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#1. RE: [E36M3] RA-1 Pressures? - from dhogg
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:50:44 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RA-1 Pressures? Wow, this is a lot lower than I ran yesterday. I'll back it down a little next time. I shot for 44 lbs hot all around after 1-hour sessions chasing - and catching - a Ferrari Challenge car. I know, he has to have more wallet than skill, but boy there are some sweet sounds when you're tucked behind that thing! The Toyos felt balanced but "slidier" than I'm used to; they still have good tread all around after a tough day out. Very un-Hoosier like and 2 seconds a lap slower (could have been too much pressure?), BUT... I've gotta say that I learned some things about corner entry on my HOME TURF that I'd never picked up on before, because I had to get it RIGHT to get through the corner. And it was actually a lot of fun! The Hoos simply cover up an early or late turn-in and make me look halfway good. The RA-1 is a great DE/practice tire indeed! And if I may put a plug in for Trackmasters (east coast version), can you say FIVE HOURS of track time a day, plus skidpad? And if you want it, outstanding classroom instruction and several of the best BMW CCA on-track instructors teaching there as well. Good stuff. (No connection, etc. etc.) Dave Hogg > -----Original Message----- > From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] > Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 9:21 AM > To: dhogg; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RA-1 Pressures? > > Dave- > > I just got back from a DE with TrackMasters (left coast) on Friday. I > found > that 40f/38r were the best hot pressures for me. I have shaved 255/40-17 > RA-1s on 8.5" wheels. This was their 3rd track day and temps were taken > with a probe type pyrometer. > > Jay
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#2. RE: Front control arms - from Alan Leung
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:15:20 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Front control arms Do the regular E36 control arms with replaceable ball joints have the same geometry as those on the M cars except for the bushings? Has anyone tried using these on an M3? Alan 95 M3 -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 18:33:26 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms Bob, On the E30 M3 at Putnam the ball joint shaft sheared off right at the necked area at the base of the threads. Stress concentration area of course but I think this is the common area for this failure. It was an aluminum control arm that was roughly 2 years old...not sure of the number of track days, etc on it. It was not my car.
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#3. UUC: Light weight Flywheel - which clutch? - from dhogg
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:58:21 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: UUC: Light weight Flywheel - which clutch? Dave, The Rogue piece is very nice as well. I've had it in the street car for a year and really like it. Dave Hogg
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Front Control Arms - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:50:54 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front Control Arms A few specific questions: 1. How difficult is it to press the control arms on and off of the bushings once removed from the car? 2. It appears that everything just unbolts and then re-bolts into position, is there anything that changing a control arm would require a front end alignment? 3. What other parts should be changed for safety reasons while I'm doing this work? i.e. sway bars links, ties rod ends, new control arms bushings, etc? 4. Finally - Bavarian Auto says that they have a replacement part for the M3 sway bars that use a steel ball joint and cost $80 cheaper per arm than anywhere else I priced - has anyone had any experience with these parts? Seems a little too good to be true that I could pick these up for $100 opposed to the $180 everyone else charges. Thanks, Dave Arnold 95 //M3 -----Original Message----- From: KResener@aol.com [mailto:KResener@aol.com] Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 10:26 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Front Control Arms Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 10:21:25 EDT From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Front Control Arms I've recently been witness to two front control arm failures, one on an e36; and yesterday at Putnam, an e30. Neither was particularly pretty, and thankfully no one was injured in either incident, although it's easy to imagine how it could be pretty bad if a failure occurred at a higher speed area of the track. So it got me to thinking I should be replacing mine before I head back onto the track. What are people's recommendations for the parts, as well as any suggestions on the instructions for replacement? Is this a weekend job, or more involved? Thanks for any suggestions/guidance. Kurt Resener Louisville, KY '95 ///M3 ''01 X5 '97 Audi A6 Quattro Avant '75 Mercedes 280c ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. RE: I'm getting discouraged.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:56:56 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: I'm getting discouraged.. In which I answer my own questions just in case anyone is following.. :-) >Subject: I'm getting discouraged.. I feel better now - 5 miles, top down with a really NICE feeling clutch is a good thing. Over the weekend I got up close and personal with the clutch (Hi Chester!) - not on purpose.. and factors outside my control broke the clutch master cylinder. So.. the rest of the story: >1. Do I have to disassemble the entire car? It looks like >I would best be able to get to the connections to it by >removing the electrical box which appears to be almost >dead over these. Nope - you just disassemble most of the stuff under the dash on the drivers side. Once you get the damn clips off a few of the pins they're locking in - it isn't all THAT hard. Just don't plan on a shortcut - you want EVERYTHING you can get out of the way outta there (both switch brackets, the over-center spring thingie, the clutch-arm-pedal.. and of course the knee bolster.) >2. What sort of fit is the tube from the brake reservoir >to the MC? It looks like on the reservoir it's simply a >push on (no clamp I can see) - same thing on the other >end at the MC? > >3. What is the output fitting of the MC and where is it >located. Feeling the old one under the dash, I don't feel >nut flats where I'd expect to.. it almost looks like the >nut/hard-line junction is in the engine compartment (why, >or WHY did someone design it this way? It has to be >for assembly.. install the cylinder and then build the >rest of the car around it..) Ah - this is the clever bit. BOTH fittings are *inside* the car and super easy to release. They are snap together O ring sealed fittings that go right into the master cylinder. What you do need to get them apart is a hook with a very thin end to catch the tiny bit of clip that protrudes from the master-cylinder. I luckily had a screwdriver I'd modified decades ago as a brake-spring puller (back when men were men and brakes were drums..) - worked PERFECTLY for this job. Once everything is out of the way - the cylinder is disconnected, lots of brake fluid gooshes out. I was prepared for it - lots of newspaper over the carpeting, a big old towel over the newspaper and a small pot to catch it in. Worked OK, didn't soak the carpeting with fluid. Getting the pedal-arm off is a bit of a challenge. BMW uses locking clips to hold things together. They require you to both release the lock AND push on them at the same time. The pedal pivot point is WAY up by the top of the dash and there was no room behind it due to some sound-deadening material pressing right against it. This was the hardest part of the job. Once I got it off - a razor knife cut out a nice square of the sound-deadening stuff, giving a good 1/2" now behind the pin to work with for reassembly. Since I was in there - I installed a set of UUC pedal bushings. Fit right in, and were a nice snug fit to the pin the pedal rides on. No slop at ALL, and a nice smooth action. The old bushings were noticeably worn. Anyway - new master-cylinder in, filled reservoir with fluid, pumped the pedal 200 times or so and I have full clutch again.. It feels very nice without the CDV (which was the goal of the whole project, which evolved into a disaster..) Cost of the new master-cylinder - $65 w/free shipping, had it in one day from a place in NJ. The UUC pedal bushings (highly recommended ) - $20 w/free shipping, also had in one day (Rob is in NJ..) The cylinder was made by FTE, who made the one that came out and had the same identical FTE PN, and logo, although neither one had a BMW roundel on it. The one that came out had a manufacturing date of 1996, so I'm guessing it was the original. BMW wanted $130 for the cylinder minus 10% club discount, and they might have it by the end of the week. HA! I think I'm in love again. The clutch feels very precise now - no play and no delay will do that. >4. What knucklehead designed the rear latch assembly on the >relay/fuse box cover? Since there are wires in the way >(the big ones next to the box) - the cover doesn't go on >quite straight at first.. which broke off the idiotic plastic >bar on the base of the fuse box that the cover fastens to.. >the cover itself (which would be EASY to replace) is just >fine. The expensive part sacrifices itself to protect the >cheap and easily replaceable part. Dunderheads.. I still think THIS is a dunderhead design. Have to think on how to redesign it. Much happier in NJ now.. and will sleep well tonight. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms - from Nancy and Bob Fluharty
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 23:16:49 -0000 From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms The inner (subframe) ball joint is the one that fails? ----- Original Message ----- From: Jack - Elephant Motorsports <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> To: 'Nancy and Bob Fluharty' <FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net>; 'E36M3' <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 10:33 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms > Bob, > > On the E30 M3 at Putnam the ball joint shaft sheared off right at the necked > area at the base of the threads. Stress concentration area of course but I > think this is the common area for this failure. It was an aluminum control > arm that was roughly 2 years old...not sure of the number of track days, etc > on it. It was not my car. > -snip- > Jack Money > '91 M3...alive again > '95 M3 #86 CM > Elephant Motorsports Inc. >
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 23:32:23 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms Correct...at least this is how it failed at Putnam on the E30 M3. That's the only one I've ever seen in real life but I've heard about it constantly. Jack Money '91 M3...alive again '95 M3 #86 CM Elephant Motorsports Inc. -----Original Message----- From: Nancy and Bob Fluharty [mailto:FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 7:17 PM To: Jack - Elephant Motorsports; 'E36M3' Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms The inner (subframe) ball joint is the one that fails? ----- Original Message ----- From: Jack - Elephant Motorsports <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> To: 'Nancy and Bob Fluharty' <FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net>; 'E36M3' <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 10:33 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Front Control Arms > Bob, > > On the E30 M3 at Putnam the ball joint shaft sheared off right at the necked > area at the base of the threads. Stress concentration area of course > but I > think this is the common area for this failure. It was an aluminum control > arm that was roughly 2 years old...not sure of the number of track > days, etc > on it. It was not my car. > -snip- > Jack Money > '91 M3...alive again > '95 M3 #86 CM > Elephant Motorsports Inc. >
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#8. re: E36 oxygen sensor installation - from Andy Radin
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:17:24 -0700 From: "Andy Radin" <fourfa@hotmail.com> Subject: re: E36 oxygen sensor installation "Has anyone installed the precat oxygen sensors in an E36 M3, 3.2? Any tips on where to access them from, or any other tricks? Or if you could point me toward the info, that would be great." Access them from under the car, no need for any special sensor tool, just an ordinary 24mm wrench. Remove the cover over the fuel rail (driver's side of the motor) to find the plugs. There's a lot of squeezing your hands around to unclip the long cable as it snakes around the motor. Here's the trick - remove and replace only one at a time, so as not to lose track of which sensor goes to which plug. andy r. 98 m3/2
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#9. RE: [E36M3] New Data System - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 08:35:30 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] New Data System >This is not at all like a Gtech. It offers wheel speed traces - the >most valuable tool for learning. Also will show track position which is >a relatively new thing - but imagine being able to overlay your >instructors data in the paddock and actually visually seeing that they >turn in earlier, get on the gas earlier, and don't overslow the car so >they enter a turn 10 MPH faster. That is a lot of good info. A friend and I just picked up some tires from a Grand Am cup racer the other day and I was talking to him about the disparity in speed/braking/downshift blips/etc in the one corner where I was watching everyone during their race at Mid-Ohio last year. You could tell there must have been a lack of talent in some of the Porsche race drivers as you could hear them slowing the car down with the engine into t7 (end of back straight) instead of the brakes and their throttle blips were done way too early. On the other hand you could watch/listen the PTG guys in the same corner and it was as if the same person was driving both cars. I would've said the same observing Turner and Auberlen in that same corner during the WC race a couple of years ago. I noticed you guys (Bimmerworld) also run nose to tail these days as well. I've sort of always assumed that this is due to the data systems and team drivers sharing speed secrets with one another. I also assumed the opposite when it comes to the racers that I noticed overslowing their cars, shifting too early, etc, they either didn't have data systems or else lacked a top driver to use as a reference. Good stuff, now I need to find a pile of cash somewhere so I can purchase one for myself. :-) Carlos.
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#10. Putnam & thanks - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 09:07:20 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Putnam & thanks Hey guys, Just wanted to give a quick thank you to the Hoosier chapter for putting on what is in my opinion the best school in the area, especially I'd like to thank Neil Maller (chief instr.), Bob Stommel (safety dude), Rob Norwalk (classroom) and Bob Kobayashi (classroom), thanks for keeping the conversations in the classroom interesting. :-) The dinner was once again outstanding and the prizes were awesome, one of these times hopefully I'll win. Nicely done everyone, it is what I would categorize as the perfect weekend for me. Also big thanks to Jack Money for sharing his E30 M3 with me so I could get some track time (we were in the somewhat rolly polly black E30 M3 w/no plate (temp tag on the window)). Oh and I can't leave out Chris Bernhard (my instr.), he encouraged me to begin left foot braking and I couldn't be happier that I did. I had been practicing on the street to give my left foot some sensitivity but found that it was actually easier to do (for me) on the track (hard to find corners that don't require a downshift on the street). The A group was really well behaved and I believe there was only the one spin when the Noble M12 dumped coolant over its own rear tires (d'oh!), luckily I never touched any of it as it was in a bad place (t10) and I was really working on my exit speed thru there. Chris was helping me look thru the right hand corners so we saw the yellow with plenty of time. Anyway if you live in the area and you haven't been to this event DO IT, it's a great way to start the driving season. The Bluegrass Bimmer guys have a school also at Putnam coming up in June and it coincides with a BMW CCA club race (10th anniversary) so I'm sure it'll be something special. I plan to be there either instructing or crewing as a bunch of friends who are club racers are going and I never miss their races. Cheers, Carlos.