E36M3 #4278

Friday, May 06, 2005 14:06:28

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Vader seats ... common problem?? (long) - from Peter Fry
#2. Turner end links front sways - from Msebmwman@aol.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] Turner end links front sways - from Mark Dadgar
#4. RE: Front Sway Bar End Links - from Burgess, Kim L
#5. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Pump - from Kent L. Shephard
#6. Re: 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Carl Stern
#7. FS: Forgeline 17x9 w/BFG R1 245/40, 255/40 - from Robert Chay
#8. Another gas leak - from David Bauer
#9. Re: [E36M3] Another gas leak - from mdriver13@aol.com
#10. Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Scott Spangenberg

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Re: [E36M3] Vader seats ... common problem?? (long) - from Peter Fry
Top
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 22:32 -0600 From: Peter Fry <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vader seats ... common problem?? (long) Scott- I recently did the procedure oulined in the link mentioned at: http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2002_08_digest_2485-2564/digest2496.htm#9 Thought I'd give you the opportunty to learn from my experience. - The seat cables will run maybe $10 each, less with a CCA discount. - On taking off the seat-back: I couldn't figure out how to get the headrest off, so worked with it pivoting at the top. The seatback release handles come off as described by prying w/a screwdriver. The cresent-shaped tracks they run in have tabs at the top and bottom that need to be pressed to release. - Be careful when actually removing the seatback - Don't pry if something seems stuck - it's only made of thin fiberboard, and isn't hard to crack, especially the thin part just forward of the release lever (ask me how I know). - When removing the seatback, look for the routing of the sleeve for the broken cable. Mine fell out as soon as the back came off. The routing is important because the tension has to be right (see below) - When the cable broke at the bottom, the top end likely fell out due to lack of tension. On your new cable, there's a small metal cylinder that slips into a "C" shaped notch. You'll have to get the cable routed right to keep enough tension so the cylinder doesn't fall out of the "C" when the lever is lowered. - Route the cable over (outside) the large tube that the seat-back pivots on. Mine needed a zip-tie (I had to disassemble the functional seat to learn this) holding the cable against the tube, with a certain amount of curve in the cable to get the tension right. Hope this insight lets you complete the job in less time and with less profanity than was required for mine. Peter Fry Red 99 M3 Colorado ___ Sent with SnapperMail www.snappermail.com

Reply to: Peter Fry

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. Turner end links front sways - from Msebmwman@aol.com
Top
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 01:03:12 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Turner end links front sways Stan; Turner makes them. I've got one on my car. You can use the stock one on one side and a Turner adjustable on the other side. As far as I know and can tell, you really only need to be able to adjust one side. I don't think there are any geometry issues. Mines on a 27 mm RD Sport sway with 3 holes on each side, settings on my car are full soft both sides. Regards, Marc 95M3 RD Sport front sway UUC rear sway Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 20:22:12 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Front Sway Bar End Links I thought I recalled someone came up with adjustable end links for the front sway bar. Does anyone have that information? Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. Re: [E36M3] Turner end links front sways - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 22:08:56 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Turner end links front sways On May 4, 2005, at 10:06 PM, Msebmwman@aol.com wrote: > Turner makes them. I've got one on my car. You can use the stock > one on one > side and a Turner adjustable on the other side. As far as I know > and can tell, > you really only need to be able to adjust one side. I don't think > there are > any geometry issues. This is true, provided that the sway bar can rotate freely in the bushings. If it binds, there's pre-load on the bar. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar

Reply to: Mark Dadgar

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. RE: Front Sway Bar End Links - from Burgess, Kim L
Top
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 08:14:45 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Front Sway Bar End Links I also believe GC makes a set also. Not a very friendly web site though. http://www.ground-control.com/images/bmw/bmw-endlink.jpg http://www.ground-control.com/images/bmw/e36-ad1.jpg http://www.ground-control.com/?D=f606e201fc9910d89ac64e162db6d324 KLBurgess -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 20:22:12 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Front Sway Bar End Links I thought I recalled someone came up with adjustable end links for the front sway bar. Does anyone have that information? Thanks! Regards, Stan Shaw

Reply to: Burgess, Kim L

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Pump - from Kent L. Shephard
Top
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 11:05:32 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Pump Hi, In my E30 M3, it would run fine until the pump warmed up. It would then die like it was out of fuel. So it would run for 10 minutes or so then die. Kent Christopher Bauer wrote: >Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 00:29:22 -0500 >From: "Christopher Bauer" <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Fuel Pump > >when mine died at 145k, the car wouldn't start :D > >Chris >97m3 > >-----Original Message----- >From: Robert Exconde - 99e36m2 [mailto:99e36m3@Exconde.com] > >Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 05:43:47 -0500 >From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m2" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> >Subject: Fuel Pump > >How long does a fuel pump last? > >What are the signs of a dying fuel pump? > >Robert >99e36m3 115Kmiles > > > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt

Reply to: Kent L. Shephard

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Re: 98 M3 FS what do you think? - from Carl Stern
Top
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 13:45:27 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: 98 M3 FS what do you think? It sounds like a nice car. Personally, I'm surprised that anyone would even pay $15k for a 100,000 mile car. That says a lot about the resale of these cars. Curious, how do you arrive at your 290hp estimate? Looks like you just have the usual intake bolt-on and chip which I see typically claims about 20hp. I sure don't think mine (full Conforti setup) is giving me anymore than that. Carl Stern

Reply to: Carl Stern

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. FS: Forgeline 17x9 w/BFG R1 245/40, 255/40 - from Robert Chay
Top
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 16:06:22 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: FS: Forgeline 17x9 w/BFG R1 245/40, 255/40 I have a set of Forgelines for sale. $1600 http://www.rchay.com/images/Forgelines.JPG They've been sitting in garbage bags for a couple of years in a cool storage area. Straight but with some curb rash. No center caps BFG R1 in 245/40 and 255/40 sizes. They have 1 20min session and 1 autox on the tires. I would like to sell them locally (NY/NJ area). If interested, please respond to this e-mail. Thanks, -Bobby Ps. I also have 3 ACS Type 3 18x8 wheels with Pilot Sports (2x225/40, 1x255/35). Make offer.

Reply to: Robert Chay

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Another gas leak - from David Bauer
Top
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 07:30:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> Subject: Another gas leak I have a gas leak of a different sort. Whenever I fill the tank past 3/4 full my garage smells like gas until it falls below that level. There is no gas smell inside the car. My guess is the connection between the filler neck and the tank but I haven't had a chance to take a look. Anyone else have this problem? TIA, Dave 95 M3 - smelly 99 Z3 2.8 - finally sold

Reply to: David Bauer

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. Re: [E36M3] Another gas leak - from mdriver13@aol.com
Top
Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 14:52:22 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another gas leak Or it could be a crack in the evaporator gas expansion tank. It's made of plastic, and the nipple ends that connect to the hoses will break or crack. Been there, done that. Usually, your check engine light will come on at some point for this one. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA #13 BSP -----Original Message----- From: David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Fri, 6 May 2005 09:35:45 -0500 Subject: [E36M3] Another gas leak Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 07:30:20 -0700 (PDT) From: David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> Subject: Another gas leak I have a gas leak of a different sort. Whenever I fill the tank past 3/4 full my garage smells like gas until it falls below that level. There is no gas smell inside the car. My guess is the connection between the filler neck and the tank but I haven't had a chance to take a look. Anyone else have this problem? TIA, Dave 95 M3 - smelly 99 Z3 2.8 - finally sold ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Scott Spangenberg
Top
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 11:57:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) I have been venting to several of my friends lately about how dumb the M3 shifter design is. My '87 325is has a poor feeling shifter as well, but I don't think those cars are as prone to the "money shift". Shifting is my favorite thing :-) I really used to enjoy banging shifts in my Mustang GT ... and I never thought twice about missing a gear and blowing it up. I am depressed that my '95 M3 is so "dangerous" when it comes to shifting while under heavy load. My lack of confidence while shifting totally takes the fun out of driving for me. I nearly blew it up on Monday just having a spirited run down the local parkway. I went for 4th, didn't get it, re-cocked, and then got 2nd. Luckily I didn't let the clutch out or my love affair with this car would have been short lived! Did I mention I'm depressed?? :-) I want to fix this bad design as well as I can. The best answer would be to relocate the pivot for the console to someplace on the driveline versus on the body. That sounds like more work and more engineering than I want to tackle. I'm not extremely concerned about inducing some more cabin vibration. With that in mind, what's the BEST answer for making this shifter confidence inspiring? I am assuming that one of the aftermarket shifters (UUC, etc.) is a good start. The UUC urethane tranny mounts with reinforcements are also in order, I think. What about the engine mounts? What's available for replacement units? When my Mustang first became a CP car I solid-mounted the engine and tranny. The vibration was surprisingly not that bad :-) -Scott Spangenberg -95 Avus M3, Track and Summer car -98 Neon ACR, Autox and Winter car -88 Mustang, CP Autox car (2006, maybe!) -05 F150, Girlfriend's & parts go-getter Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html

Reply to: Scott Spangenberg

Top