E36M3 #4102

Friday, January 28, 2005 12:47:11

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup - from Chester Wong
#2. Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup - from cteague@cox.net
#3. looking for an AMSOIL dealer... - from Chris Papademetrious
#4. Re: [E36M3] Control arm quandry - from James Clay
#5. RE: Rear Control Arm bushing tool - from James Clay
#6. Rear Control Arm bushing tool - from Mo Karamat
#7. Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace - from Eric Fesler
#8. Mirrors and Such - from david kroth
#9. Re: [E36M3] Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace - from Jim Bassett
#10. Re: [E36M3] Mirrors and Such - from Jim Bassett

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#1. Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 16:53:25 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup Gotcha. But the key point is you knew what you were doing and experimented to find the optimal setting for what you had. What I'm scared of is people showing up thinking that the adjustability is similar to PSS-9s. ...and I have seen people who don't know much show up to the autox/track and crank the rebound on SAs all the way up in the front and rear with no thought about what it's doing to the car's dynamics. I was making a generalization way in the beginning, btw. Of course, experienced folks will use every trick to reap the fastest times :) Chester --- cteague@cox.net wrote: > When I first ran SCCA stock class, I ran single adjustable > Koni's full stiff (rebound) in the rear. I tried several > adjustments, and that was the fastest. When I switched > to doubles (which were valved stiffer in rebound anyway), > I lowered the rebound setting some, and then increased > the compression. So neither compression nor rebound was > full stiff with doubles. The double adjustable is actually > a nice thing for stock class, since you can run close to > optimum rebound settings, and play with the compression > to allow for tuning that would not otherwise be legal in > stock class. > > Currently, I am running a class that allows spring and > bar changes, so I just set the rebound to match the > springs, and play with compression. But now I can change > sway bar settings, camber, and other things to do it right. > And it's faster now too. ;-) > > Chris > 97 M3/4 =====

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#2. Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 20:03:59 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup Chester, Absolutely true. Testing is key to finding out what works, and what doesn't. Also, FWIW, with stock suspension, and Koni SA's, running up the rebound in front more than the optimum just made it plow worse. ;-) Chris > Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 16:53:25 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Re: [E36M3] Suspension Setup > > Gotcha. But the key point is you knew what you were doing and experimented to > find the optimal setting for what you had. What I'm scared of is people > showing up thinking that the adjustability is similar to PSS-9s. ...and I have > seen people who don't know much show up to the autox/track and crank the > rebound on SAs all the way up in the front and rear with no thought about what > it's doing to the car's dynamics. > > I was making a generalization way in the beginning, btw. Of course, > experienced folks will use every trick to reap the fastest times :) > > Chester

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#3. looking for an AMSOIL dealer... - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 20:43:57 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: looking for an AMSOIL dealer... I'm considering switching my vehicles over to AMSOIL synthetic oil. Are there any dealers in or near northeastern PA? Or is the product actually drop-shipped from the company, and it doesn't matter where the dealer is located? I'm going to try to get a buddy of mine in on this. We'd probably be looking at 20-30 quarts or so. Please respond privately. Thanks, - Chris

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Control arm quandry - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 21:40:27 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Control arm quandry Torque these to the correct torque, not megatight so they don't fall off. This seems to be the root of most failures. It is hard to get a wrench in there, but worth it... James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648

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#5. RE: Rear Control Arm bushing tool - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 21:43:47 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: Rear Control Arm bushing tool We are making a tool for the outer bearing/bushing placement. It isn't powdercoated or finished to a pristine finish, but it is $10. http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Product=580 James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648

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#6. Rear Control Arm bushing tool - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 21:42:18 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Rear Control Arm bushing tool Chris, Hello.. I have not ordered this yet, but at some point I probably will.. Take a look.. You will need to scroll down the page a bit.. http://www.victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm Mo -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 17:10:14 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Rear Control Arm bushing tool All, Thanks to Bimmerworld, I have new powerflex rear subframe bushings, and new rear control arm bushings on the way. I already have the trailing arm bushings. I have the trailing arm bushing tool, and the subframe bushing tool that I can borrow. But I also need the rear control arm bushing tool to remove and replace the inner (rubber bushings), and outer (bmw ball joints). I know Eric rented this (for the outer ones at least) from Koala Motorsport. Does anyone know where you can buy this tool? Is it the same tool for the inner ones as for the outer ones? I've already asked Koala, but was wondering if someone else knows also. Google has failed me. I can find lots of trailing arm bushing tools, and several subframe bushing tools, but no rear control arm tools for the E36. Lots of front ones though. Chris 97 M3

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#7. Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace - from Eric Fesler
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Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 20:01:30 -0800 From: Eric Fesler <eric@fesler.org> Subject: Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace I am replacing the clutch and flywheel among other items on the M3. I wanted to do all the other relevant stuff while in the area. I have a guibo and driveshaft bearing on the way. I wanted to get clarification on some of the other items (if anyone knows) The rogue site has a tech tip on fixing a sloppy selector that has this part diagram http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/shifter/selector_rod_pic1_larg e.gif does anyone know names or part numbers for these items? Somone mentioned pilot bearing and rear main crankshaft seal. Are these single items? Will pacific bmw be able to identify them by these names? And does anyone know the name of the part required to be replaced when cleaning (sanding) the hole to fix a 5th gear cold gear shift issue? Lastly, anyone tell me what's involved in engine mount replacement? If it is simple I will pay somone to do it to avoid having to borrow a hoist. If it's involved I will probably go ahead and do it myself. PS I ordered tie rods, hood dampers, E30 ctrl arms,Fctrl arm bushings (GC urethane),rear LCA bushings 8required, O2 sensors,R subframe bushings am I missing anything in this group? On a side note. I can't post to the list from work (fesler@nsc.com)although I receive the journal there. No bounce just doesn't show up on the list. Any ideas? Thanks, Eric

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#8. Mirrors and Such - from david kroth
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Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 08:22:30 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: Mirrors and Such Right (passenger) side mirror stopped heating recently. I looked up the euro part number and it turns out to be the same as the NA part number: 51 16 2 267 224. So the Euro part has the "closer than they appear" script too? It must... Whine: In the past month I lost the left passenger door lock actuator, driver's seat heat (bottom) and the right side mirror heater. Sheesh. Still love the car though. ===== David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! http://my.yahoo.com

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 10:20:31 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Request for info on clutch/flywheel replace On Thu, January 27, 2005 8:06 pm, Eric Fesler said: > The rogue site has a tech tip on fixing a sloppy selector that has this > part diagram > does anyone know names or part numbers for these items? Selector rod gear joint. You can look up the part numbers at RealOEM.com > Somone mentioned pilot bearing and rear main crankshaft seal. Are these > single items? Two separate items. > Will pacific bmw be able to identify them by these names? They should. > And does anyone know the name of the part required to be replaced when > cleaning (sanding) > the hole to fix a 5th gear cold gear shift issue? It's the plastic cover that get mangled in order to remove it (might as well get the circlip as well, just to be safe. Cover lid: 23311224825 Lock ring: 23311224960 (Again, part numbers located from RealOEM.com :-)) > Lastly, anyone tell me what's involved in engine mount replacement? If it > is simple I > will pay somone to do it to avoid having to borrow a hoist. If it's > involved I will > probably go ahead and do it myself. Hmm, that's opposite of how I approach stuff, but whatever :-) My mechanic's replaced motor mounts for me in the course of doing other work. I believe he used a beam across the engine compartment to hold the engine during this job, but can't recall exactly. Also, if you're near Milpitas, check with Ramon at Bavarian Motorsports. I get a lot of my BMW parts from him. Decent prices and very knowledgeable - just had him do some work on the race car. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Mirrors and Such - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 10:41:11 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mirrors and Such On Fri, January 28, 2005 8:26 am, david kroth said: > Right (passenger) side mirror stopped heating > recently. I looked up the euro part number and > it turns out to be the same as the NA part > number: 51 16 2 267 224. So the Euro part has > the "closer than they appear" script too? It > must... Hmmm, I don't recall them being the same part number, but I do recall it being mentioned that the Euro mirror does NOT have the "closer" writing. > Whine: In the past month I lost the left passenger "Left passenger"? :-) > door lock actuator, Sadly, these appear to be "wear items", at least if you're in and out of the car a lot. I've replaced ALL actuators on the M3 since I've owned it, and the driver's door one twice now. Jim Bassett

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