E36M3 #4106

Sunday, January 30, 2005 13:06:05

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Track Trailer - from Wayne Miller
#2. OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Walter J
#3. Re: Mastyer cylinder problem - from RonStygar@aol.com
#4. Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's - from Steven Hazard
#5. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Bruce
#6. DentFest 2005 in NJ.. - from Don Eilenberger
#7. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Chris Papademetrious
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Mastyer cylinder problem - from Raza Uddin
#9. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Jay W. Hudson
#10. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Walter J

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Track Trailer - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 09:29:11 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Track Trailer I don't know what the status of the South Sport trailers company is now but when I looked into purchasing one a few years ago the trailer was about $800 but shipping from Florida to NJ was about $400 so I passed. I built a Harbor Freight trailer based on directions found here: http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=184654&hl=trailer and it turned out great. Unfortunately there is no place to mount a hitch to my E46 M3 so the trailer has been sitting in the backyard for a long time. If you are anywhere near NJ and interested, let me know. -Wayne

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#2. OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Walter J
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:34:01 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: OT: Tow Vehicle Advice I had solicited tons of advice on what to buy to pull my M3 to the track with... but... er... somehow I forgot that a bunch of you guys would know better than the general public. Here is my deal: - I run anywhere between 7 & 12 events a year, usually less that 300miles one way. - one of these days JBWeld ain't gonna be enough to get home ;) - I want to go to tracks that are outside the distance I'm willing to drive with 5 wheels/tires, tools, and all the other assorted gear rattling around my interior. - I want an unlicensed, uninsured track car - prevented (obviously) by my need to drive it to the track - I will also need to use the truck as my daily driver (~400mi/wk) because my wife is completely disgusted with my misdirection of home decor funding for automobile transactions. - I will have a nice, dependable 88 535is/5sp wearing snows for sale soon - I HATE big trucks - I don't want to spend big $. ($19,999.99 is the current absolute max, including trailer) Advice so far (distilled from Roadfly, GRM, and neighbors with no relevant experience): F250/350 diesel - Drove one and there is NO WAY that monster is a daily driver. 3500 Chevy - see F250/F350 BAD (Big-ass dodge) - see 3500 Chevy My own personal plan: I got a really good deal in the works on a 2002 Toyota Tundra V8/Crew cab with a tow rating of 7800lbs. Good enough that I can make my number and have enough left over to change the oil. That is more than enough capacity for an M3 on an open trailer with a tire bar, tools & fuel by my math. Oh, and it gets 18MPG on the highway... where most of the others could only wish for 14 - turns around in less than a football field and only weighs 4k. So, am I nuts or is most of the advice I've got thus far just overkill? I would HATE to drive a bus to work every day just to tow well a couple days a year. My math says I need 6000lbs capacity. Am I missing something that experienced towers learn the hard way or am I fine? after all, I have seen people pulling cars with a Volvo XC90, a Toureg, and once... a Bonneville. -- Walter

Reply to: Walter J

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#3. Re: Mastyer cylinder problem - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:56:45 EST From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Mastyer cylinder problem Looked at www.realoem.com (ETK on line with prices..) looks like list price is $413 or so... so it's "special".. >>>Pricing on realoem is not suggested retail. Suggested retail on master cylinder 34 31 2 227 466 is $537.50.

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:59:55 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's Jeremy, I stand corrected :-) If what you say is the case Kumho has created a true dual purpose tire. I'm not doubting your experience with them, but I'm still skeptical of their ability to maintain peak adhesion for lengthy periods of time. Time will tell when the sizes become available. That's what I meant about lasting as long. I have experience on VictoRacers, 700's, Hoosier A & R compounds, along with Toyo RA1's. The new 710 has won over many Solo II Hoosier users because it is running a few tenths faster than the NEW Hoosiers. I have kept tire logs for all the above tires. I'm currently at 64 autocross runs on my new A3S04's and usually get about 80-85 runs out of the older A3S03's. The A3S03's are fastest the second heat cycle (day) and then settle down for the remainder of their life(very small fall off each day after #2 probably in the 100's of a second), until they fall of drastically at the end of their life. I do not have enough data yet on the newer S04's to see if they last any longer, or shorter period of time. They are faster than the S03's but have less turn response and are not as "crisp" as the older tire was. They also do not have as much feedback at the older tire. Most of my Kumho experience is at DE's in either my own car, or with a few others as well. In your post you don't tell us what car(s) you were driving on the 710's and how well set up the chassis was either. R compound life is very dependent on proper camber set up and hot TP's. I'm currently running on a set of R3S03's on my car at DE's and they will indeed "last" a long time BUT after 3 days of DE's are no longer 100%. Sure they still stick better than a street tire, but they by no means are going to be effective if I wanted to SOLO 1, or Club Race on them at this point.. If any of the Club Racers on this list want to chime in on Hoosier R experience please do so :-) Mike? Dave? Others? I wonder how well the new Kumho sticks after 6 hours compared to a Toyo RA1 after six hours? See my point? Also how competitive are they after 60 Solo 2 runs vs the new Hoosiers. We will know the answers to those questions as the 05 season gets rolling. It sure is good to hear that you went 6 hours on a set and I should have explained myself better in my post. After 80-85 runs on Hoosiers they still have plenty of tread left, just no more heat cycles. They no longer are competitve AT ALL. Did you have a lap timer in your car for the 6 hour test day? Steve > Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 11:22:37 -0500 > From: Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho 710's > > While you are correct that these are very good autocross tire, you might > want to be a little more careful about posting mis-information on track > use, especially on something you self-admittedly have no experience with > them. They, in fact, last much longer at the track than victoracers. > This is from my personal experience at SCCA Nationals & the Runoffs. > The tires I used all week at the Runoffs have since been used for 2 NASA > race weekends and a SCCA licensing school weekend and are now slightly > beyond the point where they should have been flipped. I would have > flipped them before the school but the guy using them that weekend ran > out of time before hand. > I also ran a set at a tire test day, earlier in the year, for about 6 > hours at race pace (no rotation and no flipping) and only wore the front > outside shoulder about 60% (FWD car). Victoracers would have been done > after 3 hours at the same pace (ran those last year). It was pretty > amazing that these tires stuck better and last longer than other Kumhos > but I've been there/done that and it's a fact. They do like lower > pressures at the track than typical (less than 40 hot). If your not > running at a National race pace, you will get even more life from them > (track days,etc..). > > Can't wait for the new sizes. :) > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 >

Reply to: Steven Hazard <98m3@comcast.net>

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#5. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Bruce
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:18:57 -0600 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice I personally wouldn't buy any truck that I was going to tow with if it wasn't a diesel. You might get 18 mpg with the gas powered one, but once you tow you probably get 6-8...the diesel will have no drop off in MPG when towing. The extra torque is nice especially if you are towing up hills. It sounds like you have already made up your mind however. Bruce ----- Original Message ----- From: "Walter J" <m3gtr@adelphia.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 10:36 AM Subject: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice > Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:34:01 -0500 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: OT: Tow Vehicle Advice > > I had solicited tons of advice on what to buy to pull my M3 to the track > with... but... er... somehow I forgot that a bunch of you guys would know > better than the general public. > > Here is my deal: > - I run anywhere between 7 & 12 events a year, usually less that 300miles > one way. > - one of these days JBWeld ain't gonna be enough to get home ;) > - I want to go to tracks that are outside the distance I'm willing to > drive with 5 wheels/tires, tools, and all the other assorted gear rattling > around my interior. > - I want an unlicensed, uninsured track car - prevented (obviously) by my > need to drive it to the track > - I will also need to use the truck as my daily driver (~400mi/wk) because > my wife is completely disgusted with my misdirection of home decor funding > for automobile transactions. > - I will have a nice, dependable 88 535is/5sp wearing snows for sale soon > - I HATE big trucks > - I don't want to spend big $. ($19,999.99 is the current absolute max, > including trailer) > > Advice so far (distilled from Roadfly, GRM, and neighbors with no relevant > experience): > F250/350 diesel - Drove one and there is NO WAY that monster is a daily > driver. > 3500 Chevy - see F250/F350 > BAD (Big-ass dodge) - see 3500 Chevy > > My own personal plan: > I got a really good deal in the works on a 2002 Toyota Tundra V8/Crew cab > with a tow rating of 7800lbs. Good enough that I can make my number and > have enough left over to change the oil. That is more than enough capacity > for an M3 on an open trailer with a tire bar, tools & fuel by my math. Oh, > and it gets 18MPG on the highway... where most of the others could only > wish for 14 - turns around in less than a football field and only weighs > 4k. So, am I nuts or is most of the advice I've got thus far just > overkill? I would HATE to drive a bus to work every day just to tow well a > couple days a year. My math says I need 6000lbs capacity. Am I missing > something that experienced towers learn the hard way or am I fine? after > all, I have seen people pulling cars with a Volvo XC90, a Toureg, and > once... a Bonneville. > > -- > Walter

Reply to: Bruce

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#6. DentFest 2005 in NJ.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 12:26:33 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: DentFest 2005 in NJ.. Folks, I believe it was a success. It was for me - the dent in the top of my drivers side fender that was pissing me off every time I got to get in the car is now GONE. It was good meeting fellow bimmerheads - we had come from quite a distance with their E39's, E36/M3's and one Honda S2000 (by an M3 owner.. Hi Dave!) Our cars were massaged back to dent-free state by Brian Romer, who did some wonderful work, and we had a very informative demonstration on loving your car's paint (it is hard to describe it otherwise) by Erich Lipinski. Great info on how to really make your paint look better than new, and a great demo of doing it. I want to thank Rob Levinson of UUC Motorwerks for hosting Dentfest, and giving us a place inside for the work to be done. Rob also provided donuts and coffee for the crowd. Rob never hesitated when asked for help, and he made everyone feel very welcome. His enthusiasm for BMW's is obvious. I've been asked to consider doing another one in the spring, and if there is enough interest I'll try and set something up (but hopefully won't need MY cars de-dented..) I have some more ideas on other "car care" topics that might be neat to see if I can track down the people who do them. Thanks again to ALL who attended. It was great fun putting faces with names! Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S

Reply to: Don Eilenberger

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#7. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 12:35:18 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispitude@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice Bruce wrote: > Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:18:57 -0600 > From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice > > I personally wouldn't buy any truck that I was going to tow with if it > wasn't a diesel. You might get 18 mpg with the gas powered one, but > once you tow you probably get 6-8...the diesel will have no drop off in > MPG when towing. The extra torque is nice especially if you are towing > up hills. It sounds like you have already made up your mind however. > > Bruce The mileage drop isn't too bad with the Tundras, at least as compared with a comparable domestic. Folks are getting 10-13mpg depending on the aerodynamics of what's being towed. Walter, go join up at http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums and you will find lots of information on towing, fuel economy, reliability, etc. Diesel trucks are terrific as towing vehicles, but they go for a considerable sum even used. - Chris

Reply to: Chris Papademetrious

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Mastyer cylinder problem - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 09:40:58 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Mastyer cylinder problem Ron, Thanks for the info. More interesting is that the master cylinder and and reservoir are sold separately. Is it worth my time and money now to replace it with a new reservoir? All the places I think I've quoted just sell the master cylinder I've had to replace 2 brake master cylinders on 2 different Nissan 300zx Twin Turbos and for around $200 each, Nissan gave me a new master cylinder, reservoir, caps, gaskets, nuts, and washers for a complete replacement. I'm surprised BMW and other vendors don't sell a replacement "kit" with everything one needs to replace it. Drive Safely, Raza - whose fix-it cost just went up another $100 On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:06:03 -0600, RonStygar@aol.com <RonStygar@aol.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:56:45 EST > From: RonStygar@aol.com > Subject: Re: Mastyer cylinder problem > > Looked at www.realoem.com (ETK on line with prices..) looks > like list price is $413 or so... so it's "special".. > >>>Pricing on realoem is not suggested retail. > Suggested retail on master cylinder 34 31 2 227 466 is $537.50. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#9. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 09:29:35 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice No experience with Toyota trucks. If you'll be driving in mountains, consider torque too. I have an '03 GMC 2500HD (6l gas, 4x4) and steel 18' trailer (~2K lbs). Just towed my M3 from southern Oregon down to the bay area to have cage installed. Towed like a dream but it did have to work some to get over the Siskiyous (summit 4200') using cruise. You're right about the gas mileage. But, as for comfort, I'd love to use it as a daily driver. Jay > Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:34:01 -0500 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: OT: Tow Vehicle Advice > > I had solicited tons of advice on what to buy to pull my M3 to the track > with... but... er... somehow I forgot that a bunch of you guys would > know better than the general public. > > Here is my deal: > - I run anywhere between 7 & 12 events a year, usually less that > 300miles one way. > - one of these days JBWeld ain't gonna be enough to get home ;) > - I want to go to tracks that are outside the distance I'm willing to > drive with 5 wheels/tires, tools, and all the other assorted gear > rattling around my interior. > - I want an unlicensed, uninsured track car - prevented (obviously) by > my need to drive it to the track > - I will also need to use the truck as my daily driver (~400mi/wk) > because my wife is completely disgusted with my misdirection of home > decor funding for automobile transactions. > - I will have a nice, dependable 88 535is/5sp wearing snows for sale soon > - I HATE big trucks > - I don't want to spend big $. ($19,999.99 is the current absolute max, > including trailer) > > Advice so far (distilled from Roadfly, GRM, and neighbors with no > relevant experience): > F250/350 diesel - Drove one and there is NO WAY that monster is a daily > driver. > 3500 Chevy - see F250/F350 > BAD (Big-ass dodge) - see 3500 Chevy > > My own personal plan: > I got a really good deal in the works on a 2002 Toyota Tundra V8/Crew > cab with a tow rating of 7800lbs. Good enough that I can make my number > and have enough left over to change the oil. That is more than enough > capacity for an M3 on an open trailer with a tire bar, tools & fuel by > my math. Oh, and it gets 18MPG on the highway... where most of the > others could only wish for 14 - turns around in less than a football > field and only weighs 4k. So, am I nuts or is most of the advice I've > got thus far just overkill? I would HATE to drive a bus to work every > day just to tow well a couple days a year. My math says I need 6000lbs > capacity. Am I missing something that experienced towers learn the hard > way or am I fine? after all, I have seen people pulling cars with a > Volvo XC90, a Toureg, and once... a Bonneville. > > -- > Walter

Reply to: Jay W. Hudson

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#10. Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice - from Walter J
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Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2005 14:02:59 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT: Tow Vehicle Advice Bruce wrote: > I personally wouldn't buy any truck that I was going to tow with if it > wasn't a diesel. You might get 18 mpg with the gas powered one, but > once you tow you probably get 6-8...the diesel will have no drop off > in MPG when towing. The extra torque is nice especially if you are > towing up hills. It sounds like you have already made up your mind > however. Yeah, you may be right... It does seem like I've already committed to giving the Toy a try from my last post. Honestly, I started out looking specifically for a diesel... (for no other reason than that it seemed logical) but where I live it has been between 10F & -10F almost every single night this year with day temps climbing into the low teens at best. Even with a block heater - I'd be nuts to think it was a practical solution for me (so says "Ross the Ford guy"). The trucks equipped with them are too big for my garage - short of leaving it run all night I'd pretty much be facing jelly filled injectors every day.... and since they are only available in the biggest of trucks, all the other "I HATE big trucks" negatives come in to play. I imagine myself attempting to bob-n-weave thru NYC/Philly rush traffic in an F-350 7.3d only to find it won't fit in any of the parking garages. In a perfect world I could just beef up the E28 to tow... how cool would I look coming in the gates at the Glen pulling an M3 with a 535? (ok, not cool at all but different at least ;) -- Walter

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