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#1. Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 22:05:46 -0700 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) My flex disk showed up, and I had a spare 1/2 hour, so I thought I'd see how far I could get on the replacement project. The car was already up on stands, and the exhaust system out. So I pulled the heat shield and support, and then looked at my Bentley. Well, the text and drawings don't seem to match the reality of the underside of my 95 M3. On page 260-4, step 5 of "Driveshaft, removing" says: "Loosen threaded clamping sleeve on driveshaft a few turns. See Fig. 4.." I looked at fig 4, as well as fig 5. They show the driveshaft necking down just forward of the center bearing, and some hex nut looking thing that I suppose is the alleged "threaded clamping sleeve". Then I looked at my driveshaft. It doesn't neck down, and their ain't nuthin' that looks like the clamping sleeve. The car is bone stock and nothing in the driveline has ever been out of the car. I'm guessing the M3 is different from the other E36s, and Bentley didn't break out the differences in the manual. Can I just loosen the center bearing, or is their some other step that takes the place of the loosening of the mythical threaded clamping sleeve? - Alain
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#2. RE: HIR headlight bulbs - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 23:51:13 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: HIR headlight bulbs Rich commented: >Personally, I am a bit surprised that Don has never been brighted with >"Gonzo" HIRs in his stock US E36 M3 headlight since their beam pattern >isn't exactly stellar with fairly poor cutoff. I know Daniel Stern did not >recommend using HIRs in US headlight assemblies like the E36 M3. I actually was also surprised. :-) Happily surprised actually. I've also seen several references to the "poor beam pattern" of the E36/US headlight - it really is a pattern that conforms *fully* to the NHTSA Standard 108.. My plots of it look almost exactly like what the NHTSA proposed as an acceptable pattern. The upwards beam component is probably no more than any other US design headlight. The cutoff is exactly how NHTSA wants it to be - with a central upward component to illuminate overhead signs (I have all the documents on the NHTSA docs.. some of that will be in the article.. under "WHY do we have such crappy headlights?") I gave the Gonzo option what I consider the "acid test" - I drove with them in my father's senior-only-development at night. Average age about 70, but LOTS well over that (including my father..) I CANNOT drive through there with the E39 factory HIDs at night without getting flashed. I have driven through several times with the Gonzo's installed on the E36 and have not gotten flashed at all. As mentioned, I have yet to be flashed with them. I also tried seeing how much glare they produce by the simple technique of driving towards my E36 with the lights on.. They are not really annoying. They are MUCH less annoying than any SUV with HID's and most US cars with HIDs (which are not self-leveling..) and since they aren't "blue" looking - I don't think they trigger the "I hate HID's so I'm gonna flash'm syndrome." And if you read Daniel Sterns ummm... rant^h^h^h^h article.. on blue-bulbs, you might see why they aren't annoying.. they don't have a big blue component to them. So - I was also surprised considering what I'd read, but I'm happy with them, and I think they're in there to stay. I really wonder if *any* of the articles critical of this application have actually TRIED using them in the E36 housing? I haven't seen that stated yea or nay anywhere.. To be a good citizen - I would only recommend using them with a new housing or one where you've restored the front plastic cover. Yhe usual pitting and scratches may be what triggered critical comments about E36 glare. Plus you'll get a lot more light with a clear front cover - even if you don't change the bulb from stock. In the article I'll have a sidebar on how to polish your E36 plastic headlights.. (not original, lots of people have done it - but I think lots still don't know or are afraid to try doing it.) Mine turned out quite nice, as did the set someone sent me to try it on.. and both looked really awful when I started. >I use HIRs in my 1991 318is converted to ellipsoids and appreciate the >additional light and the easy to adjust beam pattern to avoid casting >light onto oncoming motorists. Weren't all the E38 ellipsoids H1's? Or did you convert the US housing somehow? >Regards, >Rich Best, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#3. Re: Engine Mounts - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 23:28:58 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Engine Mounts Chris- I did this very recently after going to all the trouble to fabricate an engine support brace that spans the hood recesses. With the front of the car on jack stands (and secured) I removed the X-brace, loosened the transmission braces and unbolted the downpipes from the exhaust headers. Using a 2x6 block on my jack, I was able to raise each side just enough to remove and replace the mounts. I can't testify as to how orthodox the procedure is but it worked and saved the need to drop the subframe and get an alignment. (That happens soon when I secure the oil pump nut.) Steve On Feb 24, 2005, at 10:46 PM, E36M3 wrote: > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Engine Mount Replacement > > Has anyone replaced the engine mounts without using a hoist? > I was wondering if I could put a 2x8 or somthing below the oilpan, > and use a floor jack to hold the motor while I replace one mount > at a time? > > Or is a hoist required? > > Chris > 97 M3/4
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 01:22:36 -0600 From: "Christopher Bauer" <c.bauer10@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) Alain, I had a look-see at my driveshaft, about 2 months ago. It had the clamp sleeve, it necked down, it had the hex thing. As did my stock e30. Are you sure yours is stock? you're going to need to be able to push the driveshaft onto itself.. the center support bearing isn't going to prevent that, IIRC, but there ought to be visible splines and a sleeve, somewhere on it. otherwise, you're going to have to drop the shaft partially, (taking the center support bearing off its mooring) in a bent configuration, in order to get it partially out. and even then, I am not sure there isn't some sleeve sliding interaction going on. Chris 97m3 also my opinion that the e36 Bentley is almost useless for any really good info, when compared to the e30 version. ----Original Message----- From: Alain van der Heide [mailto:ajvdh1@comcast.net] Well, the text and drawings don't seem to match the reality of the underside of my 95 M3. On page 260-4, step 5 of "Driveshaft, removing" says: "Loosen threaded clamping sleeve on driveshaft a few turns. See Fig. 4.." I looked at fig 4, as well as fig 5. They show the driveshaft necking down just forward of the center bearing, and some hex nut looking thing that I suppose is the alleged "threaded clamping sleeve". Then I looked at my driveshaft. It doesn't neck down, and their ain't nuthin' that looks like the clamping sleeve. The car is bone stock and nothing in the driveline has ever been out of the car. I'm guessing the M3 is different from the other E36s, and Bentley didn't break out the differences in the manual. Can I just loosen the center bearing, or is their some other step that takes the place of the loosening of the mythical threaded clamping sleeve? - Alain
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Bad rotors question - from Walter J
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 07:40:27 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad rotors question arionatof@comcast.net wrote: >The mechanic concluded the rotors had gone bad because a spot had developed where the brake pad is, supposily this happens a lot for idle vehicles sitting under the elements. > > I have always been able to cure this with a few hard applications of the middle pedal... it is usually just a rust spot that develops where moisture is trapped between the pad and rotor that causes an uneven surface friction. Not that that helps you now...
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#6. Re: Engine Mount Replacement - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 05:49:00 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Engine Mount Replacement Chris, I've replaced them without a hoist, although I do have a hoist in the garage. I did exactly as you described, jacking on a (protected) oil pan. I did one side at a time. Remove the bolt, jack up the engine, replace the mount, let it back down. Rinse and repeat. Easy job. Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325 #76 JP/ITS >Has anyone replaced the engine mounts without using a >hoist?I was wondering if I could put a 2x8 or >somthing below the oilpan,and use a floor jack to >hold the motor while I replace one mountat a time? >Or is a hoist required? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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#7. Ellipsoid Bulb Options - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:11:08 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Ellipsoid Bulb Options I upgraded to ellipsoids when my car was being repaired, so I haven't really done anything except notice that the bulbs are different than the old ones. I also aimed them and noticed they have a whiter, brighter, tighter pattern. Still haven't hooked up the driving light options, but thanks for the links... First Question: So if one of my high or low beam bulbs (are they different?) goes out, how do I go about buying replacement 'stock' ellipsoid bulb? What are the numbers? So I guess HID's are not the only upgrade option with talk about these HIR bulbs. Second Question: Are the HIR's sixty dollars brighter than 'stock' ellipsoids? I'm assuming similar findings with the ellipsoids as with the stock plastic lenses. Sounds like the 'Gonzo' option really is quite brighter, but require careful aiming to avoid driver annoyance. Looking forward to the article in the Roundel. -J
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#8. Bulb options - from K.C. Boyce
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:30:58 -0500 From: "K.C. Boyce" <k_boyce@e30eta.com> Subject: Bulb options Has anyone ever successfully changed a bulb's mounting base? I'm wondering because I have the Euro reflectors (H7) on my M3, and would love to try out the HIR bulbs. The base, being US-spec, won't fit neatly into the H7 mount (and even if it did, it looks like the filament position would be incorrect). I'd be interested to try swapping the HIR bulb's base with a H7 base...of course also assuming that I can get the filament in the correct place for the reflectors. Anyone BTDT? KC Boyce '97 M3/4
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Bad rotors question - from arionatof@comcast.net
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 14:56:29 +0000 From: arionatof@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad rotors question Thanks for the explanantion! I actually tried the middle pedal approach but it didn't work; must have been one hell of a rust spot. Oh well, more than half of the front rotors were worn, so it was meant to be changed .... -- mailto:mclee@ieee.org > Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 07:40:27 -0500 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad rotors question > > arionatof@comcast.net wrote: > > >The mechanic concluded the rotors had gone bad because a spot had developed > where the brake pad is, supposily this happens a lot for idle vehicles sitting > under the elements. > > > > > I have always been able to cure this with a few hard applications of the > middle pedal... it is usually just a rust spot that develops where > moisture is trapped between the pad and rotor that causes an uneven > surface friction. Not that that helps you now... > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: Bad rotors question - from Steve Cooperman
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 12:05:41 -0700 From: Steve Cooperman <bullseye600@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Bad rotors question I suspect that the mechanic used an impact wrench to tighten the wheel mounting bolts. Overtightening the bolts can distort the rotor. Hope this helps. Steve Cooperman 1998 M3/2, 2001 540i/6 speed, 2002 530ia (wife's ride) Tucson, Arizona On Friday, February 25, 2005, you wrote: From: arionatof@comcast.net Subject: Bad rotors question I am very puzzled about this. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. My car was in a bad accident two months ago. Got rear ended but was able to drive home with no brake issues. It took two months of wait to have it finished due to the shop's schedule. Got it back this week and it looks really good, until I drove it. Got bad pulsating vibration from the front when I apply the brake. I suspected the rotors but I wanted a professional to do it in case it is accident related. The mechanic concluded the rotors had gone bad because a spot had developed where the brake pad is, supposily this happens a lot for idle vehicles sitting under the elements. My question is why .... rotors will just go bad? Anyway, the y were replaced and it is fine now, though I can't really blame it on the accidient... -Johnny 98 M3/4 94K - On the road again. -- mailto:mclee@ieee.org