-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: RA-1 Pressures? - from Burgess, Kim L
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:58:01 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: RA-1 Pressures? Jim - How do you get'em that hot on the street;) "Jim Bassett" wrote: "I'll second what Jay recommended - 38-40psi hot. That's what I found to work the best on both the street M3 and the 325is. 235/45/17 RA-1s in both cases."
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: [E36M3] quick tire question - from Ron & Brenya B.
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:01:37 -0500 From: "Ron & Brenya B." <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] quick tire question Jonathan, How do the PS2s compare to the original Pilots, in dry conditions? I imagine that the PS2s are much better than the originals in the wet. I'm still using the original Pilot on the street, but when these wear out, I'll need to shop for something different. -rb Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 14:40:04 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] quick tire question For what it's worth, the new Pilot Sport 2s are a great summer tire. After a few sets of the S03s, the PS2s are my new favorite street tire. Not as harsh-feeling as the S03s, absolutely phenomenal in the wet and they perform incredibly well (with correct air pressure) on track when you're too lazy to change to your track wheels. ;) My personal take is that they out perform the S03s in every aspect. Of course, YMMV. =) Jonathan L.
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: RA-1 Pressures? - from Ron & Brenya B.
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:08:20 -0500 From: "Ron & Brenya B." <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RA-1 Pressures? Dave, For 235/40R17 RA1s, start with 32psi all around. Check tire pressures as soon as you get off the track, to determine hot pressures. You don't want the hot pressure to go above 40psi; otherwise, the tires will begin to feel greasy. If you're using another tire size, then these pressures may not apply, but would be a good starting place. I've generally noticed an 8psi pressure rise for the front tires, and a 6psi rise for the rear tires, using 235/40R17s. Much experience, but on a limited number of tracks. -rb Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:13:49 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RA-1 Pressures? Well, I have my new, shaved RA-1's mounted and ready for Trackmasters on Monday but I'm not sure about pressures. Anyone with RA-1 experience please help! Thanks, Dave Hogg
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Don Eilenberger
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:27:34 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator Gotta agree with Neil here.. >I'd feel much better about that option if I thought anyone had demonstrated >the ability to tell when the plastic neck is getting brittle prior to actual >failure. Perhaps a reasonable option, at least for a dedicated racecar, >might simply be to replace the stock rad on some defined schedule? What I'm planning on doing once other stuff stops breaking.. >BTW I forgot to mention the theory that worn motor mounts may contribute to >rad neck breakage by allowing the engine to rock too much and pull on the >fragile neck via the top hose. Hard to prove, but sounds reasonable. Actually very reasonable IMHO. In the E39 world (I run a list), this sort of failure is almost endemic on the V8 models, and almost unknown on the I6 models. I suspect the greater torque of the V8 causes more engine rotation, which hastens the end of the radiator neck. It would seem as if track use may also cause the failure faster due to higher stress on the engine mounts causing more engine rotation. With the pressure BMW uses on their cooling systems the hoses are quite rigid when fully pressurized - which makes them poor decouplers of movement without passing it along. I think BMW may have been thinking the same thing since the last design of the E39 radiators includes a coupling that goes into the radiator instead of the traditional neck - the coupling appears as if it would move a bit in relation to the radiator without failure. These haven't gotten quite old enough to be counted in the V8 radiator failure stats yet.. be interesting to see if it helps. >Neil ____D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ http://www.eilenberger.net
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator - from Kent L. Shephard
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 13:28:42 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator Hi, All BMWs with plastic radiator tanks are subject to this failure if the inlet/outlet is plastic. My E30 M3 failed the same way; elbow came off while changing a hose. Either assume you will be replacing it every couple of years or get an aluminum one. It is not rocket science. It's science, just not rocket. Kent GGray657@aol.com wrote: >Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 15:29:34 EDT >From: GGray657@aol.com >Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Infamous E36 Radiator > >You can't see any degradation from the outside, it happens on the inside, if >you pull the hose off you can actually feel the plastic getting soft, or >cracking, on the inside of the neck. > >And it's not just an E36 problem. My 87 535 neck broke off almost in the same >spot. > >The Aluminum is defiantly nice..Just the piece of mind knowing it will never >fail like the plastic. And the bling bling factor The fluidnye looks pretty >fly in the nose of mine! > >Gary Gray >Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] quick tire question - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 14:43:19 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] quick tire question Well, that's a bit of a tough call. Absolutely better in the wet. I think they even edge out the S03s for wet traction. As for the dry, the original Pilots were my 3rd set of tires on my car, and that was about when I was just sort of getting into the driving schools. I remember them being decent, but they screamed bloody murder on track. Of course, I could've had some fairly whacked out tire pressures, but at the time I definitely believed the BFG g-Force KDs were better in the dry, and I'd rank the new PS2s right up there with the KDs. Not a great comparison, but I'm pretty confident that these are better than the original Pilots in dry conditions. My favorite thing about the originals was the incredible turn in... I can't even compare that now, however, as I run almost -3.5 degrees camber in the front, so most tires turn in pretty well now. ;) Hopefully some sort of help, but probably not, Jonathan L. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Ron & Brenya B. Jonathan, How do the PS2s compare to the original Pilots, in dry conditions? I imagine that the PS2s are much better than the originals in the wet. I'm still using the original Pilot on the street, but when these wear out, I'll need to shop for something different. -rb
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. E36 M3 oxygen sensor replacement - from Reed Nicholson
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 17:06:00 -0700 From: "Reed Nicholson" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: E36 M3 oxygen sensor replacement My 98 M3 keeps throwing an E5 code, for the precat oxygen sensor response time. At 85,000 miles, I assume I should probably go ahead and replace both precat sensors. Is there anything tricky about this operation? Just screw the new ones in with some anti-seize? Reed/Seattle
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. carbon fiber? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 20:58:31 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: carbon fiber? Group, Does anyone know if Milos is still in business selling CF pieces for our cars? My old email address does not work for him. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. I'm getting discouraged.. - from Don Eilenberger
Top
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 00:12:22 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: I'm getting discouraged.. /small rant on One thing after another.. I've owned cars like this before (worst was the '65 Jag, followed by a VW.. go figure..) Due to forces beyond my control, I'm facing replacing the clutch master cylinder - the one up under the dash. The TIS is remarkably quiet on how to replace that particular part.. so - if anyone has done it, I have questions: 1. Do I have to disassemble the entire car? It looks like I would best be able to get to the connections to it by removing the electrical box which appears to be almost dead over these. 2. What sort of fit is the tube from the brake reservoir to the MC? It looks like on the reservoir it's simply a push on (no clamp I can see) - same thing on the other end at the MC? 3. What is the output fitting of the MC and where is it located. Feeling the old one under the dash, I don't feel nut flats where I'd expect to.. it almost looks like the nut/hard-line junction is in the engine compartment (why, or WHY did someone design it this way? It has to be for assembly.. install the cylinder and then build the rest of the car around it..) 4. What knucklehead designed the rear latch assembly on the relay/fuse box cover? Since there are wires in the way (the big ones next to the box) - the cover doesn't go on quite straight at first.. which broke off the idiotic plastic bar on the base of the fuse box that the cover fastens to.. the cover itself (which would be EASY to replace) is just fine. The expensive part sacrifices itself to protect the cheap and easily replaceable part. Dunderheads.. The next stage in this relationship is likely to be me getting really pissed at the car and starting to look for a new mistress BMW. BTDT. /rant off and off to bed.. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] DJ Auto Headlights - Huge Quality Turnaround - from Pedro Aceves
Top
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 00:57:31 -0600 From: Pedro Aceves <aceves@mac.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DJ Auto Headlights - Huge Quality Turnaround Jim: So do we have to wait for old stock to work it way out of retail channels or should these improved DJ Autos already be out and in stock ? Finally, Where do we get them ? Pedro. On Apr 15, 2005, at 11:36 AM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 09:30:35 -0700 > From: "Jim Powell" <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> > Subject: DJ Auto Headlights - Huge Quality Turnaround > > Gruppe, > > > > I had a customer bring in a set of DJ Auto headlights yesterday to get > some > bulbs. I was really surprised at the headlight. I had been told that > the > factory had freshened up the headlight and improved it. But WOW! > > > > I had not been a huge fan of this light before but I'm here to tell > you, it > is an entirely new story. DEPO is not really a choice anymore. This > headlight surpasses the DEPO. Really. And with the price of ZKWs > being > over the moon. I think this is the new choice. > > > > If you are in the market for ellipsoids, find somebody selling the DJ > Auto. > It's absolutely the best choice for the money. > > > > Jim