E36M3 #4217

Monday, April 04, 2005 11:59:50

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Reverse Light - from Steve Crowl
#2. Re: MY '95 valve retainer problem - from kim.burgess@att.net
#3. Re: Water temp sender location - from Neil Maller
#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Mark Dadgar
#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Thomas Philip
#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Doug Wirth
#7. RE:SS Brake Line Install - from Michael, Dave
#8. '95 M3 Track widths? - from Scott Spangenberg
#9. Steering Rack Change on '96 M3 - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
#10. Steering Rack - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Reverse Light - from Steve Crowl
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 22:36:15 -0500 From: "Steve Crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Subject: Reverse Light Hi All. I have one of the very early UUC short-shifters. I recently noticed my reverse (back-up) were not working. I pulled the switch out and tested it; worked fine. Reinstalled, worked once, then doesn't. When I pulled it and reinstall, same result. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve

Reply to: Steve Crowl

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. Re: MY '95  valve retainer problem - from kim.burgess@att.net
Top
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 03:46:26 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Re: MY '95 valve retainer problem Tom - Yes the MY '95 3.0L has/had valve retainer issues. Early production (pre-10/95) versions used softer valve retainers. BMW fixed this in the 10/95 build models and for the later 3.2L engines. Ask for documentation regarding this repair when buying a used pre-10/95 3.0L. If none is offered, it is likely you will need to accomplish this repair. I believe it can be accomplished without removing the head. fyi - http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/engine/e36_m3_carls_valve_failure.html KLBurgess Tom Reynolds asked: "Someone posted around 2 months ago about a valve retainer problem on model year '95 M3s. I wrote back asking for more information, but never received an answer. As I'm considering looking for a '95 M3 to purchase, this might be something I should be aware of, so can anyone enlighten me on it? Solutions, cost, s/n "fix" etc.? Thanks a lot, Tom Reynolds - Sand Springs, OK"

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. Re: Water temp sender location - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 23:14:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Water temp sender location on 4/3/05 6:19 PM, Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> wrote: > Thanks to all who responded! Appreciate the help! > Either one of the options (thermostat housing or > in-line Greddy-like part) would be fine. The thing I don't like about the inline/GReddy kind of part is that there are two extra junctions and hose clamps. From a theoretical standpoint that's more things to fail/leak. Assuming the aluminum t'stat housing has adequate wall thickness to drill and tap - and if it doesn't a bung could be welded on - that's a cleaner solution. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!

Reply to: Neil Maller

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 21:36:08 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location On Apr 3, 2005, at 9:19 PM, Neil Maller wrote: > The thing I don't like about the inline/GReddy kind of part is that > there > are two extra junctions and hose clamps. From a theoretical standpoint > that's more things to fail/leak. Assuming the aluminum t'stat housing > has > adequate wall thickness to drill and tap - and if it doesn't a bung > could be > welded on - that's a cleaner solution. It's right behind the fan, though, so depending on the length of the sender ... - Mark

Reply to: Mark Dadgar

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Thomas Philip
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 08:44:44 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <tphilip@omtay.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location On Apr 4, 2005, at 12:39 AM, Mark Dadgar wrote: > On Apr 3, 2005, at 9:19 PM, Neil Maller wrote: >> The thing I don't like about the inline/GReddy kind of part is that >> there >> are two extra junctions and hose clamps. From a theoretical standpoint >> that's more things to fail/leak. Assuming the aluminum t'stat housing >> has >> adequate wall thickness to drill and tap - and if it doesn't a bung >> could be >> welded on - that's a cleaner solution. > > It's right behind the fan, though, so depending on the length of the > sender ... The tapped hole is vertical, so there should be no fan interference. t

Reply to: Thomas Philip

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location - from Doug Wirth
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Doug Wirth <doug_wirth@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location I tapped my Alum housing 2 years ago. works great. and is a very easy to do. Thomas Philip <tphilip@omtay.org> wrote: Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 08:44:44 -0400 From: Thomas Philip Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Water temp sender location On Apr 4, 2005, at 12:39 AM, Mark Dadgar wrote: > On Apr 3, 2005, at 9:19 PM, Neil Maller wrote: >> The thing I don't like about the inline/GReddy kind of part is that >> there >> are two extra junctions and hose clamps. From a theoretical standpoint >> that's more things to fail/leak. Assuming the aluminum t'stat housing >> has >> adequate wall thickness to drill and tap - and if it doesn't a bung >> could be >> welded on - that's a cleaner solution. > > It's right behind the fan, though, so depending on the length of the > sender ... The tapped hole is vertical, so there should be no fan interference. t ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* Doug

Reply to: Doug Wirth

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. RE:SS Brake Line Install - from Michael, Dave
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 10:40:22 -0400 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE:SS Brake Line Install Raza: from a post I made several years ago: "But the important part is what I learned is about disconnecting the hard lines from the old rubber lines. In short, buy the BEST flare nut wrench you can. Craftsman is NOT good enough. After rounding a fitting with a craftsman, I ordered a Snap-On (from the factory web-site). It made all the difference in world (along with lots of penetrating oil). The rounded nut? I loosened it with the very slick 3-point vice-grip that clamps on 3 nut flats. There are 3 sizes - I used the smallest one." The 3 point vice grips are these: http://www.toolsource.com/ost/product.asp?sourceid=googlevisegrip&dept%5 Fid=500&pf%5Fid=51731&mscssid=EFN5RVF3LB908G5K7EFEL6WREXGEF1C7 It worked on a the flare nut that the craftsman flare nut wrench rounded off. Good luck Dave 98 m4/3 > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 21:22:34 -0800 > From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> > Subject: SS Brake Line Install > > I finally was able to get around to installing the new SS > brake lines I bought for my M3. The first 3 wheels went easy > as pie: everything came off at the first turn and installed > just as easy. After finishing the third wheel, I must have > jinxed my ass when I thought "This is the easiest line > install I've ever done." Mind you that I have been using all > the proper flarenut wrenchs and tools. > > I start on the last lines and immediately proceeded to round > off the top nut (connected to the hard line that disappears > into the body). I figured I would leave it alone for a > little while with penetrating fluid on it and start working > on the second fitting- once again, same thing happened. > Getting back the top nut, I tried a combination of heat gun, > more pentrating fluid, locking pliers, cursing, and voodoo > yet it didn't budge but proceeded to round off even more. > After that I "hit a wall" and walked away. > > I'm going to try and hit it tomorrow morning using the heat > gun again and perhaps getting another experienced hand to > help out. In the mean time, however, I was wondering if > anyone had any tips or recommedations of tools to help > accomplish getting the damn fittings loosened. I've already > bought 3 sets of flarenut wrenchs, and on this particular > wheels seem to be > > All help is appreciated. > > Thanks in advance! > > Drive Safely, > Raza > >

Reply to: Michael, Dave

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. '95 M3 Track widths? - from Scott Spangenberg
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 08:10:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: '95 M3 Track widths? Our first autocross event is next weekend, and before I drive the car in anger for the first time I want to check the alignment. I've done manual alignments several times on race cars, so that's not a problem. I am contemplating all this, but I don't have my shop manual handy and I am wondering how the front and rear track widths compare on the '95 M3. I have used the "sight line" method of checking toe, but that only works if I know the relative front and rear track dimensions. Can somebody look that up for me? -Scott Spangenberg __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second dates. http://personals.yahoo.com

Reply to: Scott Spangenberg

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. Steering Rack Change on '96 M3 - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:57:14 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Steering Rack Change on '96 M3 I am considering changing the steering rack on my '96 M3, as the steering is not as tight as it once was. I have already changed strut bearings, struts, springs, lower control arms, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, calipers, rotor, so there really isn't much else left... I have checked many of the back end components, as I know some have said they have had a similar issue due to worn back end components. The struts, springs and rotors have been replaced in the backs as well. Has anyone else noticed that the steering is less tight after many miles (150k+), and found it to be the steering rack? The symptom is perhaps 1/4" to 1/2" play in the steering wheel, but seems to be more noticeable when turning in one direction. I can't recall which direction, as the M3 has been hibernating all winter. The symptom shows up with either my winter or summer tires. I do notice a PS reservoir leak, but it doesn't seem to be a low fluid issue. Any thoughts before I order a rack. I figure with 150k+ miles the teeth in the rack might just be worn a bit... Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. Steering Rack - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
Top
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:58:23 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Steering Rack I forget to also ask, has anyone changed their rack? Looking at the Bentley it mentioned removing the airbag.... the idea didn't motivate me... Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams

Reply to:

Top