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#1. RE: [E36M3] Fuel Pump - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 00:29:22 -0500 From: "Christopher Bauer" <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fuel Pump when mine died at 145k, the car wouldn't start :D Chris 97m3 -----Original Message----- From: Robert Exconde - 99e36m2 [mailto:99e36m3@Exconde.com] Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 05:43:47 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m2" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> Subject: Fuel Pump How long does a fuel pump last? What are the signs of a dying fuel pump? Robert 99e36m3 115Kmiles
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 00:27:05 -0500 From: "Christopher Bauer" <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? I also bought a remaned rack from griffiths. I couldnt have had a better experience from them. Rack was perfect, as was everything else in the transaction. no affil. just satisfied cust. and a data point. Chris 97M3 -----Original Message----- From: Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net [mailto:Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net] Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 18:18:30 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Steering Rack... Maval or ZF? I purchased a rebuilt steering rack from Griffiths, but the shaft seal failed on the first day of use. While Griffiths has assured a credit will be provided, no other credit was offered (for the inconvenience, etc.), so I will buy the next rack from AutoZone for almost $100 less. Food for thought. Regards, Stan Shaw
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Pump - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 23:17:07 -0700 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Pump > From: Robert Exconde - 99e36m2 [mailto:99e36m3@Exconde.com] > > How long does a fuel pump last? > > What are the signs of a dying fuel pump? I haven't had a failure on my M3 (yet), but I did experience this problem with my E36 Dinan 3. First I knew of it was when I was having problems starting the car. There was enough gas in the car, but it wouldn't turn over after the cranking. Fearing the worst, I had the car towed to the local dealership so that they might be able to diagnose the problem. I decided to try the car once before I left it over night at the dealership and, interestingly, it started right up and ran perfectly. It seemed like the tow jiggled something and got the pump to work. A few days later, as I was driving towards the shop getting my Inspection II that was due (and perhaps a new fuel pump) it died on my 1 block away from my house. The same symptoms of cranking and no starting. The car was towed, again, and the pump was changed. Short of it is that there really are no signs of failure until it actually fails. However, I have heard that if the pump is using more than 5.0 amps of power, it can be a sign of a worn fuel pump. The procedure to test it is in the Bentley. I had told to me by various mechanics that it is never good to run a car on low fuel. The fuel pump depends on the fuel sloshing around to cool the pump and if there isn't enough fuel to cool the pump, it can lead to premature failure. I always try to fill up at a 1/4 tank. Hope this helps! Drive Safely, Raza
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#4. gas leak - from sam langley
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Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 08:15:49 -0400 From: sam langley <samrl@triad.rr.com> Subject: gas leak I've recently noticed the smell of gas inside my car and around the left rear wheel well; is this the sign of a fuel pump gone bad? And how hard is it to remove the rear seats to check? sam 95M3
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#5. Seized right Front Caliper, need advice - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 08:35:25 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Seized right Front Caliper, need advice Kevin, If you haven't, you may want to take the piston out of the caliper, and make sure that the outside body of the piston is free of any rust spots.. If there are any, try to lightly sand them off, and then rebuild the caliper.. Good luck. Mo -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 23:57:02 -0500 From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> Subject: Seized right Front Caliper, need advice My right-front caliper seems to have seized up on me this evening. I pulled it off and found that the piston boot inner lip appears to have partially found its way out between the piston and the housing. I cleaned everything up, put it back together and bled the caliper. After pumping the brakes a few times, I have a fair amount of drag on the rotor. Can I limp the car 30 mi to the shop, or should a have it flatbedded to the shop? Car is a 95 with about 96000 mi. Also, the car is in Indy, so my choices are Ress Motorworks or Vaughn Motowerks. Any and all prompt advice is welcome. I have to figure out what to do first thing in the morning. Thanks, Kevin McLeaster 95' M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:45:28 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help When I did this on my E36 I compressed the spring in my vise and put a couple of wire ties around the inner coils to keep it compressed before trying to re-assemble it. The whole thing goes back together much more easily if you don't have to fight the spring. Then after everything is back the way it's supposed to be just cut the wire ties and remove them. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#7. Re: [E36M3] gas leak - from Lee Piccione
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Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 08:52:58 -0400 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] gas leak Sam, I had the exact thing happen to my car. If you lift up the rear seat cushion you'll see two access panels to the gas tank. The pipes coming out of the left one has a gasket around it that need to be replaced. Smell gone... Lee '95 M3 Violet sam langley wrote: > Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 08:15:49 -0400 > From: sam langley <samrl@triad.rr.com> > Subject: gas leak > > I've recently noticed the smell of gas inside my car and around the > left rear wheel well; is this the sign of a fuel pump gone bad? And > how hard is it to remove the rear seats to check? > sam > 95M3 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 09:14:25 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help Jamie - I tried this. I think the later model uses a different design. There is no room to put the wire ties - the inner bits that slide within each other totally fill up the space, and you can't even slip a wire tie between them and the spring coils. It's not hard to do the way I described if you do it in the order I described - it would be easier with three hands.. but it's certainly doable. Don At 08:45 AM 5/4/2005, Jamie Howton wrote: >When I did this on my E36 I compressed the spring in my vise and put a >couple of wire ties around the inner coils to keep it compressed >before trying to re-assemble it. The whole thing goes back together >much more easily if you don't have to fight the spring. Then after >everything is back the way it's supposed to be just cut the wire ties >and remove them. > >-- >Jamie Howton >2000 M5 >1995 M3 >Hampshire, IL _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 06:20:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help Most people have difficulty when they try doing this without disconnecting the pin that holds the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal. If you don't disconnect, then you can't pull the clutch pedal back far enough to get the spring assembly to go in without having to pre-compress it. Ron Stygar first outlined the compress, safety wire method until he found that if you disconnect the master cylinder, everything is much, much easier. Yes, there are two different designes to the innards of the spring assembly, but I believe both can be reinstalled with ease if you disconnect the master cylinder. Three hands are not needed ;) And...well, I don't find taking any of this stuff out or the clips that hold these things in that difficult ;) Chester --- Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 09:14:25 -0400 > From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:Clutch pedal bushing replaement help > > Jamie - > > I tried this. I think the later model uses a different > design. There is no room to put the wire ties - the inner > bits that slide within each other totally fill up the space, > and you can't even slip a wire tie between them and the > spring coils. > > It's not hard to do the way I described if you do it > in the order I described - it would be easier with > three hands.. but it's certainly doable.
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#10. Flywheel and Clutch? - from kevin ogrodnik
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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 06:22:31 -0700 (PDT) From: kevin ogrodnik <kwogrodnik@yahoo.com> Subject: Flywheel and Clutch? Anyone have experience with a TCKline or Bimmerworld lightended flywheel for an E36 M3? They both look similar to me but wondering if anyone knew of any differences between the two. Thanks. Kevin 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com