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#1. Re: [E36M3] Sway bar link - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:08:22 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar link hopefully i'm understanding the question... the worn bushings may blow any fine adjustment, but you should strive for zero tension in the bar with each side of the car compressed the same (or unloaded the same). the bolts connecting the bar to the links should slip right in, and no adjustment be made to the links afterward. any torsional tension on the bar with the car "at rest" will make it want to roll the car one way or the other in the direction of equalizing the forces on the bar ends. =zs --- Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 20:24:56 -0600 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: Sway bar link > > Hey, Group- > I've replaced my front swaybar links and one is > adjustable, and this > is on stock sways with worn bushings. With the front > of the car in the > air, do I want to shorten the length (create tension > between each link) > or lengthen? Is there a rule of thumb? > > I'm assuming shorten since it will more quickly > transfer forces from > spring compression across the member, right? > > Thanks > Steve > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 10:44:40 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW There are some early cars with the week retainers if you do the lifters a good shop can do the retainers without pulling the head off. Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#3. How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:25:49 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? Hi All. Just wondering -- how do people hold the lifters in place when replacing or re-installing the cam journals / lifter blocks in the M3 motor? When I took my head apart, the lifters fell down and out of the lifter blocks rather easily as I pulled the lifter blocks up. Putting it back together won't be so simple, as the lifters don't appear to want to perch on top of the valves without tipping over and falling off... The easiest thing may be for me to put all the lifters into the lifter blocks (upside-down), and install the assemblies onto the head (also upside-down) in the shop, then mount the head to the block. Input appreciated ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:28:11 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? Two words: Assembly Lube :) Nice and sticky... HTH, Chester --- Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > Just wondering -- how do people hold the lifters in place when > replacing or re-installing the cam journals / lifter blocks in the M3 > motor? =====
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#5. RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Townsend, William
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 11:27:59 -0500 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) Hey Don, I went through the stiff clutch pedal with my 97 328. Bought it used, 112k and the clutch was original. It engaged pretty high in the pedal travel and was very stiff. Made the M3 seem as though it was power assisted. Engaged fine and never slipped but knew it was going. Also had the annoying clutch pedal creek and slop which I fixed right away with the uuc bushing kit and has been awesome since. (25K miles) Got the sachs clutch kit for the car and took it apart. Sure enough, the friction disk was at min thick. (according to bmw manual) Put the sachs kit in and my 4 year old could use the clutch. Very smooth and the engagement went back to where I would expect. --Bill 96 red M3 97 white 328
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#6. Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 11:53:02 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? In a message dated 1/25/2005 10:27:03 AM Central Standard Time, aek@pumpkininc.com writes: Just wondering -- how do people hold the lifters in place when replacing or re-installing the cam journals / lifter blocks in the M3 motor? Don't use assembly lube...they still tend to fall out.....I use masking tape...Yes masking tape..it was my wife's idea...It works GREAT!!! Here is the way to do it... First dry the surface off and lightly oil the lifters with motor oil, drop them into the holes..It is upside down. Take a roll of 3/4 inch masking tape, has to be good quality 3m tape, start at one end and run the tape across the center of the bores with the lifters in the bores wrap the tape all the way around the end's leaving a nice long tail to hold onto. Take another piece of tape long enough to wrap around the entire cam carrier and put it in the middle of the cam/lifter carried and tape it all the way around connecting the piece make it as tight as you can without cutting the tape on the sharp edge's, pull the long tails snug and gently flip the carrier over walk to the car and stick the carrier on the head gently, cut the center tape and gently pull the tape from the center of the carries, all the tape now comes out and the carrier can be pushed into place without lifters going everywhere... It works GREAT!!! i have done it three times to date with no problems at all...Just do it slowly and watch the tape. Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff - from Robert Brooks
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 09:55:00 -0700 From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) I had the stiff clutch once. It happened after one of a series of attempted fixes for a squeaky pedal, before I learned of the UUC bushings. The cause was a spring reinstalled incorrectly. Sorry, it was a few years ago and I don't remember the details.
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#8. Rear Control Arm bushings - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 12:17:29 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Rear Control Arm bushings I'll be going through the rear end soon on my 97 M3 4-Door. I have 2 new trailing arm bushings. But I am confused on the rear control arm bushings. I see there are the L2030-89190 upper, and the L2030-91418 lower bushings. How many of each do I need to do the complete rear suspension? In other words, are these bushings the same on both ends of the upper and lower rear control arms? Or is there another part I need to complete the bushing replacement? Also, should I go ahead and replace the subframe bushings while I am there? Thanks, Chris 97 M3/4
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#9. Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:47:12 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? Thanks to all who replied -- I'm gonna chicken out and put the lifter galleries onto the head while it's still out and upside-down. Then, head onto block, and finally, cams into head. But it's nice to know that there are workable solutions should I later have to replace the lifters in-situ. Thanks! -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#10. 1998 M3 convertible for sale - from Ed Lanham
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:02:31 -0500 From: "Ed Lanham" <momsbmr2@hotmail.com> Subject: 1998 M3 convertible for sale I have decided to put my 1998 M3 convertible up for sale. It is Estoril blue with dove grey interior with 77,000 miles. It has the usual options along with cruise control and power seats with the 5 speed automatic. I have upgraded to the C43 radio and added a HK amp. I recently installed all new rotors with Mintex pads. It has chromed Contour wheels that are in fair condition with recent Yokohama ES100 tires. I also have the rear seat wind deflecter and it was a former CPO car. I am the second owner and there are only a few small scratches and dents otherwise it is excellent. Asking $22,000 or best reasonable offer. You may contact me on the list or phone 321-984-2577. Thanks, Ed Lanham _________________________________________________________________ Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/