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#1. RE: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 12:15:53 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap I have done a similar feat using needle nose pliers. Just put the ends of the pliers down into the voids produced by the flutes and back out the broken tap. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Halperin [mailto:hhhalperin@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 11:47 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 09:39:24 -0700 From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap Try this, http://www.newmantools.com/walton.htm HTH, Glenn Halperin > Subject: Extracting a broken tap > > Was it posted before? Well, Wayne has a broken tap in his car. It's a M10x1.5 > so it's rather large. Any ideas of removing it? It broke under the surface, > btw and no methods of using a dremel, etc have made a dent in the hardened > steel. > > TIA, > Chester > > *************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] bleeding brakes (more than most need to know) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 10:35:26 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] bleeding brakes (more than most need to know) On Fri, April 8, 2005 1:26 pm, Jeremy Conners said: > If I missed anything or anybody wants more detail, feel free to ask and > I'll > try to answer. That was a very informative post. Thanks Jeremy! Jim Bassett - mostly recovered from Willow Springs :-)
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:36:27 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap Chester and I tried everything and nothing made much, if any, of a dent in the broken tap. The flute holes are too small to fit a needle nose pliers in but I did try using some nails and they bent immediately. I tried the super-duper hardest drill bits that I could find and they made no difference. I tried all kinds of different dremel tips and they did just about nothing. I have at 3 different kinds of screw extractors but they all need a hole to start with and I can't make that hole. I ended up ordering the Walton tap extractor set that someone pointed out. Thanks for the advice and I will let everyone know how it works, -Wayne
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#4. HIR Bulbs revisited - from Jim Powell
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 10:43:13 -0700 From: "Jim Powell" <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: HIR Bulbs revisited I have the initial samples of the HIR bulbs socketed in 9006 and 9005. I am waiting on the factory to set up these bulbs against a standard OSRAM 9006/9005 and shoot the beam pattern for me. This became such a big deal that I want my own test results to show that this is the real thing. More when I know it. Additionally, these bulbs are illegal to sell in the USA per the NHTSA. So they will all be shipped to Canada and you guys can get them from one of my dealers there for cheap-cheap. They'll be in South America and Mexico also if you want to pick them up on vacation :-) Jim
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:03:42 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap Hi, If all else fails - cobalt drill bits. Not just the cobalt tipped, but full cobalt. I've extracted a broken extractor that was broken in a stainless bolt. (ouch!) Don't ask. Kent Wayne Miller wrote: >Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:36:27 -0400 >From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Extracting a broken tap > >Chester and I tried everything and nothing made much, if any, of a dent in >the broken tap. The flute holes are too small to fit a needle nose pliers in >but I did try using some nails and they bent immediately. I tried the >super-duper hardest drill bits that I could find and they made no >difference. I tried all kinds of different dremel tips and they did just >about nothing. I have at 3 different kinds of screw extractors but they all >need a hole to start with and I can't make that hole. I ended up ordering >the Walton tap extractor set that someone pointed out. > >Thanks for the advice and I will let everyone know how it works, > >-Wayne > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#6. RE: Extracting a broken tap - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 14:40:10 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Extracting a broken tap Chester asked: >Was it posted before? Well, Wayne has a broken tap in his car. It's a >M10x1.5 >so it's rather large. Any ideas of removing it? It broke under the surface, >btw and no methods of using a dremel, etc have made a dent in the hardened >steel. > >TIA, >Chester OUCH! I hate when that happens. Ways I've seen tried (and sometimes - nothing much works..): 1. Tap extractor - they actually make these things. They have 3 or 4 pin.tine sorta things that extend down out of them to go into the flutes of the tap allowing you to back it out.. plenty of Kroil helps this along (tapping lubricant.) I see Glenn pointed you to a vendor. These do work fairly well if it wasn't something like the tap bottoming out in a hole. 2. EDM - electrical discharge machining. Probably not too easy if the part the tap is broken in is in or part of the car. They EDM out the inside of the tap and then shatter it with some taps to the remaining shell. 3. Acid - I seem to remember doing this myself once with a tap stuck in aluminum. I vaguely remember using full strength nitric acid (nasty nasty stuff.. read all about preventing acid injuries before even thinking of doing this..) Technique was - drip acid into the hole, watch it fizz. When it stops fizzing, rinse hole out with water (eye protection is gonna be assumed here), blow it dry, then redo until the tap is loose enough to grab with a needlenose and turn out. IIRC - the nitric acid has a greater effect on the steel of the tap than the aluminum.. but I'd suggest doing some experimenting with this theory first. 4. Replace piece... that's when 1, 2 and 3 failed.. but it wasn't something like an engine. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Extracting a broken tap - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 14:59:43 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Extracting a broken tap > 4. Replace piece... that's when 1, 2 and 3 failed.. but it wasn't something like an engine. In this case it is the entire rear sub frame so I was trying to avoid taking it out. Everything has to be done from underneath the car. -Wayne
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#8. FS: Set of M-Contour four 7.5"s - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:54:07 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: FS: Set of M-Contour four 7.5"s I have been using four M-Contour 17x7.5 wheels for the limited winter use my M3 sees. I am going to limit the winter use even more in the future, so am ready to sell the wheels with the Bridgestone winter radials 225/45 tires on them. The tires probably have a limited year of winter use left in them. The wheels all have some curb rash on them. Anyone want to make me an offer for the set, before I put them on ebay? Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#9. Re: Exhaust shield rattle - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:06:57 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Exhaust shield rattle on 4/11/05 12:06 PM, david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> wrote: > Anyone have a definitive solution for fixing this? Tack weld shield to cat housing in multiple places. Helps if person welding has superior welding skills to mine. <g> Problem removing the heat shield is that, well, then you have no heat shield! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Delay Valve - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:31:48 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch Delay Valve On Sun, April 10, 2005 11:26 pm, Andy Radin said: > more fuel for the fire: > > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm > > Can't personally verify or deny this, just remembered seeing this page a > while back... I, however, can personally verify that my M3 DOES have a CDV. FYI, Jim Bassett - slowly getting caught up on the weekend's email 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP