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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rad or oil catch can needed for 98 M3 in CR? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 11:30:06 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rad or oil catch can needed for 98 M3 in CR? On Mon, January 31, 2005 11:26 am, Vern Anderson said: > Hello all, I'm finishing off my 98 M3 into an IP car > for BMWCCA CR. Both the radiator overflow and oil > breather seem to be closed (not venting to the > atmosphere). Does anyone know if that is the case and > if I need to add a catch can for either? AFAIK, that is the case, and catch cans are not required. This is my experience with the M50-motored 325is. Jim Bassett
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#2. Kill switch location - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 11:32:52 -0800 (PST) From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Kill switch location Sorry for all of the Club Racing questions, I'm also posting these to the BMWCCA CR forums, just not sure how active that forum is. Second CR question - anyone care to share any good advice on how/where to mount a kill switch in an 98 E36 M3/2? Car will remain street legal (just not very streetable) and SCCA Solo SM legal for a another year or so. Complete front interior still intact (minus airbags :), race seats, TCKline cage. Haven't mounted the window net yet. Installing fire system, so I'll need to make sure that stays powered even when the kill switch is activated. Would like the kill switch to be accessable to me when belted in if possible. Switch needs to be mounted or able to be moved to the inside of the car so the windows can be rolled up and the car locked. Should be able to figure out something, just don't want to re-invent the wheel if someone out there has already done it. Thanks! Vern Anderson
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#3. Re: Kill switch location - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 11:39:33 -0800 (PST) From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kill switch location While I'm posting BMWCCA CR questions, I might as well ask all of them, right? OK, here goes - I'm installing a FireCharger fire system (http://thedynoshop.net/firecharger.htm) in my 98 M3 IP car, and was wondering if anyone has any mounting/install advice. And for that matter, if anyone has any experience with that system (it's great, it sucks, whatever). Thanks! Vern Anderson
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 Front Strut part Number - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 15:12:10 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 Front Strut part Number At 02:36 PM 1/31/2005, Kevin wrote: >I've done some more research on these M3 front struts and for the sake of >the archives or anybody else who was interested I thought I'd pass it along. >There were two parts listed in the ETK for each side and the prices between >the two varied significantly. I've now been told that the "F+S" notation on >one set (PN ending in 307 and 308) is the name of the manufacturer of these >struts (though I cannot find any such company on the web). The other set >(PN ending with 988/987) are the BOGE struts that our cars came with, though >the replacements supposedly may be made by BMW now, not BOGE. WAG as to F+S = http://www.zfsachs.com/direkt.php?link=owx_7_99687_2_6_0_00000000000000.html >If anybody can call BS on any of this, please do, it's just what I've been >told by a knowledgeable-sounding dealer after talking to a lot of distinctly >not knowledgeable folks. > >I checked the original struts on my car and although they have a big BOGE >emblem on them, there isn't a part number anywhere to be found. :( > >Kevin Best, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#5. F&S - from Jim
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 12:25:23 -0800 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: F&S F&S was Fitchel and Sachs, selling struts made by Boge. Sachs now owns everything, and now Boge makes a few struts and they are sold by Sachs. There are also many other manufacturers making struts that are sold by Sachs. I have no idea what happened to Fitchel. Most "Sachs" struts are made at a new company owned plant in Mexico. Sachs race struts are no longer made, the plant in Italy was bought by an interesting person who may or not turn into something good. -- Jay Morris
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Kill switch location - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 13:04:14 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kill switch location On Mon, January 31, 2005 11:36 am, Vern Anderson said: > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 11:32:52 -0800 (PST) > From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > Subject: Kill switch location > > Sorry for all of the Club Racing questions, I'm also > posting these to the BMWCCA CR forums, just not sure > how active that forum is. Second CR question - anyone > care to share any good advice on how/where to mount a > kill switch in an 98 E36 M3/2? My local fabricator, TC Design, just installed a cut-off switch in the JP car. Installed it on the passenger side, mounted to the main down tube of the roll cage. I can snap a picture or two if you're interested. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - nearly ready for first 2005 race in 3 weeks
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0w-40 - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 13:08:37 -0800 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 0w-40 I've been running 5w40 with no problems at all. I'm in the DC area. You should be fine though, according to this article: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265292 ... maybe the grinding noise is an inidication of something else? Not sure though. ted
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 Front Strut part Number - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:45:41 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Need '95 M3 Front Strut part Number At 03:54 PM 1/31/2005, you wrote: >Don, > >You're absolutely right. I finally got somebody to go put hands on a box >for me and they came back with Fichtel & Sachs. F+S. Duh. I wonder why >they're so much cheaper than the Boge's ($125 vs. $190 ea)? I think I'm >going to find out. > >Thank you, No problem.. >Kevin But - for more surprises.. see: http://www.zf-trading.com/?weiter=1 Click on the "Brands and Product range" on the left side of the page.. we see Sachs, Lemforder AND Boge. Looks like F&S and Boge are close cousins. Go figure..
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#9. Blinker question - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 15:24:07 -0800 (PST) From: Doug Wirth <doug_wirth@yahoo.com> Subject: Blinker question This may be a long shot, but here goes. 99 M3 My left side blinkers stopped working. right side works fine. If I turn on the hazards or the blinkersjust the right side go on. Fuses look to be in good condition. Are there seperate relays for right and left side. If so, where are they. Thanks Doug
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#10. Parts/services reviews? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:17:33 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Parts/services reviews? Anyone here got opinions on parts or services? I ask because JustRacing.com now has a database for that kind of stuff. Searchable and works like the reviews at places like Amazon.com. I've put a some stuff in there already for parts and things I used when building my E36 325is race car and I'm adding more as I think of it. Anyone else? - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:24:41 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II I'm now very confused. After discovering the fluid around the master cylinder and brake booster, I decided that I would just flush the area with water to make sure nothing else bad happens because of the brake fluid. I did this Saturday morning and really didn't have a chance to look at the car since then. Today, I go to the car and wanted to see if the area around the master cylinder was still wet and if the pedal would hold pressure or fall to the floor still. The area, to my surprise, dried up and there were no signs of brake fluid. I pumped the pedal a few times to see if the cylinder would still hold pressure, and with the car off, it gave me a hard pedal, without any leaks. I checked everywhere and there were no leaks around the master cylinder, booster, or any brake lines/bleeder nipples. I decided to take the car out for a quick drive to see if everything was still okay. It seemed over the weekend the pedal stiffened up quite a bit (although it feels like there is a little air in the system) and didn't not fall to the floor when braking. I don't think the booster is bad, as it works fine and regulates the pressure once the engine is turned on. Just possibly the problem might be that I am just a dope. The pads the I replaced were near or below minimum thickness and I think the fluid leak might have been caused when I pushed back the pistons to accept the new, fresh pads. The only thing I am wondering about is why the pedal was so mushy directly after bleeding and for the consequent test drive and after it has been sitting for 2 days, the pedal is somewhat back to normal. What are your opinions? Should I go ahead and replace the master cylinder anyway? Should I stop being paranoid about my car and not jump to the worst possible conclusion? All help/criticism is appreciated! :) Drive Safely, Raza On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:26:03 -0600, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 21:08:35 -0500 > From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems > > At 07:49 PM 1/29/05, Raza replied: > > > > I'm making a WAG that you did manual bleeding of the system? > > > >Your guess is right- I did do a manual bleed of the system. I've done > >the procedure hundreds of times on my E36 325i and countless other > >makes/models. > > It usually doesn't destroy clutch MC's quite as quickly.. since > you use more of the stroke on them with normal use.. and I used > to do that also on lots of cars until someone pointed out to > me that I often had to replace the MC shortly (within a month > usually) of doing this. Doing this with a new MC is OK, since > it hasn't corroded down in the untouched parts of the bore. > > >Interestingly enough, I bought a pressure bleeder a year or two ago > >but never felt 100% confident in its abilities to give me the best > >bleed. > > Interesting since I found I got much better results with one. > I built a new braking system for a motorcycle, with rather > convoluted plumbing since I was adding ABS.. and it had a > lot of odd high-spots in it. It wasn't possible to bleed it > using hand techniques or even vacuum.. it needed the velocity > I could generate with the power bleeder to more or less sweep > some of the air out of nooks and crannies. > > If you use it - one thing I do - that nobody ever mentions > or apparently think about - I use two tie-wraps to make > certain the reservoir for the MC can't pop off due to the > internal pressure. I heard of this happening once, and the > aftermath was painful to the paint on the car. The tie wraps > just have to be snug around the reservoir and the master-cylinder > body and you can snip them off when done. I also never use > more than about 15PSI in the power bleeder. That makes for > a nice flow if you have a wheel bleeder all the way open. > > >It might have been my technique, but the one time I did use it > >didn't give a very confident pedal that I felt comfortable taking to > >the track. That said, I've performed hundreds of brake bleeds and it > >comes second nature and I am fanatical about getting air out the > >system. It might be wise to change my approach for my master > >cylinder's sake... > > Perhaps :-) > > >Now I just need to find a good price on a master cylinder. Pelican > >seems to have the best prices on everything except what I need... > > Monday try Patrick at BMAparts.. www.bmaparts.com - did't see > the MC on his website, but lots of times all it takes is a > phone call. Mention my name - it probably will get you a discount > (he gave our E39 group a code to use for discounts.. I can ask > for one for this group if there is any interest.) > > I also looked at http://www.buybimmerparts.com/ - and it said > call for a quote.. I'm guessing the M3 one is "special".. > I looked up a standard 328iC one - list is $309, price was $168, > so it looks like they give a decent discount. > > Looked at www.realoem.com (ETK on line with prices..) looks > like list price is $413 or so... so it's "special".. > > >Drive Safely, > >Raza > > Best, > > _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ > Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ > NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ > E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ > '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >