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#1. Grill mesh? - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 16:45:50 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Grill mesh? Does anyone know of anyone who sells an aftermarket mesh for the front grill that is aluminum. Mine is cracked and I'd like to shed the plastic. Shel
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#2. Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck - from Steve Cooperman
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 15:59:15 -0700 From: Steve Cooperman <bullseye600@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck Hi Chris, I found the same deposits inside the oil filler neck on my 98 M3 and 2002 530ia. I suspect that this is normal. What you should be concerned about is the apparent packrat problem. They can build nests and/or store food inside the engine compartment. Packrats have a copper deficiency in their diet so they try to eat copper. The wires in your car are a prime target. Insulation on the wires is just a yummy appetizer for them. This can be frustrating and expensive to deal with (BTDT). Parking cars outside makes them an easy target for packrats. I recently learned that parking cars on the outer edges of airport parking lots for several days also puts the car at risk for packrat damage. The outer edges of the parking lots are closer to where the packrats live. I now park toward the center of these large parking lots. Steve Cooperman 1998 M3, 2001 540i/6, 2002 530ia (wife's ride) Tucson, Arizona Sat, 26 Feb 2005 12:41:27 -0800 From: "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> Subject: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck I bought a '95 M3 about six months ago with ~63K miles. some stuff snipped When cleaning the engine room recently (some large rodent is collecting foodstuffs and storing it in various locations under hood...), I noticed that there appear to be deposits around the inside of the filler neck. It also looks like there is a patina over everything. more stuff snipped Chris Blumenthal
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#3. RE: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 18:37:34 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck Chris said: >I bought a '95 M3 about six months ago with ~63K miles. Maintenance >history shows reasonably frequent oil changes using Redline oil. I >promptly changed the oil when I got the car using Redline 10/40. The >motor has used the better part of a quart of oil in ~2700 miles of >driving. I drive the car at least weekly, long enough to get the oil up >to operating temp. > >When cleaning the engine room recently (some large rodent is collecting >foodstuffs and storing it in various locations under hood...), Bad thing.. they sometimes start eating the wiring which can get really expensive really fast. It's enough of a problem in Yurop that BMW makes a kit that puts a 10Kv or so electronic shield under the car to shock the things before they eat up the car. Really.. >I noticed >that there appear to be deposits around the inside of the filler neck. >It also looks like there is a patina over everything. This patina has >brownish-gold look to it, and is similar to the shellac you find inside >motors that have not had proper oil maintenance. Every M5x (50, 52) engine I've owned or looked at - had some brownish buildup on the inside of the oil cap, and some down in the filler neck. I did poke the stuff on the oil cap and it does come off fairly easily. >The deposits apparently >are oil sludge, covered with the gold patina. The bare spots you can see >in the pics are areas where I have rubbed off the patina down to the >underlying aluminum. The sludge itself looks unremarkable, but I wonder >why it is even there. I guess this is a somewhat protected area, because >of the plastic shield that keeps oil from splashing up from the valve >train. My thought also... plus if there is moisture in the air in the crankcase - it is likely to accumulate under the cap since thats the highest point it can get to, and it may combine somehow with hot oil to form the varnish looking stuff. >However, the wife's '97 M3/4 doesn't seem to have any such >sludge. Really interesting - what oil has been running in your wifes car? >What really bothers me is that the shellac-like stuff seems to >come off in flakes when rubbed- I can avoid rubbing it, but I would not >want a flake to come off and wash into an oil passage. Please have a >look at these pics and comment. Doesn't look all that awful IMHO. I'd try to avoid poking at the stuff, I suspect it will happily stay where it is. I've never heard of any problem attributed to it. >Chris Blumenthal It was useful more than once for me to use as a bargaining tool when dickering for a used M5x engined BMW :-) _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#4. Hyperactive Tachometer - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 01:19:49 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Hyperactive Tachometer Gruppe, My tachometer has gone wacky recently. What I mean by that is that it recently started jumping upward in RPM's inconsistent with the engine speed. Very quickly it has gotten worse and now is totally unusable as it's always jumping around almost doing a 360 degree spin. I at first thought that it was possibly a loose or corroded connection, but am beginning to wonder. Today I played with the throttle at a red light to see if it varied in the jumpiness, and it did. The needle had settled down and was reading what appeared to be normal idle speed, with a blip f the throttle, the needle went crazy and took a long time to settle down (15+ seconds). Has anyone experienced this before? If it's a bad gauge and I have to replace it, what does a used tach/instrument cluster go for? What problems will I run into with changing a cluster out that includes someone else's odometer? Thanks for any input, Dave A 95 ///M3 (w/a really high revving tach)
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#5. Tie Down Options - from KResener@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 09:07:59 EST From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Tie Down Options With the trade of my e39 for an X5, I'm now set to tow my M3 to the track. I've received advice on securing the car to the trailer ranging from straps through the wheels, to "T" hooks inserted into the jack pad holes in the frame. What is the most widely accepted method out there for securing the car on a trailer? An update on my underdrive pulley install: Apparently I have a unique power steering pump that neither of the pulleys from UUC would fit. First pulley looked similar to the original, but when installed, rubbed on the pump itself, as if the pulley was too large. Second pulley put the belt groove in the wrong plane, relating to the other pulleys grooves. Anyone else ever come across this? Kurt Resener Louisville, KY '95 ///M3 '01 X5 97 Audi A6 Quattro Avant '75 Mercedes 280c
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#6. Fw: [CR] Tying down an E36 on an open trailer - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 06:23:43 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Fw: [CR] Tying down an E36 on an open trailer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> To: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 5:59 AM Subject: Re: [CR] Tying down an E36 on an open trailer > Some more info in addition to what Mark has already posted. > > If your trailer has suspension, you want the car's suspension to be > immobile. So, tieing down from the chassis is preferred. That way the > suspension of the trailer does the work and not the expensive shocks on the > car. > > If your trailer doesn't have suspension, then the preferred method is to tie > the car down by the wheel/tire, such as a strap thru the wheel or those over > the tire tie-down straps. This allows the car's suspension to absorb bumps > since the trailer has none. > > For rear tie-down, you can buy or make hook eyes that bolt onto the rear > shock mount. A piece of flat steel. I've seen them for sale, but can't > remember where. Bimmerworld, TMS, TCKR?? > > For front tie-down you can weld soemthing to the x-brace. But, unless > you're removing your bumber for loading and tie down, I think it would be > very hard to access these areas. > > I use the t-hook method. I use 10K lb straps. I cross my straps both front > and rear and I strap that baby down as tight as I can get it. I tow with > e-brake on and car in neutral. Recently towed the car from southern Oregon > to Milpitas and back to have a roll cage installed. Absolutely no drama. > Even on those crummy bay area freeways. 680 is awful! I thought I was on a > motocross course, complete with hooptydoos. > > Good luck - Jay > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> > To: <club-racing-list@bimmers.com>; <e36racers@pdc-racing.net> > Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 8:32 PM > Subject: [CR] Tying down an E36 on an open trailer > > > > I finally made the leap and bought an open trailer to haul my '95 M3 club > > racer. Having never towed a car before, I was hoping I could get some tips > > from the group. > > > > I know the ideal way to secure the car is with T-hooks -- any advice on > > where I can order them from? I stopped at a few local towing supply places > > and couldn't find them. > > > > How could I go about securing the car without the T-hooks? I doubt I'll > > have them in time for the Golden Gate Chapter driving school next weekend, > > and I'd like to tow the car there. Where can I safely attach the straps? > > Should I criss-cross the strapping? > > > > I'd like to have a tire rack installed on the trailer -- where do you go > to > > have someone do this? Any advice on SF Bay Area shops to do the work? > > > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > > > -peter*g >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Tie Down Options - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 10:06:22 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tie Down Options On Feb 27, 2005, at 6:16 AM, KResener@aol.com wrote: > With the trade of my e39 for an X5, I'm now set to tow my M3 to the > track. > I've received advice on securing the car to the trailer ranging from > straps > through the wheels, to "T" hooks inserted into the jack pad holes in > the > frame. > What is the most widely accepted method out there for securing the car > on a > trailer? T-hooks, as the factory does when transporting the cars. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#8. Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 13:23:54 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck on 2/26/05 3:56 PM, "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> wrote: > I bought a '95 M3 about six months ago with ~63K miles. Maintenance > history shows reasonably frequent oil changes using Redline oil. I > promptly changed the oil when I got the car using Redline 10/40. The > motor has used the better part of a quart of oil in ~2700 miles of > driving. I drive the car at least weekly, long enough to get the oil up > to operating temp. That's reasonable oil consumption for an M3. > When cleaning the engine room recently (some large rodent is collecting > foodstuffs and storing it in various locations under hood...), I noticed > that there appear to be deposits around the inside of the filler neck. > It also looks like there is a patina over everything. This patina has > brownish-gold look to it, and is similar to the shellac you find inside > motors that have not had proper oil maintenance. The deposits apparently > are oil sludge, covered with the gold patina. The bare spots you can see > in the pics are areas where I have rubbed off the patina down to the > underlying aluminum. The sludge itself looks unremarkable, but I wonder > why it is even there. I guess this is a somewhat protected area, because > of the plastic shield that keeps oil from splashing up from the valve > train. However, the wife's '97 M3/4 doesn't seem to have any such > sludge. What really bothers me is that the shellac-like stuff seems to > come off in flakes when rubbed- I can avoid rubbing it, but I would not > want a flake to come off and wash into an oil passage. Please have a > look at these pics and comment. > http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_filler1.jpg > http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_filler2.jpg > http://home.comcast.net/~chris_blumenthal/m3_sludge.jpg > Chris Blumenthal This is definitely not normal. It's hard to tell from your pix (not because they aren't good, but because texture and feel are part of it), but you seem either to have shiny metallic particles in the oil, or if it's more of a mayonnaise-like consistency then it's oil/coolant emulsion (head gasket). Obviously neither is good news. I'd be inclined to: 1) Remove the engine cover and cam cover to inspect the cam/valve area for additional deposits or sludge. This is easy with ordinary tools. Another easy place to look is inside the oil filter canister. 2) Send an oil sample for analysis. This only costs around $25 and will give a very specific indication of what's in there. I would also avoid driving the car until this is resolved. For comparison the head and oil pan of my 80+K mile M3 with many hard track miles are both squeaky clean. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. Hyperactive Tachometer - UPDATE - Now Cutting Engine Out!!! - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:45:36 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Hyperactive Tachometer - UPDATE - Now Cutting Engine Out!!! Ok, had to drive the car again today and another, maybe unrelated but worse symptom appeared today. Cruising along about 85 in fifth gear, the car suddenly and momentarily seemed like it hit the rev limiter. All of a sudden all power went away, but the engine didn't die. This was momentarily only, afterwards everything was normal (except for the jumpy tach). This happened three times in a 15 mile highway trip, then later in the day on the return trip - twice. All of the time the tach is almost circling around on itself - looks like a Bugs Bunny cartoon where the dials go wacky! It never occurred to me before that the car may be thinking it's over revving and hit the rev limiter - but if that was the case, why only sometimes? Anyone have any ideas? Dave 95 ///M3 - starting to convulse! -----Original Message----- From: Dave Arnold [mailto:air2daa@insightbb.com] Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 1:27 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Hyperactive Tachometer Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 01:19:49 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Hyperactive Tachometer Gruppe, My tachometer has gone wacky recently. What I mean by that is that it recently started jumping upward in RPM's inconsistent with the engine speed. Very quickly it has gotten worse and now is totally unusable as it's always jumping around almost doing a 360 degree spin. I at first thought that it was possibly a loose or corroded connection, but am beginning to wonder. Today I played with the throttle at a red light to see if it varied in the jumpiness, and it did. The needle had settled down and was reading what appeared to be normal idle speed, with a blip f the throttle, the needle went crazy and took a long time to settle down (15+ seconds). Has anyone experienced this before? If it's a bad gauge and I have to replace it, what does a used tach/instrument cluster go for? What problems will I run into with changing a cluster out that includes someone else's odometer? Thanks for any input, Dave A 95 ///M3 (w/a really high revving tach) ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 17:08:29 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Sludge/Shellac in Filler Neck In a message dated 2/27/2005 1:27:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, neil.maller@gte.net writes: 2) Send an oil sample for analysis. This only costs around $25 and will give a very specific indication of what's in there. That's a very good idea from Neil. I've had good service for this from Blackstone Labs www.blackstone-labs.com Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004