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#1. Re: Kill switch location - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 19:54:48 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Kill switch location Mount at the main hoop, passenger side, where the harness bar joins, Easy for a worker, if you have long arms like me you can get it buckled in, or install a remote pull. Convenient due to power wire location as well. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:47:25 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II On Mon, January 31, 2005 4:26 pm, Raza Uddin said: > Just possibly the problem might be that I am just a dope. The pads > the I replaced were near or below minimum thickness and I think the > fluid leak might have been caused when I pushed back the pistons to > accept the new, fresh pads. I would suspect this as the most likely cause. This is 1 of the 1001 uses for a turkey baster <g> - siphoning off excess brake fluid. > The only thing I am wondering about is why the pedal was so mushy > directly after bleeding and for the consequent test drive and after it > has been sitting for 2 days, the pedal is somewhat back to normal. Still air in the system? Possible. Also, remember, until the new. fresh pads are properly bedded in, the brake pedal will feel mushy. Much more noticeable with race pads (I don't recall what pads your were putting on). > What are your opinions? Should I go ahead and replace the master > cylinder anyway? Try this test: Start car; pump the brake pedal a few times, then press and hold. Does it stop and feel firm? Yes? Master cylinder is OK. Does it sink to the floor? Then replace master cyclinder. > Should I stop being paranoid about my car and not > jump to the worst possible conclusion? Dunno, how much do you like having grey hair? :-) A little skepticism/questioning is OK; paranoia can be detrimental :-) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett - many brake fluid flushes; slightly paranoid :-) 1998 M3/4 - due for a brake fluid flush soon 1993 325is #44 JP - *needs* a brake fluid flush (next weekend before Laguna school would be good :-))
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 17:43:43 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 18:55:58 -0600, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > I would suspect this as the most likely cause. Even after the 2 master cylinders I've replaced (albeit they were on Nissans) and the hundreds of times I've bled brakes, I am still a dufus. :) > This is 1 of the 1001 uses for a turkey baster <g> - siphoning off excess > brake fluid. I'm picking it up tonight. > Still air in the system? Possible. It is possible. I am going to bleed the brakes again tonight and see if that helps anything. > Also, remember, until the new. fresh pads are properly bedded in, the > brake pedal will feel mushy. Much more noticeable with race pads (I don't > recall what pads your were putting on). I got a great deal on some Axxis Ultimates so I popped them in. I haven't had a chance to properly bed in the pads, so that is a possibility. The only reason I didn't consider that is because a) they had lots of material on them (brakes should work higher up in the travel) and b) the pedal was mushy like when you boil fluid (long pedal). From my experience, I should have had a firm pedal but the pads should not have been gripping well if it was solely the pads. > Try this test: Start car; pump the brake pedal a few times, then press and > hold. Does it stop and feel firm? Yes? Master cylinder is OK. Does it sink > to the floor? Then replace master cyclinder. The pedal does feel firm. > Dunno, how much do you like having grey hair? :-) > A little skepticism/questioning is OK; paranoia can be detrimental :-) Point well taken. I'd rather be safe than sorry, but I'm kicking myself that I missed the track weekend! > Hope that helps, It certainly does. Thanks for your help! Drive Safely, Raza Uddin
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 20:53:58 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II Raza asked: >I'm now very confused. That's ok.. natural state for me.. >Just possibly the problem might be that I am just a dope. The pads >the I replaced were near or below minimum thickness and I think the >fluid leak might have been caused when I pushed back the pistons to >accept the new, fresh pads. That's entirely possible. I believe BMW designs the reservoir so you don't have to add fluid between worn and new pads, and you shouldn't add any.. ie - if at full line with new pads - when you have worn pads it will still be above the MIN line. >The only thing I am wondering about is why the pedal was so mushy >directly after bleeding and for the consequent test drive and after it >has been sitting for 2 days, the pedal is somewhat back to normal. Someone once said on bleeding real (2-wheeled) BMW brakes: "gravity sucks" fluid is heavier than air, and your master cylinder is the highest point in the system. The same hole in the MC that relieves residual brake pressure when the pedal is full up will also allow air that works it's way up to the cylinder out. There are one or two BMW motorcycles that are famously hard to bleed, and about have to be left overnight to get a firm feel. >What are your opinions? Should I go ahead and replace the master >cylinder anyway? Should I stop being paranoid about my car and not >jump to the worst possible conclusion? Stop being paranoid. I would take a look-see at the piston area of the cylinder - which is located inside the car up under the dash, where the rod from the brake pedal goes into it. Look for leaking in that area. If you see none - you're likely correct. Overfilled and barfed out fluid from pushing the caliper pistons back. >All help/criticism is appreciated! :) > >Drive Safely, >Raza Best, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Kill switch location - from Scott M
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Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 23:30:02 -0800 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kill switch location On the C4 race car I am building we ended up putting the kill switch on the center tunnel about even with the dash. I like this location because the main power feed is kept well inside the cage structure so less likely to be cut and grounded during an accident, and you can still very easily reach in from either the pass or drivers side window to turn it off, plus I can reach from the drivers seat easily even when buckled in. http://para.noid.org/~c4racer/C4RACER/wiring/pages/image005.html Scott on 1/31/05 11:36 AM, Vern Anderson at vernon_anderson@yahoo.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 11:32:52 -0800 (PST) > From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > Subject: Kill switch location > > Sorry for all of the Club Racing questions, I'm also > posting these to the BMWCCA CR forums, just not sure > how active that forum is. Second CR question - anyone > care to share any good advice on how/where to mount a > kill switch in an 98 E36 M3/2? Car will remain street > legal (just not very streetable) and SCCA Solo SM > legal for a another year or so. Complete front > interior still intact (minus airbags :), race seats, > TCKline cage. Haven't mounted the window net yet. > Installing fire system, so I'll need to make sure that > stays powered even when the kill switch is activated. > Would like the kill switch to be accessable to me when > belted in if possible. Switch needs to be mounted or > able to be moved to the inside of the car so the > windows can be rolled up and the car locked. Should > be able to figure out something, just don't want to > re-invent the wheel if someone out there has already > done it. Thanks! > > Vern Anderson > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. Instability under heavy braking - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 09:24:26 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Instability under heavy braking In preparation for the upcoming track season I want to cure a problem that started to appear toward the last track days of last year. The problem is that under heavy braking, the front end of the car seems to "wander" from side to side like something isn't attached tightly. Under gently braking, these symptoms are not evident. Also I noticed that the front brake pads were worn very unevenly, into sort of a wedge shape. I have recently started hearing a sort of rattle sound that seems to be more noticable when turning to the right, it's pretty mild and I don't hear it all of the time. My track car is a 95 M3 (100K miles) with mostly upgraded suspension. It has TC Kline trackline suspension (S/A Konis), Contol Tech RTABs, Front CABs, RSMs, TMS Swaybars with urethane bushings, new front control arms and new swaybar endlinks at ~80K miles. What hasn't been replaced and what I think might be the culprit (in no particular order) is: Subframe bushings F&R Wheel bearings?? The rest of the suspension bushings F&R Diff Bushings I am really just grasping at straws here, although I am thinking that all of the above components probably need replacing on a 100K mile car that sees ~6 track events per year. Any pointers, tips or suggestions would be very welcome. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#7. Fwd: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 08:30:58 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II Jeremy's messages seemed to have been bouncing lately, so he wanted me to forward this to the list. Thanks for your help Jeremy! Drive Safely, Raza ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Jeremy Conners <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 08:44:14 -0500 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II To: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com>, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> 1] You state in your original post that you were flushing the brake system with Motul RBF600. My original thoughts were that this was a DOT 5 fluid (Silicone based) but I was mistaken. Everyone should know that Glycol and Silicone fluids are incompatible. Systems designed for one or the other should not be switched due to seal compatibilities. 2] The master cylinder for the E36 M3 has a metal central valve (typical valves are rubber). It is possible that a small piece of debris (dislodged during the flush) could have been deposited on the central valve and caused it to leak fluid. This can lead to the spongy pedal or even the pedal going to the floor as you cannot build pressure to the wheel cylinders when this bypass valve is open. This is also a reason for the higher cost. 3] The spongy pedal may have been caused by air in the system. Possibly the Hydraulic Electronic Control Unit (aka ABS/ASC+T) unit as it is very common to trap air in these during manual bleed procedures. If the ABS or ASC+T system was activated, it is possible that any air in the system was cycled back to the reservoir. The TEVES MkIV system operates with an open-loop hydraulic circuit. Brake fluid is pumped directly back to the master cylinder reservoir by means of hoses. Newer systems are closed-loop and have low pressure accumulators to hold fluid until it is pumped back through the HECU to the master cylinder. One advantage of our system is that the wheel cylinder pressure can be dropped to near atmospheric (benefits on low-mu). Accumulator setups typically have a spring with piston and can only drop wheel cylinder pressure to 2 to 5 times atmospheric (2-5 bar), spring and seal dependent. The disadvantage of our system is the complexity of connections and of course it's a few years old now. These systems are much smaller and lighter now. 4] The extra fluid was probably overflow and may have been caused by the sticking central valve causing fluid to overflow the reservoir. Best regards, Jeremy // -----Original Message----- // From: Raza Uddin [mailto:raza.uddin@gmail.com] // Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 7:26 PM // To: E36M3 // Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II // // Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:24:41 -0800 // From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> // Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II // // I'm now very confused. // ....
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#8. Money Shift. Now what? - from Daniel Lowe
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Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 12:10:14 -0500 From: Daniel Lowe <blackjackbimmer@gmail.com> Subject: Money Shift. Now what? Last week I did a very stupid money shift from 3rd to 2nd at about 85mph in my '95 M3. All 24 valves are bent to some extent. Lifters are probably not within OEM specs anymore either. 3 of the pistons are scored fairly heavily, one right out to the edge. I also bent 2 of the spark plugs. So, what to do now and try to not spend insane money doing it? The engine has 107k miles on it. I won't be doing the work myself. I could just do the lifters, valves and sand down the pistons and put it all back together for around $3k. I'd rather get the upgraded valve spring kit. (add another $1k) I also don't feel comfortable just sanding down the rough edges on the pistons since the one scored to the edge may pinch the ring once it's fired up. So, the engine needs to come out and new pistons installed (if I can find a set). (add another $2k) I had been intending to upgrade to the Shrick cams and 24# injectors to go along with the Euro HFM. (add another $1.5k) My mechanic has recommended doing the following due to the mileage and since the engines out and opened up: oil pump, main bearings, and rod bearings. (add another $600) All in all, it's going to be north of $8k and if I put a set of shorty headers on it's up to $9k. Horsepower should be above 300 at the crank with all this and the engine should be good to go for a long time. The other option is to go Euro, if I can find one. This starts around $6.5k plus shipping, installation and any other parts that may need to be replaced. That puts this option also up into the $8k to $9k range. I could then sell the S50 motor but I still have to spend close to $3k to make it saleable. Horsepower should be 286 per the literature but there is the unknown history of the engine and the Euro engine parts make the US ones look cheap. If you've been kind enough or foolish enough to read this far, any recommendations, suggestions, upgrades, cheap parts places? Regards, Dan
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#9. RE: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 09:17:13 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Brake Master Cylinder Problems Pt. II Raza - I too had a similar occurrence. I drove to Portland last fall from Seattle for a DE event. Due to the time of year - the weather - and the distance I chose to change pads and rotors at the track. Now I'm not known for being an early riser and arrived at the track just before the drivers meeting. However this morning this SOP left me with precious little time to get done what I needed to due prior running in group two. The morning swap went just like clock work and I remembered to pump the B-pedal between wheel exchanges of the pads/rotors. The afternoon change out however went a bit different, and it didn't help that it was now raining cats-n-dogs. My street pads were a bit thinner than my track pads and I failed to remember to 'set' the pads on one wheel before moving to the next. I finished up, packed the tools and track tires, changed my cloths and washed up. I went to check the level of fluid in the reservoir only to notice fluid all over the place (first clue) from fully retracting the pucks and not 'setting' them before moving to the next wheel exchange. Still raining buckets, I checked the reservoir - full (second clue) - closed the hood and jumped in and fired it up. Set first gear, release the E-brake, and away we go for the three hour drive home. The first stop sign leaving the track made my heart stop. First pedal application of the brakes did nothing and it felt as though the car was now accelerating. My mind was racing - this is going to be a long expensive three hour ride home on a flat bed! Second pump nothing, third pump nothing, with the forth stroke came a little resistance and by the fifth stroke (heart really racing now) of the pedal the ABS kicked in and I ground to a stop with a nice hard pedal. Raza Uddin wrote: <snip> "Just possibly the problem might be that I am just a dope. The pads the I replaced were near or below minimum thickness and I think the fluid leak might have been caused when I pushed back the pistons to accept the new, fresh pads. All help/criticism is appreciated! :)"
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Money Shift. Now what? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 11:33:43 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Money Shift. Now what? Another option is to look for another used US M3 (prefferably 3.2L) engine for less money than the euro, that'll get you back on the road. All of the upgrades you are talking about aren't really necessary to get you driving again, they are nice, yes, but the bottom line is that you need to decide what it is you are trying to accomplish and then budget for that. I would probably go with a 3.2L US engine and swap the 3.0L intake parts onto it, then upgrade from there as my budget allowed. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL