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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:04:55 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice On Apr 6, 2005, at 8:09 AM, Ron & Brenya B. wrote: > 8" is the minimum tire width for 235/40 tires. Except that the '95 M3's came with those tires mounted on 7.5" wheels from the factory. > I'm happy with them. It's too bad that IFG wheels are no longer being > produced. They are great track wheels. > I agree - light and strong. The Koseis in 17x8.5 are a decent substitute. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:16:01 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice On Wed, April 6, 2005 10:09 am, Mark Dadgar said: > On Apr 6, 2005, at 8:09 AM, Ron & Brenya B. wrote: >> 8" is the minimum tire width for 235/40 tires. > > Except that the '95 M3's came with those tires mounted on 7.5" wheels > from the factory. Yep, and my Toyos (235/45, actually) are mounted on 7.5" '95 M3 wheels. No problems. > The Koseis in 17x8.5 are a decent substitute. Again, agreed. I've been very pleased with my set. Bonus that they fit over the front brakes without a spacer. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP
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#3. Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Robert Puertas
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:22:13 -0700 From: "Robert Puertas" <Puertas@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice Ddin't read all the posts on the digest, so sorry if I'm repeating, but there's another tire you all might want to consider. Yokohama will have the A048 available in the following sizes very soon: 225/45-17 235/45-17 245/40-17 255/40-17 235/40-18
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#4. Re: R compounds advice - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 12:22:58 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: R compounds advice on 4/6/05 8:09 AM, "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> wrote: > Toyos are great. One other thing about the Toyo RA-1 is that it's awesome in the wet - well, assuming you have some tread depth, anyway. I now drive to the track on a set of full depth RA-1's and carry a shaved set in the car. The full depths last fall on the Toyos at Mid Ohio were so good I almost convinced myself that I'm not as much of a chicken in the wet as I really am! In the dry I'd say that they have significantly more grip than the Yoko A032R, maybe just a bit less than the Kumho VictorRacers but last a lot longer. > But Dunlop has this new tire the super sport R that is about as sticky and 1/2 > the price... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED..... Eat em up while there cheap. They will > not stay that way for long.... I'm even using as my street tires.... I've heard good things about the new Dunlops from racer friends, but there is a size issue for us. The only standard compatible size is 225/45-17 with a tread width of 8.3". Reviews (only 3 so far) on TR's web site are mixed. Kumho VictorRacers come in at 8.6" for the 225/45-17 or a meaty 9.7" for the 255/40-17, bring your own fender roller, front spacers and 8.5" or wider rims. I just measured my RA-1's at about 8.5" for the 235/40-17. Seems to me that the Dunlops would be really attractive to us in a 235/40-17 or 245/40-17. Maybe that'll come? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#5. Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:27:54 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice On Wed, April 6, 2005 6:09 am, Jay W. Hudson said: > I'm running 255/40-17 RA-1s on Kosei 17x8.5s, 40mm offset, GC race c/os > with > extra "kick" (provides more tire to c/o clearance). I'm using 10mm > spacers > in front. Hmm, interesting. Must be a GC coilover issue(?) - MarkD, don't you use a 10mm spacer as well? With the Bilstein coilovers on the front of my race car, I run a similar tire/wheel combo (255/40/17 Kumho Victoracers on the same Kosei's) with no spacer. And AP Racing 4-pot brakes. Maybe it's just me <g>, since I also have 8.5" stock Contours on the front of the M3 (stock strut housings) and no spacers. > Car is fairly low at approximately 12.5" front and 11.75" > rear. Measured how? Now that we're talking about this, I'm curious as to the ride height of the race car, so I want to make the same measurement. Jim Bassett
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#6. Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:39:11 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice On Apr 6, 2005, at 10:29 AM, Jim Bassett wrote: > Hmm, interesting. Must be a GC coilover issue(?) - MarkD, don't you > use a > 10mm spacer as well? 5mm, actually. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#7. Re: [E36M3] What's wrong with this? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 10:45:13 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What's wrong with this? On Wed, April 6, 2005 7:29 am, Don Eilenberger said: > What do you think the story is? I emailed him to ask about it, > asking how a euro engine is listed as a '99 and in the US, There are quite a few Euro S52 motors in the US, this isn't all that uncommon. And based solely on the one picture, it does look like that's what it is. As to the rest of the auction, I have no opinion :-) Jim Bassett
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#8. Head gasket replaced and vanos noise exorcised... (very long) - from Townsend, William
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 14:21:05 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Head gasket replaced and vanos noise exorcised... (very long) So thanks to the list for all of the input and discussion about vanos marbles and head gasket replacements. I just went through this and thought I would share how I did mine (96 M3 S52).... So here goes. (Neil on the list had relayed the information that his mechanic does this job by not removing the exhaust manifold from the head and not removing the intake from the car. So that is what I did and worked great. Thanks Neil) 1. Bought the tools to set and verify the cam timing. These tools are a must! I got them from zdmak tools. $135. I bought the camshaft alignment kit (cam timing blocks and tdc pin) and bought the dummy chain tensioner. This I think is the bare minimum. Should have gotten the exhaust sprocket tool since the spring plate tension is so high on the intake cam but found a way around that. The head bolt socket tool would have been nice too but just put my M12 torx socket on the bench grinder and problem solved. If you have the TIS, read it, it helps. Also did not know the head is torqued using torque angles. A torque angle gauge would be really nice. I just ended up making one from cardboard. Tags, bags and sharpie are a must to get it all back right. Look at http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Timing/E36-Cam shaft-Timing.htm for really nice pictures of the head and a really good description of the timing process. 2. Parts I replaced was the head gasket set from BMW. Had every gasket all the way to the exhaust manifold to exhaust gasket. Vanos unit, head bolt set, all intake cam stop disks, spring plate and sprocket. (did not want the can of marbles back) The internal upper chain tensioner and external lower tensioner. 3. First step was to take the top covers off and plugs so the cam timing can be verified before disassembling. (disconnect battery before turning the first nut) Took the bulkhead off since it was going to be in the way. This was much easier than the TIS describes. Need to remove the weather strip, the wiper arm (pass) lift the plastic to remove the two screws that hold the wiring box in place then the 3 screws in the firewall and the bulkhead just slides out by lifting up. 4. Verify timing. The fun was finding the tdc hole. This sucker is in the block, below the starter near this shelf like piece of the casting. Hard to see but will find the pink plug and that is where the TDC pin goes. It is also behind a cable tie which needs to be removed. You can rotate the motor clockwise till you see the exhaust and intake lobes on cylinder 1 pointing at each other, then I took a 6mm allen wrench through the TDC hole to center the flywheel hole with the TDC pin hole. This was to verify I was close to the right spot. Then insert the TDC pin and move the crank very slowly while pushing the pin in till it drops into the flywheel hole. Verify the crank is locked once you think it is in. Now insert the dummy tensioner and tighten very lightly to simulate a tightened chain. Now at the top of the motor you may find the intake cam slightly rotated out of timing, this could be from the vanos cup not being seated. Mine was like this so I had to rotate the intake cam clockwise to get the vanos cup seated all the way in. (I think I had the oil line off it by this time.) You need to remove the 3 cover studs on the back of the head to put the cam locating tool/blocks on the cams. Once on the cams, the blocks must be sitting flat on the head if the timing is correct. Now you know that the timing is correct and what it looks like. 5. Remove lots of crap. Ready for the fluid shower??? Remove the exhaust, not the manifold. Drain radiator, drain block, remove coolant reservoir. (budget an hour of swearing and clean up from this) Remove oxygen sensors (also remove the wire loom from the back of the head that the O2 wires went through), unplug sensors and vac lines at front of head, remove cam position sensor. Remove mass airflow sensor, and intake boot. Unbolt the ASC valve body from the throttle body and lay it aside. Unbolt and remove dip stick. Unbolt the bottom of intake manifold supports (2) and unbolt the intake from the head. Now without taking the manifold out, lift the intake off the studs and pull it aside away from the head. Take a thick bungee cord and strap it out of the way. I made a little hook out of strapping for the bungee and bolted it to a strut bearing bolt. Now the intake is clear of the head. Need to unplug a sensor and remove the 2 coolant lines from the head now that they can be seen. Remove two main cooling hoses from thermo housing. 6. Head removal. The timing chain and vanos are next. Remove the dummy tensioner and push the top tensiner down and lock it with a small allen wrench through the hole in the tensioner. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the vanos on. I loosened the intake cam nuts since I did not have the sprocket wrench. Use a thin wrench but do not remove the nuts. Now loosen the exhaust sprocket torx screws. Rotate exhaust sprocket clockwise to push the vanos out of the intake cam. Once that is off, can remove both sprockets. Make note of the slots and the arrows on the sprockets. I kept my chain together with both sprockets so putting them back was easy. Remove the upper tensioner and the inner chain guide. Next is making note of the orientation of the main chain sprocket and remove it and support chain. Make note of the chain guide, beware of that when removing and replacing the head, don't want to break that thing. Now the head is ready to unbolt using the reverse of the tightening pattern. I took the cam alignment blocks off but did not rotate the motor back 30 deg. like the TIS said to, no issues. Carefully lift the head and exhaust manifold over the fender. Weighs about 80lbs. I could do this by myself but a helper would be great. Rest the head somewhere so nothing contacts the mating surface, cams or valves. I stood mine on end on a service cart. Watch that the head bolt washers do not fall out. They must all be in place for reassembly! Recheck when putting head back! 7. Clean the gasket off everything (head and block deck). Be very careful with the debris. Should never get into any of the passages. The smallest piece can be devastating. TIS says to clean the cylinder head bolt holes out and and lightly oil threads of new bolts. Swap the intake gaskets before placing the head fo ease of access. RTV sealant bead on the block to chain case seam and put gasket on block. With a helper, lift head into place. Will need to push chain and guide up a little when placing head so it passed through the channel in the head. Make sure the head settles down over the 2 locating dowels in the block. Should clunk into place and you should not be able to slide the head if it is in place. Follow correct torque pattern and phases and the head is down. 8. Vanos and timing. Put the cam timing blocks back on. Cams should not have moved. Reassembly is really the reverse. Only when you get to putting the vanos back. Once the sprockets, tensioners and chains are back on you now need to suck the vanos unit back into the intake sprocket. The exhaust sprocket bolts must be loose with little lash so it can be rotated. The dummy tensioner should be in and snug. Rotate the outer sprocket clockwise as far as will go with the sprocket wrench. Put vanos gasket on and place the vanos unit on the front of head and line up splined cup with the intake sprocket cup. Rotate the sprocket counter-clockwise catching the very first spline and this will suck the vanos cup into the sprocket. If done right, the vanos will be flush with the head and the cup will be fully seated into the vanos unit. You should not see the inner vanos shaft behind the cup. This would mean the cup was extended and should not be. Bolt down the vanos unit, release the top chain tensioner to take up the top slack, tighten the exhaust sprocket bolts. You can now remove the cam timing blocks and TDC pin. (Blocks should still be flush with head. If not you have moved the cams, bad) I went a little further and turned the motor clockwise (running direction) for 4 rotations and rechecked the timing by putting the tdc pin back, dummy tensioner and cam timing blocks. All checked out fine. Note: tried to shortcut using the real primary tensioner and the timing was off. Until I put in the dummy tensioner, the timing looked wrong since the chain had slack. The real tensioner is driven by oil pressure which you do not have until the motor is running. 9. The rest is just the reverse and getting it all back where it came from. Don't forget all the little brackets, wire looms, coolant lines and wires to the head under the intake, impossible to reach with the intake bolted in. Make sure all the special tools are off the motor and the TDC hole plug gets back. Bleeding the air from the cooling system is a snap if you leave the front up and the bleed screw out. Make sure the block drain plug is back in. This is not the only way to do this and being educated on the process before starting is very helpful. Sorry no pictures but look at the link above, they have very good pictures. Hope I hit most of the major points here and that it will help someone. I would budget 8-10 hrs for this if you have a very good tool set and have done a bit of motor work in the past. Have fun. --Bill 96 M3 (quiet and not eating coolant now)
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#9. Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 11:23:03 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice On Wed, April 6, 2005 9:59 am, Thomas Philip said: >> still being p*ssed at Kumho for claiming the Ecsta V700 was a >> useable tire :-)) > > Do you mean the V710, No, I meant what I wrote :-) > or is / was there an issue with the Ecsta V700? Umm, yeah, there was an "issue". Short version: These tires were (are?) big stinking piles of dog sh*t! Long story: Check this thread: <http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38342&page=1&pp=25&highlight=kumho> The pix I posted aren't there (I've moved to a new hosting company since then). If I remember, I'll re-post them tonight. Cheers, Jim Bassett - I'm over it, honest (well, mostly :-)) 1998 M3/4 - *lots* of time on RA-1s 1993 325is #44 JP - likes RA-1s and VRs, Hoosiers next?
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#10. Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice - from Thomas Philip
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 14:45:57 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <tphilip@omtay.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] R compounds advice On Apr 6, 2005, at 2:23 PM, Jim Bassett wrote: > On Wed, April 6, 2005 9:59 am, Thomas Philip said: >>> still being p*ssed at Kumho for claiming the Ecsta V700 was a >>> useable tire :-)) >> >> Do you mean the V710, > > No, I meant what I wrote :-) Ah, thanks for the clarification. I thought you were referring to the V710 release / withdrawal / re-release fiasco. >> or is / was there an issue with the Ecsta V700? > > Umm, yeah, there was an "issue". > Short version: These tires were (are?) big stinking piles of dog sh*t! > Long story: Check this thread: > <http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php? > t=38342&page=1&pp=25&highlight=kumho> > The pix I posted aren't there (I've moved to a new hosting company > since > then). If I remember, I'll re-post them tonight. Thanks, i'd like to see 'em. My buddy and I have both used 'em on and off, although I think we're both on Victoracers right now. I notice the post you pointed to referenced tires on the K6A rubber. Anyone had issues with the K8A compound? tom