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#1. lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:27:15 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? Thanks to all those who responded to this question. It seems like adding baffling to the pan - VAC or TMS, along with possibly replacing the original lifters should help the problem a lot. John
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#2. License plate bracket - from Mike VanAmburgh
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 20:37:51 -0600 From: "Mike VanAmburgh" <mvanamburgh@charter.net> Subject: License plate bracket Unfortunately I live in a state that requires the front plate to be displayed. Does anyone have a bracket laying around that is collecting dust? Name your price! Thanks, Mike 95
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#3. RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:35:05 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) At 09:16 PM 1/25/05, Bill Townsend wrote: >Hey Don, > >I went through the stiff clutch pedal with my 97 328. Bought it used, >112k and the clutch was original. It engaged pretty high in the pedal >travel and was very stiff. Made the M3 seem as though it was power >assisted. Engaged fine and never slipped but knew it was going. Also had >the annoying clutch pedal creek and slop which I fixed right away with >the uuc bushing kit and has been awesome since. (25K miles) Got the >sachs clutch kit for the car and took it apart. Sure enough, the >friction disk was at min thick. (according to bmw manual) Put the sachs >kit in and my 4 year old could use the clutch. Very smooth and the >engagement went back to where I would expect. > >--Bill >96 red M3 >97 white 328 I'm pretty much resigned to replacing the clutch, which becomes more of a job since I'm one of those "as long as I'm in the area.." so it will at least include trans-mounts, guibo, possibly a center bearing and who knows what else. If I had a lift it would be a DIY (with someone to help with the heavy bits), but I don't think I want to approach this on ramps, so I've got to save up a bit to pay the labor (figure about 6-8 hours at my mechanics rate of $60/hour..) Guess I gotta do a bit of consulting again.. my mechanic and I charge the same rates, and I'd rather be setting up computers and networks than wrestling with an exhaust system.. Thanks! Don
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#4. [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... - from Steve Tymoszuk
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 22:17:39 -0500 From: Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> Subject: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... Sorry for the cross post. Does anyone know what the part numbers of the deflectors on the underside of the car (both left and right sides), just in front of the rear wheels and just behind the rear jack points? I can't seem to find them on the ETK and the parts guy I spoke to was useless. TIA, Steve
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#5. How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from Josh@eurosporthighperformance.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:34:34 -0700 From: Josh@eurosporthighperformance.com Subject: How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? Andrew, BMW makes a special too for this process - part number 88 88 6 113 250 MSRP $115.00 Dealer cost $80.45. It is plastic case containing 24 individual suction cups ~16mm in diameter that have ~30mm diameter handles. These suction cups are attached from the cam side of the cam tray to the top surface of the hydraulic tappet and secure the tappet from falling out of the tray by way of their 30mm dia handles (too big to fit through/past cam tray bearing ledges). They make cam tray removal and installation super easy, protect the tappets from drop damage, and most importantly insure that the tappets remain in their original positions so that one doesn't accidently mix up the tappets during repair and replace them in a non original location. Replacing the individual tappets to their original location in the cam tray is only important when re-using tappets. Josh MacMurray President, Eurosport LLC Form and Function- Ultra lightweight underdrive pulleys for the E36 M3 http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/pulleys.html Also come and see our Twin Screw Supercharger www.eurosporthighperformance.com/supercharger.html Phone 801 886 2185 fax 801 886 2189 At 08:16 PM 1/25/2005 -0600, you wrote: >-------------------- 3 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:25:49 -0800 >From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> >Subject: How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? > >Hi All. > >Just wondering -- how do people hold the lifters in place when >replacing or re-installing the cam journals / lifter blocks in the M3 >motor? > >When I took my head apart, the lifters fell down and out of the >lifter blocks rather easily as I pulled the lifter blocks up. Putting >it back together won't be so simple, as the lifters don't appear to >want to perch on top of the valves without tipping over and falling >off... > >The easiest thing may be for me to put all the lifters into the >lifter blocks (upside-down), and install the assemblies onto the head >(also upside-down) in the shop, then mount the head to the block. > >Input appreciated ... > > >-- > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#6. Re: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:26:48 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... Are you talking about: 51 71 8 130 071 51 71 8 130 072 ?? Chester --- Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> wrote: > Does anyone know what the part numbers of the deflectors on the underside > of the car (both left and right sides), just in front of the rear wheels > and just behind the rear jack points? I can't seem to find them on the ETK > and the parts guy I spoke to was useless. =====
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#7. When was end of production of the E36M3? - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 00:28:57 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: When was end of production of the E36M3? I'm sure someone would know this here: When was the last production date of the: E36M3 coupe E36M3 convertible E36 3-series coupe I know it was 99 but am interested in the month as well. Thanks Marc
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#8. Re: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... - from Steve Tymoszuk
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 01:27:12 -0500 From: Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> Subject: Re: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... This sure looks like it. These pieces got mashed and broken when the car was on a lift at some point. :( Thanks to all who have replied on and off list!!! -Steve Chester Wong wrote: >Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:26:48 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [UUC][E36M3] Part # help... > >Are you talking about: > >51 71 8 130 071 >51 71 8 130 072 > >?? > >Chester > >--- Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> wrote: > > >>Does anyone know what the part numbers of the deflectors on the underside >>of the car (both left and right sides), just in front of the rear wheels >>and just behind the rear jack points? I can't seem to find them on the ETK >>and the parts guy I spoke to was useless. >> >> > > >===== > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 22:32:28 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? That's cool, Josh. Thanks for the info and P/N. I plan on re-using my tappets for now, and they're bagged in numbered egg carton "cups" for reassembly ... Thanks again, ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com >BMW makes a special too for this process - part number 88 88 6 113 >250 MSRP $115.00 Dealer cost $80.45. It is plastic case containing >24 individual suction cups ~16mm in diameter that have ~30mm >diameter handles. These suction cups are attached from the cam side >of the cam tray to the top surface of the hydraulic tappet and >secure the tappet from falling out of the tray by way of their 30mm >dia handles (too big to fit through/past cam tray bearing ledges). >They make cam tray removal and installation super easy, protect the >tappets from drop damage, and most importantly insure that the >tappets remain in their original positions so that one doesn't >accidently mix up the tappets during repair and replace them in a >non original location. Replacing the individual tappets to their >original location in the cam tray is only important when re-using >tappets. > > >Josh MacMurray >President, Eurosport LLC >Form and Function- Ultra lightweight underdrive pulleys for the E36 M3 >http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/pulleys.html >Also come and see our Twin Screw Supercharger >www.eurosporthighperformance.com/supercharger.html >Phone 801 886 2185 fax 801 886 2189 > > > >At 08:16 PM 1/25/2005 -0600, you wrote: >>-------------------- 3 -------------------- >>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 08:25:49 -0800 >>From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> >>Subject: How to hold lifters in place during reassembly? >> >>Hi All. >> >>Just wondering -- how do people hold the lifters in place when >>replacing or re-installing the cam journals / lifter blocks in the M3 >>motor? >> >>When I took my head apart, the lifters fell down and out of the >>lifter blocks rather easily as I pulled the lifter blocks up. Putting >>it back together won't be so simple, as the lifters don't appear to >>want to perch on top of the valves without tipping over and falling >>off... >> >>The easiest thing may be for me to put all the lifters into the >>lifter blocks (upside-down), and install the assemblies onto the head >>(also upside-down) in the shop, then mount the head to the block. >> >>Input appreciated ... >> >> >>-- >> ______________________________________ >> Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com --
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Patrick Buthmann
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:27:11 -0500 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <pbuthmann@gmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! While I've tried the Carbotech pads, I'm generally not a big fan of them. They don't have the strong initial bite of the PF-97s, and their resistance to fade is less than ideal. They're cheaper than the PF-97s (but then again, so is pretty much everybody else), and they don't seem to generate the same corrosive dust. However, I found that they just didn't give me the same pedal feel and consistency that the PF-97's did. Soft pedal and poor initial bite meant I was braking early and often in races....not a good thing. Rather than going the PF-97 route, I went with Hawk HT-14s in the front, and Hawk HT-10s in the rear of my racecar. This provided the best combination of braking when compared to the PF-97s, all for less money. Lifespan on the Carbotechs was ok, though I did find them to have a tendency to leave high spots on the rotors. It's critical to bed them properly though, as they are not 'race ready', like the PF-97s. If they are not bedded properly, they will eat your rotors (and themselves) like Velveeta cheese. Pat -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Low [mailto:gerry@parallel-mkt.com] Sent: January 24, 2005 4:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 16:43:21 -0500 From: "Gerry Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Jonathan, The Carbotech XP9 pads are $169 and $129 front and rear, respectively. Highlights of the product are as follows: * The initial bite is similar to the PF97 and modulation better. * Similar pad life. * The ceramic compound is not corrosive on wheels, calipers and car paint even after months on washing after a track event. * Easy clean-up with soap and water. * Rotor wear is excellent because the operating temperature starts at 250F. As an added bonus of the low operating temperature, the pads do not have to be taken out for street use. * Integrated spring clips produce no rattling. * Two additional track/race compounds (XP10 and XP11(new)) with more initial bite are available. * One street/autocross compound is available. Simply the best pad I have used in 28 years of Driving Schools. Gerry "Well, I just ordered a set of PF97 brake pads for my front brakes, as I actually liked them better than the 01 compound I tried, but MAN did they increase the prices! Last time I bought these they were under $145 with our discount. The 01s were a bit more, but I wanted to see if they were worth the money. The 97s, WITH our list discount came to $191!! Regular price was in the neighborhood of $220. As much as I love these pads, and they do seem to last quite a while, I think I just might start venturing out into some different brands. The number of track days I can get out of the 97s might very well be worth it, unless anyone's tried a pad that works as well and lasts as long... Anyone? Jonathan L." -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/2005 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************