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#1. The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:43:33 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) Forget all this nonsense about bulb size, voltage drops, etc....BUT CAN WE FIT IN A HIR BULB?!?! *ducking* Chester Happily with HIDs retrofitted seeing no point in any discussion with halogen bulbs with a $300 HID option from vendors
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#2. [E36M3] FS: 2 225/40/18 Yoko AVS ES 100's - from Ty Vilhauer
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 12:47:41 -0700 From: "Ty Vilhauer" <quest@pacifier.com> Subject: [E36M3] FS: 2 225/40/18 Yoko AVS ES 100's Just pulling these off my car tomorrow as I got sponsored by Toyo so I got all new tires, and I figured I'd offer these up here. Not sure how many miles they have as they were on my Fikse's when I got them but I'd say there's probably 30-40% tread left. I think $120 is fair but I'll take offers as they'll get thrown away otherwise, just make me a decent offer and I'll probably take it. They're located in Tempe, AZ
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:50:33 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? On Fri, March 25, 2005 11:40 am, Don Eilenberger said: > The goal that I have in mind is to move the relays close to the > headlights so a minimal length of wire separates them and the > bulbs, and feed them with a circuit that is more than adequate > for the load involved. On the motorcycles, we went from a > not atypical 1.2-1.5V drop to less than 0.25V drop. This equates > to a lot more light. OK, I see where you're coming from. Let me ask another question: between what 2 points are you measuring the voltage drop? I ask because, with the relays in the circuit, you have 2 sections of wiring that provide the power to the lights: battery/alternator->relay and relay->bulbs. I would expect that you need to consider the WHOLE path when determining voltage drop (and then in planning on what to do to improve it). Again, just trying to think it through for myself. What popped out at me was that if you're moving the relays closer to the bulbs as you said, you're consequently moving them further away from the power source. Net result would seem to be zero, unless I'm missing something (which, as I mentioned, is quite possible today :-)). > One other thing lots of people miss when adding relays - the > ground (return) wire is just as important as the feed wiring. Correct, proper attention to BOTH power feed and ground wiring is a good thing. Jim Bassett - doing more engineering work on this list than at work, at the moment :-)
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#4. Re: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 12:01:08 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) I agree. I have a supplier here in CA that I can get HID kits for ~$240.00. It's a good quality kit and they stand behind their warranty. Machined and anodized boxes. Also sealed to be water proof. Why by expensive halogen whey you can buy a good HID kit? (Flame suit on.) Kent Chester Wong wrote: >Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:43:33 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) > >Forget all this nonsense about bulb size, voltage drops, etc....BUT CAN WE FIT >IN A HIR BULB?!?! *ducking* > >Chester >Happily with HIDs retrofitted seeing no point in any discussion with halogen >bulbs with a $300 HID option from vendors > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#5. RE: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 15:03:52 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) I agree somewhat. The stock lights suck which is why I upgraded to euros but this has been going on for days for just light bulbs. If you have the extra $$$, there's a lot of places that sell HID kits for ~$300. Or you could mount IPF/PIAA/Lightforce/Hellas on your roof and really blind people. :-) -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Chester Wong > > Forget all this nonsense about bulb size, voltage drops, > etc....BUT CAN WE FIT > IN A HIR BULB?!?! *ducking* > > Chester > Happily with HIDs retrofitted seeing no point in any > discussion with halogen > bulbs with a $300 HID option from vendors >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 15:12:33 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids? At 02:50 PM 3/25/2005, you wrote: >On Fri, March 25, 2005 11:40 am, Don Eilenberger said: > > The goal that I have in mind is to move the relays close to the > > headlights so a minimal length of wire separates them and the > > bulbs, and feed them with a circuit that is more than adequate > > for the load involved. On the motorcycles, we went from a > > not atypical 1.2-1.5V drop to less than 0.25V drop. This equates > > to a lot more light. > >OK, I see where you're coming from. > >Let me ask another question: between what 2 points are you measuring the >voltage drop? My suggested points are: the back of the headlight bulb positive connection and the battery jump terminal on the passenger side of the engine (this is connected with quite a stout wire to the main feeds.) And for the ground part of the circuit - go from the ground side of the bulb to a good engine ground (the lifting hook comes to mind..) >I ask because, with the relays in the circuit, you have 2 sections of >wiring that provide the power to the lights: battery/alternator->relay and >relay->bulbs. I would expect that you need to consider the WHOLE path when >determining voltage drop (and then in planning on what to do to improve >it). Correct. I'd like to measure from the alternator to the battery jump post, but the alternator connection is a bit difficult to get to on the E36, just to see if there is any drop to the jump post. Since the jump post has to carry 100A or so on starting - I would expect a good sized wire going to the starter positive terminal. Typically - the alternator is also directly connected to the starter positive terminal (at least on other BMW's where I had the starter off). They use that terminal as a main junction. Have to see how it is run on the E36 (nothing BMW does with electronics surprises me now..) >Again, just trying to think it through for myself. What popped out at me >was that if you're moving the relays closer to the bulbs as you said, >you're consequently moving them further away from the power source. Net >result would seem to be zero, unless I'm missing something (which, as I >mentioned, is quite possible today :-)). Not if you use a LARGE feed to the relay from a good source of power. 12 Gauge is more than adequate for this current load (figure ~25A when high-beams are on) - so if you find a good spot to get the power from, you end up with more power getting to the headlights, and less being dissipated as heat in the wiring harness. > > One other thing lots of people miss when adding relays - the > > ground (return) wire is just as important as the feed wiring. > >Correct, proper attention to BOTH power feed and ground wiring is a good >thing. > >Jim Bassett - doing more engineering work on this list than at work, at >the moment :-) :-) Best, Don
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#7. RE: Guibo R&R - from Townsend, William
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 15:47:18 -0500 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: Guibo R&R Hey, just did the same job on mine, nice cracks in the old one prompted this. So having done this before I did not have as rough a time. (not discussing the words used on the first one) I used a jack under the muffler when disconnecting the muffler hangers and the x-brace kept the front up when unbolted from the manifold. Gradually lower that very heavy beast while pulling it rearward. The heat shield; unbolt a side away from you and lower it first so the rocks and sand fall away from your head. You do need to take the crossmember down to get on the guibo nuts and support the trans with a jack. Getting the sucker out you just mark and unbolt the center bearing and lower the shaft there pushing it sideward and the centering shaft pulls out of the transmission flange. Lowering the trans tail a little helps too. If you used an extension on the air gun a lot of the impact is lost there. They are torqued to 85lb/ft. I had the exhaust already off since I was doing the head gasket any way. Thanks Neil for the pointer on that one. Your mechanic was right, take the head out with the exhaust manifold on and bungee the intake to the side. Very nice way to do the job. Taking the intake off would have sucked since my car came with the fuel line connectors that require a special tool to get off. (nice going BMW) I will write up how I did the job and post. Started right up, no more vanos marbles and hope no more coolant in the oil. --Bill 96 M3 red
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#8. RE: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) - from Reed Nicholson
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 13:07:34 -0800 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: RE: The biggest question (was: Re: [E36M3] Re: size of bulbs in ellipsoids?) Yeah, and where's Jim Powell when we need him? Reed > > Forget all this nonsense about bulb size, voltage drops, > etc....BUT CAN WE FIT IN A HIR BULB?!?! *ducking* > > Chester
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#9. Re: Guibo R&R - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 16:23:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Guibo R&R on 3/25/05 3:47 PM, Townsend, William at wtownsen@enterasys.com wrote: > Hey, just did the same job on mine, nice cracks in the old one prompted > this. So having done this before I did not have as rough a time. (not > discussing the words used on the first one) I used a jack under the > muffler when disconnecting the muffler hangers and the x-brace kept the > front up when unbolted from the manifold. Gradually lower that very > heavy beast while pulling it rearward. Fortunately I have lots of jacks, so was able to support both ends of the exhausst and then wheel the whole thing out from under the car. > The heat shield; unbolt a side away from you and lower it first so the rocks > and sand fall away from your head. Wish I'd thought of that! <g> > You do need to take the crossmember down to get on the guibo > nuts and support the trans with a jack. Getting the sucker out you just > mark and unbolt the center bearing and lower the shaft there pushing it > sideward and the centering shaft pulls out of the transmission flange. > Lowering the trans tail a little helps too. Not sure why mine had difficulty getting disassembly clearance, but that's just how it was. > If you used an extension on the air gun a lot of the impact is lost there. > They are torqued to 85lb/ft. I had to use an extension *and* a universal, so yeah, torque attenuation! > I had the exhaust already off since I was doing the head gasket any way. > Thanks Neil for the pointer on that one. Your mechanic was right, take > the head out with the exhaust manifold on and bungee the intake to the > side. Very nice way to do the job. And if only I'd picked up that gem before doing the job... > Taking the intake off would have > sucked since my car came with the fuel line connectors that require a > special tool to get off. (nice going BMW) It is actually possible to keep the fuel line connected in any case. There's just enough slack in the hoses to pull the fuel rail and lines around from behind after they're disconnected from the intake manifold. I've done it this way a couple of times, but did remove the cabin air intake plenum for working room. > I will write up how I did the job and post. Started right up, no more vanos > marbles and hope no more coolant in the oil. Cool! Here's keeping my fingers crossed for you. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#10. LTW Wheels for Sale - from Peter Wheeler
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Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 17:27:39 -0600 From: Peter Wheeler <JPWheelr@dakarm3.com> Subject: LTW Wheels for Sale Set of 4, 7.5" (all of them - not staggered) Looking for $1200 shipped Details and pictures at: http://www.dakarm3.com/ltwwheels.htm