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#1. Re: [E36M3] bleeding brakes - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 14:49:41 -0400 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] bleeding brakes Because the GVC club requires changing fluid within 60 days of the event regardless of the type of fluid. If I do a May/Sept have to change to meet the tech inspection. If I do a Sept/Oct then don't have to.and then I drive the rest of the year on that fluid. Currently Motul racing fluid is not an option with Genesee Valley. Carey Gerry Low wrote: >Carey, >Why don't you put in a 600 spec brake fluid like Motul 600 or AP Racing 600 >and change your fluid only once a year? >Gerry > > >Carey wrote: >I agree but switch between ATE Blue and Gold each time becuase it is >much easier to see the change in color. > >If you do this frequently, in my case 2-3 times a year, the brake fluid >doesn't get dirty enough to see the change using the same color. > > > >-- >No virus found in this outgoing message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 4/7/2005 > > > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] bleeding brakes - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 15:19:26 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] bleeding brakes Hans sez: >Kent, > >The Bentley manual says don't do it...the dealer uses a setup called >"Modic"...but 100s of folks do it routinely ...without any problems. > >Hans The Modic is the computer they use to activate the ABS pistons (which are also the traction control pistons).. but how do they move fluid through the system? I can't imagine they have one tech in the car pumping the brakes. I'd have to hazard the guess that they use pressure or vacuum.. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#3. RE: [E36M3] 3.0 v. 3.2 oil capacities??? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 16:06:24 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 3.0 v. 3.2 oil capacities??? When I was tracking and auto-x'ing my car, I used 8 qts. -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Bassett > > At 05:56 AM 4/8/2005, Lee Piccione wrote: > >Anyone know the logic/reason why the 3.0 has 7 qts of > >oil versus the 6 qts in the 3.2? > > No reason at all, since my 3.2 takes almost 7 quarts to fill > to the MAX mark. > > :-) > > Jim Bassett >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] bleeding brakes (more than most need to know) - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 16:25:30 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <Jeremy.Conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] bleeding brakes (more than most need to know) ABS/TCS systems have valves and pumps. Our beloved E36M3 has Teves mkIV systems. The regular E36 switch to the Teves mk20 system for (I'm assuming) cost/packaging reasons. The advantage to the mkIV is in the ability for wheel locking pressure to be dropped to near atmospheric (near 1 bar) in an ABS event. This helps with ABS events on extremely low-mu (low-friction) surfaces such as glare-ice. The main disadvantage to the mkIV is the complexity and size. The mk20 units use a spring piston accumulator to capture the fluid that is removed from the wheel cylinders during ABS events. This spring and piston seals can combine for as much as 5-6 times atmospheric pressure and thus can slow the recovery of a wheel on icy surfaces. Generally though, this is an acceptable (and quite capable) design solution. The 95 has 3-channel ABS only. The 96 (not sure about some bastard M3s out there, "Hi Neil") and newer have 4-channel ABS/TCS. Our cars are atypical for passenger cars in that the front suspension/steering geometry dictates that we use a front/rear split to the brake hydraulic circuit. Typical passenger cars use a diagonal split to the circuits (1 front & the opposite rear on a circuit). The system is split so that there is some redundancy to the brake system in the event of a partial failure. The fill and bleed procedures may vary for every combination of OEM and ABS supplier; however, the empty units are typically vacuum filled from empty. The air is evacuated from the brake system and then fluid is allowed to fill the space. Vacuum filling essentially cannot be done once fluid has been introduced into the system as fluids are essentially not compressible / expandable. To answer Don's question about moving fluid through the ABS unit: It has a pump for each circuit and therefore can move fluid if the valves are opened properly and the pump is energized. So, the MODIC tool is programmed to open the set of normally closed valves AND run the pump to move the fluid through the system. I don't have the specific timings at hand, but this is the general idea. The service technician would use a pressurized fluid system and the MODIC tool to properly complete a full bleed in the shop. Now to complete a full bleed for a DIYer, one should manually bleed the brakes in the conventional fashion. Start with the wheel that is farthest from the master cylinder and work back to the closest. Then drive the car and enter a 4-wheel ABS event to ensure that fluid is cycled in all parts of the ABS module. This will move the old fluid through the unit and replace it with new fluid. Then one could complete another full manual bleed. This may be a little overkill as if you drive the car aggressively you will be having some ABS/TCS interventions naturally and the fluid will be cycled at this time. In my opinion, a full bleed / cycle valves / full bleed is unnecessary as you are reaching a point of diminishing returns (especially for those of you that change the fluid every few months). Obviously if you wait years to change the brake fluid, the full aforementioned cycle should be completed to get all the old/bad fluid out. YMMV. If I missed anything or anybody wants more detail, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer. Jeremy 97 M3 // // The Modic is the computer they use to activate the ABS pistons // (which are also the traction control pistons).. but how do they // move fluid through the system? I can't imagine they have one // tech in the car pumping the brakes. // // I'd have to hazard the guess that they use pressure or vacuum.. //
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#5. Re: R compounds advice - from Carl Stern
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Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 15:07:24 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: R compounds advice Thanks all for the replies. Looks like the RA1 is pretty well liked, I'm going to go with it. Now my remaining decisions are how much to shave if any, whether I should use my 7.5" wheels that I have always used or upgrade to wider, and whether to get them from Frisby, BMWwheels, or someone else. I'm think of shaving 2/32 off. Don't you wish you could save that rubber and put it back on later? Carl
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 14:24:08 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice On Apr 8, 2005, at 2:16 PM, Carl Stern wrote: > Thanks all for the replies. Looks like the RA1 is pretty well liked, > I'm > going to go with it. Now my remaining decisions are how much to shave > if any, > whether I should use my 7.5" wheels that I have always used or upgrade > to wider, > and whether to get them from Frisby, BMWwheels, or someone else. > > I'm think of shaving 2/32 off. Don't you wish you could save that > rubber and > put it back on later? You'll lose that much off of them after your first track day. I wouldn't bother with the shaving. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice - from Walter J
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Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 18:13:55 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: R compounds advice Mine are just fine on the stock 7.5" wheels, they would be better on my 8.5" set but last seasons are not completely dead yet :( Shaving them to 4/32nds removes the ultra-greasy 1st day, helps prevent them from chunking from heat and leaves just enough that you get a wet day or three out of them. Their lives are not really cut short - not shaving them is probably riskier in this regard - chunking/separation is instant death... but I do know people who just run 'em out of the box and there has been no crying that I know of. If it was going to be very hot I'd be more concerned about it. I'm just paranoid and always have them shaved. -- Walter
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#8. Diagnosing Bad Clutch Slave - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 15:18:54 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Diagnosing Bad Clutch Slave Ok, it's a beautiful day out and I've been driving the M3 around. Been noticing a "hot brake" smell but nothing seems to be dragging. Just pulling back into the drive way and when pulling into the drive way slow while in 1st gear, the car clutch seems very choppy and the car is shaking a bit. Then the clutch pedal feel goes very easy and while sitting in the drive, car in 1st gear, clutch "in", the car shudders to a stop. Start the car up again, drive around the block. In first gear, accelerate hard and no clutch slippage so I don't think it's the clutch. Pull up to a stop sign with the car in neutral, try to put into first gear and it's very hard to get into gear. Shove it in gear and it goes, but as I'm coasting down the hill and into the garage, I'm thinking that "hot brake" smell is more - that's my clutch smell. My first thought is a bad/failing clutch slave cylinder as I experienced this with my 88 e30 M3. The car I'm having a problem with is a 95 e36 M3 with 121,000 miles. I checked the brake fluid level, and the fluid level is above the full mark and almost ready to over flow. My thought is that one of the seal in the clutch slave has allowed the fluid to pass by it, giving me the "easy" pedal feel, not completely allowing the clutch to disengage and slipping the clutch while the car is in gear and at a stop. But how do I go about actually nailing down what part it is that has gone bad? Thoughts anyone? Thanks, Dave A 95 ///M3 "with a burning clutch smell"
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Diagnosing Bad Clutch Slave - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:23:10 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diagnosing Bad Clutch Slave When's the last time you bled the clutch? I would start by doing that; just filling the reservoir isn't enough. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#10. Need a part number... - from Lee Piccione
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Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:09:14 -0400 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Need a part number... Gruppe, I'm look for the part number for the plastic mounting clip that holds both rubber fuel lines to the oil dipstick/bracket under the intake manifold... Thanks, Lee '95 M3 Violet