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#1. Re: [E36M3] quick tire question - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:24:29 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] quick tire question I had the Pilot MXX3s at one point, but never had the old Pilot Sports, so I can't really compare those two particular tires. At this point, I don't hear any tires on my car because of the exhaust. They're much quiter cornering on track than the MXX3s were, and don't make any noise really if the pressures are set well. Road noise, however, I can't give feedback on. Jonathan L. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dave Swingle Subject: Re: [E36M3] quick tire question How do they compare with the old Pilot Sports? Specifically are they any quieter? The Pilots on my 99 M3 are the noisiest tire I've ever had on any car. Dave S. -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 14:40:04 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] quick tire question For what it's worth, the new Pilot Sport 2s are a great summer tire. After a few sets of the S03s, the PS2s are my new favorite street tire. Not as harsh-feeling as the S03s, absolutely phenomenal in the wet and they perform incredibly well (with correct air pressure) on track when you're too lazy to change to your track wheels. ;) My personal take is that they out perform the S03s in every aspect. Of course, YMMV. =) Jonathan L.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 10:51:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator on 4/18/05 9:18 AM, Hans Batra at hansbatra@yahoo.com wrote: > What brand/model alumuninum radiator do you have? What are your thoughts on > the Fluidyne (perhaps that's what you have)? I have a PWR that's no longer offered in this form due to multiple fitment issues. However I like it since it's unusually thick, due to an extra row. This drops oil temp on track by about 20 degrees. The stock fan runs too close, so you either have to use the thinner Euro 325td fan or else delete the fan altogether. I deleted it. The Fluidyne is undoubtedly good, but it runs a rather stiff $650 or so. A better value at $459 is the drop-in Zionsville unit, see: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=6134 &Product_Code=NP-ALLOYRAD&Category_Code=AR1 Everybody I know who's bought this one says it drops right in and fits perfectly. Or they now have a $525 high capacity version: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=6134 &Product_Code=NP-ALLOYRADZ3&Category_Code=AR1 This one would be my choice for a track car. See also this page: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=6134 &Category_Code=AR1 for various package/parts options. The economy solution for a high mileage car could be a new stock rad ($150 mail order), which might well last the remaining life of the car, especially with street use only. There's also a stock high capacity option using the 3-row S54 M Coupe part. This doesn't seem to me like a great option, since if you need the extra cooling it's probably for track use, and in that case an all-metal part is worth the extra money. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#3. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Walter J
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:09:22 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator >There's also a stock high capacity option using the 3-row S54 M Coupe part. >This doesn't seem to me like a great option, since if you need the extra >cooling it's probably for track use, and in that case an all-metal part is >worth the extra money. > > > I'm not so sure about that logic... the all aluminum 2 row radiator is more than 2x the cost of the S54 3 row radiator and a couple lbs heavier. You get extra capacity and can keep a spare handy and still save $. Its not like we are talking about a part that fails often - you just have to lay eyeballs on it during a normal tech of the car to make sure its not getting brittle. The factory units are good for at least 2yrs (my original lasted 6yrs and never failed... with a pretty heavy dose of track use in there) The aluminum does look cooler though ;)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RA-1 Pressures? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:17:17 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RA-1 Pressures? On Sun, April 17, 2005 7:26 am, Jay W. Hudson said: > I just got back from a DE with TrackMasters (left coast) on Friday. I > found > that 40f/38r were the best hot pressures for me. I'll second what Jay recommended - 38-40psi hot. That's what I found to work the best on both the street M3 and the 325is. 235/45/17 RA-1s in both cases. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP
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#5. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 11:40:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator on 4/18/05 11:09 AM, Walter J at m3gtr@adelphia.net wrote: > I'm not so sure about that logic... the all aluminum 2 row radiator is > more than 2x the cost of the S54 3 row radiator and a couple lbs > heavier. You get extra capacity and can keep a spare handy and still > save $. Its not like we are talking about a part that fails often - you > just have to lay eyeballs on it during a normal tech of the car to make > sure its not getting brittle. I'd feel much better about that option if I thought anyone had demonstrated the ability to tell when the plastic neck is getting brittle prior to actual failure. Perhaps a reasonable option, at least for a dedicated racecar, might simply be to replace the stock rad on some defined schedule? BTW I forgot to mention the theory that worn motor mounts may contribute to rad neck breakage by allowing the engine to rock too much and pull on the fragile neck via the top hose. Hard to prove, but sounds reasonable. > The factory units are good for at least 2yrs (my original lasted 6yrs and > never failed... with a pretty heavy dose of track use in there) A related issue is that rad failure and the consequent overheating is likely to increase your risk for one of the other well known E36 M3 issues: expensive head gasket failure. I made the decision to replace the rad pre-emptively; obviously everyone has to decide their level of risk tolerance for themselves. For me it was worth it to spend the extra to kill the problem dead. I had no desire to revisit the rad issue, and if I had to do it over again I'd make the same decision (except using the Zionsville part, which wasn't available at the time). The reduction in oil temp turned out to be an unexpected bonus. > The aluminum does look cooler though ;) Damn straight! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#6. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:51:18 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator Re: > >A related issue is that rad failure and the consequent overheating is likely >to increase your risk for one of the other well known E36 M3 issues: >expensive head gasket failure. I replaced my radiator preemptively ... then my head gasket blew! :) -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:53:17 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator At 9:51 AM -0700 4/18/05, Andrew Kalman wrote: >Re: > >> >>A related issue is that rad failure and the consequent overheating is likely >>to increase your risk for one of the other well known E36 M3 issues: >>expensive head gasket failure. > >I replaced my radiator preemptively ... then my head gasket blew! :) > Forgot to mention -- then my E12 530i's clutch blew ... then my 2003 Mazda MPV's tranny blew. Coincidence? I think not! E36M3 radiators are _clearly_ at fault in all three cases here. F@#$%^& semi-plastic radiators! -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Jay G
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:48:59 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator i checked my radiator neck before every track/autocross event, and at least monthly...it gave way on me all of a sudden while autoxing...no signs if cracking/coolant dripping, nothing...the stock unit did last 7 years though...for the neck breakage on mine though, the neck didnt snap at the base, it snapped in the middle of the neck, leaving me with about 1.5" of neck still attached to the plastic end tank; this allowed me to get the upper hose back on and limp the car back home... i'm with you neil, kill the problem...i also put in a aluminum zionsville unit...and yes, the aluminum sure is pretty... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > I'd feel much better about that option if I thought anyone had > demonstrated > the ability to tell when the plastic neck is getting brittle prior to > actual > failure. Perhaps a reasonable option, at least for a dedicated racecar, > might simply be to replace the stock rad on some defined schedule?
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#9. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:15:25 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator On Apr 18, 2005, at 11:56 AM, Jay G wrote: > i checked my radiator neck before every track/autocross event, and at > least monthly...it gave way on me all of a sudden while autoxing...no > signs if cracking/coolant dripping, nothing...the stock unit did last > 7 years though...for the neck breakage on mine though, the neck didnt > snap at the base, it snapped in the middle of the neck, leaving me > with about 1.5" of neck still attached to the plastic end tank; this > allowed me to get the upper hose back on and limp the car back home... > > i'm with you neil, kill the problem...i also put in a aluminum > zionsville unit...and yes, the aluminum sure is pretty... Guys, this is all really simple. On a street car, the OEM radiator is a 50K mile consumable item. Replace it. You'll be fine. On a race car, make it 25K miles. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#10. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:29:34 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator You can't see any degradation from the outside, it happens on the inside, if you pull the hose off you can actually feel the plastic getting soft, or cracking, on the inside of the neck. And it's not just an E36 problem. My 87 535 neck broke off almost in the same spot. The Aluminum is defiantly nice..Just the piece of mind knowing it will never fail like the plastic. And the bling bling factor The fluidnye looks pretty fly in the nose of mine! Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team