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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: M50 Manifold Issues - The Answer! - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 17:59:19 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: M50 Manifold Issues - The Answer! In a message dated 5/3/2005 5:46:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, neil.maller@gte.net writes: Doubtless more expensive up front than home-brew, but maybe a better deal in the long run. These are very well designed and made parts. Saw the kit installed on another M3 while at the Dealer a coupe weeks back, very, very nice indeed! Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004
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#2. Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Tom Reynolds
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Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 17:04:40 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? FWIW I think that you'd be able to get around $17.4k for it without any problem. Up to you to decide if the "extra" $1.4k is worth it to you or not on a '04 w/17k miles. That should probably go for around $35k? List was around $51.3k, right? For better numbers, go to the IntelliChoice site (http://www.intellichoice.com) as I'm just running them pretty much off the top of my head, here. But the '04 they have, with 17k miles, I think they're asking/expecting too much for it, imho. Best regards, Tom Reynolds Sand Springs, OK At 04:46 PM 05/03/2005 -0500, Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > >Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 17:45:09 EDT >From: Shelhart2@aol.com >Subject: 98 M3 FS what do you think? > > >I have an offer to actually trade the car in towards a 2004 M3 with 17k >miles. They are offering the new M3 at $48,500 and are offering $15k on trade. >I believe the used car manager wants the car for himself. With the taxes on >the trade, I'm getting about $16k for mine. Anyone have any input on whether >I can do better on the open market? Thanks. >FOR SALE >1998 DINAN BMW M3 >(407) 566-9789 >(813) 727-0129 Cell >$18,000 Firm >· Coupe with rare techno violet color with gray leather >· 3.2L in line 6 cylinder >· No paint work or accidents >· Sunroof and all options >· A/C 100% >· Clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearings replaced at around >80k (preventative but not necessary) >· Dinan stainless exhaust, new catalytic converter, Conforti intake, >and Dinan performance chip >· Estimated 290 horsepower (stock 240) >· New Bridgestone RE 750 tires (230’s all around) >· 17x8 BBS RC forged rims >· New front Stop Tech 4 piston calipers (red color), stainless lines, >and cross drilled rotors >· New stock rear rotors and pads >· Front and rear Koni Single adjustable shocks and HR sport springs >(25% stiffer) >· New front control arms and rear bushings >· New glass ZKW headlamps with protective coating (no chipping) >· New windshield (minor glass pitting drove me crazy) >· JTD front strut tower brace and rear tower brace >· X brace installed >· JTD aluminum underpanel >· All new hoses, belts, and tensioners >· All new power steering hoses >· Mechanically 100% >· New Alpine head unit and speakers >· Mobil 1, zymol, and leatherique. Meticulously maintained >· 99k miles. All records and receipts >· 2nd owner for last 5 years (80k miles) Florida car from new >(Reeves in Tampa). Undercarriage excellent > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 05/02/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 05/02/2005
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#3. Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 18:18:30 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? I purchased a rebuilt steering rack from Griffiths, but the shaft seal failed on the first day of use. While Griffiths has assured a credit will be provided, no other credit was offered (for the inconvenience, etc.), so I will buy the next rack from AutoZone for almost $100 less. Food for thought. I pulled the entire column out to review the universal joints, and it was a "no fun" job but just due to the close quarters. I couldn't find any play in either the upper or lower universal, so I didn't replace them. My car has @155k miles on it, but most miles are non pothole highway miles. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#4. Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Glenn Halperin
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 15:23:16 -0700 From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> To: <Shelhart2@aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 3:06 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? > Talk the manager into lowering the price of the 2004 and give you the same > reduction in the 1998. i.e. $38,500 and $5,000. You'll pay less reg and > taxes. > > HTH, > Glenn Halperin > '98 Hellrot M3/4 >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Tom Reynolds
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Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 17:33:31 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? Don't a lot of states figure it on NADA values when new? I think AZ did/does. Tom Reynolds former AZ resident At 05:26 PM 05/03/2005 -0500, Glenn Halperin wrote: > >Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 15:23:16 -0700 >From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Glenn Halperin" <hhhalperin@comcast.net> >To: <Shelhart2@aol.com> >Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 3:06 PM >Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? > > >> Talk the manager into lowering the price of the 2004 and give you the same >> reduction in the 1998. i.e. $38,500 and $5,000. You'll pay less reg and >> taxes. >> >> HTH, >> Glenn Halperin >> '98 Hellrot M3/4 >> > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 05/02/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.11.1 - Release Date: 05/02/2005
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#6. Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 15:33:51 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3 FS what do you think? Hi, I don't know what the options are on the new M3 but Kelly prices it at $49K with nothing selected and 20K miles, in my ZIP (94541). As far as the old car. I think you should be able to do better. I paid $16K for my car a year ago. ('97 Techno Violet with nothing) I would pay $18 if I was looking, esp. since yours has the big brake kit. But, is a private sale worth the hassle? YMMV, but it may not be. Kent Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: >Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 17:45:09 EDT >From: Shelhart2@aol.com >Subject: 98 M3 FS what do you think? > > >I have an offer to actually trade the car in towards a 2004 M3 with 17k >miles. They are offering the new M3 at $48,500 and are offering $15k on trade. >I believe the used car manager wants the car for himself. With the taxes on >the trade, I'm getting about $16k for mine. Anyone have any input on whether >I can do better on the open market? Thanks. >FOR SALE >1998 DINAN BMW M3 >(407) 566-9789 >(813) 727-0129 Cell >$18,000 Firm >· Coupe with rare techno violet color with gray leather >· 3.2L in line 6 cylinder >· No paint work or accidents >· Sunroof and all options >· A/C 100% >· Clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearings replaced at around >80k (preventative but not necessary) >· Dinan stainless exhaust, new catalytic converter, Conforti intake, >and Dinan performance chip >· Estimated 290 horsepower (stock 240) >· New Bridgestone RE 750 tires (230’s all around) >· 17x8 BBS RC forged rims >· New front Stop Tech 4 piston calipers (red color), stainless lines, >and cross drilled rotors >· New stock rear rotors and pads >· Front and rear Koni Single adjustable shocks and HR sport springs >(25% stiffer) >· New front control arms and rear bushings >· New glass ZKW headlamps with protective coating (no chipping) >· New windshield (minor glass pitting drove me crazy) >· JTD front strut tower brace and rear tower brace >· X brace installed >· JTD aluminum underpanel >· All new hoses, belts, and tensioners >· All new power steering hoses >· Mechanically 100% >· New Alpine head unit and speakers >· Mobil 1, zymol, and leatherique. Meticulously maintained >· 99k miles. All records and receipts >· 2nd owner for last 5 years (80k miles) Florida car from new >(Reeves in Tampa). Undercarriage excellent > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
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#7. RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 20:56:10 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help lee asks (and since I was there several times in the past few weeks..): >Gruppe, >I'd like to remove my giggly-left-right-wiggly brake pedal >so I can install some UUC bushings. >Any insight as to the easiest way to remove/install the pedal? >Thanks in advance, >'95 M3 Violet (3.2 installed/running, finally!) There is no "EASY" way - but it's not impossible.. 1. Move seat ALL the way back and down. Find something soft to put on the ground next to the car since you'll be kneeling there for quite a while. Find a drop-light that doesn't get hot. 2. Remove the underdash covering - 3 philips screws and a lot of wiggling. Disconnect the bong-chime, and push the footwell light out of the hole, then feed it back through the hole (you'll know what I mean) - it's handy to have when you're working down there. 3. Remove the knee-bolster-crash pad. 3 10mm bolts hold it on, and since you're pre-OBD-II, you don't have to remove the connector. 4. Stick head up there.. and look. It's crowded. In order to get the pedal out to replace the bushings, you must: 1. Remove the switch assembly bracket. This is held on by the bottom bolt of the master-cylinder (left side) - 10mm socket on 3/8" drive works fine. Disconnect wires (push-clips) and set aside. 2. Look for the clip on the big pin that the eye on the end of the clutch master-cylinder is affixed to the pedal with. Remove the clip. Much cursing is fine at this point - it doesn't come off like you think it might. Jam a screwdriver into it on the open end, and then pull it towards you. 3. At this point the over-center spring is going to fall out of place. It would be handy to check where the two ends go before it falls out of place, but I was able to figure it out. If you want to check this - go it before step 2. The spring will be greasy - so if you have anything but black carpeting, you might want to put a towel over the carpets - the grease will stain your floormats. 4. Now the tough one. There is another one of those GD clips up WAY at the top of the firewall, holding the pedal to a bracket. You have to get that clip off. Take a break about now 'cause all your blood is in your head and you don't want it to explode. Then, using all the good curse words you know, work on that clip. Getting it off is complicated by the sound insulation BMW cleverly surrounded the area with. There is NO clearance, but it can be removed. 4. Now you can wiggle the pedal off to the left. It takes quite a bit of wiggling. 5. Once off - the bushings take about 30 seconds. HINT on making it easier to put it back together.. I cut a square out of the insulation above the pin the pedal pivots on. A razor knife works nicely. I made mine about 3"x3" - it gives you at least 1/2" more clearance there to get things back together. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Install the over-center spring thingie before putting the pin in that goes though the eye for the master-cylinder. It will want to fall out, so it's sort of a challenge getting it in and holding the pedal in enough that it doesn't fall out and getting the pin back so the pedal doesn't come up too far.. but if I can do it.. When done - you'll marvel about how nice the pedal feels. I did use a bit of RedLine Synthetic Moly Grease on the bushings and all the pins and clips. Can't hurt - might help. The pedal is very smooth, doesn't wiggle anymore and it's quiet. HTH, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ==================================================================== _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#8. Code C9: Lambda Control #1 possibilities - from Lee Piccione
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Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 21:24:14 -0400 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Code C9: Lambda Control #1 possibilities Gruppe, Just completed a 3.2 swap into an OBDI/'95 M3. While idling smoothly, the 'check engine' light came on. Plugged in my code reader and got a 'C9', which is Lamda Control #1. We've figured out is got something to do w/ air/fuel mixture, and possibly the O2 sensor, but before the swap eveything was fine. The only thing different (besides the motor) is we're using the 3.2 injectors. Would they cause a problem? The car has a Conforti chip programmed for the OBDI/3.0. Could THAT be the problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated! Thanks, Lee '95 M3 Violet
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Code C9: Lambda Control #1 possibilities - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 22:02:57 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Code C9: Lambda Control #1 possibilities In a message dated 5/3/2005 9:26:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, leepic@smart.net writes: The car has a Conforti chip programmed for the OBDI/3.0. Could THAT be the problem? Lee, I do believe the JC chips are different between the 3.0L and the 3.2L, so this could be the problem. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004
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#10. Re: Seized right Front Caliper, need advice - from Kevin McLeaster
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Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 00:09:27 -0500 From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> Subject: Re: Seized right Front Caliper, need advice Thanks for the advise on my caliper situation. Vaughn Motorworks ordered the part for me and told me they'd do the work for me at the standard rate if I ran into problems and couldn't handle it myself. I got it installed myself with relatively few problems and everything seems to work. Minor issues: The caliper came with the mounting bracket. This supprised me and when I first saw the part, I thought it was too big until I realized that I had the whole works. The mounting bracket didn't seem to fit quite as well as the original, so I just used it. Wish I had made that decision up front, it would have saved me and hour. The caliper DID have the /// M logo on it. One of the supplied caliper slide bolts had a different sized allen-head than the stock ones, one was the same as stock. I used the two original slide bolts after cleaning (not lubricating) them. A pad retaining clip was included. It looked like it was made from a different material than the ones I received with the pad kit I installed last summer from Steve D. I did not use it. I could not seem to find a way to keep brake fluid from dripping from the brake line while I was floundering around with the ill-fitting, supplied mounting bracket and the caliper. I tried a stopper off the top of some Mobil 1 Trans lube, a surgical glove wound around the end and Ty-Wraped in place etc. Mess. /end Minor issues Vaughn did not ask me to front the $ for the core charge, just said to make sure you bring us the old caliper. Very cool of them to score the part for me and then do this too. Kevin McLeaster '95 M3 (moody lately)