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#1. quick tire question - from m3 drvr
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Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 15:06:37 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <m3bro@hotmail.com> Subject: quick tire question I am on th edge of buying new summer tires and what to get some of the lists opinions: (max perf. category) Bridgestone Potenza S-03 PP Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Kumho ECSTA MX lastly the Yokohama AVS ES100 (ultra high perf. category) (these are cheap) FYI - Tire Rack is offering a $100 off a purchase of four for most Bridgestone models. This does make the Pole Positions look more attractive but I already have them and was thinking of being adventurous. TIA Clyde 98 M3/4
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#2. Re: Soft steering... - from Som Naderi
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Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:39:39 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Re: Soft steering... Zachary, I got the alignment done when I put new tires on. I had the problem for about 1 or 2 k before the new tires, and have had the problem for about 1 or 2k after the new tires/alignment. Thanks for the idea, though... it's one more thing to add to the list of what the problem *isn't*... * Not the tires... :) Here's a question... could worn control arm bushings cause this problem? I wouldn't think so because it seems they only control up/down movements. I was wondering if maybe the bushings on the KMac C/C plates had gone soft... which would explain why things were stiff after the first week or two after the suspension install. Maybe something with the plates/bushings has gone loose and is moving/flexing too much? I don't know how this would affect the steering only, though, considering I had the front end aligned twice within a month of each other -- once after the tires, then again after I put the new tie rods on. The camber/castor hadn't changed and I would imagine if there was much movement from the plates then I would have major alignment issues after a month. This is driving me nuts (no pun intended)... Anyone live in the San Diego (Del Mar) area and want to come by this weekend and drive my car (and maybe let me take their's around the block)? I've been driving it for more than 5 months like this and I'm starting to get those thoughts -- maybe the car is fine and it's *supposed* to feel like this. - Som >--- Som Naderi <som@dimensionracing.com> wrote: >> What else could it be??? >> >> * Not power steering fluid... >> * Not the tie rods... >> * Not the castor... > >just a hunch -- could the change in alignment which >would then change the contact patch of the tire be the >culprit? > >on every car i've had, when i put new tires on, the >steering feels much lighter for a time. of course, >there is "stuff" on new tires that may contribute to >this, but there is also a difference between the shape >of the tires when they're new and when they're "broken >in" to the particular geometry of the suspension. > >there is a similar situation in play here, just with >tires worn one "way" that are then put in a different >(alignment) situation. > >-zs
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#3. [E36M3] Soft steering... - from Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)
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Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 16:42:18 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: [E36M3] Soft steering... Som, Something that has not been mentioned yet is the Power Steering pump output. Seems to me I recall some sort of pressure relief/regulation built into the system that usually fails by not giving enough Power Steering effort. Perhaps yours is sticking in the over Power Steering mode. Just a thought.... Alex 98 M3/4 74k NJ Chapter BMW CCA -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 14:52:30 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soft steering... Jay, My castor is in the 6 degree range... I just don't remember exactly where. I want to say around the 6.2-6.3 area. If 6.6 degrees isn't causing you problems, then I can't imagine 0.4 degrees less would cause this overly squishy feel. What else could it be??? * Not power steering fluid... * Not the tie rods... * Not the castor... I checked the steering rack bolts and they were quite tight. Also (as I mentioned in the other post) there wasn't any freeplay between the rack/pinion, so... * Not (likely) the steering rack... I thought *maybe* it was the ride height on the coilovers. I had them set to practically the lowest setting up until a couple days ago. I thought maybe the struts didn't have enough travel and maybe the car was riding the springs too much (which would explain the sloppy feel of the car... which I'm attributing to whatever this problem is with the steering). I raised the front height about 5/8" and the problem hasn't changed. So... * Not the ride height... What else affects the steering?? As for Thunderhill, my car is white and it'll be number "00". I'll be working on the safety truck when I'm not driving, and we usually stage around the med-building... so look for me there. :) I REALLY hope to have this problem fixed by then... - Som - Wants his steering back! On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 05:17:37 -0700, Jay W. Hudson wrote > Som- > > Less castor will make the steering easier. IMO, the GC plates are > worth the $$$. Although you still may not be able to get to a > factory castor number. I have mine maxed at 6.6 degrees. Doesn't > cause me any problems. > > I'll be out there Sat, 5/14. Gunna visit with some of the CR guys. > Maybe I'll get to meet you. Car color and number? > > Jay > > > I've got the K-Mac plates, which I really don't like. With these plates I > can only get the castor to about 6-something degrees (with the > camber in spec) -- about a full degree (I believe) short of spec. > Could that 1 degree make *that* much of a difference? Should I have > just spent the extra 100 on the GC plates? > > > > I seem to remember the steering was very stiff when I first put the > suspension on. Then after a couple weeks it started going soft, > which is when I finally went to get it aligned, hoping that was the > problem -- I don't think it was. > > > > Any other possibilities? Can anyone else confirm that PS bubbles are a > non-issue? > > > > I'll actually be up for the NASA event that weekend (14/15) -- I'll be > *just* missing you. :-/ > > > > - Som - Still Squishy Steering M3 > > > > > > > > ________________ Reply Header ________________ > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Soft steering... > > Author: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> > > Date: 13th April 2005 5:43:12 am > > > > Som- > > > > Do you have adjustable castor/camber plates? A change in castor will make > > the steering feel easier or harder, depending on the change. > > > > Other alignment changes may also affect the steering feel. > > > > Did the changes occur right after you installed the c/os? > > > > I'm not sure, but I think air in the PS system would resolve itself > because > > it's a circulating, non-sealed system. > > > > Are you attending the TrackMasters event on 5/13? I'll be there. > > > > Jay > > > > > > > Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 22:14:03 -0800 > > > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > > > Subject: Soft steering... > > > > > > Group, > > > > > > I'm having a problem with my steering feeling excessively "light". I > > > installed H&R coilovers a few k miles ago, had an alignment done, same > > > feeling. Installed new tie rods (had it aligned again), which fixed > some > > > other problems I was having, but still the soft steering. > > > > > > I'm curious... could air bubbles in the power steering fluid cause this > > > problem? It kind of feels like the squishy feeling that brakes get when > > the > > > are air bubbles in the break line. Is it possible a PS flush would fix > > this > > > problem? If so, what special equipment would I need to do it myself? > > I've > > > replaced the trombone-to-reservoir hose, so I would imagine all I'd have > > to > > > do is disconnect the hose (I replaced the factory crimp with a worm > > clamp), > > > turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, reattach the clamp, fill, > > lock-to-lock, > > > fill, etc. Anything else? > > > > > > What would be the other likely culprits? I thought maybe a worn > > rack/pinion > > > would cause the "light" steering... but without the car moving, even > > *tiny* > > > steering movement moves the tires. > > > > > > Thanks for the help! I'm planning on driving up to Thunderhill mid-May > > > (which will be my first track event with the new suspension) and I want > to > > > get rid of this "squishy" steering feel! > > > > > > - Som > > > > > > >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] quick tire question - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 14:40:04 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] quick tire question For what it's worth, the new Pilot Sport 2s are a great summer tire. After a few sets of the S03s, the PS2s are my new favorite street tire. Not as harsh-feeling as the S03s, absolutely phenomenal in the wet and they perform incredibly well (with correct air pressure) on track when you're too lazy to change to your track wheels. ;) My personal take is that they out perform the S03s in every aspect. Of course, YMMV. =) Jonathan L. ----Original Message Follows---- From: m3bro@hotmail.com I am on th edge of buying new summer tires and what to get some of the lists opinions: (max perf. category) Bridgestone Potenza S-03 PP Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Kumho ECSTA MX lastly the Yokohama AVS ES100 (ultra high perf. category) (these are cheap) FYI - Tire Rack is offering a $100 off a purchase of four for most Bridgestone models. This does make the Pole Positions look more attractive but I already have them and was thinking of being adventurous. TIA Clyde 98 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Adjust rear Camber / Toe? - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 09:01:47 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Adjust rear Camber / Toe? Dear Group, Hello, I was using the Fastrax guage on my e36, and realized that the camber on my rear passenger side is a LOT more negative than the driver side.. I looked in the Bentley manual, and it does not say how to adjust it.. Is it done by adjusting the little bolts that have the scale on them on the lower control arms? or is that for Toe? Thanks Mo 98 m3/4
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Adjust rear Camber / Toe? - from Tim Williams
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 16:39:44 -0400 From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Adjust rear Camber / Toe? I had this problem also. There is one bolt that I think you've found. It has an eccentric and after it is loosened, you should be able to see the effect. In my Bentley, on p. 330-10, fig. 18, its not the lower shock bolt marked by the arrow, but the bolt that secures the lower control arm, just above the jack plate. Good luck. FWIW, I have a 95 with stock springs/bilsteins and ended up with 2deg each side. > -----Original Message----- > From: Mo Karamat [mailto:karamatm@optonline.net] > Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 9:07 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Adjust rear Camber / Toe? > > > Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 09:01:47 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: Adjust rear Camber / Toe? > > Dear Group, > > Hello, I was using the Fastrax guage on my e36, and > realized that the > camber on my rear passenger side is a LOT more negative than > the driver > side.. I looked in the Bentley manual, and it does not say > how to adjust > it.. Is it done by adjusting the little bolts that have the > scale on them on > the lower control arms? or is that for Toe? > > Thanks > Mo > 98 m3/4 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Adjust rear Camber / Toe? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 13:51:00 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Adjust rear Camber / Toe? Mo, The outer lower control arm bolt (with the scale) can be rotated to adjust camber. When you change the camber, the toe will change some also. More camber will add more toe. The toe is adjusted by the 3 bolts holding on the trailing arm bracket to the body of the car. These are at the front of the trailing arm. It's easy to adjust the toe, but a real pain to get correct, since there aren't any markings to guide you. So I make some ahead of time with a pencil. Careful not to let the bracket move as you snug the 3 bolts. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 09:01:47 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: Adjust rear Camber / Toe? > > Dear Group, > > Hello, I was using the Fastrax guage on my e36, and realized that the > camber on my rear passenger side is a LOT more negative than the driver > side.. I looked in the Bentley manual, and it does not say how to adjust > it.. Is it done by adjusting the little bolts that have the scale on them > on > the lower control arms? or is that for Toe? > > Thanks > Mo > 98 m3/4 >
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#8. Notchy shifter - from j. helffrich
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 17:49:08 -0700 (PDT) From: "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> Subject: Notchy shifter Hi All, I know a lot of people have complained about the notchy shifter problem in M3s in the past, but I have never seen a resolution of the problem. Does anyone know how to fix this? I have tried changing to Redline and putting in a short shift kit, but sometimes I have to really force my '97 M3 into first from neutral. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jerry Jerry Helffrich __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Notchy shifter - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 19:47:50 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Notchy shifter Jerry, It doesn't work for everyone, but I switched from RedLine to Royal Purple Syncromax fluid on my 97, and the notchy first gear went away. Some have success with RedLine, some like me with Royal Purple. It's a finicky tranny for sure. Give it a shot and let us know how it works. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 17:49:08 -0700 (PDT) > From: "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> > Subject: Notchy shifter > > Hi All, > I know a lot of people have complained about the > notchy shifter problem in M3s in the past, but I have > never seen a resolution of the problem. Does anyone > know how to fix this? I have tried changing to > Redline and putting in a short shift kit, but > sometimes I have to really force my '97 M3 into first > from neutral. Any suggestions?
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Notchy shifter - from Gerry
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Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 22:57:57 -0400 From: Gerry <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Notchy shifter Jerry, Check to make sure that your tranny mounts, engine mounts and front sub frame are 100%. Any damages will cause a misalignment of the transmission and will make shifting into some gears difficult. Gerry "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hi All, > I know a lot of people have complained about the > notchy shifter problem in M3s in the past, but I have > never seen a resolution of the problem. Does anyone > know how to fix this? I have tried changing to > Redline and putting in a short shift kit, but > sometimes I have to really force my '97 M3 into first > from neutral. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Jerry