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#1. Guibo R&R - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 11:00:31 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Guibo R&R Now that the weather is, well, at least less frigid here in Indiana I've finally got around to doing all those winter projects I'd been putting off. One was replacing the guibo - what the hell kind of a word is that anyway? - which at 87K ordinary/track miles was visibly cracking. This is a straightforward job. Or so I thought... First there's the sheer joy of lying on your back removing a 10 ft long exhaust system with the car on jack stands. Then of course as the heatshields and other miscellaneous underbody appurtenances come off you get showered with dirt, gravel and bits of congealed tire snot from the track. Somehow this always works its way into your hair... Then the real fun begins. For some reason the 3 guibo bolts connecting to the transmission output shaft flange came right off with the impact gun, but the other 3 wouldn't budge, and this is with a 600+ lb-ft gun. Of course you really want to work on the nuts rather than the bolts heads, but there's no room for that, in fact you can't even get a socket on it. Fortunately, with the trans flange disconnected, it was possible to push the driveshaft assembly back just far enough to get a box end wrench on the nuts. But not before having to jack up the gearbox and remove its crossmember for access. A bunch of hammering with a hand sledge on the (now formerly polished) 19mm wrench got the nuts moving, albeit very reluctantly. So now it all comes off, right? Bzzzzt, wrong! The transmission flange includes a small diameter shaft that serves to centre it in the driveshaft independently of the guibo, but it's about 1/4" too long for the driveshaft to pull free. I really didn't want to disconnect the driveshaft rear coupling, which probably would have generated some whole new tale of woe, so I reluctantly ended up using a prybar to force enough clearance. What a PITA! Reassembly was the reverse, etc., including the prybar part but excluding the sledge hammer. Since I put anti-seize on the guibo bolts to facilitate any future removal I'll probably never have to do that job again. It's also good to own many jacks for lifting that long and heavy exhaust into place. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#2. RE: [E36M3] - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 08:30:13 -0800 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thanks for the info, Jay! I've had several people recommend the M2. Looks like a winner. Of course since my head looks like the creature from Alien, I'll have to try one on -----Original Message----- From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 6:32 AM To: Dave DeBuhr; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Good for you. You'll love T-hill. I got my Bell M2 from www.helemtcity.com. Good selection and prices. They have a retail store in Oakland. I'll bet it's the same one Mark recommended, but not sure. I also tried on Simpson models, but I didn't like the feel of them. I guess I've got a Bell head. I've owned 3 of their helmets over the years. If you wear glasses or may wear sunglasses, be sure to consider a helmet with a large eyeport like the Bell M2 or Simpson Voyager or ????. Last fall, running T-hill in the late afternoon, I was getting blinded coming up to T9. It was the 1st time I'd run T-hill when the sun was that low in the sky. I had to hold my hand up to block the sun. I'd rather have my hands on the wheel or shift knob! Anyway, good luck and have a ball. I'll be there with TrackMasters on 5/13. Jay Hudson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 8:30 PM Subject: [E36M3] > Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 20:22:30 -0800 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: [E36M3] > > Woohoo! I'm doing my first track day at T Hill on 5/11. > I need to buy a helmet. I want a full face model. Can you guys > give me some recommendations? Any places around the East Bay > that has a good selection that I can try on. What should > I look for and how do I know a correct fit. > > A local race shop carries a G Force model for $249. It felt OK. > I'm willing to spend some bux on safety gear. > > > Thanks. > > Dave > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] - from Scott M
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 10:54:11 -0800 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] I wear glasses or sunglasses (both Rx) inside my M2 w/o any issues. Scott on 3/19/05 8:30 AM, Dave DeBuhr at debuhr@comcast.net wrote: > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 08:30:13 -0800 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] > > Thanks for the info, Jay! I've had several people > recommend the M2. Looks like a winner. Of course > since my head looks like the creature from Alien, I'll have to try one on > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] > Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 6:32 AM > To: Dave DeBuhr; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] > > > Good for you. You'll love T-hill. > > I got my Bell M2 from www.helemtcity.com. Good selection and prices. They > have a retail store in Oakland. I'll bet it's the same one Mark > recommended, but not sure. I also tried on Simpson models, but I didn't > like the feel of them. I guess I've got a Bell head. I've owned 3 of their > helmets over the years. > > If you wear glasses or may wear sunglasses, be sure to consider a helmet > with a large eyeport like the Bell M2 or Simpson Voyager or ????. Last > fall, running T-hill in the late afternoon, I was getting blinded coming up > to T9. It was the 1st time I'd run T-hill when the sun was that low in the > sky. I had to hold my hand up to block the sun. I'd rather have my hands > on the wheel or shift knob! > > Anyway, good luck and have a ball. I'll be there with TrackMasters on 5/13. > > Jay Hudson > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 8:30 PM > Subject: [E36M3] > > >> Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 20:22:30 -0800 >> From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> >> Subject: [E36M3] >> >> Woohoo! I'm doing my first track day at T Hill on 5/11. >> I need to buy a helmet. I want a full face model. Can you guys >> give me some recommendations? Any places around the East Bay >> that has a good selection that I can try on. What should >> I look for and how do I know a correct fit. >> >> A local race shop carries a G Force model for $249. It felt OK. >> I'm willing to spend some bux on safety gear. >> >> >> Thanks. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#4. M2 helmet (was: Re: ) - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 11:09:36 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: M2 helmet (was: Re: ) On Mar 19, 2005, at 11:00 AM, Scott M wrote: > I wear glasses or sunglasses (both Rx) inside my M2 w/o any issues. > I filed a review of the M2 Pro here in case anyone wants to add comments: http://www.justracing.com/reviews/reviews.php There some other good stuff in the growing database as well. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#5. Throttle "Sticking" - from dhogg
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 14:26:14 -0500 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Throttle "Sticking" Gruppe, My '98 M3/4 with Shark intake and eprom and 86K miles on it has started acting up. Periodically, especially when the motor isn't completely warm, when I lift, the throttle stays partially open. Today when I was at about 4/5ths throttle prior to a shift, the revs actually went UP to 4K+ when the clutch went in. That's the first I'd noticed the engine actually revving faster with my foot off the gas. When completely warm, the problem improves but it still returns sometimes after warmup. It's getting to be a pain, as I often now have to use the brake to decelerate after lifting, because the throttle doesn't fully close. After a count of one . two . and sometimes three, it will usually (but not always) close as it should. Any thoughts? Dave Hogg
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Throttle "Sticking" - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 14:52:08 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Throttle "Sticking" Dave, According to the Bentley Manual, under "erratic engine idle", since it occurs when you lift off throttle, could be cause by; idle speed control valve faulty throttle position sensor faulty or idle signal to DME control module missing mass air flow sensor faulty fuel pressure problem oxygen sensor faulty throttle plate binding input signal to ECM missing ECM faulty just to mention a few. Maybe try resharking the DME. If there is a fault there, you should pick it up. Sorry, not much help. good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004
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#7. Dave DeBuhr and Thunderhill and helmets - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 18:51:29 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Dave DeBuhr and Thunderhill and helmets Dave; I would recommend buying a balaclava (head sock) instead and borrow someone's helmet until you think you are going to enjoy this and spend money on it. Also, I would wait about 6-8 months and buy an SA2005 rated helmet. If you do that you will get another 5 years out of the helmet you buy since clubs usually mandage certain ratings to drive with them. Currently they generally allow SA95 and SA00 helmets. Late this year or early next year when the SA05 helmets are out, they will only allow SA00 and SA05 helmets and those with SA95 helmets will need to buy new ones. I would recommend buying a balaclava anyway also because you can just toss it into the washer to clean and it keeps much of the sweat and oils and dirt away from the inside liner of your helmet. Have fun and don't go beyond what you are comfortable with. I recommend the E36 for your track day. Don't use your hand brake when you park your car, check under your hood after every run, get familiar with where all your oil and fluid spots are so you can spot new ones, check the torque on your lug bolts because they can loosen up, and target your tire pressure to hot pressures. Cold pressure is nice to know but the hot target is what you will be aiming for, not your first in the morning cold pressure when it is 50F outside. Watch your gauges and use the cool down lap to cool everything down while trying not to use the brakes during that time. Thunderhill is a great track. Enjoy! Here's my helmet spiel that I've occasionally put on message boards and forums. Forgive either the basic, rudimentary, or preachiness tone of this stuff and go for the basic message. Helmet suggestions: I have a Simpson voyager and like it. Full face, has shield that can make it closed. I wear a balaclava ("head sock with eyes and mouth") for sweat and dirt protection of the helmet. Fits with my glasses, fits my head, but it is heavy. Snell memorial foundation provides rating systems for helmets: http://www.smf.org The Snell Memorial Foundation is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to research, education, testing and development of helmet safety standards. Since its founding in 1957, Snell has been a leader in helmet safety in the United States and around the world. 2005 certification release date - October 1, 2005 The M2005 and SA/K2005 standards will be officially released on this date barring any unforseen complications. M2005, SA2005 and K2005 decals will be offered to certified manufacturers after June 30, 2005 but units bearing the new decals may not be distributed until the release date (October 1, 2005). Some things to think about: 1. You must try it on in the car, especially if you are tall person and/or have a sunroof. You must try it on before you buy the best deal you can get on ebay, online etc. Comfort is key! 2. The weight can differ. There are some very light but very expensive helmets out there. Try to spend for the lighter models. 3. Buy a Snell SA rated helmet as that is made for the inside of a car (vs. M rating which is for a motorcycle). Go to the Snell website to see the differences. 4. Make sure you have plenty of peripheral vision (they eye hole size can vary significantly between them). 5. If you buy a Snell SA00 that should be good until the Snell SA10 rated helmets come out (usually clubs like you to have one of the 2 most recent generations of rated helmet, they come out with new rating every 5 years, i..e Snell95 is still usable, Snell00 definitely, Snell05 comes out earliest in October). If you can wait and just borrow or rent for the rest of this year, see if you can get a Snell SA05 rated helmet and spend well on it. That will last you at least until the SnellSA15 helmets are out. Plus, also borrowing or renting lets you see if this track thing is not just a passing fad and that it will last. 6. Buy a balaclava (a "head sock") and wear it because the balaclava will get dirty and sweaty and you can wash it. The helmet internal padding is much harder to wash. 7. Get a full face (i.e. has piece protecting chin) instead of what seems to be popular is head only and chin and face are exposed. 8. You'll be wearing this for 20-45 minutes at a time and in a relatively high G environment. The more comfortable the better, and, the lighter the better. 9. Think of momentum. If you have a 5 pound helmet that is an extra 5 pounds that will move around on top of your neck in case of an accident. Many people say "it's your head, how much is it worth to you". 10. Also get a neck brace. 11. See how easy it is to put the speaker of a communication device into your helmet because you will have to do that to hear the instructor in the car, you'll be slipping a flat "headphone" speaker piece in between your helmet padding and your ear to hear them. 12. Make sure that it fits with your glasses or sunglasses when you wear them. If you leave the face area not covered I highly recommend some sort of protective eyewear. I have been with 2 instructors when rocks or pebbles came in the window and hit them on their glasses or their eye. Your windows are open when you are on the track ( a requirement) and so you need the protection. Oh, and don't buy a used helmet. You don't know what has happened to it. Regards, Marc 95M3 Simpson SA95 (I'm going to need a new one after October and I'll be spending the money on a much lighter one)
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#8. Sagging glovebox door fix.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 20:18:49 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Sagging glovebox door fix.. Whilst I was hacking away at my finger today.. I decided to try a fix I'd read on a website: http://www.understeer.com/glovebox.shtml Click on the photos for a closeup view. You could do this without even removing the glovebox from the dash. Make the holes about 2" from the latch on each side. Did it. Had to remove the latch that I'd bent inwards to try tightening it up and put the new one I had around in... There is NO gap at ALL now. Highly recommended it. It looks SO much better. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#9. FS: Blizzaks on 16" Borbet wheels for E36 - from Scott Spangenberg
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 18:45:32 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Blizzaks on 16" Borbet wheels for E36 I have a set of four Bridgestone Blizzak MZ-01 tires (205/55R16) on Borbet 16" 5-spoke wheels for sale. I bought them as part of the deal when I bought my '95 M3 recently. Pics are here: http://www.sccaprepared.com/images/Blizzaks/ I have all the lugs and hardware as well. I really have no idea what they are worth. I am thinking somewhere in the $600 range, but make me offers. I won't ever use them, so the high bidder gets 'em! I am willing to separate the wheels and tires too if somebody has interest in either. I believe the wheels will fit any E36 car, but that's just a guess on my part. Not sure what else they may fit. Email me off list if interested. I am in Erie, PA. -Scott Spangenberg __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#10. Alarm connector.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 00:08:06 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Alarm connector.. Can anyone point me to a photo of where to look for it? I was replacing my cabin-filter today (what a PITA, and PITF - [pain in the finger from where the sharp edge on the knee thing cut it deeply..]) and figured I would find the alarm connector while I was there so I could plan on an alarm install. Well.. the only connector I found was part of the big lump of control boxes, on the left side of it, sort of below some relays. It is a 12 pin male connector - with one pin missing. It did not want to unfasten from where it was attached to the big lump. In writeups of alarm installs, I've read about finding it and pulling it outwards. Nothing I could find looked like the descriptions I've read. Is the 12 pin (actually 11 pins in a 12 pin housing) one I found the correct one for the alarm? TIA (Don - with a FU finger all dude'd up with a tubular bandage and a white finger cot - think of a condom - over it. If I have to give someone the finger they'll be really impressed :-) _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S