-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Shield plates under front bumper... - from Som Naderi
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 15:01:09 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Shield plates under front bumper... Group, Can someone confirm these part numbers for me? I just purchased new wheel well plastic pieces and the plastic little "triangles" they attach to in the front (mine were falling apart and rubbing the wheels). Apparently, though, there's a one more piece I'm missing. It's a plastic (or rubber?) shield piece that attaches below the aforementioned "triangles" -- right below the front bumpers in front of the front tires. The "triangle" pieces I'm referring to are: Support Left - 51711977117 Support Right - 51711977118 On realoem.com, the part that I'm looking for *appears* to be: Spacer Left - 51712250641 Spacer Right - 51712250642 Can someone verify this for me? If this is it, does anyone know somewhere online I can get these? The dealer I went to here in San Diego charged me full price for the other parts I bought and I'd prefer not to deal with them again. I thought realoem sold them, but I guess not. All help is greatly appreciated. Thank you! - Som '98 Coupe
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: Money Shift. Now what? - from Vern Anderson
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 15:30:36 -0800 (PST) From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Money Shift. Now what? Dan, I did the same thing last April at Sebring. Had been chasing a 911 down all morning, finally got a great run on him coming out onto the back straight and was so happy with myself and my incredible driving talent that I promptly shifted into 2nd instead of 4th. Talk about going from euphoria to depression as I watched every warning light on my dash light up and the engine (now sans compression) freewheel me over to the side of the track. Boy, I felt good :/ Luckily, my internals ended up being fine (the engine's that is; MY internal parts were not in good shape at all. In fact, I felt downright sick). So I replaced the valves and associated stuff and threw in the Shrick cams and put everything back together. I'm finally adding the remainder of the kit (OBD-I intake, injectors, etc) this month. Definitely a dilema if your engine needs pistons and bottom end work though. If you need to manage cash flow however, don't be afraid to put the cams in now and get the engine back together without any other upgrades - I ran the Shrick cams without the bigger intake, MFP, injectors or software for several thousand miles and 10-12 track days with absolutely no problems. Now that I have the cash, I'm going to complete the upgrade, but it is definitely possible to do it piecemeal if needed. Vern -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 12:10:14 -0500 From: Daniel Lowe <blackjackbimmer@gmail.com> Subject: Money Shift. Now what? Last week I did a very stupid money shift from 3rd to 2nd at about 85mph in my '95 M3. All 24 valves are bent to some extent. Lifters are probably not within OEM specs anymore either. 3 of the pistons are scored fairly heavily, one right out to the edge. I also bent 2 of the spark plugs. So, what to do now and try to not spend insane money doing it? The engine has 107k miles on it. I won't be doing the work myself. I could just do the lifters, valves and sand down the pistons and put it all back together for around $3k. I'd rather get the upgraded valve spring kit. (add another $1k) I also don't feel comfortable just sanding down the rough edges on the pistons since the one scored to the edge may pinch the ring once it's fired up. So, the engine needs to come out and new pistons installed (if I can find a set). (add another $2k) I had been intending to upgrade to the Shrick cams and 24# injectors to go along with the Euro HFM. (add another $1.5k) My mechanic has recommended doing the following due to the mileage and since the engines out and opened up: oil pump, main bearings, and rod bearings. (add another $600) All in all, it's going to be north of $8k and if I put a set of shorty headers on it's up to $9k. Horsepower should be above 300 at the crank with all this and the engine should be good to go for a long time. The other option is to go Euro, if I can find one. This starts around $6.5k plus shipping, installation and any other parts that may need to be replaced. That puts this option also up into the $8k to $9k range. I could then sell the S50 motor but I still have to spend close to $3k to make it saleable. Horsepower should be 286 per the literature but there is the unknown history of the engine and the Euro engine parts make the US ones look cheap. If you've been kind enough or foolish enough to read this far, any recommendations, suggestions, upgrades, cheap parts places? Regards, Dan
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. M50 manifold conversion - from K.C. Boyce
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 20:31:03 -0500 From: "K.C. Boyce" <k_boyce@e30eta.com> Subject: M50 manifold conversion So the thread about upgrading an S52US with an M50 manifold has been kicking around for a while now. I'm curious: does anyone have a parts list and BTDT story? I've seen the conversion kit on Eurosport's website, but it looks like they fabricated parts to make it all work. Can it be done with parts bought at the BMW parts counter (or junk yard, etc.)? I'd also be interested in hearing both subjective (seat of the pants) and objective (dyno graph, anyone?) feedback. Is modified software important in making this work properly? I'm sharking in a few months, so I'd be interested in this aspect as well. TIA! KC Boyce '97 M3/4 (stock, for now!)
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Fault Code 65 - from David M. Sanchez
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 18:53:35 -0800 From: "David M. Sanchez" <sanchez918@cox.net> Subject: Fault Code 65 ------=_NextPart_001_0006_01C5088F.557650D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Clear DayMy Check Engine light went on several days ago and I took my = M-3 into the local shop (Las Vegas, European Motor Cars) to have it = tested. After much trouble finding a fault code the technician found a = Fault Code 65 which he was not familiar with. The fuses are alright. = But, he was unable to delete the code. I am planning on going back this = Friday to check some other things. Incidentally, almost simultaneously = my AC control panel went out. None of the buttons are working. I don't = know if the two things are connected. Is anyone familiar with Fault Code = 65? Help! David M. Sanchez Sin City Chapter 1995 M-3 Daytona Violet "Sharked" ------=_NextPart_001_0006_01C5088F.557650D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD><TITLE id=3DridTitle>Clear Day</TITLE> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; = charset=3Dwindows-1252"><BASE=20 href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft = Shared\Stationery\"> <STYLE>BODY { MARGIN-TOP: 25px; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px; COLOR: #0033cc; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica } </STYLE> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=3DridBody bgColor=3D#ffffff=20 background=3Dcid:000401c508d2$63937650$8c6a6c44@8tjgb01> <DIV>My Check Engine light went on several days ago and I took my M-3 = into the=20 local shop (Las Vegas, European Motor Cars) to have it tested. After = much=20 trouble finding a fault code the technician found a Fault Code 65 which = he was=20 not familiar with. The fuses are alright. But, he was unable = to delete=20 the code. I am planning on going back this Friday to check some other = things.=20 Incidentally, almost simultaneously my AC control panel went out. None = of the=20 buttons are working. I don't know if the two things are connected. Is = anyone=20 familiar with Fault Code 65?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Help!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>David M. Sanchez</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Sin City Chapter</DIV> <DIV>1995 M-3 Daytona Violet "Sharked"<BR></DIV> <P> </P></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_001_0006_01C5088F.557650D0--
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's - from Robert Brooks
Top
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2005 19:56:25 -0700 From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's I thought I'd close on this for the benefit of the curious and future archive searchers... I decided to abandon torque readings, apply red Loctite, and back off the nut to the point that the top threads on the shock were just covered. This left the rubber just slightly squeezed. Road test was good; no noises or other oddities. A call to Rogue on Monday (talked to Mark) got tentative approval of this approach: "just keep an eye on it." Here is an idea from Matt Malfa which would make the mount work the same way for the 12mm shocks as it does for the 10mm ones: >based on what you are describing, I would probably check the ID of >the mount itself (not the bushings). Assuming is greater than 15-16mm, I >would buy a foot of 12mm ID steel tubing McMaster-Carr, cut off the >appropriate length, and drill out the bushings to the OD of the tubing. It >will not have the hardness of a machined part, but it should get the job >done since it will only be subject to static compressive loading and light >bending. > > Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:24:06 -0700 > From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> > Subject: Rogue RSM's with 12mm Koni's > > I am in the process of installing externally adjustable rear Koni SA's > with Rogue RSM's. The RSM's are advertised to accommodate the larger > 12mm shaft via removing the little metal spacer cylinder from the RSM's. > > I am putting the RSM onto the shock outside of the car. Problem is, > without that spacer in there to resist compression, only the rubber > bushings provide the resistance, and they are getting the bejeezus > squeezed out of 'em at well under the 37 ft-lbs of torque spec'ed by > Koni. > > Think I should be concerned about that? It seems like this is way > more static compression than the rubber would ordinarily be under. > >
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. A few issues from the new guy - from Christopher Bauer
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 21:06:11 -0600 From: "Christopher Bauer" <c.bauer10@verizon.net> Subject: A few issues from the new guy Gruppe, After two months of ownership, I have a few questions: 97 M3/2 non-lux, stick 1. What is the material around the door handle, between the upper and lower obviously vinyl pieces? If its leatherette or something, they did a much better job on it, than in the e30. 2. My stereo (stock) has issues. I've tried to get it counseling, but it just wont go. Sometimes, when I turn the car on, the FM radio fires right up. Sometimes I turn it on, but no music comes out. In this case, if you turn the volume up you can hear static coming from the speakers, but its faint. Typically, within 2-10 minutes, it will come on and act normally. AM, CD changer, and weather band, work fine all the time. I recently took the stereo out, to get the code for the 'code wait' issue. Did I accidentally knock the antenna out? or is this an amp issue? I don't really feel the need to get a new head unit, unless I have to. I enjoy not needing to drag a face plate with me wherever I go. 3. My clutch pedal, seems to slip off the bump stop. I don't know if this is indicative of the bendy clutch pedal I have read about in the archives, if something is loose, or if I need a big-boy bump stop ;). But it feels like the clutch pedal moves to the left, when it squeaks off. I don't know if this is bending (I doubt?) or if its just my foot hitting it at an angle? Just wondering if this is a 'they all do that' issue or if I need to investigate much more closely. (its friggin cold outside, I don't want to spend any more time out there than necessary) This issue is not something that happens all the time. I haven't narrowed down, when it does happen, but it seems to happen in the rain more often. 4. Is there anything I should know, beforehand, before I take this thing in to get tinted? Llumar ( http://www.llumar.com/na-eng/llumar.html ) and FormulaOne ( http://www.formulaone.com/ ) seem to be the two popular choices with installers here. The Llumar is 160 for the best film. FormulaOne is 300 something. 5. Are the Crossdrilled rotors factory on the rear? (the PO was a moron, I don't believe anything he said or did to this car) 6. Is there any way to tell if my car has had its fuel maps changed? (see above about PO) my mechanic said it 'felt like it had aftermarket fuel maps' (besides bumping the rev limiter or the speed governor) 7. Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with the koni coil over setup? (I've been following the recent koni discussion.. maybe Chester will educate me on the finer points of the proper adjustability settings.. ;) I'd probably be a moron at the track, and jack up the rebound and expect magic ) 8. The pump that sometimes comes on (located near the dash, on the passenger side, in the engine compartment), when you start the car... It makes a lot more noise than I thought it would. Its a whine, but doesn't sound like bearing whine or anything. Is this normal, or does this indicate that its crying? 9. Is there any increase in performance, speed/hp wise, when turning the ASC+T off? Butt dyno says there is, but logic tells me there might not be. Thanks in advance for any and all answers. I try to scan the archives for most of my questions. Chris 97m3
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] A few issues from the new guy - from Chris Teague
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 19:32:20 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A few issues from the new guy Chris, Welcome. See my answer to some of your questions below. > 3. My clutch pedal, seems to slip off the bump stop. I don't know if this > is > indicative of the bendy clutch pedal I have read about in the archives, if > something is loose, or if I need a big-boy bump stop ;). But it feels like > the clutch pedal moves to the left, when it squeaks off. I don't know if > this is bending (I doubt?) or if its just my foot hitting it at an angle? > Just wondering if this is a 'they all do that' issue or if I need to > investigate much more closely. (its friggin cold outside, I don't want to > spend any more time out there than necessary) This issue is not something > that happens all the time. I haven't narrowed down, when it does happen, > but > it seems to happen in the rain more often. I think they all do this. Get a big boy clutch stop, and the UUC clutch pedal bushings. > > 5. Are the Crossdrilled rotors factory on the rear? (the PO was a moron, I > don't believe anything he said or did to this car) No. > 7. Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with the koni coil over > setup? (I've been following the recent koni discussion.. maybe Chester > will > educate me on the finer points of the proper adjustability settings.. ;) > I'd > probably be a moron at the track, and jack up the rebound and expect > magic ) Koni makes some nice stuff. I run the TCKline/Bimmerhaus Koni coil over setup, which has double adjustable shocks. > 9. Is there any increase in performance, speed/hp wise, when turning the > ASC+T off? Butt dyno says there is, but logic tells me there might not be. > Yes when it operates, no when it doesn't. So on a Dyno, on/off shouldn't make any HP difference. On the autox course, turning ASC off is worth about 2 seconds on the courses I have tested. It really gets in the way, and shuts off power when you try to reach the cornering limit. It's a good safety net for the street. Chris 97 M3/4
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] A few issues from the new guy - from Walter J
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 23:16:01 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A few issues from the new guy > 4. Is there anything I should know, beforehand, before I take this thing in > to get tinted? Llumar ( http://www.llumar.com/na-eng/llumar.html ) and > FormulaOne ( http://www.formulaone.com/ ) seem to be the two popular choices > with installers here. The Llumar is 160 for the best film. FormulaOne is 300 > something. If you plan to do driving schools, pass on the tint. They frown on it because it obsures the visibilty of cars behind you. (and sometimes "officials" like to trip on a wee bit of control granted them) > 5. Are the Crossdrilled rotors factory on the rear? (the PO was a moron, I > don't believe anything he said or did to this car) Nope > 7. Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with the koni coil over > setup? (I've been following the recent koni discussion.. maybe Chester will > educate me on the finer points of the proper adjustability settings.. ;) I'd > probably be a moron at the track, and jack up the rebound and expect magic ) If you don't know why you would need adjustable suspension then you don't need adjustable suspension. I realize that really makes me sound like a pompous ass but its true. Save the $ until you have a pretty good idea what you need and why based upon the way the car reacts to your input... a really good way to figure this all out is to immediately drop everything, run out, and track your car ;) If you just want it slammed there are cheaper ways to go. > 8. The pump that sometimes comes on (located near the dash, on the passenger > side, in the engine compartment), when you start the car... It makes a lot > more noise than I thought it would. Its a whine, but doesn't sound like > bearing whine or anything. Is this normal, or does this indicate that its > crying? Mine cries for about 90 sec then shuts up. Has always done it. > 9. Is there any increase in performance, speed/hp wise, when turning the > ASC+T off? Butt dyno says there is, but logic tells me there might not be. Performance, no... Its a completely reactive system. Potential giggles, yes... it only butts in where the fun starts.
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2005 20:38:54 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights At 10:35 AM 2/1/05, Jim Bassett wrote: >For parking lights? I used one of the wires from the turn signal. Of >course, that part of my web page hasn't been put back up at the new host >yet. I can do so this evening. There should be some info up at: http://www.jimbassett.com/bmw.htm Click on "European Ellipsoid Headlights" on the left menu. Jim Bassett
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. RE: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights - from Ty Vilhauer
Top
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 22:19:09 -0700 From: "Ty Vilhauer" <Quest@pacifier.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights Jim, If you don't have DDE's you connect your city lights to the "hot wire" on your parking lights. I'm sorry I can't remember for the life of me what it is. Ty -----Original Message----- From: Kent L. Shephard [mailto:kents@kls-consulting.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 12:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2005 11:07:01 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights Hi, I connected the "city light" on my ellipsoids to the turn signal lights and put in amber bulbs. So when my turn signals are on the city light flashes also. I did this because it looks a little stupid always on with the angel eyes. Kent Jim Bassett wrote: >Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 10:28:54 -0800 (PST) >From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Driving Lights > >On Tue, February 1, 2005 9:56 am, Jonathan Evans said: > > >>Oops. Just noticed that I never connected the 'driving light' wire of my >>European ellipsoid headlights to the parking lights. I assume that some >>illumination should appear from the ellipsoids when just the parking >>lights are on, but not the headlights. Anyone know what color wire to >>attach it to on a '95? >> >> > >For parking lights? I used one of the wires from the turn signal. Of >course, that part of my web page hasn't been put back up at the new host >yet. I can do so this evening. > >Jim Bassett > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************