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#1. Re: Radiator Replacement - from KResener@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 21:48:42 EST From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Re: Radiator Replacement Thanks to all who've responded, both privately and through the digest to my question on the procedure for the radiator replacement. I'm floored by the number of responses, that's what makes this such a great list! I even had two local list members offer to loan me the proper wrench for the fan, and offer to "supervise" my work! I'll be placing a call to James at Bimmerworld to order the radiator and fan delete kit tomorrow. Kurt Resener Louisville, KY '95 ///M3 '97 528i '97 Audi A6 Quattro Avant '75 Mercedes 280c
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#2. Effective spring rate (rear) - from Fernando Mujica
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Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 21:43:14 -0600 From: Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> Subject: Effective spring rate (rear) Does anybody knows what's the "effective" spring rate for our cars? I mean, for a spring rate of K lb/in the effective spring rate should be approximately S x K, with S a constant depending on suspension geometry. Alternatively, you can help me with the following... I'm trying to figure out if I have enough adjusting range in my rear GC spring perches to preserve my current ride height as I go from 500 to 550 lb/in springs. I want to avoid getting shorter springs as I like the almost full suspension travel I get with the 7" springs. So the question is how much will my ride height change between 500 and 550 springs? Thanks, Fernando '97 M3/4
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#3. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 Euro Exhaust Questions and Help - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:24:12 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 Euro Exhaust Questions and Help I have the euro header on my car and I made a connector pipe to the rest of the system. Since you have the euro cat I would try it first. Or if you don't want any cats take the euro cats and cut the cats off and have two resonators welded in it makes the car much quiter. You can buy stainless resonators from Magnaflow or steel ones from Summit racing. I have the steel ones on my car. Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#4. Shirts - from John Hoffner
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Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 08:19:45 -0800 From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> Subject: Shirts I have been absent from this mailing for some time and missed the information about the shirts. Please email the information to me. Thanks, John Hoffner >-------------------- 3 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 10:19:46 EST >From: GGray657@aol.com >Subject: Shirt count 02/08/ > >Shirt count looks good! Should have a time frame on when they can be >made/shipped today. > >Count as 02/08 >T shirts 28 >Knit 20 (five short) > >I may just go ahead and get the knit shirts done if I do not have enough >order's. I really want a few knit shirts they look nice! > >LAST DAY TO RESERVE SHIRTS will be 02/09 > >After tomorrow I am not going to be able to add any more shirts. > >Thanks! >Gary >Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team > > > > > > >
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#5. Shirt cutoff 12pm today(IMPORTANT READ!) - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:44:30 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Shirt cutoff 12pm today(IMPORTANT READ!) I am cutting off orders for the shirts at 12pm TODAY... So here is what I am doing for payment. 1. Check or USPS money order ONLY! 2. MAIL ME THE FOLLOWING: Send a check or Postal Money order only. Include on piece of paper your address, and the size you want. Make it out to Pro Bike Cycling Team 3. Add $3.50 for USPS shipping first class. I have to pay for the packaging. 4. T-shirt cost $15.00 each, Knit cost $25.00 each 5. Add your shirts up and add the shipping: one of each plus shipping $43.50 And here is how it works. I will get your payment and cross check it with all the email orders I have, if I cannot find a match I am going to email the ones that have not sent in a payment. If I have the correct amount I will cash the checks and put the money in my Bicycle Race team account and run the order through it. I will not make the order until I have ALL the money so do not wait a week to send a check. As soon as I have the shirts from the maker i will send them out ASAP. MAIL PAYMENT HERE: Pro Bike Attn.: Gary 1901 Gray Lane Pearl MS 39208 Thanks, Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#6. RE: E36 M3 Euro Exhaust Questions and Help - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 09:21:23 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: E36 M3 Euro Exhaust Questions and Help Bill - I'm going to assume you have a '95 E36M3 and address your issue as though you do. The 95 shares the same cast exhaust manifold as the 2.5L 325. And yes there is in fact a pre-cat merge/neck down in the tubes just up stream of the cats. The 96 cats do not have the pre-cat merge and are of slightly larger tube diameter (I believe this to be true). The 96+ also employs a welded tube head pipe that flows a little better than the 95 2.5L/3.0L cast header. The cat back exhaust is also less restrictive (larger tube diameter?) than the 95s and the 96 cat-back was a common 'upgrade' for the 95. So one might consider a 96 US system from the head back, though the post cat O2 sensors are not required for the 95 they could simply be plugged. KLB Ref research tool: www.realoem.com -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 19:21:47 -0500 From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> Subject: E36 M3 Euro Exhaust Questions and Help I am going to install a set of Euro E36 M3 headers and a Euro M3 cat section this weekend on my US E36 M3. I have a few questions. The Euro cat section is definitely heavier by at least 15 pounds, is this because the Euro cat section uses the better flowing metal substrate catalysts? From what I have been told, the metal substrate catalysts flow better then stock US honeycomb catalysts, is this true? If so how much better? The reason I am asking is because it will be just as easy (and much cheaper in the long run) for me to tie into my stock "gutted" cat section. However I am worried that this will choke the headers as the stock cat section (although gutted) is much smaller diameter (~49 mm) then the Euro pipes (~60 mm). Also if anyone has seen the stock US section it gets pretty small where in merges into one pipe before the cats. I figure it would be cool if the Euro cat section flows better and I am legal to boot. Bill P PS Supersprint actually makes a "metal kat" for the Euro E36 M3. The stock Euro Cats are stamped BMW but another name is stamped on them that starts with a "B" something ??? . I forget the whole name.
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#7. 98 m3/4 for sale - from Petro, John D (Corporate)
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 15:49:51 -0500 From: "Petro, John D (Corporate)" <John.Petro@Corporate.GE.com> Subject: 98 m3/4 for sale Listing friends: The dark day has come-- i'm putting my m3/4 on the blocks. time to move on, and let her see a second life, maybe even the track, where she belongs. here's the bullet: m3/4, 5 speed, technoviolet over modena natur, factory rear wing + 3rd brakelight, heated seats, cruise, sunroof, mint M polished forged wheelset (factory staggered+ spare). non folding reat seat (more chassis rigidity), manual m-sport seats. mods are few: conforti code + intake, x-brace, original uuc short shifter. 90,000 miles, virtually all highway cruising (50 mile/day roundtrip commute, plus 2-8 hour highway trips along east coast) build date 9/97, in service date 3/17/98. vin:WBSCD9322WEE07313. Always garaged, no track time, no accidents. original paint is as good as can be expected of cared-for daily driver (zaino 3x/yr certainly helps). Interior is impeccable, save a few cracks on drivers seat bolster. All service records available: oil good to 92k, inspections all set till 102-106K. new rear brakes at 76K, new rear bridgestones <1000 miles ago. Will need new front pads/rotors and tires soon. depending on whether my snow wheels/tires fit the new car ('05 330i sedan, ZHP), they might be available as well. I've listed at autotrader for $15,500, but i'll entertain sensible offers. PM me at john.petro@corproate.ge.com. -- i hope someone here is interested.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Shirt cutoff 12pm today(IMPORTANT READ!) - from Todd C. Merrill
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:10:00 -0500 (EST) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shirt cutoff 12pm today(IMPORTANT READ!) On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 GGray657@aol.com wrote: > 3. Add $3.50 for USPS shipping first class. I have to pay for the packaging. ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ > > 4. T-shirt cost $15.00 each, Knit cost $25.00 each Previously, you wrote: > White 100% cotton T-shirt with logo on the chest and back $15.00 > > Black Knit shirt logo on front $25.00 > > Price includes shipping, any profit I will donate to Suzy for all her work. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ So, there is now this extra $3.50 PER ORDER fee (for packaging)? Just double-checking... Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
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#9. KOSEI K1S - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 14:50:54 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: KOSEI K1S Kosei K1 wheels in 17x8.5 et40 with a 5-120 bolt pattern. $170 per wheel. TireRack currently lists @ $199. The noise to signal ratio is high over there but this is a good deal! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313657 No affiliation or interest Kim L Burgess
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#10. Steering Rack and Tie Rod Nut - from Som Naderi
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Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 23:39:18 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Steering Rack and Tie Rod Nut Group, Couple questions regarding swapping my tie rods out. 1) Upon removing the boot around the left tie rod, there was a vast amount of grease on the steering rack. Under the right side was perfectly clean. Checking the archives there was a thread about the rack seals going bad and replacing the rack and/or seal. Is this what I need to do? Is replacing only the seals a difficult task or should I just replace the whole rack? I checked bimmerparts.com and there are two steering racks available -- one from "Maval" and another from "ZF". Both retail at $605 (or is that the OEM retail?) but the Maval is $285 and the ZF is $480. Any reason I shouldn't go for the Maval rack? 2) How do you get the outer nut on the tie rod on? As soon as the nut gets on the bolt the whole shaft starts spinning. No hex bolt inside to keep it in place like the strut shaft. No flat spots on the backside to keep it in place like on the sway bar endlinks. Nothing. Is there a special technique to getting this nut on? I don't have access to an impact wrench, unfortunately. Is there any other way? Thanks for any help... - Som '98 Coupe