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#1. GC coil-over suspension Part II - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:16:11 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: GC coil-over suspension Part II Dear All, First, thanks very much to everyone to responded with their thoughts, and suggestions. It seems that the passenger side settled a bit over the past few days, so I raised the adjuster. Now the passenger side is closer to the top of the threads. I can only see 3 thread rings above the adjuster. (On the driver side, I cannot see any threads) From the ground to the fender lip, here are the measurements now.. Driver - 24.5" Pass - 24.25 On the read Driver - 24.75" Pass - 25.5" So the passenger side is ~1/4" lower than the driver side. I checked all of the part numbers, and they all match. I also measured both front struts, and they are the same size.. I would guess that the heights are close enough, but what bothers me is the issue of not being able to run "normal" camber for the street.. Any thoughts on getting taller springs? I have 6" 440lbs in the front, and 6.5" 545lbs springs in the rear.. Thanks! Mo 98 M3/4
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#2. GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:39:25 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? Dear All, Sorry, I had another question.. Right now I have the caster maxxed out. (The wheel is as forward as the plate will allow). If I reduce the caster, won't this bring up the front of the car some? Also reducing the camber a bit? thoughts? Mo
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#3. Re: Road racing games - from Ward, Chris
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:08:43 -0500 From: "Ward, Chris" <Cward@Contractlumber.com> Subject: Re: Road racing games >>I too recently had to break down and buy a playstation just so I could play GranTurismo. In fact, it's the only >>playstation game I own. I've been a GranTurismo fan since the beginning, and GT4 is even better than I expected. The Nurburgring is the most insane track in the game and I can't imagine people really racing on it. Hey Jeremy, we'll have to race some time. By the way, my car is the M3GTR :-) Chris Ward 95 M3
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#4. RE: Head Gasket Job - from Wes The Cargeek
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:10:34 -0500 From: Wes The Cargeek <cargeek@gmail.com> Subject: RE: Head Gasket Job Frank - I had the same problem as you at around 130K miles, it appeared to be merely the coolant etching its way through the head gasket at cylinder #6 (back of engine?). I only replaced the head gasket, as all the head parts were tight (11/94 build). I wish I had replaced both knock sensors while I was in there, because 20K miles later one of them failed and I had to take the whole intake off again. You should certainly replace the heater hoses, as I did the same thing while in there. There's probably no need to do new retainers unless you track the car...similarly, I would probably keep the stock fan unless you (or your tech) don't mind the "aftermarket" stuff. But, if you want to do new retainers, I believe the 1996+ retainers (don't have my ETK with me) are the ones you should be looking for (somebody please verify). Good luck! Wes
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#5. Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:49:53 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? Mo- I'm confused by your description of how you have your castor set. To max the castor (largest negative number) the strut top should be moved as far rearward as possible using your CC plates. On the GC CC plate, the 4 allen head bolts, that slide fore/aft, should be as far to the rear of the CC plates as possible. The possible exception would be if you have the hybrid plates and they're different from my race plates. I don't think they are, but am not sure. As I said before, unless they're pretty close, you should match them up. If at max one side is -6.1 and the other side is -6.6, I'd even them up at -6.1. You'll probably need to have the car on an alignment rack to make these measurements. I suspect castor will have a small effect on the other alignment specs. Not sure. Either way, set your castor 1st. Jay > Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:39:25 -0500 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? > > Dear All, > > Sorry, I had another question.. Right now I have the caster maxxed out. > (The wheel is as forward as the plate will allow). If I reduce the caster, > won't this bring up the front of the car some? Also reducing the camber a > bit? > > thoughts? > Mo
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#6. Re: [E36M3] GC coil-over suspension Part II - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:57:30 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC coil-over suspension Part II Mo- Two full turns of the GC adjuster equals about .25". So, it sounds like your side to side is fine. If you modify your strut tower re-inforcement plates so that the CC plates can move thru their full range of adjustment, you should be able to go more positive. Otherwise, a taller spring may be necessary. Also, when taking measurements, the accepted way is to measure from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender arch. Jay > Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:16:11 -0500 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: GC coil-over suspension Part II > > Dear All, > > First, thanks very much to everyone to responded with their thoughts, and > suggestions. It seems that the passenger side settled a bit over the past > few days, so I raised the adjuster. Now the passenger side is closer to the > top of the threads. I can only see 3 thread rings above the adjuster. (On > the driver side, I cannot see any threads) From the ground to the fender > lip, here are the measurements now.. > > Driver - 24.5" > Pass - 24.25 > > On the read > > Driver - 24.75" > Pass - 25.5" > > So the passenger side is ~1/4" lower than the driver side. I checked all of > the part numbers, and they all match. I also measured both front struts, > and they are the same size.. I would guess that the heights are close > enough, but what bothers me is the issue of not being able to run "normal" > camber for the street.. Any thoughts on getting taller springs? I have 6" > 440lbs in the front, and 6.5" 545lbs springs in the rear.. > > Thanks! > Mo > 98 M3/4 >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? - from Patrick Buthmann
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:12:32 -0500 From: Patrick Buthmann <pbuthmann@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? Actually, I'll disagree with that bit of advice. Toe should be the alignment spec set first, followed by your choice of castor or camber. Generally, I'll pick camber second, (for a race only car; I really don't drive a street BMW anymore), and finally castor. Some castor difference from side to side is normal anyway, as modern roads are crowned, and the slight difference in castor from left to right can counter the tendency of the car to pull right as a result of the uneven road surface. One thing to keep in mind with relation to alignment settings however, and that is you'll never get your perfect set of all three variables. Adjusting one will have an impact on each of the others. Pat Jay W. Hudson wrote: >Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:49:53 -0800 >From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? > >Mo- > >I'm confused by your description of how you have your castor set. To max >the castor (largest negative number) the strut top should be moved as far >rearward as possible using your CC plates. On the GC CC plate, the 4 allen >head bolts, that slide fore/aft, should be as far to the rear of the CC >plates as possible. The possible exception would be if you have the hybrid >plates and they're different from my race plates. I don't think they are, >but am not sure. > >As I said before, unless they're pretty close, you should match them up. If >at max one side is -6.1 and the other side is -6.6, I'd even them up >at -6.1. You'll probably need to have the car on an alignment rack to make >these measurements. > >I suspect castor will have a small effect on the other alignment specs. Not >sure. Either way, set your castor 1st. > >Jay > > > >>Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:39:25 -0500 >>From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> >>Subject: GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? >> >>Dear All, >> >>Sorry, I had another question.. Right now I have the caster maxxed out. >>(The wheel is as forward as the plate will allow). If I reduce the >> >> >caster, > > >>won't this bring up the front of the car some? Also reducing the camber a >>bit? >> >>thoughts? >>Mo >> >> > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >
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#8. Re: Head Gasket Job - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:19:31 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Head Gasket Job on 3/14/05 1:37 AM, "Frank Walker" <frankirsten@msn.com> wrote: > I think it would be prudent to > replace the heater hoses while the head is off. It's certainly a good time to do that, since they're quite inaccessible otherwise and they're not expensive items. > I'm considering > purchasing silicone hoses for the main cooling system. You can, although as far as I've noticed only the two large radiator hoses are available in silicone, and these are easy to change at any time if required. > I'm also contemplating removing the engine driven cooling fan and going to an > electrical fan system. Any suggestions? SPAL makes a suitable fan. However many of us have simply removed the engine driven fan and left it at that. The stock auxiliary electric fan works fine. > Is there a lower temp thermostat > that is recommended for hot climates? There are lower temp thermostats, but they won't improve overall cooling, which is a function of system design capacity and condition, not thermostat setting. In my opinion the best cooling upgrade you can do is to buy an all aluminum radiator such as the one on this page: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=6134 &Category_Code=AR1 or use this link: http://tinyurl.com/4xghm This will improve system cooling capacity and won't fail like the stock part. Assuming a sub-infinite cooling system refurb budget I'd replace all the hoses with new stock, which should then last the life of the vehicle, take a pass on the electric fan, and use the money I saved to help fund the alloy radiator, a new stock thermostat (they're failure prone) and an aluminum t'stat housing to replace the stock plastic part. > I also want to have the head serviced, I believe it has hydraulic lifters, so > they should not need to be replaced/serviced. But, I would like to have the > valve retainers replaced with the stronger ones, but I can't remember the part > number. Depending on how hard your M3 has been driven the lifters, which can't be serviced, may be showing some wear, but not likely enough to make it worth replacing them. However along with the cams they would need to come out anyway to access the valve retainers. It has been suggested by others that if the lifters are worn enough to be replaced then so should the pair of ladder-like castings in which they move. Unless you want to go to lightweight titanium racing parts, all you need to do is order new stock retainers and valve collets from a dealer. The improved hardened versions long ago superseded the previous parts. > Should I also replace the knock sensors > since I've got the intake off the head? It's a reasonable option. The forward knock sensor isn't hard to replace, but the rear one requires taking off the whole intake for access. > I'm aiming at getting the top end back to very fresh state of being, so > I'm asking for advice and recommended service procedures. I don't know how fresh is "very fresh," but your next option would be a completely rebuilt exchange head - at considerable cost. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - New head gasket 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 06:31:51 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? Interesting. The owner of the shop who lets me use his rack says to do the front toe last. Jay > Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:12:32 -0500 > From: Patrick Buthmann <pbuthmann@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? > > Actually, I'll disagree with that bit of advice. > > Toe should be the alignment spec set first, followed by your choice of > castor or camber. Generally, I'll pick camber second, (for a race only > car; I really don't drive a street BMW anymore), and finally castor. > > Some castor difference from side to side is normal anyway, as modern > roads are crowned, and the slight difference in castor from left to > right can counter the tendency of the car to pull right as a result of > the uneven road surface. > > One thing to keep in mind with relation to alignment settings however, > and that is you'll never get your perfect set of all three variables. > Adjusting one will have an impact on each of the others. > > > Pat > > > Jay W. Hudson wrote: > > >Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 05:49:53 -0800 > >From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? > > > >Mo- > > > >I'm confused by your description of how you have your castor set. To max > >the castor (largest negative number) the strut top should be moved as far > >rearward as possible using your CC plates. On the GC CC plate, the 4 allen > >head bolts, that slide fore/aft, should be as far to the rear of the CC > >plates as possible. The possible exception would be if you have the hybrid > >plates and they're different from my race plates. I don't think they are, > >but am not sure. > > > >As I said before, unless they're pretty close, you should match them up. If > >at max one side is -6.1 and the other side is -6.6, I'd even them up > >at -6.1. You'll probably need to have the car on an alignment rack to make > >these measurements. > > > >I suspect castor will have a small effect on the other alignment specs. Not > >sure. Either way, set your castor 1st. > > > >Jay > > > > > > > >>Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 00:39:25 -0500 > >>From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > >>Subject: GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? > >> > >>Dear All, > >> > >>Sorry, I had another question.. Right now I have the caster maxxed out. > >>(The wheel is as forward as the plate will allow). If I reduce the > >> > >> > >caster, > > > > > >>won't this bring up the front of the car some? Also reducing the camber a > >>bit? > >> > >>thoughts? > >>Mo > >>
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#10. RE: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:35:50 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] GC - Coil-Over Suspension - Caster? Toe is the last thing you should set when aligning a car. Caster (positive, not negative) and camber should be the first since it affects toe. Once you have those set, then you adjust the toe. -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Patrick Buthmann > > Actually, I'll disagree with that bit of advice. > > Toe should be the alignment spec set first, followed by your > choice of > castor or camber. Generally, I'll pick camber second, (for a > race only > car; I really don't drive a street BMW anymore), and finally castor. > > Some castor difference from side to side is normal anyway, as modern > roads are crowned, and the slight difference in castor from left to > right can counter the tendency of the car to pull right as a > result of > the uneven road surface. > > One thing to keep in mind with relation to alignment settings > however, > and that is you'll never get your perfect set of all three > variables. > Adjusting one will have an impact on each of the others. > > > Pat >
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#11. Re: [E36M3] keyless entry FOB - from scott noltensmeier
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 06:35:55 -0800 (PST) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] keyless entry FOB Although not elegant... I epoxied a ring onto my broken FOB. Scott, E36M3 96' Coupe "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> wrote: Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 18:53:40 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" Subject: Re: [E36M3] keyless entry FOB Unfortunately, Alpine no longer does car security systems. AFAIK, they no longer support them either. So, you may be SOL. Jay > Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:38:22 -0600 > From: "Bruce" > Subject: keyless entry FOB > > I can't remember if I asked here or not. Both of the keyless entry FOBs for > my 95 M3 are broken (won't stay on my keychain). The part number doesn't > come up in the ETK. I checked Autozone that has ads they say they have > repleacement FOBs, but they don't have one for the car. I emailed Alpine to > see if I could just buy the cover but they never replied. > > Suggestions? > > Thanks, > Bruce > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************