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#1. Worn Wheel Bearing question - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:53:53 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Worn Wheel Bearing question Greetings Gruppe, Question for y'all, it can even be a true / false question if you want to answer with a single letter! Worn front wheel bearings can be a cause of steering wheel shudder, correct? Swapped my summer tires back on last night, noticed quite a bit of steering wheel shudder, surprising since there was hardly any with the winter tires on. Dismount the tires to make sure I didn't do something like forget to flick off some grime or a dead bug on the inside mounting face of the wheels. I did notice that there was some play in the bearings instead, so at this point I'm guessing that is the suspect (though the tires do need to get balanced as well). At 125k miles, not a tremendous amount of track time but lots of auto-x and tons of miles on DC's potholed streets, I suppose not surprising they're a bit loose. Comments? Thanks, Andrej '97 M3 Waiting for the weekend as well, cause this is the very last SKI weekend of the season :(
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#2. RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Sean W. Smith
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:58:36 -0400 From: "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice All, Toyos are great... But Dunlop has this new tire the super sport R that is about as sticky and 1/2 the price... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED..... Eat em up while there cheap. They will not stay that way for long.... I'm even using as my street tires.... Seam Smith Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: Carl Stern [mailto:carl.stern@xilinx.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] R compounds advice Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 14:57:14 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: R compounds advice Time to get some new R compounds for DE schools and track days. I'm looking to move up to something better (stickier) than the Yokohama A032Rs I have been using. I finally feel that the tire is now limiting me more than the driver is. I'm thinking of switching to the Toyo RA1. I still would prefer to be able to drive to the track on them, and have them last more than a weekend. So I am willing to tradeoff some ultimate grip for some longevity. Any better choice than this for what I want? What air pressures do folks like with this tire? Am I correct in thinking that the other options, Hoosier, Kumho, Cup Sports, etc. will have better grip at the expense of wear? What else is out there? I have made it up to the A group in our club school (RMCBMWCCA). I run a stock 95, except for a full Conforti intake setup. I have new Konis going on, but springs, sways, bushings, alignment, etc. remain stock and likely will stay that way. The car is still a daily driver. The only other thing I do for track days is put on PF 97 pads in front with ATE super blue. How much would I notice moving up from 7.5" wheels to 8.5"? I've been using 235/40-17s. With my 95 diff gearing and high altitude, I don't really want to raise my gear ratio by the bigger tires. A little more width wouldn't hurt though. How much will an X brace do? What does it weigh? thanks, Carl 95 M3 39k Daytona Violet ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from dhogg
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 20:01:35 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice Carl, Jim and Jonathan are right on the money. Last year I would have recommended Kumho Victoracers, but their quality has been a little spotty recently. I just posted a similar question to yours on the Club Racing list (interrupting the stimulating illegal piston debate) and the RA1 was the overwhelming favorite. If you run them on dry surfaces, buy them shaved to 6mm depth. It will improve your tread life. Best lap times come at 4 mm, but you're not racin'. Flip them on the rims when they show abnormal wear on one side or the other. Cool thing about the RA1's is that they DON'T benefit from heat cycling - another major PITA solved. Son't sweat the wear bars. They're good to the cords, and they seem to improve with wear. (All of the foregoing is what Frisby Race Tire told me when I ordered mine earlier today.) They have 235/40-17 in stock for only $170 each. Dave Hogg IS #20
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Worn Wheel Bearing question - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 17:04:08 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Worn Wheel Bearing question On Tue, April 5, 2005 4:59 pm, Andrej Dolenc said: > Question for y'all, it can even be a true / false question if you want > to answer with a single letter! > > Worn front wheel bearings can be a cause of steering wheel shudder, > correct? Possibly :-) At least, that's the conclusion I've come to concerning the bit of shudder I have <g>. Some point this summer I'll be doing a F wheel bearing change, partially to hopefully cure this, and partially just cause it's probably time (154K miles, ~10K track, original F wheel bearing :-)). So, I vote for "definite maybe". :-) Jim Bassett
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#5. E36 parts for sale - from Rob Verenna
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Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 20:54:08 -0400 From: Rob Verenna <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: E36 parts for sale Everything is FREE. Pick-up near Pittsburgh, PA or you pay shipping. All parts are from a 1994 325i (four door). * Rear Seat - bench, non-folding, two pieces (seat back and seat bottom) * Rear door panels - two-tone light and dark gray * Driver's door window glass - non-tinted, perfect shape * Factory Radio (no radio code, you'll have to call the dealer) * Passenger side airbag cover * Passenger side sun visor * Seat belt, middle rear seat - both belt & latch pieces * Two window switches * Hazard button * Emergency brake boot - black 'leather', small tear (~1/4") * Windshield wiper stalk * Turn signal stalk * Four factory wheel center caps for BBS-style 15" wheels * Belt tensioner pulley **brand new** - not sure which one, pn 11 28 1 748 131 * Fog light bracket (bought for '95 M3) **brand new** - I think it's for the left side, pn 518.01.262.30 - rob
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#6. RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from ajvdh1@comcast.net
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Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 01:32:20 +0000 From: ajvdh1@comcast.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice > Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 20:01:35 -0400 > From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> > Jim and Jonathan are right on the money. Last year I would have recommended > Kumho Victoracers, but their quality has been a little spotty recently. I > just posted a similar question to yours on the Club Racing list > (interrupting the stimulating illegal piston debate) and the RA1 was the > overwhelming favorite. How do you think they compare to the V710s? A lot of people 'round here seem pretty impressed by the 710s. I was running Victoracers last year mostly for autocross with the occasional track day thrown in. I liked 'em well enough, but I think I preferred the Hoosierdaddies I ran the year before. I was running the VR's in 245/45-17 on Kosei 17x8-1/2 with 41 mm offset. I have Koni coil-overs in front, and I rolled the rear fenders, and had no rubbing. The car sits about 1-1/2" lower than stock. If I were to try the RA-1s, would the 255s possibly fit? - Alain (don't wanna start no tire war. No sir.) -- "You can't buff out a tree." Jim Leithauser explains the advantages of autocross as a car-control training venue.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Ignition coil problem - from Robert Exconde - 99e36m2
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 21:35:58 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m2" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Ignition coil problem Thanks Jim! I changed one last year so I have replaced the remaining five today. The only brand that is available now at the dealer are the Bremi's. I'll change the boot when the dealer gets restocked with 6 in the next couple days. I'm surprised that they sell them seperatly. With 115K miles I guess I"ll change the plugs, oil and filters while I'm in the engine bay, then the ps2s go on this weekend. rE 99E36M3 -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 1:07 PM To: Robert Exconde - 99e36m2 Cc: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ignition coil problem On Tue, April 5, 2005 10:59 am, Robert Exconde - 99e36m2 said: > I called the dealer and he told me to replace all 6 including the boot. The boot is part of the coil pack, AFAIK. > He > told me that bad ignitnion wires can damage the DME.... Is this true? True. I also had been instructed to replace all 6 when I was troubleshooting an issue with the race car. Also, be sure to use the same brand of coil packs as the originals. I'm not sure if this is an issue on the M3, but on the 325is there were 2 brands available, Bosch and Bremi. > at > $82 > a coil, its not cheap. True, but compare that to $1300-$1500 for a DME... Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - original coil packs 1993 325is #44 JP - new coils packs (they weren't they problem, however :-))
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#8. RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:55:15 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice On Tue, April 5, 2005 6:39 pm, ajvdh1@comcast.net said: > How do you think they compare to the V710s? Well, since it would seem that the V710 is Kumhos competition for Hossiers, I would expect that a comparison to the RA-1 would be similar - i.e the Toyos would be slower, but last a lot longer. > A lot of people 'round here > seem pretty impressed by the 710s. I was running Victoracers last year > mostly for autocross with the occasional track day thrown in. I liked 'em > well enough, but I think I preferred the Hoosierdaddies I ran the year > before. That makes sense, considering Hoosier makes a compound specifically for autox. Even if you used their road-race compound, I would expect that would be an improvement over the VR, since the Hoosiers' are a softer compound and would work better in the limited "track time" versus road racing. > I was running the VR's in 245/45-17 on Kosei 17x8-1/2 with 41 mm offset. > I have Koni coil-overs in front, and I rolled the rear fenders, and had no > rubbing. The car sits about 1-1/2" lower than stock. If I were to try > the RA-1s, would the 255s possibly fit? Possibly :-) I don't know the exact measurement, but I'm fairly certain my race car is more than 1-1/2" lower than stock, and 255 VRs fit (on the same Koseis). I know MarkD has a set of 255 RA-1s mounted on the same wheels, and they're OK on his lowered race car (not as low as mine, however). > - Alain (don't wanna start no tire war. No sir.) No war, just discussion :-) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#9. RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Ty Vilhauer
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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 20:27:21 -0700 From: "Ty Vilhauer" <quest@pacifier.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] R compounds advice I ran on RA/1's last year and couldn't be happier with them, I will say I have very limited track experience and it was my first season. But they seemed to be the overwhelming favorite in the NW. -----Original Message----- From: Carl Stern [mailto:carl.stern@xilinx.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 2:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] R compounds advice Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 14:57:14 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: R compounds advice Time to get some new R compounds for DE schools and track days. I'm looking to move up to something better (stickier) than the Yokohama A032Rs I have been using. I finally feel that the tire is now limiting me more than the driver is. I'm thinking of switching to the Toyo RA1. I still would prefer to be able to drive to the track on them, and have them last more than a weekend. So I am willing to tradeoff some ultimate grip for some longevity. Any better choice than this for what I want? What air pressures do folks like with this tire? Am I correct in thinking that the other options, Hoosier, Kumho, Cup Sports, etc. will have better grip at the expense of wear? What else is out there? I have made it up to the A group in our club school (RMCBMWCCA). I run a stock 95, except for a full Conforti intake setup. I have new Konis going on, but springs, sways, bushings, alignment, etc. remain stock and likely will stay that way. The car is still a daily driver. The only other thing I do for track days is put on PF 97 pads in front with ATE super blue. How much would I notice moving up from 7.5" wheels to 8.5"? I've been using 235/40-17s. With my 95 diff gearing and high altitude, I don't really want to raise my gear ratio by the bigger tires. A little more width wouldn't hurt though. How much will an X brace do? What does it weigh? thanks, Carl 95 M3 39k Daytona Violet ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. OT - Oil Quality Sensor - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 08:50:20 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: OT - Oil Quality Sensor I suppose if you owned a fleet of racecars, this could be economically feasible. It is a pretty cool product that tells you the condition of the oil. I have no affiliation, just saw the article in a trade rag. Not too technical either. http://www.nxtbook.com/fx/books/advanstar/sensors-0405/index.php?startpage=33 (Annoying non-pdf format) -J