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#1. Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar links (not bushings)? - from Marty
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:00:36 -0500 From: Marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to R&R rear swaybar links (not bushings)? Oops, my original subject was wrong. I was trying to remove the links, not bushings - at least the message text was clearer. Thanks Chris, and Jamie - that was much easier. I was definitely missing the obvious solution. marty cteague@cox.net wrote: > Marty, > > Just take off the whole bracket. It's attached at the > top of the upper control arm with a single nut that comes > off with a 13mm wrench. It's right behind the spring. > Note the orientation of the little tab that sticks up > so you can put it back the same way it came off. > > It's easy if you do it that way. > > Chris >
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#2. Re: Head gasket replacement question.... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:26:23 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Head gasket replacement question.... on 2/17/05 1:37 PM, "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> wrote: > So I thought I heard that some of you have done the head gasket job > without taking the manifolds off. Can some of you that have done it this > way comment on how that went? I am soon to embark on this journey and > would like to save myself some headaches. Also, were there list members > that rented the tool set for this? (cam locks, tdc pin, sprocket wrench, > tensioner and head bolt torx) > > Oh and how many of you encountered a spring plate on the intake cam > shaft sprocket? I guess some cam with and some not.... No idea what I > will find here. Was going to swap all the stop plates and the sprocket > with the vanos unit. (got the can-o-marbles sounds at 80K miles) You can rent the tools from Koalamotorsport.com, or buy them for a couple of hundred if you think you'll ever want to revisit this. Use the real tools. on 2/17/05 1:37 PM, GGray657@aol.com wrote: > Do not pull the head and all the manifolds together, it is a pita, and not > worth it. 7 bolts to remove the intake manifold, 24 on the exhaust...No big > deal. And it is MUCH easier to work with the head with them off, I would even > go so far as to say pull the exhaust manifolds completely off the car so they > are out of the way. I have had my head off three times last year. Got to disagree with Gary here. You'd be crazy to remove the exhaust manifold on the car. The nuts are hard to access, and even more so on your 96+ with the secondary air injection manifold. In addition they'll be corroded in place, and some of the studs will come out instead. Instead you undo the 6 very easy to access (from below) big nuts holding the manifold's two lower flanges to the cat pipes. The head gets lifted out (two people) with the manifold in place. You can then decide whether to leave it alone, replace the nuts and studs, install some nice headers (guess what I did <g>) or whatever. However you do need to take off the intake manifold first. There's stuff attached to it underneath, and other stuff to remove from the head that you can't otherwise get to. However here's a trick I learned from talking to my dealer mechanic - after I'd done the job, of course! He doesn't take the intake out of the car. Instead remove as much of the air intake system as you need to, then unbolt the intake manifold and bungee it off to the side. This avoids having to remove a bunch of other minor components. Wish I'd thought of that. On reassembly watch out for the vacuum hoses. It's almost inevitable the one of more of them will get left off or otherwise come off. My 96 had the spring plate. Thought that came with OBD-II? Maybe not? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#3. Re: TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:26:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: TC Kline Seat mounts and stock seatbelt receptacles on 2/17/05 1:37 PM, SCOTT DOTY <sdoty@optonline.net> wrote: > I posted on BF but so far no help East BF? > so maybe someone here can help. I have Recaro SPG's and Recaro mounts/sliders > attached to TC Kline seat mounts. The TC Kline mounts have a tab for mounting > the stock E36 seatbelt receptacles. I bought hardware to mount the > receptacles, but the head of the bolt interferes with the inboard Recaro seat > mount to the point of not being able to move the seat fore and aft. Did you call TCK and ask? Talk to Pete Stackhouse there. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket replacement question.... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 12:34:03 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket replacement question.... --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Got to disagree with Gary here. You'd be crazy to remove the exhaust > manifold on the car. The nuts are hard to access, and even more so on your > 96+ with the secondary air injection manifold. In addition they'll be > corroded in place, and some of the studs will come out instead. Instead you > undo the 6 very easy to access (from below) big nuts holding the manifold's > two lower flanges to the cat pipes. The head gets lifted out (two people) > with the manifold in place. You can then decide whether to leave it alone, > replace the nuts and studs, install some nice headers (guess what I did <g>) > or whatever. I gotta disagree with Neil here :) I can't imagine the exhaust manifold being seized to the head. Yes, the studs and stud nuts will be seized, but IMO, you should get a full set of replacements, coat them with antiseize install just the studs in the head once the head is off the engine. With just the studs, reinstallation of the exhaust manifold will be a snap. Also, those big 6 nuts are sometimes seized as well. So get some penetrating lube and spray that area down. Also, apply anti-seize on the nuts when reinstalling otherwise, you'll gall the threads and make future removal impossible without snapping the stud. ....which then requires removal of the exhaust manifold and a BFH to bang out the broken stud and then replacing with that $25 bolt...lol. Don't ask me how I know. Chester =====
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#5. FS: 225/45R17 Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 12:43:16 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 225/45R17 Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2 Hey all. After much hee-hawing with Michelin, they've decided to make things right and replace the absolutely horrible 225/45R17 Pilot Alpins that I bought last year. Unfortunately for me, since Michelin told me to f*ck off twice, I placed an order with Tirerack for some Pirelli snow tires and then filed a complaint with the BBB. So...I have a new set of PA2s on their way to me in the tri-state area. If anyone wants these, lemme know. I was thinking $500 and I can install them for you. Chester =====
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket replacement question.... - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 12:45:36 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Head gasket replacement question.... On Thu, February 17, 2005 12:37 pm, Chester Wong said: > I gotta disagree with Neil here :) I can't imagine the exhaust manifold > being > seized to the head. Well, I'm neither agreeing or disagreeing, but rather supplying a data point :-) When the head came off the race car the most recent time, we pulled the head with the exhaust manifold still attached. It was a lot easier to then remove the manifold with the assembly on a bench. However, the head went back on without the manifold, as it was easier to square it up to the block without that weight hanging off one side. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - also a recent valve job, sadly needs a bottom end next :-( 1993 325is #44 JP - hoping to keep the head ON for the whole season <knock on wood> :-)
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#7. Help with Alpine CDA 7894 - from Mel Silva
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:31:24 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Help with Alpine CDA 7894 Hi guys, I know I'm gonna get some flak, but I did look in the archives first if that's any consolation. Anyway, per the recommendation of some of you on this list I bought a used Alpine CDA 7894 head unit. My question is, what other stuff do I need? I know I need a Euro antenna adapter, but I'm concerned about the wiring harness. All this has are pins on the back of the unit and I got no adapter or remote. I should have read the ad a little better on eBay, whata dumba55. Can I get this stuff at Fry's or Car-Toys or do I need to order it from Crotchfield? <-- misspelled purposely I read somewhere else about a power lead in the driver's C-pillar for antenna power, could this be causing my AM reception failure? Is there anywhere to get spare parts for the install, like the "locking pins" on the sides of the unit? For those that did this install that have an HK system, did you send pre-amp or speaker level output to the amp? I'm so deathly afraid of totally screwing up the electronics under the dash that I break into a sweat when I think about butchering the factory wiring. After all, Penny has been very reliable for the past four years (touch wood) and I can't afford to jeopardize that. Thanks everyone, Mel PS> I fixed the ASC/TC pedal travel sensor error and thanks to you guys it was a 10 min job.
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#8.Thanks for the Tahoe replies - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 13:32:26 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: <OT> Thanks for the Tahoe replies Just wanted to thank everyone for the Tahoe replies. Lots and lots of information. So, here's my itinerary if anyone wants to join: Getting in at Sacremento, CA at 10:15pm on 3/10/2005. Airfare was cheaper than flying into Reno and my friend was able to swing that for his business trip. The package I picked included a three day lift ticket at Heavenly. If it proves challenging, we'll probably stay there though we had thoughts of going to Kirkwood too. As for my experience level, this is my second season snowboarding. After having gone to Colorado in January, my skills have definitely gotten better and I'm able to go down some black diamonds there as well as back here on the east coast. We'll board on the 13th and then head back to Sacremento. My flight doesn't leave until 12:35am...ugh, but my friend will be continuing to his ultimate destination (San Mateo) and probably will not wait around. So if anyone wants to meet up, dinner, drinks, whatever (no, I will not install a LTW flywheel...lol)..lemme know. I'd need a lift to the airport if you can accomodate :) Thanks again! Chester =====
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#9. Guido - I mean Guibo - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 22:25:52 -0700 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: Guido - I mean Guibo Since I already had to take off the entire exhaust system and manifold, I figure I'm gonna do a couple of "while I'm in theres." One is to replace the oozing valve cover gasket, the other is to replace the slightly-cracked-but-it's-only-going-to-get-worse flex coupling, aka guibo. Looking through my Bentley, both seem pretty straightforward. I had a couple of questions for anyone who's done either or both tasks before: 1 - For the valve cover gasket: do I have to pull the HVAC plenum out of the way? Kind of looks like the back couple of bolts will be interesting to get to with it in place. 2 - For the Guibo: do I need to buy new nuts and or bolts? Bentley says new nuts, the BMW parts guy says no. If "no", should I hit 'em with Loctite, and if so, what type? BTW, my exhaust manifold came off with very little fuss, except for it being heavy 'cause the turbo was still bolted to it (you can't get at the turbo mouting nuts when it's on the car. Lord knows I tried). I had smeared the studs with copper anti-seize before I put it on last time. Only four of 'em came out, the rest. I was even able to get the air ratchet on every nut except the front two. - Alain
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Guido - I mean Guibo - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 23:40:25 -0600 From: "Christopher Bauer" <c.bauer10@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Guido - I mean Guibo Everything Ive read says they are self locking nuts. Which means, one time use. That said, I've blue locktited them before. But given I have enough time, I will get new nuts everytime. They are cheap. The bolts will be fine to reuse. Chris 97M3 -----Original Message----- From: Alain van der Heide [mailto:ajvdh1@comcast.net] 2 - For the Guibo: do I need to buy new nuts and or bolts? Bentley says new nuts, the BMW parts guy says no. If "no", should I hit 'em with Loctite, and if so, what type? - Alain