E36M3 #4095

Wednesday, January 26, 2005 11:56:51

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Jamie Howton
#2. Re: Part # help... - from Neil Maller
#3. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Gerry Low
#4. RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Townsend, William
#5. lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Kris Welhart
#6. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Ron Buchalski
#7. RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Burgess, Kim L
#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Mark Dadgar
#9. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from twisty M3
#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW - from Jim Bassett
#11. Re: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Walter J

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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 07:45:44 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) I did my M3 clutch at home on jackstands. It really isn't that bad of a job. The worst part is removing the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine because you have to do it while sitting on the ground with your head in the space formerly occupied by the driveshaft. I bought a cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight to help with the heavy lifting. Other WYAIT items depending upon mileage might be the rear main crankshaft seal(if you take the flywheel off), all other transmission seals, lightweight flywheel, guibo, any shaky exhaust mounts, clutch slave cylinder and hose, etc, etc. -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL

Reply to: Jamie Howton

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#2. Re: Part # help... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:55:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Part # help... on 1/26/05 8:46 AM, Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> wrote: > Does anyone know what the part numbers of the deflectors on the underside > of the car (both left and right sides), just in front of the rear wheels > and just behind the rear jack points? I can't seem to find them on the ETK > and the parts guy I spoke to was useless. 51 71 8 130 071 Rear air deflector - left 52 71 8 130 072 Rear air deflector - right Neil 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - New arrival, Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S built and awaiting shipment

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Gerry Low
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:38:52 -0500 From: "Gerry Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Pat, Just as all Hawks and PF's are not the same, Carbotechs have one street pad and 5 different track/race compounds. It has been over two years since you last tried the Carbotechs, in 2005 I am sure that there is one compound or combination of front/rear compounds that is right for you. Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Buthmann [mailto:pbuthmann@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 8:36 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:27:11 -0500 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <pbuthmann@gmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! While I've tried the Carbotech pads, I'm generally not a big fan of them. They don't have the strong initial bite of the PF-97s, and their resistance to fade is less than ideal. They're cheaper than the PF-97s (but then again, so is pretty much everybody else), and they don't seem to generate the same corrosive dust. However, I found that they just didn't give me the same pedal feel and consistency that the PF-97's did. Soft pedal and poor initial bite meant I was braking early and often in races....not a good thing. Rather than going the PF-97 route, I went with Hawk HT-14s in the front, and Hawk HT-10s in the rear of my racecar. This provided the best combination of braking when compared to the PF-97s, all for less money. Lifespan on the Carbotechs was ok, though I did find them to have a tendency to leave high spots on the rotors. It's critical to bed them properly though, as they are not 'race ready', like the PF-97s. If they are not bedded properly, they will eat your rotors (and themselves) like Velveeta cheese. Pat -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Low [mailto:gerry@parallel-mkt.com] Sent: January 24, 2005 4:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 16:43:21 -0500 From: "Gerry Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Jonathan, The Carbotech XP9 pads are $169 and $129 front and rear, respectively. Highlights of the product are as follows: * The initial bite is similar to the PF97 and modulation better. * Similar pad life. * The ceramic compound is not corrosive on wheels, calipers and car paint even after months on washing after a track event. * Easy clean-up with soap and water. * Rotor wear is excellent because the operating temperature starts at 250F. As an added bonus of the low operating temperature, the pads do not have to be taken out for street use. * Integrated spring clips produce no rattling. * Two additional track/race compounds (XP10 and XP11(new)) with more initial bite are available. * One street/autocross compound is available. Simply the best pad I have used in 28 years of Driving Schools. Gerry "Well, I just ordered a set of PF97 brake pads for my front brakes, as I actually liked them better than the 01 compound I tried, but MAN did they increase the prices! Last time I bought these they were under $145 with our discount. The 01s were a bit more, but I wanted to see if they were worth the money. The 97s, WITH our list discount came to $191!! Regular price was in the neighborhood of $220. As much as I love these pads, and they do seem to last quite a while, I think I just might start venturing out into some different brands. The number of track days I can get out of the 97s might very well be worth it, unless anyone's tried a pad that works as well and lasts as long... Anyone? Jonathan L." -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.2 - Release Date: 1/21/2005 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.4 - Release Date: 1/25/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.4 - Release Date: 1/25/2005

Reply to: Gerry Low

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#4. RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) - from Townsend, William
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:38:51 -0500 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) You hit the nail on the head. The exhaust added 3 hrs to my job. Would have been done in 8 if the exhaust was in better shape. Did the job with AC jack stands and AC jack. With 112K miles all of the exhaust fasteners were frozen. Broke 2 studs on the manifold (those were fun to replace), the muffler bracket was rusted so bad the bolts were not recognizable, had to cut them. Hangers were ripped too. My while you are in there was: friction disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, fork pivot, release bearing, new pressure plate bolts, guibo, pre-cat O2 sensors, all new exhaust hangers, bolts (SS), and gaskets (the hangers were very pricy), rear trans enforcers, rebuilt the shift linkage to the gear selector rod on the trans (source of tons of shift slop! -came as an assembly), and shift kit. Drive shaft and all related parts looked great. All exhaust bolts back on with anti-seize. An independent wanted $950 for the very basic job, would have been very far north of that when all was said and done. Besides, it had been 15yrs since I had done a clutch and wanted to prove I still had it. --Bill >>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:35:05 -0500 >>From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> >>Subject: RE: 2nd gear shudder update and clutch question (stiff clutch) >> >>At 09:16 PM 1/25/05, Bill Townsend wrote: >> >>Hey Don, >> >>I went through the stiff clutch pedal with my 97 328. Bought it used, >>112k and the clutch was original. It engaged pretty high in the pedal >>travel and was very stiff. Made the M3 seem as though it was power >>assisted. Engaged fine and never slipped but knew it was going. Also >>had the annoying clutch pedal creek and slop which I fixed right away >>with the uuc bushing kit and has been awesome since. (25K miles) Got >>the sachs clutch kit for the car and took it apart. Sure enough, the >>friction disk was at min thick. (according to bmw manual) Put the sachs >>kit in and my 4 year old could use the clutch. Very smooth and the >>engagement went back to where I would expect. >> >>--Bill >>96 red M3 >>97 white 328 >> >I'm pretty much resigned to replacing the clutch, which becomes more of a job since I'm >one of those "as long as I'm in the area.." so it will at least include trans-mounts, >guibo, possibly a center bearing and who knows what else. If I had a lift it would be a >DIY (with someone to help with the heavy bits), but I don't think I want to approach >this on ramps, so I've got to save up a bit to pay the labor (figure about 6-8 hours at >my mechanics rate of $60/hour..) > >Guess I gotta do a bit of consulting again.. my mechanic and I charge the same rates, >and I'd rather be setting up computers and networks than wrestling with an exhaust >system.. > >Thanks! > >Don

Reply to: Townsend, William

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#5. lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:51:50 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <motorsports@stroco.com> Subject: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? The question then becomes, how long will the replacement lifters last before they start to tick again? And is there any damage that can be caused by a failing lifter? My 95 M3 with 3.2l and mobil 1 15-50 has had VERY loud lifters for about 5 years and 20+ events. Not sure if that could be related in some way to my head gasket failing twice or not. I have seen mixed results from the baffled oil pan. The big starvation problem occurs under heavy braking. The oil pan baffle seems to make it worse in that scenario. The accusump helps, but I have seen where it did and did not cure the ticking. Not much help, but some more data points for your consideration. Take care, Kris Welhart 95 ///M3 -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:27:15 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? Thanks to all those who responded to this question. It seems like adding baffling to the pan - VAC or TMS, along with possibly replacing the original lifters should help the problem a lot. John

Reply to: Kris Welhart

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 10:35:18 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! While I never used the PF97, I have used the PF90, and was happy with them. Most recently, I tried a set of Porterfield R4 pads. For me, they worked as good, if not slightly better, than the PF90s did, and they have the added benefit of clips to keep the inside pad against the caliper piston. My DE performances have improved over the past two years, so I was driving the car harder than ever, and the R4 was impressive. NOTE: I'm not talking about the "R4-S", which is a street pad. For the E36 M3: AP394 $ 169.00 AP396 $ 119.00 These are the list prices. Porterfield gives discounts to list members. -rb Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:27:11 -0500 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <pbuthmann@gmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! While I've tried the Carbotech pads, I'm generally not a big fan of them. They don't have the strong initial bite of the PF-97s, and their resistance to fade is less than ideal. They're cheaper than the PF-97s (but then again, so is pretty much everybody else), and they don't seem to generate the same corrosive dust. However, I found that they just didn't give me the same pedal feel and consistency that the PF-97's did. Soft pedal and poor initial bite meant I was braking early and often in races....not a good thing. Rather than going the PF-97 route, I went with Hawk HT-14s in the front, and Hawk HT-10s in the rear of my racecar. This provided the best combination of braking when compared to the PF-97s, all for less money. Lifespan on the Carbotechs was ok, though I did find them to have a tendency to leave high spots on the rotors. It's critical to bed them properly though, as they are not 'race ready', like the PF-97s. If they are not bedded properly, they will eat your rotors (and themselves) like Velveeta cheese. Pat -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Low [mailto:gerry@parallel-mkt.com] Sent: January 24, 2005 4:46 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 16:43:21 -0500 From: "Gerry Low" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Jonathan, The Carbotech XP9 pads are $169 and $129 front and rear, respectively. Highlights of the product are as follows: * The initial bite is similar to the PF97 and modulation better. * Similar pad life. * The ceramic compound is not corrosive on wheels, calipers and car paint even after months on washing after a track event. * Easy clean-up with soap and water. * Rotor wear is excellent because the operating temperature starts at 250F. As an added bonus of the low operating temperature, the pads do not have to be taken out for street use. * Integrated spring clips produce no rattling. * Two additional track/race compounds (XP10 and XP11(new)) with more initial bite are available. * One street/autocross compound is available. Simply the best pad I have used in 28 years of Driving Schools. Gerry "Well, I just ordered a set of PF97 brake pads for my front brakes, as I actually liked them better than the 01 compound I tried, but MAN did they increase the prices! Last time I bought these they were under $145 with our discount. The 01s were a bit more, but I wanted to see if they were worth the money. The 97s, WITH our list discount came to $191!! Regular price was in the neighborhood of $220. As much as I love these pads, and they do seem to last quite a while, I think I just might start venturing out into some different brands. The number of track days I can get out of the 97s might very well be worth it, unless anyone's tried a pad that works as well and lasts as long... Anyone? Jonathan L."

Reply to: Ron Buchalski

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#7. RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 08:13:13 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? A fellow list member has done this as well http://www.brazeauracing.com/oilpan.htm KLBurgess John wrote: "Thanks to all those who responded to this question. It seems like adding baffling to the pan - VAC or TMS, along with possibly replacing the original lifters should help the problem a lot."

Reply to: Burgess, Kim L

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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:13:48 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? On Jan 26, 2005, at 8:16 AM, Burgess, Kim L wrote: > A fellow list member has done this as well > http://www.brazeauracing.com/oilpan.htm I have the Turner baffle kit in my E36 325is (M50). I've got a VDO oil pressure gauge as well as a Big Frickin' Idiot Light (aka ABL - Hi Jim!) connected to a 30 psi sender. Before the baffle I'd get the light flickering or coming on in the following places at Thunderhill: - braking into 2 - braking into 5 - braking into 11 Now I *maybe* get it braking into 11, depending on how hot the lap is. Remember, that's with a 30 psi sender. I'm still going to do an Accusump at some point (it's cheap insurance), but the Turner baffle kit made a big difference. It's a big PITA to install, but it's worth it. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:15:56 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! As another data point on the Porterfield R4 pads, I don't care for the performance of those pads at all. On a hot summer day in California, they feel great for about 3 laps and then get progressively worse every lap after that (YMMV). Fade, for me, was dramatic and didn't exactly help with confidence coming into braking zones. I'm a fairly light braker and found that I had to use more and more pedal every turn of every lap. This, however, is on a non-ducted "street" M3. I ran them in an enduro on an HP M3 with ducting, that was a few hundred pounds lighter than mine, AND at night, and they seemed fine. The R4 just doesn't seem to like much heat... at all. I don't think I've ever had PF97s fade on me even on very fast tracks in 110+ degree ambient temps. I do love the R4S (street) pad by Porterfield, and would actually prefer them on a track day over the R4 ("race") pad on my heavy M3 simply because they're more predictable. Jonathan L. From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Reply-To: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:36:12 -0600 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 10:35:18 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! While I never used the PF97, I have used the PF90, and was happy with them. Most recently, I tried a set of Porterfield R4 pads. For me, they worked as good, if not slightly better, than the PF90s did, and they have the added benefit of clips to keep the inside pad against the caliper piston. My DE performances have improved over the past two years, so I was driving the car harder than ever, and the R4 was impressive. NOTE: I'm not talking about the "R4-S", which is a street pad.

Reply to: twisty M3

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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:51:09 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: lifter ticking with dual-pickup oil pump and LTW oil pan? On Wed, January 26, 2005 9:16 am, Mark Dadgar said: > Big Frickin' Idiot Light (aka ABL - Hi > Jim!) Hi Mark! :-) > Now I *maybe* get it braking into 11, depending on how hot the lap is. > Remember, that's with a 30 psi sender. I think I've asked before - do you still have the factory sender as well? Supposedly I also have a 30psi sender, but I believe the factory one is still in. My light comes on at about 15psi, as indicated by the gauge. So either the combination of 30 & stock (7?) is 15, or I was sent a 15psi by mistake. <Shrug>. > It's a big PITA to > install, but it's worth it. I can't recall, did you do that separately, or at the time Bill and I did your main bearings & secured your oil pump nut? Definitely a PITA if you pulled the pan just for that. Jim Bassett

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#11. Re: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! - from Walter J
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 12:51:15 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Holy Price Increase!! twisty M3 wrote: > As another data point on the Porterfield R4 pads, I don't care for the > performance of those pads at all. On a hot summer day in California, > they feel great for about 3 laps and then get progressively worse > every lap after that (YMMV). Fade, for me, was dramatic and didn't > exactly help with confidence coming into braking zones. I'm a fairly > light braker and found that I had to use more and more pedal every > turn of every lap. This is exactly my experience. I replaced my PF-97s w/ R-4s for the last 8 or so days of this season and was disappointed by the feedback from the pedal as well as the fade. The temps were cooler (60s - 70s) and it began after about 5 laps. I have mercilessly abused a set of PF-97s in 99F heat for almost two hours without a cool-down and not had any fade whatsoever (albeit the tires were so greasy after 20 min the brakes weren't working all that hard ;). The R-4 also wears at a much quicker rate - so even with the increase - I'll be buying 97s again.

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