> that it runs like is has 32k miles instead of 100k. 5 speed, Lux >> package, >> service records are also available, car has been local, two previous >> owners. What would a fair buying price be? I know it depends on >> condition, and I'll have a PPI done, but just to start things off, >> what do >> you think? (I know what they're asking, but don't want to skew the >> results >> of this "poll" I'll advise after the results are in, in a day or so.) >> >> Thanks very much, >> Tom Reynolds >> Sand Springs (near Tulsa) OK > > > Tom - I watched Ebay auctions for several months before I purchased > my current M3.. and built up a spreadsheet of prices cars sold for > and didn't sell for. I feel Ebay is the ultimate price guide.. > a car is only worth what someone will pay for it. > > Given that - it depends. > > A really good buy - if there isn't anything immediately needing > attention (like tires, clutch, brakes) is less than $10k for > a car as you described... ie - a 10 foot car, but good overall > condition with > 100k on it. I saw ones sell for this sort of > price on da'bay. I didn't see many sell for much over this once > they passed 100k and 8-9 years old. I did see 100k cars from > '96-97 sell for mid-low-teens, and '98-99 cars with 100k+ sell > for mid-teens. > > If it passes a PPI - and you can get it under 10k, I think you > have a car that isn't going to go down much in value even if > you put another 40k on it. There seems to be a bottom $$$ price > for an un-hit, still has paint and rubber on it M3, and that's > not much below $10 (perhaps $8k or so.) > > HTH, > > _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ > > Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ >
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#8. Re[2]: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:37:55 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Re: Friction supports for Hood donna seeley <dlseeley@earthlink.net> wrote: > My techs used a small Vise-Grip clamped on the shock rod. Much easier to > toss in the glove box than a second person or a wooden stick. That's a great tip. I've been reading these messages with interest as my hood shocks are semi-dead as well. Very cool idea with the vice grips, it's not like you need to be careful with the old ones - they're busted anyway! Andrej '97 M3
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Seats madness... - from Dave Flogaus
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:40:30 -0500 From: "Dave Flogaus" <dave-m3fan@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Seats madness... Seats: "Vaders" are called that because of the Darth Vader helmet -like shape of the headrest that featured integrated shoulder supports (that don't really do that much to support your shoulders). These were the "normal" seat in all two-door M3s with the exception of the luxury package seats. Lux pack seats were like those in a 325 or 328 sport with somewhat "more sporting" bolsters, but lacked the distinctive look. The leather on lux pack seats was more supple, less speedbuisnesslike. 4 doors never got Vader seats to my knowledge. Eventually the late 4 door USA cars were being built with vinyl seats after BMW ran out of the leather sport seats... Complete with a credit on the window sticker for having been screwed out of the leather. Vader or not, Cloth was rare in 95 and more rare after that on US E36 cars. Dumb dealers optioned most of the cars they ordered for the masses (who apparently want to slip and slide behind the wheel because they believe a "luxury" brand like a BMW "Must have" leather seats in this price range). The 95 (and earlier) cloth had a really good looking M color cloth. The "Hurricane" cloth pattern in 95 LWTs was similar, but all of the marker strokes are reddish and pinkish. (Missing the blue and orange). 96 and later cars with cloth had yet another odd pattern of swirls and colors for the center sections of the seats. Too add to the confusion, the LWT cloth seats are the non-Vader sport seats that have actual cloth outer bolsters. I guess these are lighter. The Vaders with cloth had bolsters in Alcantara. Independently of cloth center pattern, these seats were very nice. HTH Dave Flogaus dave-m3fan@comcast.net -----Original Message----- From: Tom Reynolds [mailto:kjtar@earthlink.net] Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 11:19 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:17:31 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> Subject: '95 M3: Vaders in leather? Maybe I was laboring under a false assumption, but I thought the Vader seats were cloth? I know with the Lux package one gets leather, heated electric seats, but on the "regular" M3s, I thought the Vaders were standard, and cloth. Or, are the Vaders optional and the "regular" seats actually non-Vaders (and in cloth)? Thanks, Tom (confused yet again) Reynolds Sand Springs, OK ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Replacing Ignition Coils? - from twisty M3
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 09:04:40 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Replacing Ignition Coils? As mentioned earlier, it ended up being a bad coil that was causing my violent power loss last week. No CE light ever came up, but fault codes were found saying the the #6 coil was the trouble maker. My next auto investment is absolutely going to be the Peake code reader/reset tool. At the same time, however, I'm wondering if it's not a bad idea to replace the other 5 coils. If one goes bad, is it generally a sign the the rest may be following soon? If replacing them all is a good idea, how tough is it to do so? My mechanic was doing other work, so I had them hunt down the problem and do the coil when they found that to be the problem, but it doesn't seem like it should be a really hard DIY job either. I'll search around for instructions, but if anyone has a write-up (if that's even necessary), please let me know. OH! And one REALLY fun tidbit... When I got to the mechanic, it was (of course) impossible for me to get the other odd noise my car was making to come up. Nothing stood out during the other work, so I picked her up and drove home. As soon as I got home the sound came back and never went away as it usually did. Parked the car and tried to figure out exactly where it was coming from and it seemed to be from one of the pullies... Possibly P/S. Shut the car down, went inside and came back out to find the P/S pump bleeding to death in my garage. Replaced it yesterday and the car is finally back to the way I remember her. ;) Except for parking lots, I have to admit to liking no power steering for a couple of days. Jonathan L.