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#1. Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch - from docwyte@comcast.net
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:30:33 +0000 From: docwyte@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch Bleeding the clutch slave is a PITA. My old one wouldn't start to bleed until I had the bleeder screw almost all the way out, then it was practically impossible to screw it back in as my hands and the bleeder were coated in brake fluid... -------------- Original message -------------- > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:50:54 -0700 > From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" > Subject: Bleeding the clutch > > I'm doing a complete brake job including a full fluid flush this weekend - > amongs other things. As I understand, the clutch and brakes share fluid. > My p-car has a similar system and has a separate bleed valve for the clutch. > Does the M3 have one? Where might I find it? > TIA, > Graeme > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Add me to the E36 M3 List - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:39:10 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Add me to the E36 M3 List On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:40:38 -0600, Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > That's OK. The "head's up" on the newbies was appreciated. > > :-) Are you hinting at a little newbie hazing? :) I'm glad Sue didn't mess up when I was joining the list! :) Drive Safely, Raza
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:06:50 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch The solution for brake bleeding is "Speed Bleeders". Unscrew part of the way and it becomes a one way check valve. Air goes out but is not allowed back into the brake system, Kent docwyte@comcast.net wrote: >Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:30:33 +0000 >From: docwyte@comcast.net >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch > >Bleeding the clutch slave is a PITA. My old one wouldn't start to bleed until I had the bleeder screw almost all the way out, then it was practically impossible to screw it back in as my hands and the bleeder were coated in brake fluid... > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#4. Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:37:46 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? On Thu, March 24, 2005 1:50 pm, Theodore Serbinski said: > Ok I thought they all were H1s. However, all of the Osrams I see only > come in one type (wattage I'm assuming is 55w?) ... no where to buy > higher wattage ones, say for hi-beams. What do you guys throw in there > for hi-beams? Seems like regular Osrams Silverstars will be great for > low-beams and fog-lights, just need a hi-beam bulb. Thanks! Not sure I understand the problem; high and low ellipsoid bulds are the same size: H1. Common wattages are 55W and 100W, although it may be that a manufacturer only makes one wattage (or a supplier only carries one wattage). I thought I mentioned previously, I've bought 100W H1s from BMP Designs (and Bavarian Autosport also, I think) in the past. Dunno if they're listed in their on-line catalog, but they are in there paper catalog. And FWIW, I currently have 100W in the highs, have used 100W in the lows previously but currently have 55W in the lows. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#5. Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Greg Cagle
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:46:35 -0800 From: Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? As far as I can tell, Osram doesn't make anything but a 55W Silverstar, either Euro or USA. - Greg Theodore Serbinski wrote: > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:44:13 -0500 > From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? > > Ok I thought they all were H1s. However, all of the Osrams I see only > come in one type (wattage I'm assuming is 55w?) ... no where to buy > higher wattage ones, say for hi-beams. What do you guys throw in there > for hi-beams? Seems like regular Osrams Silverstars will be great for > low-beams and fog-lights, just need a hi-beam bulb. Thanks! > > ted > > > On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 13:33:02 -0800, Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> wrote: > >>Ted - the high beams are H1s as well. I just got the Osrams >>from powerbulbs.com, and they are very nice indeed. You can >>put higher wattage H1s in any position if you upgrade >>the fuses; the wiring can take it. I had 100W H1s in my >>high beams for a long time. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > > -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:03:16 -0800 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? Stock bushings with the Ground Control stabilizing shims are an excellent choice for a dual purpose car. The Ground Control RSMs are a great choice too. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Spangenberg [mailto:cpmustang2001@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 2:11 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:08:33 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? Since I plan to autocross and open track my new-to-me '95 M3, I figure I better replace/upgrade the RTA bushings and upper shock mounts too. I want to start with a known quantity before I try to tune the car. I am not concerned with class rules (will probably autox in Street Mod anyway), so what's the best RTA bushing for a car that sees summer daily street duty, plus autox and track time? Is it best to just use stock bushings and replace frequently, or are there poly (or other) options that better suit my usage? I understand that a harder bushing will translate to a harsher ride somewhat, but that's not a huge concern either. -Scott Spangenberg __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:05:29 -0800 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch Another vote for Speed Bleeders. Those things are great. Make sure you buy some extra thread sealant. You'll want to reapply to the threads every few bleedings. -----Original Message----- From: Kent L. Shephard [mailto:kents@kls-consulting.com] Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 3:11 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:06:50 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch The solution for brake bleeding is "Speed Bleeders". Unscrew part of the way and it becomes a one way check valve. Air goes out but is not allowed back into the brake system, Kent docwyte@comcast.net wrote: >Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:30:33 +0000 >From: docwyte@comcast.net >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bleeding the clutch > >Bleeding the clutch slave is a PITA. My old one wouldn't start to bleed until I had the bleeder screw almost all the way out, then it was practically impossible to screw it back in as my hands and the bleeder were coated in brake fluid... > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Theodore Serbinski
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 19:40:40 -0500 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] size of bulbs in ellipsoids? Doh! (must be another "virtual Friday" thing, haha) Ok under control now, after some digging and help from you guys. Looks like the H1 Osrams come in only 55W... perfect enough for both low-beam and fog lights. For high beams I'll just pickup a pair of 100W from either BMP or BavAuto or other. Whew I think I need a drink for stating the almost-obvious-but-not-me. Cheers all! ted
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#9. Re: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 20:35:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Recommendations? on 3/24/05 5:40 PM, Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> wrote: > Since I plan to autocross and open track my new-to-me > '95 M3, I figure I better replace/upgrade the RTA > bushings and upper shock mounts too. I want to start > with a known quantity before I try to tune the car. I > am not concerned with class rules (will probably autox > in Street Mod anyway), so what's the best RTA bushing > for a car that sees summer daily street duty, plus > autox and track time? Is it best to just use stock > bushings and replace frequently, or are there poly (or > other) options that better suit my usage? I > understand that a harder bushing will translate to a > harsher ride somewhat, but that's not a huge concern > either. > > -Scott Spangenberg See my post about poly RTAB's in Digest #4193 yesterday. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#10. RE: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 22:48:29 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? ted posted: >Guys, just want to double check the size of bulbs before I buy new ones. > >I have the Bosch ellipsoids + DDEs and unfortanuetly, one of my bulbs >already burnt out and want to get matching fogs at the same time. > >H1s for both low beams and fog lights, correct? AFAIK.. >What about high beams? What size are those? Are those higher wattage >H1s or H7s? Can't seem to find the specs on that one. Also H1. >And for the curious, I plan on getting the Osram Silverstar H1s from >here: >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36476&item=7963852383&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Those are a good bulb. Unfortunately - the US Sylvania Silverstar 9005 are anything BUT a good bulb. I did my testing on them last night, compared to a standard Sylvania 9005. The Silverstar puts out less light than the standard bulb - not the 20% more that they make claim to. Sylvania is doing the US no favor with that bulb. The Sylvania XtraVision does put out marginally more light than the standard halogen, about 16%, so if you're buying US bulbs - stick with the non-bling-blue XtraVision. If you wanted to contribute to part 2 of the E36 lighting article and loan me these bulbs for a few days.. You'd get a nice thank you in Roundel :-) And I'd fed-ex them right back to you.. Also a good bulb - Philips VisionPlus - only available from Yurop.. I'm running them in my 2 wheeled BMW. They are an H4 bulb, but I believe they're also available in other form factors like H1. ................ BTW - one more way to really increase light from your E36 - headlight relays. You'd be surprised how a 10% drop in voltage getting to the headlight (not at all uncommon on a BMW) can result in ~40% less light (for real!) and it only gets worse at the cars get older. Oh - saw you were asking about higher wattage bulbs - IMHO not a good idea. You'll overtax the barely adequate wiring that BMW has for the headlight circuits and most likely end up with lower voltage getting to the bulb which means less light and a shorter lifetime for the bulb ('cause it cuts back on the evaporation of filament deposits from the inside of the quartz envelope.. which makes the filament burn out faster, and the deposits block what light is produced. I have done some experiments with halogens.. undervoltage = darkening of the inside of the envelope. Correct voltage actually corrects this after a fairly short period of time.) If you're going higher wattage - IMHO - relays are a MUST, and then you have to be concerned about the housings overheating. >Thanks! >ted Comment/question to Garry, who wrote: >On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 13:33:02 -0800, Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> wrote: > > Ted - the high beams are H1s as well. I just got the Osrams > > from powerbulbs.com, and they are very nice indeed. You can > > put higher wattage H1s in any position if you upgrade > > the fuses; the wiring can take it. I had 100W H1s in my > > high beams for a long time. Gary - have you measured the voltage at the back of the 100W bulbs? Or the voltage drop (a good way is to use a voltmeter between the + filament connection on the bulb to the battery jump start point in the engine compartment. I'd be VERY curious what you measure. Also - my comment - In the testing I've done - a limited amount so far on overwattage bulbs - the claimed 100W bulb I tested actually was a 68W bulb, and the blue coating over it made it put out considerably less light than a standard halogen bulb. If the misrepresented wattage is true with your 100W H1 - it might explain why your wiring hasn't been overloaded yet. I have seen BMW wiring melt down on the 2-wheeled ones with as little as an 80W bulb being used (usually the headlight switch and the headlight socket are first to go. There have also been cases where the extra heat from the higher wattage bulb ended up causing them to explode in the housings.. One chap had three in a row explode on him - he finally gave up.) I think the euro Silverstar or Philips VisionPlus are probably a better idea in the long run than overwattage bulbs. Stock wattage so you don't hurt the wiring, and more light. Only downside is a shorter life and higher cost. Best,