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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 15:29:09 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster > Actually, you can have the cluster match the plug once you change. > I forget the procedure but it can be done. This _may_ be true. There was a change in clusters mid 1995 Model Year. Prior to the change, the mileage was hard-coded into the cluster, after the change it was coded into a coding plug which can be removed from the cluster and inserted into a new/used one. The only way to tell which kind you have is to remove the cluster and examine the back of it. There is a break-out section on the lower left which can be removed with a pair of pliers, if it has a removable coding plug underneath it you are in luck. If your car is not equipped with a removable coding plug, you have two legal remedies which are: 1. Buy a new cluster from BMW and have it sent to New Jersey to be coded with the mileage taken from your old cluster. This takes about 6 weeks and requires that your car be parked at the dealer during the entire process. 2. Buy a new cluster from BMW and install it with 0 miles showing. You must then install a sticker on the driver's side door jamb indicating how many miles were on the car when the cluster was reset to 0. In either case a new cluster must be programmed by BMW using the DIS system before it will work in your car. I went through this with my 95 M3 when the right side of the cluster stopped working at 77K miles. Unfortunately I had to have a 0 mile cluster installed and programmed only to have it stop working again 500 miles later. The problem turned out to be a malfunctioning DME, I replaced that and 23K miles later everything is still good. The new cluster cost me $600 ($900 list) from BMW + $125 for programing, the used DME cost $450. -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#2. Re: [E36M3] RTAB R&R - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 16:34:31 -0500 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RTAB R&R This is what i used when i did mine... http://www.tunnellracing.com/techtips/trailbush.html HTH... Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - B-Street Prepared #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 3/2/2005 3:06:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> writes: >Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 13:03:58 -0700 >From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> >Subject: RTAB R&R > >Now that the season is almost upon us, I need to R&R the RTABS on my '97. >Is there a good writeup anywhere? I have the Bentley manual. Any words of >wisdod over and above what the book says? >TIA, > Graeme
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster - from jsf03724@san.rr.com
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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:54:48 +0000 (GMT) From: jsf03724@san.rr.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster ----- Original Message ----- From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Date: Wednesday, March 2, 2005 9:36 pm > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 15:29:09 -0600 > From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge > Cluster > > Actually, you can have the cluster match the plug once you change. > > I forget the procedure but it can be done. > > This _may_ be true. There was a change in clusters mid 1995 Model > Year. Prior to the change, the mileage was hard-coded into the > cluster, after the change it was coded into a coding plug which can be > removed from the cluster and inserted into a new/used one. The only > way to tell which kind you have is to remove the cluster and examine > the back of it. There is a break-out section on the lower left which > can be removed with a pair of pliers, if it has a removable coding > plug underneath it you are in luck. > Well, this is frustrating to read. In Mar 01, I got my 98 M3/2 CPO from BMW of San Diego. A few of the LED segments were out on the odometer, so they fixed it under CPO warranty - fixed it by swapping out the instrument cluster for a new one. The plug described above was not moved, so now I have the sticker: > 2. Buy a new cluster from BMW and install it with 0 miles showing. > You must then install a sticker on the driver's side door jamb > indicating how many miles were on the car when the cluster was reset > to 0. So, I have about 33k on the sticker, and 33k on the odomoter, for a total of 66k. Thanks for reminding me of yet another reason I hate BMW of San Diego - primarily the tech department only does things part way. (Several other examples while having CPO things done to the car...) Done venting. Jim
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#4. Wacky tachy problem - Cluster Found, but now anti-tamper questions - from air2daa@insightbb.com
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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 23:49:47 +0000 From: air2daa@insightbb.com Subject: Wacky tachy problem - Cluster Found, but now anti-tamper questions Ok, a fellow list member knew someone willing to part with an extra cluster for a reasonable price <thank you Vince>. But now I have some questions about some of the comments some of the other list members have made. 1. It seems like there is major disagreement about some type of red dot mileage tamper warning - from those who say there is a red dot that appears and others who say that there isn't one on the e36 M3. 2. I know that the little clear half circle "dot" under the 160 MPH mileage point on the speedo that some refer to as the tamper dot is a light sensor that adjust the brightness of the RED LCD mileage read out. I've played with this to verify. Turn on the ignition and lights while the ambient light is dim, then shine a pen light on the "dot" sensor and watch the LCD numbers, and even more noticeably the service indicator lights get brighter and dimmer - just like the Valentine VR1 unit (I just love good engineering). 3. I also know that there is a check gauge function that list different bits of information when you go through it. There, again, is varying opinion to what these numbers mean (does anyone know for sure?). To get the check gauage function, press and hold the trip reset button on the console and turn on the ignition to the first click. The display cycles through 6 sets of numbers, none make sense to me. My numbers of the borrowed gauge cluster read through as: 261654, 00000, 7583, 00557, 190, 46. Then all of the lights come on and the gauges go full on, then reset all together. The idiot lights also come on - brake lining, seat belt, etc. Nothing appeared to be the mileage as I know the mileage isn't 200,000+ miles and none of hte other numbers would make sense of being an interval of mileage driven from any maintenance events. So it doen't seem to me that there is anything tha tindicates the mielage has been tampered with. 4. With a new gauge cluster comming to me, is there a way to program the new (correct) mileage to the odometer so it reflects the correct mileage? That is, without buying a psecial programmer available for around $500. > Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 12:37:34 -0800 > From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster > > Actually, you can have the cluster match the plug once you change. > I forget the procedure but it can be done. > > Kent > > Don Eilenberger wrote: > > > Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 14:35:30 -0500 > > From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> > > Subject: RE: Wacky tachy problem found - Need Gauge Cluster > > > > Dave posted: > > > >> As a follow up on the hyper active tachometer and stumbling issue > >> that I've > >> been experiencing, I swapped out my gauge cluster with a friends and > >> all the > >> issues went away. My guess now is that either a component in the > >> gauge itself or as part of the cluster has went bad and I need to > >> replace mine. Does anyone have one that they are willing to sell? A > >> quick search of ebay last night found two at around $50, but one had > >> been modified with funky white gauge faces and the other was from an > >> automatic (M3 Automatic - WITW?) so I would rather get one that > >> nobody has dinked with if possible. My car is a 95 if that makes a > >> difference - anybody know? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Dave A > >> Wacky Tachy ///M3 > > > > > > Dunno.. but I know the E34 series had the odometer tampering warning, > > which shows a red dot next to the odometer reading if the cluster > > doesn't match the mileage recorded in the hidden module.. I would expect > > the E36 to have it also since it was a later design. > > > > Just curious if this showed up on your friends cluster after > > installing it in your car? > > > > AFAIK - the only way around this is to have the replacement cluster > > pre-configured for the correct miles before installation. > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > > -- > "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that > we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only > unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American > public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Wacky tachy problem - Cluster Found, but now anti-tamper questions - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 07:53:01 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wacky tachy problem - Cluster Found, but now anti-tamper questions > 4. With a new gauge cluster comming to me, is there a way to program the new > (correct) mileage to the odometer so it reflects the correct mileage? That > is, without buying a psecial programmer available for around $500. Yes, you can take it to the dealership who will either swap the coding plug from your old cluster (if it has one) or send it to New Jersey for you. Either way you will need to take it to the dealer for programming (with the car) if it is a _new_ cluster because it will not work unless you do. If it has already been programmed by BMW, then it should work but the mileage will be wrong. Please see my previous post on this subject, I am not making this up I went through this same exercise. -- Jamie Howton 2002 330i 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#6. Battery Vent - from KResener@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 09:04:08 EST From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Battery Vent I may have set a record of original battery longevity.... My battery in my 10 year old, 107,000 mile M3 finally gave out over the weekend. New Interstate was sourced and obtained easily enough, but after yanking the old battery out and not really paying attention to where the end of the vent tube went, I'm embarrassed to say that I can't see where the end of the vent tube should be stuck. There's one hole that looks like it may work, but it only goes into the fender cavity, and the gases would remain in the trunk area. Can someone enlighten me on where that vent tube goes? Thanks! Kurt Resener Louisville, KY '95 ///M3 '01 X5 '97 Audi A6 Quattro Avant '75 Mercedes 280c
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Battery Vent - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 07:21:07 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Battery Vent The vent tube goes through a hole in the battery compartment into the spare wheel well, then out through a grommet in the bottom of the spare wheel well to the outside. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: KResener@aol.com [mailto:KResener@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 7:07 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Battery Vent Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 09:04:08 EST From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Battery Vent I may have set a record of original battery longevity.... My battery in my 10 year old, 107,000 mile M3 finally gave out over the weekend. New Interstate was sourced and obtained easily enough, but after yanking the old battery out and not really paying attention to where the end of the vent tube went, I'm embarrassed to say that I can't see where the end of the vent tube should be stuck. There's one hole that looks like it may work, but it only goes into the fender cavity, and the gases would remain in the trunk area. Can someone enlighten me on where that vent tube goes? Thanks! Kurt Resener Louisville, KY '95 ///M3 '01 X5 '97 Audi A6 Quattro Avant '75 Mercedes 280c ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Ground Control Suspension Question. - from Townsend, William
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 10:43:17 -0500 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Ground Control Suspension Question. So I am thinking of the race version GC package from Bimmerworld since my M has 80K+ on the original suspension. (don't want ot go cut-n-gut method, want the camber plates and the adjustable dampers so the race package has all that) Had a couple questions for the list. I will be driving the car to DE events and some nice day to work drives but is mostly a track car. No winter driving. Do about 15 DE/yr. No intention to race the car, have about 40 track days now. Running RA1's (235/40-17 on 8.5 factory rims on all 4) and the stock factory suspension eats the outsides like candy. (read - not enough negative camber) Anyone had one of these for a while? Impressions? I am guessing I will need front wheel spacers, what size have worked with this setup? So, what spring rates have seemed to work on this set up? I run in the north east mostly and Mont Tremblant (Canada). Anyone had trouble with adjusting the rear perches? I plan to corner balance the car but I am concerned about the rear adjustable perches. Seems like the GC perches go at the bottom of the spring making them VERY hard to get to. Anyone run into this doing it themselves? My 328 has the Bilstein PSS kit with the perch at the bottom and this was a royal pain in the a** to adjust. Had to drop the rear suspension for every adjustment. General set up opinions are also welcome! Thanks, --Bill 96 M3 Coupe red
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Ground Control Suspension Question. - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 08:03:43 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ground Control Suspension Question. I've had mine since last year. What's not to like. I doubt you'll need spacers with the wheel/tire combo you've listed. I'd ask for the strut housings with extra "kick". These are made to give extra clearance between tire and spring/perch. I run 255s in both 17 and 18 sizes, using as small as a 5mm spacer. I run 600f/650r, mostly track car. Pretty stiff for the street. Fortunately, we have pretty good roads where I live (southern Oregon). But, I couldn't tolerate driving the freeways in the bay area with my springs. Rears are hard to adjust with my shorty springs and shocks. The rear springs are tight at full droop. So, I have to unbolt the shock to adjust. > Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 10:43:17 -0500 > From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> > Subject: Ground Control Suspension Question. > > > So I am thinking of the race version GC package from Bimmerworld since > my M has 80K+ on the original suspension. (don't want ot go cut-n-gut > method, want the camber plates and the adjustable dampers so the race > package has all that) Had a couple questions for the list. I will be > driving the car to DE events and some nice day to work drives but is > mostly a track car. No winter driving. Do about 15 DE/yr. No intention > to race the car, have about 40 track days now. Running RA1's (235/40-17 > on 8.5 factory rims on all 4) and the stock factory suspension eats the > outsides like candy. (read - not enough negative camber) > > Anyone had one of these for a while? Impressions? > > I am guessing I will need front wheel spacers, what size have worked > with this setup? > > So, what spring rates have seemed to work on this set up? I run in the > north east mostly and Mont Tremblant (Canada). > > Anyone had trouble with adjusting the rear perches? I plan to corner > balance the car but I am concerned about the rear adjustable perches. > Seems like the GC perches go at the bottom of the spring making them > VERY hard to get to. Anyone run into this doing it themselves? My 328 > has the Bilstein PSS kit with the perch at the bottom and this was a > royal pain in the a** to adjust. Had to drop the rear suspension for > every adjustment. > > General set up opinions are also welcome! > > Thanks, > --Bill > 96 M3 Coupe red
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Battery Vent - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 09:55:33 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Battery Vent On Thu, March 3, 2005 6:06 am, KResener@aol.com said: > New Interstate was sourced and obtained easily enough, but after yanking > the > old battery out and not really paying attention to where the end of the > vent > tube went, Ahh, first rules of DIY-ers: Pay attention to diassembly :-) (Sadly, I've violated that rule too many times for my liking.) I think Graeme covered the answer, I'll just add to make sure you got the "vent kit" with the Interstate battery, since it's vent hole is in a difference location than the OE battery. Jim Bassett