E36M3 #4081

Monday, January 17, 2005 15:30:12

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio - from GGray657@aol.com
#2. Re: [E36M3] Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Jim Bassett
#3. Best way to remove a broken tap? - from Wayne Miller
#4. Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#5. Re: [E36M3] Best way to remove a broken tap? - from Andrew Kalman
#6. Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Andy Radin
#7. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from Mel Silva
#8. Re: Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Neil Maller
#9. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#10. Re: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from Raza Uddin

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 13:59:14 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio 95 3.15 95a 3.23 96-99 3.23 96-99a 3.38 All were LSD's. I have a 3.38 in my car is great. Any lower and it would be buzzy. On the interstate mine runs around 3800 @80. A six speed would make it perfect. Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:55:16 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? Quoting Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com>: > Quick question. How does one remove / adjust the whole windshield > wiper arm (the whole assembly, not just the blade). I had the > windshield replaced recently, the installers did a great job with the > windshield, but put on the drivers side wiper a little too low. Does > it just pull off? Or is there mebbe a nut hidden under a cover cap? IIRC, there's a nut under the cover. Yep: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&prod=19970800&btnr=61_0069&hg=61&fg=45> :-) Jim Bassett - still a bit of free time at work ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.

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#3. Best way to remove a broken tap? - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 14:22:17 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Best way to remove a broken tap? While this may be slightly off topic because it is regarding an E46M3 at least it is close. Over the weekend, I replaced my driveshaft due to a bad CV joint (the gasket was caught in the little CV balls and made the entire car vibrate). I had almost everything back together but on E46M3's, there is a V-shaped brace under the rear of the car that ties the center under the diff carrier to the two sides of the car. I knew that the last time I had it apart, it was difficult to get the bolt in the center in so I decided to use a tap to clean up the threads. I start tapping away and BAM the tap just breaks apart. I wasn't applying too much pressure and it is an 11mm tap so I would think it would be difficult to break anyway. Now I am left with a broken tap inside the hole. What does one drill into a tap with in order to use a screw extractor? It is compounded but the fact that it isn't a clean break so there isn't a flat surface to start drilling. Any ideas? For now, I just left the brace off so at least the car is drivable. -Wayne

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 14:25:05 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Final drive ratio Gary wrote: 95 3.15 95a 3.23 96-99 3.23 96-99a 3.38 ------------------ Just to complete the story, the 1995 LTW M3 had a 3.23 ratio too. And technically only the 97-99 automatics had 3.38. There were no automatic M3's produced in the "bastard" year 1996. [Hi Neal!] And I too have lusted after the Euro 6-speed from the '96+ M3's. It has a 1:1 5th gear and a 0.83:1 overdrive 6th gear. It would be perfect for easy Interstate cruising. I don't know why BMW didn't bring it to the U.S., especially considering the concern for increasing fleet average gas mileage. Lowell '95 M3 manual

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Best way to remove a broken tap? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:46:41 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best way to remove a broken tap? Re: >While this may be slightly off topic because it is regarding an E46M3 at >least it is close. Over the weekend, I replaced my driveshaft due to a bad >CV joint (the gasket was caught in the little CV balls and made the entire >car vibrate). I had almost everything back together but on E46M3's, there is >a V-shaped brace under the rear of the car that ties the center under the >diff carrier to the two sides of the car. I knew that the last time I had it >apart, it was difficult to get the bolt in the center in so I decided to use >a tap to clean up the threads. I start tapping away and BAM the tap just >breaks apart. I wasn't applying too much pressure and it is an 11mm tap so I >would think it would be difficult to break anyway. Now I am left with a >broken tap inside the hole. What does one drill into a tap with in order to >use a screw extractor? It is compounded but the fact that it isn't a clean >break so there isn't a flat surface to start drilling. Any ideas? For now, I >just left the brace off so at least the car is drivable. 11mm is pretty big, so that's a good thing. You may be able to get some sort of tuning-fork like tool in there, into two opposing open spaces between the flutes, and just unscrew it. You may also have luck by simply applying a drill bit to it, but in reverse -- if it can catch, it'll probably be able to spin it out. In general, I've found that the best tool to deal with broken bolts / studs / taps is a masonry bit (the kind with the brazed-on hardened tip). That tip is extremely hard, but can be sharpened with, say, a Dremel tool, and will then drill through steel like it's buttah. Also, the bodies of masonry bits are not brittle, so they can take a lot of abuse and off-axis drilling without breaking. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#6. Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Andy Radin
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 12:10:12 -0800 From: "Andy Radin" <fourfa@hotmail.com> Subject: Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? "Quick question. How does one remove / adjust the whole windshield wiper arm (the whole assembly, not just the blade). I had the windshield replaced recently, the installers did a great job with the windshield, but put on the drivers side wiper a little too low. Does it just pull off? Or is there mebbe a nut hidden under a cover cap?" there's a nut hidden under the cover cap.

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#7. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 14:32:48 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? Not to be contradictory, but my '97 Sedan has the Luxury package (according to the window sticker) and the 'sport seats' (which are not heated, btw). I am guessing that my PO also took the leather credit since my headrests or seats do not have the ///M stripes on them. Mel -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] The early Luxury package only came with the sport seats, no "Vaders" available. You are right the Luxury package added electric powered seats but you could get heated seats separately. The Luxury package was discontinued after '96 models. An interesting bit of trivia is the '95 LTW M3 model came with the cloth/suede sport seats instead of the more contoured "Vader" seats. Lowell Seaton

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#8. Re: Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:46:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Removing / Adjusting windshield wiper arm? on 1/17/05 2:09 PM, Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > Quick question. How does one remove / adjust the whole windshield > wiper arm (the whole assembly, not just the blade). The arm assembly fits over a splined shaft, and is secured by a nut. This nut is hidden under a black plastic cap. Because your wiper arms have recently been removed, once you remove the nut it may not be too hard to wiggle them free. Otherwise they tend to be hard to get unstick from the splines. I sometimes use a small puller, such as a battery terminal puller. Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child 88 MB 300E - Gone after 240K+ miles 03 525iT - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S on order

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#9. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 16:01:27 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? Mel corrects me: Not to be contradictory, but my '97 Sedan has the Luxury package (according to the window sticker) and the 'sport seats' (which are not heated, btw). ----------------------------------- I wasn't sure when the so called "Luxury" package was discontinued but I know by the end of the production run, it wasn't a specific option. You could get most all of the pieces from the Luxury package piecemeal after it was discontinued. I don't have my '95 or '96 M3 brochure handing or I would print what was included. Lowell '95 M3

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#10. Re: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 13:26:20 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] '95 M3: Vaders in leather? On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:09:13 -0600, LoweSeaton@aol.com <LoweSeaton@aol.com> wrote: > I wasn't sure when the so called "Luxury" package was discontinued but I know by the end of the production run, it wasn't a specific option. You could get most all of the pieces from the Luxury package piecemeal after it was discontinued. I don't have my '95 or '96 M3 brochure handing or I would print what was included. I believe 9/97 (just in time for 1998 production) was when BMW discontinued the Luxury package and all M3s were equipped with the standard Sport equipment. Drive Safely, Raza

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