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#1. Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 19:28:20 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? I use a craftsman ratcheting wrench, although I have done it with a non-ratcheting variety too. There isn't much room to work between the coils of the spring and it takes a long time but it is possible. Try one wrench toward you and the other facing toward the control arm. You can also unbolt the console that the endlink attaches to but I don't think that will help you with the stock endlink. Perseverence and patience will help, don't give up. It may take a long time and require many very small turns of the wrench, this is where the ratcheing wrench helps because you don't have to take it off the nut after you've turned it 1/16th of a turn. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#2. RE: [E36M3] HIR Bulbs - from Ty Vilhauer
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Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 19:18:37 -0700 From: "Ty Vilhauer" <quest@pacifier.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] HIR Bulbs Lew, I've seen multiple Dinan supercharged cars with euro projectors. I strongly encourage you to go that direction. Ty -----Original Message----- From: Lew Becker [mailto:lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 5:27 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] HIR Bulbs Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:21:56 -0800 From: Lew Becker <lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net> Subject: HIR Bulbs Anyone have any experience (good or bad) with HIR (halogen infrared) bulbs? See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/ Euro lights are not in my future (because my Dinan supercharger occupies too much underhood real estate); and I'm not interested in HIDs without the Euro lights' cut-off. Silverstars made for a noticeable improvement, without any issues with oncoming cars (flashing high beams, etc.); but I'm wondering whether the HIRs may be the way to go. Lew Becker ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles - from SCOTT DOTY
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Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:27:24 -0500 From: SCOTT DOTY <sdoty@optonline.net> Subject: TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles I posted on BF but so far no help, so maybe someone here can help. I have Recaro SPG's and Recaro mounts/sliders attached to TC Kline seat mounts. The TC Kline mounts have a tab for mounting the stock E36 seatbelt receptacles. I bought hardware to mount the receptacles, but the head of the bolt interferes with the inboard Recaro seat mount to the point of not being able to move the seat fore and aft. Anyone have any ideas or use a setup similar and had to overcome the same situation? The whole combination is really nice, I just have hit a snag and need any ideas. Thanks, Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 7:37 PM Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #4139 > ************************************************************** > E36M3 List - Forum for Discussion of E36M3 Series Automobiles > ************************************************************** > BMWMPower on the Web: http://www.bmw-m.net > ************************************************************** > > This digest contains the following messages: > > 1. RE: [E36M3] BMW Tech Help (S50 US) > by: Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> > 2. Suspension noise troubleshooting > by: Rick Cooke <rickcooke@rcn.com> > 3. Re: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > by: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > 4. Re: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > by: <cteague@cox.net> > 5. RE: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > by: Rick Cooke <rickcooke@rcn.com> > 6. RE: [E36M3] Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > by: Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> > 7. How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? > by: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> > 8. Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? > by: <cteague@cox.net> > 9. HIR Bulbs > by: Lew Becker <lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net> > 10. Subject: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > by: Grant Fairweather <grant_f1@comcast.net> > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 12:54:54 -0800 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] BMW Tech Help (S50 US) > > Maybe you could call a builder like Rebello or Sunbelt to see > if they have it. Don't know if they would be willing to part with the > info but it's worth a call. > > Dave > 98 M3/4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 12:17 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Tech Help (S50 US) > > > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 12:11:35 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Tech Help (S50 US) > > I wouldn't count on any dealership knowing any of this or having access to > it > since most techs are just mindless monkeys. BMW's philosophy is > definitely > one > of if it's broken, just swap it out. Hence, you can't buy ring and > pinions > for > a diff, you can't buy tools to repair a leaking steering rack, you can't > buy > tools to rebuild a diff. And now you're asking about precise numbers and > the > such? HA! These are guys who use impact airguns when bolting trannies > back > to > the engine... I forgot which series of books I bought for a friend, but > it > had > detailed info...not sure if it was as detailed as what you're requiring... > > Good luck, > Chester > > --- Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: >> None of them have important specs for engine builders, e.g. installed >> valve height, valve face angles, valve spring lengths and rates, etc. >> >> Where does BMW keep this information? > > > ===== > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:22:44 -0500 > From: "Rick Cooke" <rickcooke@rcn.com> > Subject: Suspension noise troubleshooting > > > I am looking for some assistance in locating a rear end noise which I > suspect is suspension related. The sound, kind of like cracking your > knuckles, occurs on acceleration - as when the rear suspension compresses. > I > hear it from both sides. It is not as noticeable on deceleration or > braking, > but happens every time I step on the accelerator. > > Over the summer, I rebuilt the brakes completely and installed new RTABs > (Urethane from Bav Auto). No noise until fairly recently. I suspected the > RTABS, so I dropped the training arms and inspected them - they look fine. > I > do not see any obvious wear or looseness in the other rear end bushings, > although there is certainly wear there. > > 95 M3 with 150K miles, Bilsteins at 100K, Upper shock mounts are the E46 > variety - replaced at 125K (and look fine). > > TIA > > Rick > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:29:51 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > > If you have urethane RTABs, would it be the type where a pin goes through > it? > If the lube got washed out, squeezed out or you plain didn't use enough, I > could imagine that there might be a certain about of stiction that you > overcome > and the noise you're hearing is the initial break to get the pin twisting > in > the urethane... > > Chester > > --- Rick Cooke <rickcooke@rcn.com> wrote: >> Over the summer, I rebuilt the brakes completely and installed new RTABs >> (Urethane from Bav Auto). No noise until fairly recently. I suspected the >> RTABS, so I dropped the training arms and inspected them - they look >> fine. I >> do not see any obvious wear or looseness in the other rear end bushings, >> although there is certainly wear there. > > > ===== > > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:43:34 -0500 > From: <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > > Rick, > > Since it seems to happen mostly on acceleration, check > your front diff bushing that is in the subframe. Mine > was cracked, and I replaced it. > > Also, you may want to check the upper control arm outer > bushing. It's really a ball joint, so it can wear out > and cause clunking. On the 96-99's, both the upper > and lower arm outer bushings are ball joints (same part #). > > Even a little wear on the ball joints can cause a > clunking sound. > > Good luck, > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > >> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:22:44 -0500 >> From: "Rick Cooke" <rickcooke@rcn.com> >> Subject: Suspension noise troubleshooting >> >> >> I am looking for some assistance in locating a rear end noise which I >> suspect is suspension related. The sound, kind of like cracking your >> knuckles, occurs on acceleration - as when the rear suspension >> compresses. I >> hear it from both sides. It is not as noticeable on deceleration or >> braking, >> but happens every time I step on the accelerator. >> >> Over the summer, I rebuilt the brakes completely and installed new RTABs >> (Urethane from Bav Auto). No noise until fairly recently. I suspected the >> RTABS, so I dropped the training arms and inspected them - they look >> fine. I >> do not see any obvious wear or looseness in the other rear end bushings, >> although there is certainly wear there. >> >> 95 M3 with 150K miles, Bilsteins at 100K, Upper shock mounts are the E46 >> variety - replaced at 125K (and look fine). >> > > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:51:37 -0500 > From: "Rick Cooke" <rickcooke@rcn.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suspension noise troubleshooting > > This bushing was in two halves, with a hollow steel tube down the middle > and > a bolt through to both sides of the mounting flange. > > Lube? What lube? ........ > > ========snip > If you have urethane RTABs, would it be the type where a pin goes through > it? > If the lube got washed out, squeezed out or you plain didn't use enough, I > could imagine that there might be a certain about of stiction that you > overcome and the noise you're hearing is the initial break to get the pin > twisting in the urethane... > > Chester > > --- Rick Cooke <rickcooke@rcn.com> wrote: >> Over the summer, I rebuilt the brakes completely and installed new >> RTABs (Urethane from Bav Auto). No noise until fairly recently. I >> suspected the RTABS, so I dropped the training arms and inspected them >> - they look fine. I do not see any obvious wear or looseness in the >> other rear end bushings, although there is certainly wear there. > > > ===== > > > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- >Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 14:00:18 -0800 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > > I went with GC COs. I got the race package with Koni SAs that > are shortened, 375lb 6" F and 450lb 7" R springs, hybrid camber > plates, RSMs, and RTABS. I also installed Eibach sways and an X-brace > all at the same time. These are the softest springs you can use for this > setup. > I, like you, wanted to upgrade the handling and feel of the car without > killing the street ride. Mission accomplished! > My wife didn't even notice. Since the original shocks were pretty well > blown out with 45k on them, the car was a bit bouncy. I would say > that the car actually rides better now under most conditions. > I have a 2000 corvette which is basically stock and the M3 rides > much better. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mo Karamat [mailto:karamatm@optonline.net] > Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:57 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > > > Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:57:03 -0500 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > > Dear All, > > Evening.. I am thinking about changing my suspension to one of the kits > that Ground controls offers.. > > 1. Complete c/o kit, E36 Street, (Uses Existing M3 Housings That Are On > Your Car) - $999 > > > 2. Complete Coil-over Kit, E36 Track / School, (Complete Front > Assemblies) - $1249 > > Any experiences, or thoughts about either of the kits would be > appreciated. > The car is used as a street car, and also my track car. So I am looking > for > something that will improve the handling without being punishing.. I > currently have the Eibach Pro kit & Koni Sa's. > > Thanks > Mo > 98 M3/4 > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 18:17:11 -0500 > From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> > Subject: How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? > > Greetings, > > I recently got new swaybars and am having difficulty removing the upper > portion of the rear stock links. > The link is attached inside a cavity and I can't get any room to move a > straight wrench once it's on the nut. It hits either the cavity edge > and/or lower control arm depending on orientation. > > What sort of wrench do I need to get that nut off and back on, or am I > just not seeing something obvious? > > Thanks in advance, > marty > '96 M3 - new front swaybar and original rear > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 18:35:16 -0500 > From: <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? > > Marty, > > Just take off the whole bracket. It's attached at the > top of the upper control arm with a single nut that comes > off with a 13mm wrench. It's right behind the spring. > Note the orientation of the little tab that sticks up > so you can put it back the same way it came off. > > It's easy if you do it that way. > > Chris > > >> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 18:17:11 -0500 >> From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> >> Subject: How to R&R rear swaybar bushings? >> >> Greetings, >> >> I recently got new swaybars and am having difficulty removing the upper >> portion of the rear stock links. >> The link is attached inside a cavity and I can't get any room to move a >> straight wrench once it's on the nut. It hits either the cavity edge >> and/or lower control arm depending on orientation. >> >> What sort of wrench do I need to get that nut off and back on, or am I >> just not seeing something obvious? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> marty >> '96 M3 - new front swaybar and original rear > > > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 16:21:56 -0800 > From: Lew Becker <lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net> > Subject: HIR Bulbs > > Anyone have any experience (good or bad) with HIR (halogen infrared) > bulbs? See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/ Euro lights > are not in my future (because my Dinan supercharger occupies too much > underhood real estate); and I'm not interested in HIDs without the Euro > lights' cut-off. Silverstars made for a noticeable improvement, without > any issues with oncoming cars (flashing high beams, etc.); but I'm > wondering whether the HIRs may be the way to go. > > Lew Becker > > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 18:24:06 -0600 > From: "Grant Fairweather" <grant_f1@comcast.net> > Subject: Subject: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? > > Mo writes: > >>Evening.. I am thinking about changing my suspension to one of the kits >>that Ground controls offers.. >>1. Complete c/o kit, E36 Street, (Uses Existing M3 Housings That Are On >>Your Car) - $999 >>2. Complete Coil-over Kit, E36 Track / School, (Complete Front >>Assemblies) - $1249 > >>Any experiences, or thoughts about either of the kits would be >>appreciated. >>The car is used as a street car, and also my track car. So I am looking >>for >>something that will improve the handling without being punishing.. I >>currently have the Eibach Pro kit & Koni Sa's. > > Hmmm...I'm looking to replace the stock shocks/struts/springs on my 98 > M3/4 and the Koni/Eibach (Pro kit) is at the top of my list. What are you > looking to gain with the ground control kit over your current set-up? If > you do go with a complete kit that includes new shock/struts/springs, let > me know if you want to part with your Konis and Eibachs. > > Grant Fairweather > 98 M3/4 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#4. RE: HIR Bulbs - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:29:16 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: HIR Bulbs Lew asked: >Anyone have any experience (good or bad) with HIR (halogen infrared) >bulbs? See http://bmwz.org/articles/lighting/0506trick/ Euro lights >are not in my future (because my Dinan supercharger occupies too much >underhood real estate); and I'm not interested in HIDs without the Euro >lights' cut-off. Silverstars made for a noticeable improvement, without >any issues with oncoming cars (flashing high beams, etc.); but I'm >wondering whether the HIRs may be the way to go. > >Lew Becker Actually.. I'm working on an article for Roundel on improving the E36 lighting (the '98 M3 is SO bad compared to other BMW's I've owned that it was almost not driveable at night..) And to answer your question - yes. Lots. Measurements, intensity patterns and use on the car. FAR superior to the Sylvania XtraVision bulbs, which are supposed to be brighter than the Silverstars. I'm currently using them on my M3 - been using a "Gonzo" option from the vendor - which is a 65W high-beam bulb modified to fit the low-beam socket. Beam pattern does NOT change - it just gets a bit more than 2x brighter. In running them I've been waiting for someone to flash me (happens often enough on my E39 with factory HID's) - and it hasn't happened. I even tried it in a senior village (where I always get flashed with the E39/HIDs) - nothing. Doesn't seem to bother them. Lots more to say about these and other lighting options (next will be euro's with HID's in them, the normal euro is NOT a bright light - although the pattern is very well defined.) Source of them: http://www.hirheadlights.com/ You can mention my name.. Measured difference: XtraVision, 20% brighter than stock. HIR/Gonzo option - 120% brighter than stock - and a decent pattern. The other thing you should do for sure - repolish the headlights. They ARE pitted and scratched unless you did this last week.. They seem to scratch very quickly. I'll also be writing the process up for Roundel also (not original - it's on a number of websites), basically: 1. Wet sand with 1,000 grit paper. Sand until most of the pits are gone, or at least reduced a lot. 2. Wet sand with 1,600 grit paper until the 1,000 scratches are gone. 3. Polish with the plastic polish of your choice (Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner on a soft flannel rag works well.) 4. Several coats of your favorite polymer finish (I use Rejex) help keep them clear. You can do this with the lights on the car - I'd suggest using painters blue-masking tape on the surrounding paintwork so if you slip nothing gets boogered up.. You can repeat 1-3 until you are satisfied... Took me about 45 minutes per headlight. I now give them a quick re-polish with the Meguiars when I'm waxing the car. Lots easier if you keep after them. HTH, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#5. Re: [E36M3] TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 08:29:59 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles >but the head of the bolt >interferes with the inboard Recaro seat mount to the point of not being able >to move the seat fore and aft. I'm using the TCK mounts and a Recaro SRD, I ended up using a set of E30 seat belt buckles that I had laying around. I believe they (tck) provide a short bolt for the seat belt buckle but I can't recall if I put the bolt head facing the tracks or facing the tranny tunnel. I know I bent the tab outwards for some reason (maybe the same reason you have) sorry this was a while ago for me. Carlos.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Subject: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 08:52:19 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Subject: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? >Hmmm...I'm looking to replace the stock shocks/struts/springs on my 98 M3/4 and the Koni/Eibach (Pro kit) is at the top >of my list. What are you looking to gain with the ground control kit over your current set-up? If you do go with a >complete kit that includes new shock/struts/springs, let me know if you want to part with your Konis and Eibachs. I was gonna say the Eibach/Koni combo seems to be pretty good especially if the car needs to be street driven a bunch. What I was going to suggest if you want increased performance is a set of camber plates. I have a set of those Motor Force ones which can be used on stockish (beehive) springs. I bet you can eliminate a bunch of understeer by cranking up the negative camber in the front. IMO the only reason to go GC coilovers is to compete with them (autox, club race, etc) or you need a really aggressive setup (instructor, a-student) but the car isn't daily driven. Carlos.
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#7. Head gasket replacement question.... - from Townsend, William
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 10:14:23 -0500 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Head gasket replacement question.... So I thought I heard that some of you have done the head gasket job without taking the manifolds off. Can some of you that have done it this way comment on how that went? I am soon to embark on this journey and would like to save myself some headaches. Also, were there list members that rented the tool set for this? (cam locks, tdc pin, sprocket wrench, tensioner and head bolt torx) Oh and how many of you encountered a spring plate on the intake cam shaft sprocket? I guess some cam with and some not.... No idea what I will find here. Was going to swap all the stop plates and the sprocket with the vanos unit. (got the can-o-marbles sounds at 80K miles) Thanks, --Bill 96 red M3 (S52 - 3.2)
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#8. Re: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 12:32:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? on 2/16/05 3:27 PM, Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> wrote: > Evening.. I am thinking about changing my suspension to one of the kits > that Ground controls offers.. > > 1. Complete c/o kit, E36 Street, (Uses Existing M3 Housings That Are On > Your Car) - $999 > > 2. Complete Coil-over Kit, E36 Track / School, (Complete Front > Assemblies) - $1249 Now that you can get complete Koni factory-built coilovers (e.g. From TC Kline at http://tcklineracing.com/suspension.htm#true) I'm not sure what the attraction of GC's "substantial assembly required" coilover approach is. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Head gasket replacement question.... - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 13:05:29 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head gasket replacement question.... Do not pull the head and all the manifolds together, it is a pita, and not worth it. 7 bolts to remove the intake manifold, 24 on the exhaust...No big deal. And it is MUCH easier to work with the head with them off, I would even go so far as to say pull the exhaust manifolds completely off the car so they are out of the way. I have had my head off three times last year. If you have the head off you need to go ahead and have new valve guide seals stuck on it since it's out already. The marbles in a can is pretty common especially at idle. You can buy the tools for under 150 bucks, or you can rent mine, all I have is the cam lock plate and TDC pin, the Torex can be bought at a parts store. I used the screwdriver and hammer method to move the cam around..redneck style! Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#10. RE: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? - from Steve Walsh
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 10:18:22 -0800 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Opinions of Ground Controls Coil over kits? I've been thru a number of 'stages' on my E36 325is. Stock, Bilstein Sport/Eibach Pro-Kit, Bilstein Sport/H&R Sport, and now GC Track/School 500# fr/600# rr. I found that the coilover 'issue' is often misunderstood. Coilovers *primarily* offer adjustability. What to slam it into the weeds?..coilovers. What to play World Challenge star on the weekends?...coilovers. What more roll stiffness, but not sure how much?...coilovers. Coilovers allow you to find the 'suspension' you want. The Eibach Pro-Kit/Sportline or H&R OEM Sport/Sport/Race springs have a spring rate, which while stiffer than stock, may not be what you want. They also seem to be inconsistent (H&R in particular) in the actual rate. My advice: think hard about what you want, what you don't want, ride in E36's that might have want you want, and decide *before* you buy.