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#1. Re: Door panel adhesive - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 11:34:53 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Door panel adhesive Liquid Nails works better than anything else I've tried on the plastic parts on the back of the door panel (pockets and clip rails). If the vinyl is peeling, just buy a new panel. Chip Mitchell > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 17:58:28 -0600 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: Door panel adhesive > > Hey, Gang- > So I'm ignoring the little bubble I see in the headliner that's > starting to separate (I'll ask for advice on that later) but planning > to remove and re-bond the elements of my door panels, again, and I'm > looking for recommendations on adhesives. > I did it about two years ago with a foaming polyurethane glue that > held in some spots, but not others. The plastic pockets seem to be the > main culprits, but the insert on the passenger door is also loose. > I'm currently thinking of a good application of silicone > sealant/adhesive, something with just a little give that will still > hold everything tight so I can get the car feeling solid again. Any > other suggestions or thoughts? > > Clang clang, rattle rattle, crash, beep beep, > Steve > > Oh, and on the whole 300hp topic, any word on the Eurosport twin screw? > That would be my preferred method unless I can pick those pesky bits of > McLaren carbon fiber off of the shiny S70 V12 I've got tucked under my > bed. . . > > :shiftyeyes (use your smiley imagination!) > > -ShiftyKlein >
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#2. steering wheel vibration - from driver8 ///M3
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:38:29 -0800 (PST) From: driver8 ///M3 <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: steering wheel vibration for a long time i've had various amounts of steering wheel vibration, especially on braking. i always thought it was bent rims, and i did indeed have a bent rim (but the vibration didnt go away completely after it was repaired and everything road-force balanced). recently, i started having signs of low power steering fluid (leak marks under the car, weird sounds on turning), so i checked the fluid level. the cap was a little loose, with some nasty crud all around the opening, and the level was pretty low. i drained out what i could (it was ugly), and added some new fluid. while i expected that the steering noise would disappear (and it did), i didnt expect that the vibration issue would also be cured. but it was. if you've got a vibration problem that isn't cured with balancing, check out your power steering fluid. russell dakar 99
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#3. Loose steering feel... - from Som Naderi
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 08:41:22 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Loose steering feel... Well, again I'm going to do my best to give a vague description of a possible problem and hope someone has some insight to share with me. I installed the H&R coilovers almost 3 months ago. For the first month, or so, the ride was very stiff and steering felt tight. At freeway speeds, a "small amplitude" jiggle in the steering wheel could shake the car plenty. The suspension softened up after about a month. While the ride quality improved, the steering now feels VERY soft and non-responsive. It *seems* like I have to swing the steering wheel back and forth from 10-to-2 o'clock to get the same kind of shake in the car. I can't imagine the steering ratio has actually changed, though, so I'm left wondering what aspects of the suspension/power steering could be causing this dramatic change in steering feel. I would expect a minor drop in steering feel as the suspension settled/softened, but I'm pretty sure this is more than normal. I only recently got the car aligned, a week ago, and I was hoping the problem would be solved. It's still there. The stock suspension components include the sway bars (with somewhat worn out mounting bushings) and the front control arms/bushings. Is it possible these components are not working well with the tighter suspension? To add another possible data point, when I go over "quick" bumps (potholes, large cracks, etc) in the road while turning (usually at lower speeds) the left front suspension makes some kind of metal-on-metal rattle. Visual inspection turned up nothing, though. I don't feel it in the steering wheel, though. It just shakes the whole car (as any bump would, I guess) and gives off a loud clanging sound. Anyways... hope there's enough there for someone to provided some insight. Again, any help at all would be greatly appreciated. - Som '98 Coupe
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#4. Mobil 1 0w-40 - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 18:05:00 +0100 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: Mobil 1 0w-40 Hi gruppe, Anyone tried the 0w-40 yet? I put it in last Friday, and when I started the car this morning, got a small grinding noise..wondering if its right enough for the Bay area? Fyi, I have a 1996 M3. thanks
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#5. Re: list stickers - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 11:13:56 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: list stickers Just wanted to let everyone know the list stickers have now all been spoken for--most are already in the mail. Thanks to all who responded. Sue
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#6. Thermostat housing bleed screw? - from Som Naderi
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:16:18 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Thermostat housing bleed screw? Well, I spent my Saturday doing a bunch of cooling system work. - Radiator (Zionsville Hi-Po kit) - Fan/clutch (Hi-Po) - Thermostat/housing (Hi-Po) - Water pump (bimmerparts.com) Total time: 8 hours (including going to Sears to buy a 32mm wrench) Estimated time to repeat: 1-2 hours The biggest problem I ran into was removing the factory hose clamp that runs from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank (not much of a problem, I know). Also, since I didn't have a worm-drive hose clamp handy, I used a couple zip-ties as a temporary solution. The biggest problem I had been anticipating turned out not to be a problem at all. The fan nut actually came off with ease. Using the suggestions from the archives, I gave the wrench a few swift hits from a fairly large soft mallet and it came loose. The Bentley says that the M3 models have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing (in addition to the one on the expansion tank). I couldn't find what it was talking about, though. I have a 98, is this something that was changed? I filled the system while only leaving the expansion tank bleed screw open. This should be just fine, right? One last thing. I put new belts on during this process, since it seemed like the ideal time and the old ones were cracking a little. Do I need to put any kind of dressing on them since they're new? Or will they be perfectly fine installed as-is? Thanks for the help! - Som '98 Coupe
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#7. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 in Snow? - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:41:05 -0700 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 in Snow? >Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 09:22:00 -0500 >From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> >Subject: 1995 M3 in Snow? > >All: > >Do any of you routinely drive your M3's in the snow? I have a 1995 M3 (no >traction control) and may find myself in the Denver area next winter. Will >this car be safe and confident in occasional snow with a set of Blizzaks or >is this a good time to move to a newer car with traction control? I have >plenty of snow driving experience myself, but it has all been in FWD Saabs. >The only BMW I've ever driven in snow was a mid-80's five series which could >get stuck on a flat road with an inch of snow. > >Thank you in advance, > >Kevin > My 98/4 (with traction) does winter use all the time, regularly going to the mountains skiing. I use a set of 16" wheels with snow tires with studs. [flame suit on: according to the transportation experts, studs do not cause the highway damage, 18 wheelers do]. Works fine. I seldom see the traction control light flash on. I'm in Boulder. -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#8. 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 12:53:19 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question I think (getting old here..) I had posted here about the 2nd gear shifter shudder I experience under acceleration, especially around right hand turns. After LOTS of web searching, and a visit to the lift for the car ('98 M3C/5) I found one M3 website where the question of exactly what I see/feel in my shifter came up. Nothing really "bad" was found up on the lift, so the following thread was of interest: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271455&highlight=shifter+vibration What's interesting is the number of people who experienced it, and that had no real problem. I also suspect it's an internal "problem" - but since it isn't causing any real problem I'm ignoring it (and it got less noticeable after putting in RoyalPurple Synchromax).. I think what initially caused it was the rubber sound ring that lives under the shift boot. In 2nd gear (and to an extent in 4th) - it tends to push the shifter back forwards the shift gate, which I suspect causes some wear inside the transmission resulting in the shudder/vibration in the shifter. I took the rubber ring out and cut a large area away (as someone here suggested) where 2nd and 4th gear live - and this greatly lessened the vibration. It now is only really noticeable IF I put my hand on the shifter and push it forwards towards the shift gate a bit which is what the rubber ring was doing. RoyalPurple - good stuff. I recommend it. Shifts much nicer than with the ATF BMW puts in the box. Stiff clutch - my mechanic noted the clutch feels stiff to him, but also that it engages and feels smooth and doesn't slip. The following thread sorta addresses this: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295785&highlight=stiff+clutch (NOTE - on both threads - the caliber of people posting to Bimmerforums seems to range from 10 year olds to perhaps a few people in their mid 20's.. language is not what we see on this list, and the quality of answers/comments vary widely - sorta usual "forum" sort of behavior.) I've also found my clutch becoming less hard - but I suspect it's from muscle growth in my left leg, no change in the actual clutch. It isn't as stiff as the clutch on my '65 XKE was - but it's close.. I tried the clutch on a new E46 M3 in the dealer showroom last week - and it requires SO much less force to depress. It also has less travel, and the clutch pedal lines up with the brake.. I suspect they've changed the mechanism somehow, have to look in the ETK. I'll probably be looking at the clutch sometime in the spring if I keep the car - do everything in the driveline at once. I was wondering if anyone else had a heavy feeling clutch that was "cured" by replacement? Best, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Thermostat housing bleed screw? - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:58:20 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat housing bleed screw? > -----Original Message----- > From: Som Naderi [mailto:som@dimensionracing.com] > Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 10:26 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Thermostat housing bleed screw? <snip> > The Bentley says that the M3 models have a bleed screw on the thermostat > housing (in addition to the one on the expansion tank). I couldn't find > what it was talking about, though. I have a 98, is this something that was > changed? I filled the system while only leaving the expansion tank bleed > screw open. This should be just fine, right? I just did the same R&R and I could only find the expansion tank one. I have a 97 M3/4. > > One last thing. I put new belts on during this process, since it seemed > like the ideal time and the old ones were cracking a little. Do I need to > put any kind of dressing on them since they're new? Or will they be > perfectly fine installed as-is? Leave 'em alone, they will work (and last) best without any dressing. > > Thanks for the help! You're welcome, Graeme > > - Som > '98 Coupe
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0w-40 - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 13:50:28 -0500 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0w-40 I've been using the Lubro Moly 0-40 for several years now in my M3 with no problems. Usually switch to 15-50 for track sessions. Carey Go, Jeffrey wrote: >Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 18:05:00 +0100 >From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> >Subject: Mobil 1 0w-40 > > > >Hi gruppe, > >Anyone tried the 0w-40 yet? > >I put it in last Friday, and when I started the car this morning, got a >small grinding noise..wondering if its right enough for the Bay area? > >Fyi, I have a 1996 M3. > >thanks > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >