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#1. VANOS Noise and MAF code - from Jake Leverett
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 17:27:00 -0500 From: Jake Leverett <jake.leverett@gtri.gatech.edu> Subject: VANOS Noise and MAF code To All, I am new to the list so If I am not following proper proto-call please be kind enough to inform me of my error, no flames required. I have a 98 E36 M3 drive train installed in an 88 E30 M3. I have had this arrangement for almost a year now. In order to make this conversion I have used the Zionsville Automotive CD for instruction which involves converting the engine to an OBDI fuel management system. The car is also equipped with an HFM MAF meter. The car has been doing very well until recently. Lately I have noticed an increase rattling noise level coming from the front of the engine. I have replaced tensioner pulley and one of the idler pulleys (not the A/C idler) even though these bearing appears to be only marginally in question. I can not detect only the slightest play in the water pump. But since the VANOS unit is so close to the water pump it is difficult to isolate the noise. I am running Mobile 1 15W50. I have the Euro oil cooler mount and have plumbed up the stock E30 M3 oil cooler. Is it possible I am running too heavy of an oil weight? Any advice is welcome. In a totally non related problem my check engine light ( a circuit I added while doing the engine conversion since an E30 M3 does not have a check engine light) has come on. By depressing the throttle five times inside of five seconds with the ignition key in the run position the check engine light flashes the fault code. The codes states it is a MAF sensor problem. Does anyone have a test and repair menthod for the HFM MAF? TIA, Jake
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#2. Re: [E36M3] VANOS Noise and MAF code - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 14:44:47 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS Noise and MAF code Hi, I don't know about your MAF issue but the other issue I might be ale to shed some light. The bag or marbles or rattling is probably the VANOS. It is a typical complaint on some cars. The PO had the VANOS replaced on my car at about 60K because he thought it was noisy. Running 15W-50 is probably not the issue, but you did not state if you live in freezing weather. I live in No. Ca. and I run 20W-50. It never freezes where I live. Usually never makes it below 40. Kent Jake Leverett wrote: > Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 17:27:00 -0500 > From: Jake Leverett <jake.leverett@gtri.gatech.edu> > Subject: VANOS Noise and MAF code > > To All, > > I am new to the list so If I am not following proper proto-call > please be kind enough to inform me of my error, no flames required. > > I have a 98 E36 M3 drive train installed in an 88 E30 M3. I have had > this arrangement for almost a year now. In order to make this > conversion I have used the Zionsville Automotive CD for instruction > which involves converting the engine to an OBDI fuel management > system. The car is also equipped with an HFM MAF meter. The car has > been doing very well until recently. > > Lately I have noticed an increase rattling noise level coming from the > front of the engine. I have replaced tensioner pulley and one of the > idler pulleys (not the A/C idler) even though these bearing appears to > be only marginally in question. I can not detect only the slightest > play in the water pump. But since the VANOS unit is so close to the > water pump it is difficult to isolate the noise. I am running Mobile > 1 15W50. I have the Euro oil cooler mount and have plumbed up the > stock E30 M3 oil cooler. Is it possible I am running too heavy of an > oil weight? Any advice is welcome. > > In a totally non related problem my check engine light ( a circuit I > added while doing the engine conversion since an E30 M3 does not have > a check engine light) has come on. By depressing the throttle five > times inside of five seconds with the ignition key in the run position > the check engine light flashes the fault code. The codes states it is > a MAF sensor problem. Does anyone have a test and repair menthod for > the HFM MAF? > > TIA, Jake > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#3. smog check results - from Andy Radin
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 15:36:11 -0800 From: "Andy Radin" <fourfa@hotmail.com> Subject: smog check results Hello all, My 98 M3 just had its first dyno-type CA smog check. Results were slightly above average on CO (well under allowable), under average on NO (a tiny fraction of allowable), and just BARELY squeaked by on HC (53 of 54 ppm allowable). I just installed new front O2 sensors a few weeks ago. Should I be worried about the cat converters here? It's got 105,000 miles. Andy R. 98 m3/2
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#4. Re: [E36M3] 8.5 w LTW's all around? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 16:23:18 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 8.5 w LTW's all around? I'll guarantee you they flex at the top (255/40-17 RA-1s). I've got the rubber marks on my spring adjuster collar to prove it. 3mm is the minimum clearance I'd recommend. I can't quite get a pencil between my tire and spring collar without compressing the tire a little. That's about 2-3mm. I got slight rubbing before I went to bigger spacers. The last thing I need is a cut down tire on the track. Street probably wouldn't be a problem. If you want to see how they move, watch a NASCAR race where they have cameras under the wheel well looking at the brakes and inner wheel. Of course those are slicks and they have taller sidewalls. But, you get the idea. Jay > Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 17:05:03 -0500 > From: loweseaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] 8.5 w LTW's all around? > > I had a long discussion on this very subject with a guy on our local BMW chat list. I never could get him to understand the difference between the bottom and the top of the tire, so I gave up. Maybe I will have better luck explaining myself this time. The road contacts the tire at the bottom. As you corner, the ground exerts a sideways lateral force on the tire and does indeed make the tire flex sideways. However, at the top, there is no such external lateral force on the tire. No force = no flex at the top. > > However, things are quite that simple. You will agree that the tire wants to center itself on the rim if it is pushed sideways - correct? So as soon as tire leaves contact with the ground, the tire will start to move back to center. Say the tire flexes sideways 15 mm at the very bottom due to lateral cornering forces. Will it still be 15 mm off center at the top? It can't still be 15 mm off center. It might be 14.999999 mm, but not 15.0. The tire has to come back to center eventually. How long does it take? That depends on a lot of things but probably tire construction and stiffness of the sidewall is most important. > > Now, I'll agree that the tire might not have enough time to snap back to center by the time it rotates around to the top. It depends on how fast the tire is rotating. But I will argue that it doesn't take very long. And I will argue the tire is closer to center than whatever the maximum deflection is at the bottom. The faster and harder you corner, the more residual tire flex you will experience at the top. > > All that said, bottom line is I don't think it matters. You might get some rubbing but I doubt it does any more than just light "polishing" of the tire. I'd check to see that you don't have some sharp edge rubbing on the tire but if it is just the stock (or Bilstein in my case) strut, no problem. I really can't see any harm in a little tire rubbing. You might hear it but your wheel will not lock up - it will cause an insignificant braking force. The tire won't self destruct - the rubbing occurs for a short amount of time - and doesn't occur at all when you turn the opposite direction. > > Thats my story and I'm sticking to it! ;-) > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave DeBuhr <debuhr@comcast.net> > To: loweseaton@aol.com; E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 13:30:39 -0800 > Subject: RE: [E36M3] 8.5 w LTW's all around? > > > So sidewalls won't flex 3 mm? Easiest way to tell is drive it around > for a few days. Take some brisk corners in both directions then > pop off the wheel and look for any rub marks. I run 8.5 LTWs on mine and had > a little rubbing on my GC kit even with the extra "kick" they added for me. > I now run a 10 MM spacer. I use SO3s BTW. >
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#5. Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? - from John Phillips
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Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 01:48:33 +0000 From: "John Phillips" <jlphil@hotmail.com> Subject: Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? What is the purpose of the flat round sensor in the passenger-side front brake duct in my '95 M3? It came out, tearing up the wires, but everything seems to be working great without it! Thanks. John Phillips, Jupiter, FL
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 17:57:20 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? Is that the ambient air temperature sensor? I'm pretty sure that's in one of the brake ducts. Just curious, how did it get ripped out? Jason --- John Phillips <jlphil@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 01:48:33 +0000 > From: "John Phillips" <jlphil@hotmail.com> > Subject: Purpose of passenger-side brake duct > sensor? > > What is the purpose of the flat round sensor in the > passenger-side front > brake duct in my '95 M3? It came out, tearing up the > wires, but everything > seems to be working great without it! Thanks. John > Phillips, Jupiter, FL > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. Tires for Sale - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 21:15:34 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Tires for Sale I have 3 Bridgestone Potenza RE730 tires, 225/45-17 that I'm looking to sell. Tires are in good shape, with no plugs or repairs. 6/32 tread remaining (original was around 10/32, so they have about 1/2 of their useable tread remaining). Asking $50 each or $90 for a pair or $130 for all three, plus shipping from 19301. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 22:14:50 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? In a message dated 3/28/2005 8:50:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, jlphil@hotmail.com writes: What is the purpose of the flat round sensor in the passenger-side front brake duct in my '95 M3? It came out, tearing up the wires, but everything seems to be working great without it! Thanks. John Phillips, Jupiter, FL I think you just lost your outside temp probe. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 00:40:02 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Purpose of passenger-side brake duct sensor? John asks: What is the purpose of the flat round sensor in the passenger-side front brake duct in my '95 M3? It came out, tearing up the wires, but everything seems to be working great without it! Thanks. John Phillips, Jupiter, FL There are two outside temperature sensors - one in each brake duct. The one in the driver's side brake duct reports to the OBC. If you disconnect/lose that one, your OBC outside temperature will read -52 degrees. (Ask me how I know.) The one in your passenger side brake duct measures the outside temperature for your heated mirrors, windshield nozzles, and door locks. [Not 100% sure about the windshield nozzles and door locks. They might both be heated all the time, regardless of outside temperature.) I don't know if losing the sensor means your mirrors, windshield nozzles, and door locks default to heated all the time or not. But living in Florida, you probably won't miss heated mirrors. :-) Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#10. Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed? - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 01:31:03 -0500 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed? Well, it seems as though my '97 540i (105K miles) has suffered the dealer's mantra "they all do that" catastrophic domino melt down. The general consensus is that the famous leaky valve covers have done their job once again by gradually filling up the wells w/ oil and causing the coils to short causing misfiring enough to slowly destroy the O2 sensors taking the cat w/ them and just as an added parting gift frying the DME as it does contortions trying to figure out what the F$&K it's suppose to compensate. Which on the early '97 540i models can't be repaired do to some mojo I'm not privy to. So far I'm looking at replacing the valve cover gaskets, 4 coils/boots, 2 O2 sensors, a cat and the computer. All this on a one owner 105K mile car. BTW, as a side note this will make the 3rd time a cat have bit the dust. I was thinking it had to be some kind of one off lemon, but as I did my homework this is a very common problem, one that BMW doesn't seem to feel any obligation to identify and fix. Before you ask no this isn't the engine production that had the earlier problems when the V8 540i came out, at least BMW was forced to go back to the drawing board on that one. So, I would like to know anyone that's BTDT and where to find a DME for under a grand, not to mention the other parts. Programa can't help because this early model doesn't have the "ports" that the later models '98 on have. Just a parting thought here, but if the DME's failure is somehow a loose or broken solder joint wouldn't it be worth a try to re solder every thing on the board or am I way off base? The way I look at it is that if I can't use the current DME and no body can repair it what harm would it do to try an fortify all of the soldering. I know I'm really reaching, but at a $1000 replacement...........? TIA Evan PS I need to sell my '95 M3 Automatic w/ 65K miles so I can fix the 540i. Black w/ gray, daughter driven, Daddy paid for! Priced for immediate sell