E36M3 #4104

Saturday, January 29, 2005 19:47:12

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Kumho 710's - from Steven Hazard
#2. Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's - from Jeremy Lucas
#3. RE: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding - from Peter H Reinhart
#4. Re: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding - from Mark Dadgar
#5. Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's - from Robert Brooks
#6. Re: [E36M3] Bridgestones on sale at Costco - from Shelhart2@aol.com
#7. RE: Brake Master Cylinder Problems - from Don Eilenberger
#8. Brake Master Cylinder Problems - from Raza Uddin
#9. GOOD DEAL on tires - from Gary Preece
#10. GOOD DEAL on tires - sorry it was supposed to be text - from Gary Preece

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#1. Kumho 710's - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 08:56:15 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@comcast.net> Subject: Kumho 710's Thought some of you might like to see this. MIke is a serious local Solo 2 guy. He runs in both our series and SCCA's. If this size is produced it will be my Solo II tire in the future. These tires will not last as long at the track as the 700's or old Victoracers. They are faster than the A compound Hoosiers. I suspect that the Club Racing crowd will jump on these as well. I personally will not try this tire at DE's after the problems many had with the 700's and even the recall last Summer of this tire due to delamination. The other reason is they won't last long either! From the Bimmerforums> Kumho sizing news -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just got off the phone with Kumho, asking about the timeframe for the various tires coming from Korea. Looks like the 245/45-17, 245/35-18 and 285/30-18 are all expected sometime in May. I then got the surprise announcement of a 245/40-17 size coming at the same time. So now I'm back in a quandary about what size tire to run . I know I want to be on the 710's, but is the weight of the 18's worth it? 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D*``$`+ $````0`! ```-#&*K0OC T06N+ MH&J[\OZ 0GA@)8T?13H#:;5JTTX"Z['M/.1WYO2TVNKGJDEJNR1,Q:@5GM#" MK=.(/A\0F7(6H?XB"0`A^00)"@`!`"P!````$ `0```#11BJT+XP-$%KBZ!J MN_+^@&)]%$!((VE.`C!XFNN4+^O4GCS4[SZ7/T>&91'"0L>=\M5BE K0:&'8 M:4BA#TACZ0M%&,9(`@`A^00)"@`!`"P!````$ `0```#0QBJT+XP-$%KBZ!J MN_+^@$)X8"6-'T4Z`VFU:M-.`NNQ[3SD=^;TM-KJYZI):KLD3,6H%9[0PJW3 MB#X?$)ER%J'^(@D`(?D$"0H``0`L`0```! `$ ```T48JM"^,#1!:XN@:KOR M_H!B?11 2"-I3@(P>)KKE"_KU)X\U.\^ES]'AF41PD+'G?+58I0*T&AAV&E( MH0](8^D+11C&2 (`(?D$"0H``0`L`0```! `$ ```T,8JM"^,#1!:XN@:KOR M_H!">& EC1]%.@-IM6K33@+KL>T\Y'?F]+3:ZN>J26J[)$S%J!6>T,*MTX@^ M'Q"9<A:A_B()`"'Y! D*``$`+ $````0`! ```-%&*K0OC T06N+H&J[\OZ M8GT40$@C:4X",'B:ZY0OZ]2>/-3O/I<_1X9E$<)"QYWRU6*4"M!H8=AI2*$/ M2&/I"T48QD@"`"'Y! D*``$`+ $````0`! ```-#&*K0OC T06N+H&J[\OZ M0GA@)8T?13H#:;5JTTX"Z['M/.1WYO2TVNKGJDEJNR1,Q:@5GM#"K=.(/A\0 MF7(6H?XB"0`A^00)"@`!`"P!````$ `0```#11BJT+XP-$%KBZ!JN_+^@&)] M%$!((VE.`C!XFNN4+^O4GCS4[SZ7/T>&91'"0L>=\M5BE K0:&'8:4BA#TAC MZ0M%&,9(`@`A^00)"@`!`"P!````$ `0```#0QBJT+XP-$%KBZ!JN_+^@$)X M8"6-'T4Z`VFU:M-.`NNQ[3SD=^;TM-KJYZI):KLD3,6H%9[0PJW3B#X?$)ER M%J'^(@D`(?D$"0H``0`L`0```! `$ ```T48JM"^,#1!:XN@:KOR_H!B?11 M2"-I3@(P>)KKE"_KU)X\U.\^ES]'AF41PD+'G?+58I0*T&AAV&E(H0](8^D+ M11C&2 (`(?D$"0H``0`L`0```! `$ ```T,8JM"^,#1!:XN@:KOR_H!">& E MC1]%.@-IM6K33@+KL>T\Y'?F]+3:ZN>J26J[)$S%J!6>T,*MTX@^'Q"9<A:A M_B()`"'Y! D*``$`+ $````0`! ```-%&*K0OC T06N+H&J[\OZ 8GT40$@C M:4X",'B:ZY0OZ]2>/-3O/I<_1X9E$<)"QYWRU6*4"M!H8=AI2*$/2&/I"T48 MQD@"`"'Y! D*``$`+ $````0`! ```-#&*K0OC T06N+H&J[\OZ 0GA@)8T? M13H#:;5JTTX"Z['M/.1WYO2TVNKGJDEJNR1,Q:@5GM#"K=.(/A\0F7(6H?XB M"0`A^00)"@`!`"P!````$ `0```#11BJT+XP-$%KBZ!JN_+^@&)]%$!((VE. M`C!XFNN4+^O4GCS4[SZ7/T>&91'"0L>=\M5BE K0:&'8:4BA#TACZ0M%&,9( D`@`A_AT!`````0````$````!`````0````$````!`````0`[ ` end

Reply to: Steven Hazard <98m3@comcast.net>

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 11:22:37 -0500 From: Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's While you are correct that these are very good autocross tire, you might want to be a little more careful about posting mis-information on track use, especially on something you self-admittedly have no experience with them. They, in fact, last much longer at the track than victoracers. This is from my personal experience at SCCA Nationals & the Runoffs. The tires I used all week at the Runoffs have since been used for 2 NASA race weekends and a SCCA licensing school weekend and are now slightly beyond the point where they should have been flipped. I would have flipped them before the school but the guy using them that weekend ran out of time before hand. I also ran a set at a tire test day, earlier in the year, for about 6 hours at race pace (no rotation and no flipping) and only wore the front outside shoulder about 60% (FWD car). Victoracers would have been done after 3 hours at the same pace (ran those last year). It was pretty amazing that these tires stuck better and last longer than other Kumhos but I've been there/done that and it's a fact. They do like lower pressures at the track than typical (less than 40 hot). If your not running at a National race pace, you will get even more life from them (track days,etc..). Can't wait for the new sizes. :) Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Steven Hazard wrote: >Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 08:56:15 -0500 >From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@comcast.net> >Subject: Kumho 710's > >Thought some of you might like to see this. MIke is a serious local Solo 2 >guy. He runs in both our series and SCCA's. > >If this size is produced it will be my Solo II tire in the future. These >tires will not last as long at the track as the 700's or old Victoracers. >They are faster than the A compound Hoosiers. I suspect that the Club Racing >crowd will jump on these as well. > >I personally will not try this tire at DE's after the problems many had with >the 700's and even the recall last Summer of this tire due to delamination. >The other reason is they won't last long either! >

Reply to: Jeremy Lucas

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding - from Peter H Reinhart
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 13:08:59 -0500 From: "Peter H Reinhart" <reinhart@neuro.duke.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding Wow...... that's a blast from the past. I wrote that a few years ago - but the same high density padding is still in place in my M3! Mine came with adhesive strips on the back. The black has turned to dark gray but still adheres well after 4+ years and matches my dove gray interior well (I also powdercoated my roll bars gray)... Cheers, Peter H Reinhart '91 325is '98 M3 '91 911 -----Original Message----- From: Jason Knight [mailto:knight2244@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 6:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 15:19:04 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding I did a google search on sfi 45.1 roll bar padding a digest entry came up: http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2000_09_digest_484%20584/digest580.htm#2 Good reading, and some places to look at the end. My simple search leads me to believe that you can only get the good stuff in black, red, or blue. Maybe match the outside of your car?

Reply to: Peter H Reinhart

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 10:47:22 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roll Bar Padding On Jan 29, 2005, at 10:16 AM, Peter H Reinhart wrote: > Wow...... that's a blast from the past. I wrote that a few years ago - > but > the same high density padding is still in place in my M3! I saved your post and forward it to people on a regular basis. :) - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar

Reply to: Mark Dadgar

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#5. Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's - from Robert Brooks
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:24:06 -0700 From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> Subject: Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's I am in the process of installing externally adjustable rear Koni SA's with Rogue RSM's. The RSM's are advertised to accommodate the larger 12mm shaft via removing the little metal spacer cylinder from the RSM's. I am putting the RSM onto the shock outside of the car. Problem is, without that spacer in there to resist compression, only the rubber bushings provide the resistance, and they are getting the bejeezus squeezed out of 'em at well under the 37 ft-lbs of torque spec'ed by Koni. Think I should be concerned about that? It seems like this is way more static compression than the rubber would ordinarily be under.

Reply to: Robert Brooks

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Bridgestones on sale at Costco - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:28:05 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bridgestones on sale at Costco I bought them there and the tires have been great. Make sure you get a good installer... Shel

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#7. RE: Brake Master Cylinder Problems - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 19:40:46 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Opps... Raza killed a master cylinder.. >What are the symptoms of a failed/failing master cylinder? Exactly what you describe below, and I'll tell you why it failed now.. >After changing pads and bleeding my car for a weekend at Thunderhill, >I was greeted with a spongy pedal and fluid underneath the car when >trying to bed in the pads. Needless to say, I wasn't going to take >the chance driving the M3 at the track. I found that the area where >the master cylinder is attached to the booster is moist and is >draining Motul RBF600 with the aplomb of a leaky faucet. I'm pretty >confident that the master cylinder is gone (and a search of the >archives agrees). > >Are there any write-ups of the procedure? Is it a relatively easy DIY >job? Any helpful things to look out for when doing the procedure? >Any other items that should be done/replaced while I am in there? > >Thanks in advance! >Drive Safely, >Raza I'm making a WAG that you did manual bleeding of the system? This is probably the most frequent reason for master-cylinder failure, especially with brakes. What happens is: 1. You only "use" the master cylinder in normal use over a fairly small part of the bore. The rest of the bore is just sitting there. 2. The part sitting there can be attacked by any moisture trapped in the brake fluid - rusting or corroding. 3. When you bleed by hand (or foot) - you tend to push the pedal further down than it ever travels in normal use.. so the seals now get to meet up with either crud, or the rusted and pitted part of the bore. They don't like this, and usually within a few weeks start to leak - sometimes (as yours did) they start sooner. As far as tips - it will be LOTS easier to bleed all the air out of the system after changing the MC if you build a power-brake-bleeder. Jim Powell had an excellent design that cost about $10 to make. Several vendors have copied his design, added fancy graphics and are selling them for $40-80. I made my own - total cost was about $12.00. It is a WONDERFUL tool to have. Here is the link to Jim's article: http://www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHomepage/Bleeder/bleeder.html My other hint - but flare-nut wrenches before even thinking about trying to loosen the brake lines from the cylinder. The fittings tend to be rather soft and like to booger (tech-term) up when attacked with a regular open-end wrench. The flare nut wrench grabs more flats and encircles the fitting, so it doesn't booger up. HTH, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S

Reply to: Don Eilenberger

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#8. Brake Master Cylinder Problems - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 16:58:50 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@verizon.net> wrote: > Opps... Raza killed a master cylinder.. Oops is right. And it cost me a track weekend :( > I'm making a WAG that you did manual bleeding of the system? Your guess is right- I did do a manual bleed of the system. I've done the procedure hundreds of times on my E36 325i and countless other makes/models. > This is probably the most frequent reason for master-cylinder > failure, especially with brakes. > > What happens is: > > 1. You only "use" the master cylinder in normal use over a > fairly small part of the bore. The rest of the bore is just > sitting there. > > 2. The part sitting there can be attacked by any moisture > trapped in the brake fluid - rusting or corroding. > > 3. When you bleed by hand (or foot) - you tend to push the > pedal further down than it ever travels in normal use.. so > the seals now get to meet up with either crud, or the > rusted and pitted part of the bore. They don't like this, > and usually within a few weeks start to leak - sometimes > (as yours did) they start sooner. Your explanation definitely makes sense. > As far as tips - it will be LOTS easier to bleed all the > air out of the system after changing the MC if you build > a power-brake-bleeder. Jim Powell had an excellent design > that cost about $10 to make. Several vendors have copied his > design, added fancy graphics and are selling them for > $40-80. I made my own - total cost was about $12.00. It > is a WONDERFUL tool to have. Interestingly enough, I bought a pressure bleeder a year or two ago but never felt 100% confident in its abilities to give me the best bleed. It might have been my technique, but the one time I did use it didn't give a very confident pedal that I felt comfortable taking to the track. That said, I've performed hundreds of brake bleeds and it comes second nature and I am fanatical about getting air out the system. It might be wise to change my approach for my master cylinder's sake... > My other hint - but flare-nut wrenches before even thinking > about trying to loosen the brake lines from the cylinder. > The fittings tend to be rather soft and like to booger (tech-term) > up when attacked with a regular open-end wrench. The flare nut > wrench grabs more flats and encircles the fitting, so it doesn't > booger up. I know exactly what you mean. After changing many brake lines, I now swear by them. A heat gun and a flare nut wrench are essential to not boogering up your lines. Now I just need to find a good price on a master cylinder. Pelican seems to have the best prices on everything except what I need... Drive Safely, Raza

Reply to: Raza Uddin

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#9. GOOD DEAL on tires - from Gary Preece
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:43:17 -0500 From: "Gary Preece" <gary.preece@insightbb.com> Subject: GOOD DEAL on tires Hello all, Just FYI Michelin Pilot Sports are currently $127 at Discounttiredirect.com. I already have a set that I bought not too long ago to replace my Kuhmo MX's when winter is over. I love the MX's for the price. I currently am running Dunlop M3's in 205/55/16 and had no problem when we got 15 inches last month here in southern IN except when I was plowing snow. I did push lose the grill in the lower part of the front bumper/air dam. Need to fix that some day. Hey Kurt. Gary Clarksville, IN

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#10. GOOD DEAL on tires - sorry it was supposed to be text - from Gary Preece
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:45:30 -0500 From: "Gary Preece" <gary.preece@insightbb.com> Subject: GOOD DEAL on tires - sorry it was supposed to be text Hello all, Just FYI Michelin Pilot Sports are currently $127 at Discounttiredirect.com. I already have a set that I bought not too long ago to replace my Kuhmo MX's when winter is over. I love the MX's for the price. I currently am running Dunlop M3's in 205/55/16 and had no problem when we got 15 inches last month here in southern IN except when I was plowing snow. I did push lose the grill in the lower part of the front bumper/air dam. Need to fix that some day. Hey Kurt. Gary Clarksville, IN

Reply to: Gary Preece

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