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#1. Vader seat covers - from Low, Roan
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 11:44:57 -0600 From: "Low, Roan" <Roan.Low@Kellogg.com> Subject: Vader seat covers Does anyone have a set a custom Vader seat covers for sale? Thanks, Roan.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] yasq yet another suspension question - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 12:58:16 -0500 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] yasq yet another suspension question Hi Jason, You will get many opinions on this one. For daily driving and autox use my setup is: Koni SA front, DA rear, Rogue rear shock mounts, Eibach sway bars, TC Kline front camber plates, x-brace, with stock springs. Well that's the major stuff. cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champ '01 and '02
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#3. Help, I have a severe case of CRS syndrome! - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 11:01:20 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: Help, I have a severe case of CRS syndrome! CRS? I hear you ask, Can't Remember Sh**! I was sure I had bookmarked the most excellent instructions on how to replace the power steering line/trombone with high pressure hose. Do you think I can find it? Nope :( I have a worsening power steering fluid leak and need to get it fixed ASAP. Would someone please point me to the URL for these instructions. TIA, Graeme
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#4. Re: E46 or E36 - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 13:51:44 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: E46 or E36 on 3/23/05 9:40 AM, "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> wrote: > You are correct but Ron was talking about the Performance Package (330iPP) > that was released on the e46 330i to appease the ones that wanted an e46 M3 > 4dr. The E46 chassis really is quite a bit more sophisticated than the E36, despite (because of?) it's higher weight. The only thing the 330i PP lacks for track or autoX use is a limited slip. With DSC I doubt this matters much for the street. Of course one could retrofit a Quaife or other limited slip - hey, all it takes is money! Say, am I the only one posting today? Welcome to Neil's Opinionated Digest... Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Wind noise troubleshooting - from Robert Manger
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:01:01 -0500 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Wind noise troubleshooting I had mine replaced this past Nov before putting the car away for storage. I found a guy that would take state farms insurance. To chester's point about the below support until it cures, the guy used chunks of cork to keep it from sliding down. He mentioned to me that the majority of the a$$clowns that he has seen don't do quality work anymore. Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 08:59:53 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Wind noise troubleshooting That's why when my winshield cracked last year from a big ass rock, I replaced it myself. Of course, the first windshield wasn't installed correctly...hahahaha. Live and learn. The first time failure was from not having punctured the tube of rubber butyl good enough. So trying to squeeze it out with the hand chaulker proved to be very tiring. Next time up, I ordered a Milwaukee chaulker gun (argh argh argh!). Unfortunately, we werent' able to remove the windshield without cracking it :( So...new windshield. Ugh. So...second attempt...I didn't realize the trigger was variable so that stuff just shot out and I ended up with a huge bead that didn't go 1/3 of the way around the windshield. HAHAHAHA! It was also the special BMW stuff that was supposed to be heated so that in theory, curing times would be faster. I didn't even attempt to install it. We just used a scraper, wiped it off, cleaned the area and went to the BMW dealer and bought two tubes of the regular sealant. This time around, I went slow and the bead came out nice and uniform. The seal that you install around the windshield has rubber butyl adhesive inside already. If you press it to the windshield, it should stick. There is also a center notch (on the trim and the windshield) to help align things. Last but not least, the windshield needs to be dropped in place and pushed up so that the seal on the top covers the body work. The weight of the glass will make it want to sag downwards so you need to tape it up though I think if I were to do it again, I would try to support it at the bottom of the windshield as well. Basically, my point is to find a competent installer. If this shadetree mechanic can do it, I'm sure a lot of people can :) Also, you're not supposed to move the car at all for many hours. Chester ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: E46 or E36 - from Hans Batra
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:44:59 -0500 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: E46 or E36 I've ridden and driven my brother-in-law's 330i and I definitely agree. No comparision - the E46 soaks up bumps with aplomb. And IIRC, he does have the same wheels I have on my 97 M3 (245/4017 rear, 225/4517 front). But his engine sounds so muted...I love the CAI growl that mine has. It's all about the speed, the curves and the sound. Hey, am I still talking about cars? Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 2:00 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re: E46 or E36 > Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 13:51:44 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: E46 or E36 > > on 3/23/05 9:40 AM, "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> wrote: > > > You are correct but Ron was talking about the Performance Package (330iPP) > > that was released on the e46 330i to appease the ones that wanted an e46 M3 > > 4dr. > > The E46 chassis really is quite a bit more sophisticated than the E36, > despite (because of?) it's higher weight. The only thing the 330i PP lacks > for track or autoX use is a limited slip. With DSC I doubt this matters much > for the street. Of course one could retrofit a Quaife or other limited slip > - hey, all it takes is money! > > Say, am I the only one posting today? > > Welcome to Neil's Opinionated Digest... > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: yasq yet another suspension question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 14:45:10 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: yasq yet another suspension question on 3/23/05 12:34 PM, Chester Wong at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com wrote: > Currently, I'm running 244#/inch springs in the front and 343#/inch springs in > the back. O wait...that's this car > <http://www.pbase.com/ekosan/image/40134699/large.jpg> Yeah yeah, you just had to rub it in some more didn't you! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#8. RE: factory RTAB R&R...was Poly RTAB R&R - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 12:06:08 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: factory RTAB R&R...was Poly RTAB R&R I have purchased Technictools.com tool "BMW137-806 Rear Axle Trailing Arm Set" for E36 list $268 and accomplished 3 exchanges myself while the tool has accomplished seven. I purchased the tool from automotivetools.com, current list $205 This tool can be seen in images from ROGUE site www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/tech_tips/rtab/5.jp g My procedure is similar to Neil's - Set handbrake (so as to mark on rotor angular position of 'cassette' with straight edge/Sharpe marker), calk front tires, Jack car and secure on JSs, remove rear wheels - Unbolt brake line union bracket from trailing arm (2 x 10mm head bolts). - Spray paint (good tip!) or otherwise mark RTAB carrier to body area to preserve alignment. - Unbolt RTAB carrier from body (3 x 18mm head bolts). - Remove RTAB pivot bolt (pinch bolt), pull off RTAB carrier. - Support trailing arm with a couple wood blocks (10X4s), apply tool and pull out bushing. - Assembly is reverse, jack trailing arm/cassette into body, torque to spec. 81 ft-lbs for pinch bolt, 57 ft-lbs for (3) 'cassette' attach-to-body fasteners (and 57 ft-lbs for Shock attach bolt) KLBurgess Neil Maller WROTE: <SNIP> Victory Product Design tool: http://victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm, current list $84 <SNIP> The basic procedure is: - Jack car, remove rear wheels, release handbrake. - Remove lower shock bolts, pop out rear springs. - Unbolt brake line union from trailing arm (2 x 10mm head bolts). - Spray paint or otherwise mark RTAB carrier to body area to preserve alignment. - Unbolt RTAB carrier from body (3 x 18mm head bolts). - Remove RTAB pivot bolt, pull off RTAB carrier. - Support trailing arm with a jack, apply VPD tool and pull out bushing. - Assembly is the reverse, torque to spec. <SNIP> Neil, Fort Wayne, IN
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#9. Head Unit Removal? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 16:13:24 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Head Unit Removal? I've searched through the archives and it's looking like there may be a specific tool used specifically for removing the factory head unit. However, it also sounds like you might be able to just use a hex key, but there were no mentions of size. Anyone know of the quick and easy way to get it out? Jonathan L.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Unit Removal? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 16:23:29 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Unit Removal? On Wed, March 23, 2005 4:20 pm, twisty M3 said: > Anyone know of the quick and easy way to get it out? Plasma cutter? Jim Bassett - no help whatsoever :-)