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#1. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 11:23:44 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options On Fri, February 25, 2005 6:16 am, Jonathan Evans said: > First Question: So if one of my high or low beam bulbs (are they > different?) goes out, how do I go about buying replacement 'stock' > ellipsoid bulb? What are the numbers? For the European ellipsoids, the high & low beam bulbs are the same. They are an "H1" bulb. I get mine usually through BMP Design, but I would imagine they are fairly common and can be gotten at a local auto parts store. Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 11:23:51 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options Local AutoZone, etc. The Sylvania SilverStar's are pretty good but cost about $19.00 each. I run them in my fogs. Kent Jim Bassett wrote: >Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 11:23:44 -0800 (PST) >From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options > >On Fri, February 25, 2005 6:16 am, Jonathan Evans said: > > >>First Question: So if one of my high or low beam bulbs (are they >>different?) goes out, how do I go about buying replacement 'stock' >>ellipsoid bulb? What are the numbers? >> >> > >For the European ellipsoids, the high & low beam bulbs are the same. They >are an "H1" bulb. I get mine usually through BMP Design, but I would >imagine they are fairly common and can be gotten at a local auto parts >store. > >Jim Bassett > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 11:42:49 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options On Fri, February 25, 2005 11:36 am, Kent L. Shephard said: > Local AutoZone, etc. > The Sylvania SilverStar's are pretty good but cost about $19.00 each. Now I know why I buy mine mail-order: $8.95 (or so) for Hella/Osram 55w H1 (similar price for the 100W I used to use). :-) Jim Bassett
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#4. RE: Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 15:02:42 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) Alain asks: >My flex disk showed up, and I had a spare 1/2 hour, so I thought I'd see >how far I could get on the replacement project. The car was already up on >stands, and the exhaust system out. So I pulled the heat shield and >support, and then looked at my Bentley. > >Well, the text and drawings don't seem to match the reality of the >underside of my 95 M3. On page 260-4, step 5 of "Driveshaft, removing" >says: "Loosen threaded clamping sleeve on driveshaft a few turns. See >Fig. 4.." > >I looked at fig 4, as well as fig 5. They show the driveshaft necking >down just forward of the center bearing, and some hex nut looking thing >that I suppose is the alleged "threaded clamping sleeve". Then I looked >at my driveshaft. It doesn't neck down, and their ain't nuthin' that >looks like the clamping sleeve. The car is bone stock and nothing in the >driveline has ever been out of the car. Having been up close and personal with my driveshaft last week (clutch got changed) - mine has the locking collar nut on the front section of the driveshaft (and mine was loose.. much better when it's tight..) This is sorta typical BMW. On my '87 535i - the dealer had to order a driveshaft three times before he got the right one for my car.. even using the VIN# didn't work. BMW had fitted 3 different ones to the cars that year and they all had the same PN. Go figure.. >I'm guessing the M3 is different from the other E36s, and Bentley didn't >break out the differences in the manual. Can I just loosen the center >bearing, or is their some other step that takes the place of the loosening >of the mythical threaded clamping sleeve? Just loosen the center bearing and let the driveshaft drop down. When reinstalling it - remember to preload it towards the transmission. >- Alain Best, _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad rotors question - from arionatof@comcast.net
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 20:19:32 +0000 From: arionatof@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Bad rotors question Well, the last person who put the front wheels on the car was .... me, when I switch to snow tires 2 months ago. Then I had the accident the next day :( I am more to believe the big rust spot build up after two months of idle time. -- mailto:mclee@ieee.org > Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 12:05:41 -0700 > From: Steve Cooperman <bullseye600@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: Bad rotors question > > I suspect that the mechanic used an impact wrench to tighten the wheel > mounting bolts. Overtightening the bolts can distort the rotor. > > Hope this helps. > > Steve Cooperman > 1998 M3/2, 2001 540i/6 speed, 2002 530ia (wife's ride) > Tucson, Arizona > > On Friday, February 25, 2005, you wrote: > > From: arionatof@comcast.net > Subject: Bad rotors question > > I am very puzzled about this. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. > > My car was in a bad accident two months ago. Got rear ended but was > able to drive home with no brake issues. It took two months of wait to > have it finished due to the shop's schedule. Got it back this week and > it looks really good, until I drove it. Got bad pulsating vibration > from the front when I apply the brake. I suspected the rotors but I > wanted a professional to do it in case it is accident related. The > mechanic concluded the rotors had gone bad because a spot had developed > where the brake pad is, supposily this happens a lot for idle vehicles > sitting under the elements. > > My question is why .... rotors will just go bad? Anyway, the y were > replaced and it is fine now, though I can't really blame it on the > accidient... > > -Johnny 98 M3/4 94K - On the road again. > > -- > mailto:mclee@ieee.org > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) - from ajvdh1@comcast.net
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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 22:13:41 +0000 From: ajvdh1@comcast.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) > Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 01:22:36 -0600 > From: "Christopher Bauer" <c.bauer10@verizon.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Drive shaft question (son of a Guibo) > > Alain, > > I had a look-see at my driveshaft, about 2 months ago. It had the clamp > sleeve, it necked down, it had the hex thing. As did my stock e30. Are you > sure yours is stock? I spoke to the always helpful Dave S. at Bimmerhaus and found out the deal. There are at least two different drive shaft configurations in the E36. Most ofthem, including later M3s such as yours, had the driveshaft as pictured in Bentley. The '95 manual box M3 have a CV joint at the diff, which is where the driveshaft can slide in and out a tad. He wasn't sure, but he thought that the 95 automatics had "Bentley" configuration. Dave told me to just drop the center bearing and everything should pull clear enough to get the guibo out. So now I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Thanks, - Alain
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#7. FS: JET HOT Shorty Headers '92-'95 OBD1 E36, E34, Z3 - from Lee Piccione
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 00:03:09 -0500 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: FS: JET HOT Shorty Headers '92-'95 OBD1 E36, E34, Z3 Gruppe, I'm selling what this subject line describes. They are new/never used. Paid $550 for them, first $475 takes them (shipping included). Paypal preferred.... Lee '95 M3 Violet
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Bad rotors question - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 08:38:39 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bad rotors question I ma going to agree with Walter on this. When my car was in the shop to get a new front bumper cover and undertray (tire carcass incident), it exhibited this bad brake rotor condition. I knew that we had some very wet weather during this period and I suspect that my car was outside in the rain while they worked on painting the front bumper cover. It took several hard brake applications to 'clean up' the rotors, after which I got another year of use out of them before replacing them with the Zimmermans. Mel
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 12:16:18 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid Bulb Options > Now I know why I buy mine mail-order: $8.95 (or so) for Hella/Osram 55w H1 > (similar price for the 100W I used to use). Mail order from where??? Anyone know if these Osram 55w H1 are brighter than the stock H1 ones that come with the ellipsoid kit from Umnitza? I'm assuming pretty similar output? ted
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#10. Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck - from Chris Blumenthal
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 12:41:27 -0800 From: "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> Subject: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck I bought a '95 M3 about six months ago with ~63K miles. Maintenance history shows reasonably frequent oil changes using Redline oil. I promptly changed the oil when I got the car using Redline 10/40. The motor has used the better part of a quart of oil in ~2700 miles of driving. I drive the car at least weekly, long enough to get the oil up to operating temp. When cleaning the engine room recently (some large rodent is collecting foodstuffs and storing it in various locations under hood...), I noticed that there appear to be deposits around the inside of the filler neck. It also looks like there is a patina over everything. This patina has brownish-gold look to it, and is similar to the shellac you find inside motors that have not had proper oil maintenance. The deposits apparently are oil sludge, covered with the gold patina. The bare spots you can see in the pics are areas where I have rubbed off the patina down to the underlying aluminum. The sludge itself looks unremarkable, but I wonder why it is even there. I guess this is a somewhat protected area, because of the plastic shield that keeps oil from splashing up from the valve train. However, the wife's '97 M3/4 doesn't seem to have any such sludge. What really bothers me is that the shellac-like stuff seems to come off in flakes when rubbed- I can avoid rubbing it, but I would not want a flake to come off and wash into an oil passage. Please have a look at these pics and comment. http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_filler1.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_filler2.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_sludge.jpg Chris Blumenthal